I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.

CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00

Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.
Chris.

If you have space the 2200 & 1000 in series would give you 1600. If not always go for the higher value. I repaired mine n I seem to remember there wasn't much space inside

On 17/11/2014 17:27, CB wrote:
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.

CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00

Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.
Chris.

Take it back for a refund.

On 17/11/2014 17:27, CB wrote:
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.

CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00

Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.
Chris.
According to the Wikipedia article at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electro...or#Capacitance
electrolytic capacitors typically have a tolerance of +/- 20%, so the
exact value may not be critical.

On 17/11/2014 17:48, LumpHammer wrote:
On 17/11/2014 17:27, CB wrote:
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.

CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00

Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.
Chris.
According to the Wikipedia article at
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electro...or#Capacitance
electrolytic capacitors typically have a tolerance of +/- 20%, so the
exact value may not be critical.


I'd use the big one if it fits, the small one if it doesn't. I would not
expect it to make much difference (it is probably smoothing the power
supply rail).

In article , CB writes
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.

CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00

Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?

You should only use a capacitor that has been designed or is suitable
for use in switched mode power supplies. These will have a high ripple
current rating, low Effective Series Resistance (ESR) and Effective
Series Inductance (ESL). You should also choose a 105degC rated device
(rather than 85deg) as it will have longer life. The value itself is not
that critical but using a grossly larger capacitor may affect the
stability of the supply design.

If you're not confident to make your own choice then post the part
numbers of the components you have researched and we can give you some
further advice.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

In article ,
CB writes:
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

That rating can only be the PSU output smoothing capacitor.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

Both will probably work fine, the 2200uF being slightly better,
but if the 1000uF fits better in the available space, go for that.

The other thing to check is the operating temperature. Standard
electrolytics are 85C, high temperature ones are 105C. Running
over temperature will reduce the rated life, but within these
limits, either will work.

Also, in case you didn't know, these capacitors are polarity
sensitive and must be put in the right way around.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
sintv writes
If you have space the 2200 & 1000 in series would give you 1600. If not always go
for the higher value. I repaired mine n I seem to remember there wasn't much space
inside

A series connected capacitor pair can never have an effective value
greater than that of the lowest valued component. The combination you
describe would result in a value of 687.5uF, from (C1xC2)/(C1+C2).
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On 17/11/2014 18:07, fred wrote:
In article , CB writes
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.

CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00

Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?

You should only use a capacitor that has been designed or is suitable
for use in switched mode power supplies. These will have a high ripple
current rating, low Effective Series Resistance (ESR) and Effective
Series Inductance (ESL). You should also choose a 105degC rated device
(rather than 85deg) as it will have longer life. The value itself is not
that critical but using a grossly larger capacitor may affect the
stability of the supply design.

If you're not confident to make your own choice then post the part
numbers of the components you have researched and we can give you some
further advice.

Well the one that has come out is 1500UF 6.3V, "Lelon"? (I asume that
this is the manufacturer) RXY105C H105M. Length 15mm Dia 10 mm.

The potential replacements are Farnell
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pr...sp?sku=CA07331
(Exact Replacement).

Maplin 2200UF
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/2200f-25v-...apacitor-dt72p

or
Maplin 1000UF
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1000f-25v-...apacitor-dt70m

Although noting a comment made in another reply it is very crowded in
there and physical size is as important as electrical properties. I can
see from the Farnell website that theirs will fit, the Maplin site does
not give physical sizes.

On 17/11/2014 18:45, CB wrote:


Although noting a comment made in another reply it is very crowded in
there and physical size is as important as electrical properties. I can
see from the Farnell website that theirs will fit, the Maplin site does
not give physical sizes.

Or from CPC/farnell (slightly better spec)
http://cpc.farnell.com/rubycon/6-3zl...t=rubycon+6.3V

The can size may be larger for higher the operating voltage so the 25V
volt versions from Maplin could be physically larger.

Don't forget CPC have a catalogue full of useless gadgets you can order
for christmas presents to make up your order value
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/bespoke/b...ftsGadgets.jsp


--
mailto: news {at} admac {dot] myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 17/11/14 17:27, CB wrote:
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.

CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00

Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?


Buy it from CPC and buy some batteries to make up the difference - CPC's
alkalines are cheaper than most other places IME.

In article , CB writes
On 17/11/2014 18:07, fred wrote:

You should only use a capacitor that has been designed or is suitable
for use in switched mode power supplies. These will have a high ripple
current rating, low Effective Series Resistance (ESR) and Effective
Series Inductance (ESL). You should also choose a 105degC rated device
(rather than 85deg) as it will have longer life. The value itself is not
that critical but using a grossly larger capacitor may affect the
stability of the supply design.

If you're not confident to make your own choice then post the part
numbers of the components you have researched and we can give you some
further advice.

Well the one that has come out is 1500UF 6.3V, "Lelon"? (I asume that
this is the manufacturer) RXY105C H105M. Length 15mm Dia 10 mm.

The potential replacements are Farnell
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/search/pr...sp?sku=CA07331
(Exact Replacement).

That's absolutely fine, full spec quoted and boxes ticked for ripple,
impedance and frequency, Panasonic is a quality component. Note that the
min order is 5 off and that the price is + VAT. One consolation on the
5quid + vat min order on CPC is that there's a good chance you'll find a
wanted filler to make up the order value. Patch or audio cables being a
good example.

If you can physically fit a 10V or higher rated one from the same range
then do so as it will improve reliability.

Maplin 2200UF
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/2200f-25v-...apacitor-dt72p

or
Maplin 1000UF
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/1000f-25v-...apacitor-dt70m

In the absence of a quoted spec I'd suggest that these will only be
suitable for audio applications and not switch mode. Also, even an audio
cap with a 25V rating will likely be oversize.

Although noting a comment made in another reply it is very crowded in
there and physical size is as important as electrical properties. I can
see from the Farnell website that theirs will fit, the Maplin site does
not give physical sizes.

As mentioned elsewhere, watch the polarity, the wide band on the cap is
negative and may be matched by a filled half circle on the board silk
screen or they may mark the positive pole with a simple plus. Push the
cap right down to keep the leads short.

Feel free to punt any others that you want to check.

Good luck.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

In article , alan_m
writes
On 17/11/2014 18:45, CB wrote:


Although noting a comment made in another reply it is very crowded in
there and physical size is as important as electrical properties. I can
see from the Farnell website that theirs will fit, the Maplin site does
not give physical sizes.

Or from CPC/farnell (slightly better spec)
http://cpc.farnell.com/rubycon/6-3zl...f-6-3v/dp/CA07
559?Ntt=rubycon+6.3V

Well spotted and MOQ is only one for that one so prob enough cash left
from the fiver to buy a one of their worthless Christmas trinkets ;-)

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Monday, November 17, 2014 5:27:37 PM UTC, CB wrote:
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.
This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk
points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).
Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.
I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.
RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.
CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00
Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.
Chris.

2200uF is better than 1000uF, the latter might prove barely adequate.

FWIW 105C & greater voltage rated caps last longer, but more volts = more size, which you dont have.

You can get such caps out of a fair percentage of scrap electronic items, why pay & wait.


NT

On 17/11/2014 17:27, CB wrote:
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

I suspect you actually want a high ripple type for the switched mode
supply (especially based on your description of how it failed). Maplin
will stock pretty ropey ones that are not rated for higher currents.

I confess I am a bit surprised that they can cook their capacitors as it
isn't a particularly high power device ISTR 5W. There is a risk that
the capacitor died because the thing is defective and went over voltage
and so the next capacitor will inevitably suffer a similar fate.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.

Worth seeing if Rapidonline will do one or five for a better price.

CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00

Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?

You need to be able to physically fit the component in and it needs to
be the right sort to survive the environment. Not all electrolytic
capacitors are happy in switched mode supplies (and blow their tops).

Tolerances of capacitors are such +/-20% that anything in the
1000-2200uF range ought to work OK but it also needs to be able to cope
with the ripple current in the PSU design as well.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.
Chris.


--
Regards,
Martin Brown

On 17/11/2014 19:11, alan_m wrote:
On 17/11/2014 18:45, CB wrote:


Although noting a comment made in another reply it is very crowded in
there and physical size is as important as electrical properties. I can
see from the Farnell website that theirs will fit, the Maplin site does
not give physical sizes.

Or from CPC/farnell (slightly better spec)
http://cpc.farnell.com/rubycon/6-3zl...t=rubycon+6.3V

Yup, my recapping cap of choice...



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message ,
sintv writes
If you have space the 2200 & 1000 in series would give you 1600. If
not always go for the higher value. I repaired mine n I seem to
remember there wasn't much space inside

Beware of connecting electrolytics in series unless you also add a
(high-value) resistor in parallel with each to equalise the DC voltage
across them - especially if the rated working voltage of either is less
than the total voltage across them both. This is because electrolytics
have a slight DC leakage current (hopefully only a few microamps), and
you could end up with the DC voltage across one capacitor exceeding its
rating.

For example, if you have a 20V DC voltage across a 1000uF, 25V
capacitor, and the capacitor fails, you could replace it with two 2000uF
in series. However, make sure that neither voltage rating is lower than
25V (say 15V). If it is, and their leakage currents are unequal, without
the resistors you could have (say) 16V across one capacitor and 5V
across the other. Adding across each a high value resistor - but low
enough to pass enough current to swamp the leakage current - will ensure
that the voltage across each capacitor is close to a safe 12.5V.
--
Ian

On 17/11/2014 19:22, fred wrote:
In article , alan_m
writes
On 17/11/2014 18:45, CB wrote:


Although noting a comment made in another reply it is very crowded in
there and physical size is as important as electrical properties. I can
see from the Farnell website that theirs will fit, the Maplin site does
not give physical sizes.

Or from CPC/farnell (slightly better spec)
http://cpc.farnell.com/rubycon/6-3zl...f-6-3v/dp/CA07

559?Ntt=rubycon+6.3V

Well spotted and MOQ is only one for that one so prob enough cash left
from the fiver to buy a one of their worthless Christmas trinkets ;-)

Thanks to all who responded - Its looks like CPC/Farnell with some
fillers to make up the order.

Thanks again.

Chris

In article , CB writes
On 17/11/2014 19:22, fred wrote:
In article , alan_m

Or from CPC/farnell (slightly better spec)
http://cpc.farnell.com/rubycon/6-3zl...acitor-1500uf-
6-3v/dp/CA07

559?Ntt=rubycon+6.3V

Well spotted and MOQ is only one for that one so prob enough cash left
from the fiver to buy a one of their worthless Christmas trinkets ;-)

Thanks to all who responded - Its looks like CPC/Farnell with some
fillers to make up the order.

You're welcome.

I only noticed after responding that the rubycon cap is longer at 20mm
c/f the 16mm on the panny, may be ok or may not.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Monday, November 17, 2014 8:39:06 PM UTC, Martin Brown wrote:

You need to be able to physically fit the component in and it needs to
be the right sort to survive the environment. Not all electrolytic
capacitors are happy in switched mode supplies (and blow their tops).

Tolerances of capacitors are such +/-20% that anything in the
1000-2200uF range ought to work OK but it also needs to be able to cope
with the ripple current in the PSU design as well.

No, 1000uF cap can not be assumed to have enough capacitance. There's a reason they went up to 1500 in such a tight space.


NT

CB wrote:

I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

you get get 2x Panasonic CAPACITOR, 1500UF, 6.3V inc delivery for £2.59 on
ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/111020269027

On 17/11/2014 23:16, wrote:
On Monday, November 17, 2014 8:39:06 PM UTC, Martin Brown wrote:

You need to be able to physically fit the component in and it needs to
be the right sort to survive the environment. Not all electrolytic
capacitors are happy in switched mode supplies (and blow their tops).

Tolerances of capacitors are such +/-20% that anything in the
1000-2200uF range ought to work OK but it also needs to be able to cope
with the ripple current in the PSU design as well.

No, 1000uF cap can not be assumed to have enough capacitance. There's a reason they went up to 1500 in such a tight space.

Probably that the 1500uF part was 0.01p cheaper!

Nominal 1500uf could easily be anywhere from 1200uF to 1800uF with a few
outliers outside that range. I doubt if any switched mode PSU design is
so sensitive to choice of final storage capacitor that it would suffer
more than a slight 30% increase in ripple noise from this.

Using a generic capacitor that is not specified for switched mode use
with potentially high ripple current will lead to trouble.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

I'd go for the larger one, assuming it fits. If the psu cannot stand the
switch on surge its not been designed very well!
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"CB" wrote in message ...
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.

This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk

points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).

Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.

I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.

RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.

CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00

Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?

Any help appreciated.

Thanks.
Chris.

Yes agreed, this is capacity we are talking about after all.
One word of warning before you commit a new capacitor. look at the actual
voltage across it and make sure ists not high or A/C, which might point you
to the original cluprit, in the former case a voltage regulator, in the
second the rectifier.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , sintv
writes
If you have space the 2200 & 1000 in series would give you 1600. If not
always go
for the higher value. I repaired mine n I seem to remember there wasn't
much space
inside

A series connected capacitor pair can never have an effective value
greater than that of the lowest valued component. The combination you
describe would result in a value of 687.5uF, from (C1xC2)/(C1+C2).
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Tuesday, November 18, 2014 8:42:56 AM UTC, Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/11/2014 23:16, wrote:
On Monday, November 17, 2014 8:39:06 PM UTC, Martin Brown wrote:

You need to be able to physically fit the component in and it needs to
be the right sort to survive the environment. Not all electrolytic
capacitors are happy in switched mode supplies (and blow their tops).

Tolerances of capacitors are such +/-20% that anything in the
1000-2200uF range ought to work OK but it also needs to be able to cope
with the ripple current in the PSU design as well.

No, 1000uF cap can not be assumed to have enough capacitance. There's a reason they went up to 1500 in such a tight space.

Probably that the 1500uF part was 0.01p cheaper!

Either may be the case. Generally speaking though, more capacity at a given voltage costs more. So 1000uF cap can not be assumed to have enough capacitance.

Nominal 1500uf could easily be anywhere from 1200uF to 1800uF with a few
outliers outside that range.

Tolerance is a bit of a red herring here, 1000 and 1500 both have a tolerance range, with the minimum value 2/3 as much for the 1000.

I doubt if any switched mode PSU design is
so sensitive to choice of final storage capacitor that it would suffer
more than a slight 30% increase in ripple noise from this.

which might or might not be ok for the application

Using a generic capacitor that is not specified for switched mode use
with potentially high ripple current will lead to trouble.

OP, this is a diy group. You're asking about electronics.


NT

OP, this is a diy group. You're asking about electronics.


NT



Yes but I am proposing a DIY repair :-).

(Ok so it was a little OT - but I have seen worse on here - and I did
get some very helpful advice)

On 18/11/2014 09:44, wrote:
On Tuesday, November 18, 2014 8:42:56 AM UTC, Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/11/2014 23:16, wrote:
On Monday, November 17, 2014 8:39:06 PM UTC, Martin Brown wrote:



OP, this is a diy group. You're asking about electronics.


NT

Given some of the other subjects on here, e.g. Rhine River Cruises,
Shale Gas, Night Attack on ISIS, I can't see any problems with asking an
electronics question - it is electric after all, albeit possibly a
little more complicated than house wiring! ...and he has had some
excellent answers and, even more important, explanations.

Peter

In article ,
Peter Andrews wrote:
On 18/11/2014 09:44, wrote:
On Tuesday, November 18, 2014 8:42:56 AM UTC, Martin Brown wrote:
On 17/11/2014 23:16, wrote:
On Monday, November 17, 2014 8:39:06 PM UTC, Martin Brown wrote:



OP, this is a diy group. You're asking about electronics.


NT

Given some of the other subjects on here, e.g. Rhine River Cruises,
Shale Gas, Night Attack on ISIS, I can't see any problems with asking an
electronics question - it is electric after all, albeit possibly a
little more complicated than house wiring! ...and he has had some
excellent answers and, even more important, explanations.

and - wasn't Maplins set up as a DIY electronics supplier - not that that
they are as much nowadays.

I have a solderting iron and have had since the 1950s.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

In article ,
charles writes:
and - wasn't Maplins set up as a DIY electronics supplier - not that that
they are as much nowadays.

Yes, in particular they did kits of parts for the projects in
Practical Electronics, Everyday Electronics, and Electronics Today
International magazines (but never Elektor, AFAIK).

Then they had a couple of goes at launching their own magazines
with more projects, each of which ran for a few years; Maplin
Magazine, and Electronics and Music Maker.

At some stage (latter 1980's?), it became unfashionable for
school children to teach themselves to build electronic projects,
and most of these magazines vanished. Elektor is still going.

I have a solderting iron and have had since the 1950s.

I used my dad's 1950's 25W Solon until I was at university and
first used a temperature controlled TCP Weller, and so bought myself
one out of my student grant. Still works fine, and one of the best
purchases I ever made. However, it was good to start off with a
crappy corroded bit soldering iron, because it means I can now do
very good soldered joins with any quality of iron, or even a
screwdriver heated on the gas stove, although it's much nicer to
use a good iron of course.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 09:37:20 -0800 (PST), sintv
wrote:

If you have space the 2200 & 1000 in series would give you 1600. If not always go for the higher value. I repaired mine n I seem to remember there wasn't much space inside

Wrong! That gives 680.

The values aren't critical. In most cases, you could substitute a
1500 with a 1200 (or even a 1000 - low C with low ESR is far better
than the original C with excessive effective series resistance).

A more conservative choice is to use a larger value, say a 2200 for a
1500. The values chosen by the designer are those deemed to be a bare
minimum, taking component tolerances and the limitations of an E6 or
E12 series component value choice into account.

The design lowest, worst case value might be 820 and the designer
will therefore choose a 1000 to take account of the traditional
+80/-20% capacitance value tolerance typically used by the
manufacturers of electrolytic capacitors. He might even choose a 1200
or 1500 value to give his design a little more of a performance margin
over and above the bare minimum spec.

The only other aspect is the voltage rating. You can choose one equal
to or greater than the original value (6v3 in this case, so a 10v or
15v rated cap will serve, space allowing).

The downside with exceeding the original voltage spec is typically a
physically larger capacitor (fatter or taller) which may or may not
fit the allocated space on the PCB.

Sometimes you can choose a 6v3 cap over a 10v one where it's quite
obvious that the 10v used was just simply on account it was what was
available from stock for the job, typically a smoothing cap on a 5 or
lower voltage supply rail where a 6v3 or 4v0 would have been the
optimum choice.

The manufacturer can reduce inventory costs by ordering just one lot
of 10v caps in 100,000 off quantity than say 15,000 4v plus 30,000 6v3
and 60,000 10v caps per production batch of finished goods so it's not
unusual to see caps fitted with massively overspecced voltage ratings,
particularly on the 5 and 3v3 rails of an ATX PSU or similar kit with
a wide range of voltage rails. If you know what voltage the cap is
actually being subjected to, you can safely widen your choice of
replacement capacitor options.
--
J B Good

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
charles writes:
and - wasn't Maplins set up as a DIY electronics supplier - not that
that they are as much nowadays.

Yes, in particular they did kits of parts for the projects in
Practical Electronics, Everyday Electronics, and Electronics Today
International magazines (but never Elektor, AFAIK).

Then they had a couple of goes at launching their own magazines
with more projects, each of which ran for a few years; Maplin
Magazine, and Electronics and Music Maker.

At some stage (latter 1980's?), it became unfashionable for
school children to teach themselves to build electronic projects,
and most of these magazines vanished. Elektor is still going.

I have a solderting iron and have had since the 1950s.

I used my dad's 1950's 25W Solon

that's when I bought mine.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 11:36:57 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Monday, November 17, 2014 5:27:37 PM UTC, CB wrote:
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.
This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk
points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).
Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.
I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.
RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.
CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00
Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.
Chris.

2200uF is better than 1000uF, the latter might prove barely adequate.

FWIW 105C & greater voltage rated caps last longer, but more volts = more size, which you dont have.

You can get such caps out of a fair percentage of scrap electronic items, why pay & wait.


If, like me, you've accumulated a collection of scrapped circuit
boards (MoBos in my case), that's an excellent way to build up a good
stock of replacement caps (Intel MoBos seem to provide the best
quality 'recycled' caps but other makes can be good too - the presence
of a few rogue caps doesn't have to mean the other makes of 'good
caps' on the board can't have a useful 'second lease of life).

One of these days, when the XYL is going to be out of the way for a
good few hours, I'm going to turn the kitchen into a MoBo recycling
plant, yet again! It's just a case of laying newspaper on the kitchen
floor onto which I can flick the components after heating each board
over the largest burner on the gas hob to re-flow the solder.

It also helps to be armed with a few suitable pairs of pliars, a
screwdriver or two and a pair of heavy duty leather workman's gloves
to deal with the more 'interesting' components.

The XYL needs to be absent for a few hours just so you have enough
time to leave the windows wide open to dissipate the worst of the
acrid fumes to take the edge off the lingering smell of your recycling
operations (assuming you're expecting your tea to be laid out on the
table come teatime).
--
J B Good

On Tuesday, 18 November 2014 14:38:32 UTC, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
charles writes:
and - wasn't Maplins set up as a DIY electronics supplier - not that that
they are as much nowadays.

Yes, in particular they did kits of parts for the projects in
Practical Electronics, Everyday Electronics, and Electronics Today
International magazines (but never Elektor, AFAIK).

Then they had a couple of goes at launching their own magazines
with more projects, each of which ran for a few years; Maplin
Magazine, and Electronics and Music Maker.

I have aone here perhaps more lurking.

This one dated Dec. 1983 to jan. 1984 price 70p
Projects include
Stop Burglars, full size keyboard for ZX specrum....
plus others.

Just found aN everyday electronics oct 82 with 2 free transistors
still in the bag stuck to tHE front cover.
BCY65EP, 2N3905.


At some stage (latter 1980's?), it became unfashionable for
school children to teach themselves to build electronic projects,
and most of these magazines vanished. Elektor is still going.

Yes computers started taking over and a lot of builders were getting sick of projects not working, sort of killed it off for me.
But as you get further into your teens other things demand attention.

On Tuesday, November 18, 2014 3:33:42 PM UTC, Johny B Good wrote:
On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 11:36:57 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Monday, November 17, 2014 5:27:37 PM UTC, CB wrote:
I have a dead TP Link Homeplug adapter.
This video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uaQmP9rQ7hk
points to a suspect capacitor and on inspection I find that this
capacitor on my unit has failed (top of the can has burst open).
Now I need a 1500UF 6.3V Capacitor.
I drive past Maplin twice a day and they can supply either a 1000UF or
2200UF for less than a quid.
RS can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid plus
GBP4.95 for postage and packing.
CPC Farnell can supply exactly the right component for less than a quid
but the minimum order is GBP5.00
Does anyone know how critical these things usually are, could I get away
with either 1000UF or 2200UF from Maplin (and if so which would be best)
or do I really need to load up my basket with GBP4.50 worth of junk from
Farnell in order to get exactly the right component?
Any help appreciated.
Thanks.
Chris.

2200uF is better than 1000uF, the latter might prove barely adequate.

FWIW 105C & greater voltage rated caps last longer, but more volts = more size, which you dont have.

You can get such caps out of a fair percentage of scrap electronic items, why pay & wait.


If, like me, you've accumulated a collection of scrapped circuit
boards (MoBos in my case), that's an excellent way to build up a good
stock of replacement caps (Intel MoBos seem to provide the best
quality 'recycled' caps but other makes can be good too - the presence
of a few rogue caps doesn't have to mean the other makes of 'good
caps' on the board can't have a useful 'second lease of life).

One of these days, when the XYL is going to be out of the way for a
good few hours, I'm going to turn the kitchen into a MoBo recycling
plant, yet again! It's just a case of laying newspaper on the kitchen
floor onto which I can flick the components after heating each board
over the largest burner on the gas hob to re-flow the solder.

It also helps to be armed with a few suitable pairs of pliars, a
screwdriver or two and a pair of heavy duty leather workman's gloves
to deal with the more 'interesting' components.

The XYL needs to be absent for a few hours just so you have enough
time to leave the windows wide open to dissipate the worst of the
acrid fumes to take the edge off the lingering smell of your recycling
operations (assuming you're expecting your tea to be laid out on the
table come teatime).

Long as they're lead-free, or you;ll get tiny lead droplets everywhere. Hence I wouldnt use the kitchen.


NT

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 15:16:04 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Monday, November 17, 2014 8:39:06 PM UTC, Martin Brown wrote:

You need to be able to physically fit the component in and it needs to
be the right sort to survive the environment. Not all electrolytic
capacitors are happy in switched mode supplies (and blow their tops).

Tolerances of capacitors are such +/-20% that anything in the
1000-2200uF range ought to work OK but it also needs to be able to cope
with the ripple current in the PSU design as well.

No, 1000uF cap can not be assumed to have enough capacitance. There's a reason they went up to 1500 in such a tight space.


Although that's a valid concern, quite often it's on account that was
the nearest value of capacitor that exceeded the minimum value
requirement for the circuit that the manufacturer kept in stock which
the designer would have been mindful of when laying out the PCB.

Economies of scale involve the savings on bulk ordering. Often, it
would be significantly cheaper to order 100000 1500 microfarad 6v3
caps than to order 50000 of 1000 and 50000 of 1500 microfarad 6v3
caps.

For electrolytic capacitors, the most common increment of values
within each decade is the E6 range (1.0 - 1.5 - 2.2 - 3.3 - 4.7 - 6.8
- 10.0 etc) and the commonly used tolerance is -20/+80%.

Electrolytics are never used in circuits where even a +/-10%
tolerance matters and only a minimum value is of concern to the
designer who will, in the light of this knowledge, specify a value
that exceeds the theoretical minimum by at least 50% if not more like
100 to 150% of the 'design value'.

All in all, it is exceedingly improbable that using a 1000 microfarad
cap in place of a 1500 one is going to cause any problem.
--
J B Good

In article , CB writes


OP, this is a diy group. You're asking about electronics.


NT



Yes but I am proposing a DIY repair :-).

Couldn't agree more, I view DIY electronic repair as very much on-topic
for this group.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 14:51:07 +0000, Johny B Good wrote:

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 09:37:20 -0800 (PST), sintv
wrote:

If you have space the 2200 & 1000 in series would give you 1600. If not
always go for the higher value. I repaired mine n I seem to remember
there wasn't much space inside

Wrong! That gives 680.

Wrong! 687.5 actually. ;-

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 18:59:58 +0000, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 14:51:07 +0000, Johny B Good wrote:

On Mon, 17 Nov 2014 09:37:20 -0800 (PST), sintv
wrote:

If you have space the 2200 & 1000 in series would give you 1600. If
not always go for the higher value. I repaired mine n I seem to
remember there wasn't much space inside

Wrong! That gives 680.

Wrong! 687.5 actually. ;-

That calculation is OK within a 20% tolerance!



--
My posts are my copyright and if @diy_forums or Home Owners' Hub
wish to copy them they can pay me £30a message.
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 18:08:42 +0000, fred wrote:

In article , CB writes


OP, this is a diy group. You're asking about electronics.


NT



Yes but I am proposing a DIY repair :-).

Couldn't agree more, I view DIY electronic repair as very much on-topic
for this group.

I thought it was a strange comment to make, even for a Google Grouper.

--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%

On Tue, 18 Nov 2014 08:46:12 -0000, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

I'd go for the larger one, assuming it fits. If the psu cannot stand the
switch on surge its not been designed very well!
Brian

39 posts in this thread about a PLA, and not one suggesting the OP
should run a cable. I think we are slipping ;-)


--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%