Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece developing a downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes have adjustment to the blade depth, so as long as the leading edge of the base plate is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem. However, on my Bosch electric planer, cutting depth adjustment alters the position of the front section of the base plate, only. This means that with the front section of the base plate flat to the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the relative distance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than when the rear base plate section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the workpiece, at the same height, then start the cut within the scrap. Am I making a meal of this and should hand-eye coordination be sufficient to avoid the problem?

Cheers. Terry.

wrote in message
...
Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece developing a
downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes have adjustment to the
blade depth, so as long as the leading edge of the base plate is flat to the
workpiece, there is no problem. However, on my Bosch electric planer,
cutting depth adjustment alters the position of the front section of the
base plate, only. This means that with the front section of the base plate
flat to the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the
relative distance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than when the
rear base plate section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the workpiece, at the
same height, then start the cut within the scrap. Am I making a meal of this
and should hand-eye coordination be sufficient to avoid the problem?

Cheers. Terry.


With all planes, it is the users technique.
As the plane nears the end of the stroke, slow down and transferr weight
from the front to the back of the plane.
ie don't press down on the front knob.
This stops it dropping as the front adjustable foot runs off the end of the
wood.

On Tuesday, November 11, 2014 4:40:54 PM UTC, wrote:
Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece developing a downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes have adjustment to the blade depth, so as long as the leading edge of the base plate is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem. However, on my Bosch electric planer, cutting depth adjustment alters the position of the front section of the base plate, only. This means that with the front section of the base plate flat to the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the relative distance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than when the rear base plate section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the workpiece, at the same height, then start the cut within the scrap. Am I making a meal of this and should hand-eye coordination be sufficient to avoid the problem?

Cheers. Terry.

Downward force should be behind the cutter at all times except when starting the cut, when it needs to be on the front plate. During the latter it is easier to misalign it. Do that and all should be well.


NT

On 11/11/2014 17:11, wrote:
On Tuesday, November 11, 2014 4:40:54 PM UTC,
wrote:
Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece
developing a downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes
have adjustment to the blade depth, so as long as the leading edge
of the base plate is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem.
However, on my Bosch electric planer, cutting depth adjustment
alters the position of the front section of the base plate, only.
This means that with the front section of the base plate flat to
the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the
relative distance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than
when the rear base plate section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the
workpiece, at the same height, then start the cut within the scrap.
Am I making a meal of this and should hand-eye coordination be
sufficient to avoid the problem?

Cheers. Terry.

Downward force should be behind the cutter at all times except when
starting the cut, when it needs to be on the front plate. During the
latter it is easier to misalign it. Do that and all should be well.


NT


All has never been well for me. I hate bloody planers

On 11/11/2014 20:22, stuart noble wrote:
On 11/11/2014 17:11, wrote:
On Tuesday, November 11, 2014 4:40:54 PM UTC,
wrote:
Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece
developing a downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes
have adjustment to the blade depth, so as long as the leading edge
of the base plate is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem.
However, on my Bosch electric planer, cutting depth adjustment
alters the position of the front section of the base plate, only.
This means that with the front section of the base plate flat to
the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the
relative distance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than
when the rear base plate section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the
workpiece, at the same height, then start the cut within the scrap.
Am I making a meal of this and should hand-eye coordination be
sufficient to avoid the problem?

Cheers. Terry.

Downward force should be behind the cutter at all times except when
starting the cut, when it needs to be on the front plate. During the
latter it is easier to misalign it. Do that and all should be well.


NT


All has never been well for me. I hate bloody planers

As with previous posters..ease off the pressure at the end of the run.
The only difference between a manual plane and electric is it runs
faster and exaggerates it so more control is required for the electric
plane. It took me a bit to get used to it, it wasnt so bad with a
manual as it was only one stroke at a time. Once you know the reason its
quite easy to control.

On 11/11/2014 21:18, ss wrote:
On 11/11/2014 20:22, stuart noble wrote:
On 11/11/2014 17:11, wrote:
On Tuesday, November 11, 2014 4:40:54 PM UTC,
wrote:
Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece
developing a downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes
have adjustment to the blade depth, so as long as the leading edge
of the base plate is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem.
However, on my Bosch electric planer, cutting depth adjustment
alters the position of the front section of the base plate, only.
This means that with the front section of the base plate flat to
the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the
relative distance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than
when the rear base plate section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the
workpiece, at the same height, then start the cut within the scrap.
Am I making a meal of this and should hand-eye coordination be
sufficient to avoid the problem?

Cheers. Terry.

Downward force should be behind the cutter at all times except when
starting the cut, when it needs to be on the front plate. During the
latter it is easier to misalign it. Do that and all should be well.


NT


All has never been well for me. I hate bloody planers

As with previous posters..ease off the pressure at the end of the run.
The only difference between a manual plane and electric is it runs
faster and exaggerates it so more control is required for the electric
plane. It took me a bit to get used to it, it wasnt so bad with a
manual as it was only one stroke at a time. Once you know the reason its
quite easy to control.


Scrap wood at the ends is not a bad idea either.

On 11/11/2014 16:40, wrote:
Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece developing
a downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes have
adjustment to the blade depth, so as long as the leading edge of the
base plate is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem. However, on
my Bosch electric planer, cutting depth adjustment alters the
position of the front section of the base plate, only. This means
that with the front section of the base plate flat to the workpiece,
as in when one is about to commence a cut, the relative distance
between cutting drum and workpiece is less than when the rear base
plate section is dragged on board.

You need to remember to transfer the weight from the front plate to the
rear as the cut is made. You start the cut with the front plate pushed
flush to the wood. The cutter will cut below the level, and the back
plate shout match that perfectly. Before you get to the other end you
need the weight on the back to make sure you are indexing from the
recently planed surface and not the unplaned surface that is about to
vanish.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

wrote:
Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece developing a downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes have adjustment to the blade depth, so as long as the leading edge of the base plate is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem. However, on my Bosch electric planer, cutting depth adjustment alters the position of the front section of the base plate, only. This means that with the front section of the base plate flat to the workpiece, as in when one is about to commence a cut, the relative distance between cutting drum and workpiece is less than when the rear base plate section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the workpiece, at the same height, then start the cut within the scrap. Am I making a meal of this and should hand-eye coordination be sufficient to avoid the problem?

Cheers. Terry.

It is possible to adjust the cutters when installing them so that they
cut the depth required all the time with the front level with the back
like a normal plane but most people set their cutters fine and adjust
depth using the front setting as that is the most practicable (just have
to get used to the planes characteristics.

On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 3:34:22 AM UTC, F Murtz wrote:
snip

It is possible to adjust the cutters when installing them so that they
cut the depth required all the time with the front level with the back
like a normal plane but most people set their cutters fine and adjust
depth using the front setting as that is the most practicable (just have
to get used to the planes characteristics.

No. I can think of no way easy adjustments that could be made to the cut depth following this procedure. The adjustable front foot is used to simulate adjusting the depth of cut on a hand plane made by amending the projection of the blade out of the sole.

As others have suggested ease up on the pressure at the front when finishing the stroke. Lots of practice will make this automatic.

Of course, depending on the overall finishrequired, he could always try attacking from either end alternately.

fred wrote:
On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 3:34:22 AM UTC, F Murtz wrote:
snip

It is possible to adjust the cutters when installing them so that they
cut the depth required all the time with the front level with the back
like a normal plane but most people set their cutters fine and adjust
depth using the front setting as that is the most practicable (just have
to get used to the planes characteristics.


No. I can think of no way easy adjustments that could be made to the cut depth following this procedure.

No it is not easy but can be done by changing the depth of the cutters
in the drum but no one ever does it because it would an extreme
nuisance. but it would be the only way to make it like an ordinary plane

The adjustable front foot is used to simulate adjusting the depth of
cut on a hand plane made by amending the projection of the blade out of
the sole.

As others have suggested ease up on the pressure at the front when finishing the stroke. Lots of practice will make this automatic.

Of course, depending on the overall finishrequired, he could always try attacking from either end alternately.

On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 11:56:56 AM UTC, F Murtz wrote:
fred wrote:
On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 3:34:22 AM UTC, F Murtz wrote:
snip

It is possible to adjust the cutters when installing them so that they
cut the depth required all the time with the front level with the back
like a normal plane but most people set their cutters fine and adjust
depth using the front setting as that is the most practicable (just have
to get used to the planes characteristics.


No. I can think of no way easy adjustments that could be made to the cut depth following this procedure.

No it is not easy but can be done by changing the depth of the cutters
in the drum but no one ever does it because it would an extreme
nuisance. but it would be the only way to make it like an ordinary plane

The adjustable front foot is used to simulate adjusting the depth of
cut on a hand plane made by amending the projection of the blade out of
the sole.

As others have suggested ease up on the pressure at the front when finishing the stroke. Lots of practice will make this automatic.

Of course, depending on the overall finishrequired, he could always try attacking from either end alternately.


Yes but to go through that procedure, and setting machine plane blades is a real p.i.t.a., every time you wished to alter the cut depth ( you will want to take a final light pass, no ?) would be extremely tedious and I'm not convinced it would solve the o.p.'s problem. Incorrect use of a hand plane will give the same problem.
I think practice practice practice is the best answer.

In message om, F
Murtz writes
wrote:
Hello All.

Is there an accepted way to avoid each end of a workpiece developing
a downward taper, when electric planing? Manual planes have adjustment
to the blade depth, so as long as the leading edge of the base plate
is flat to the workpiece, there is no problem. However, on my Bosch
electric planer, cutting depth adjustment alters the position of the
front section of the base plate, only. This means that with the front
section of the base plate flat to the workpiece, as in when one is
about to commence a cut, the relative distance between cutting drum
and workpiece is less than when the rear base plate section is dragged on board.

I suppose that one could use scrap wood butted against the workpiece,
at the same height, then start the cut within the scrap. Am I making a
meal of this and should hand-eye coordination be sufficient to avoid
the problem?

Cheers. Terry.

It is possible to adjust the cutters when installing them so that they
cut the depth required all the time with the front level with the back
like a normal plane but most people set their cutters fine and adjust
depth using the front setting as that is the most practicable (just
have to get used to the planes characteristics.

Yes.

My ancient Wolf plane comes with a jig to set the cutters level with the
base after sharpening.

--
Tim Lamb

In article , Tim Lamb
writes
In message om, F
Murtz writes

It is possible to adjust the cutters when installing them so that they
cut the depth required all the time with the front level with the back
like a normal plane but most people set their cutters fine and adjust
depth using the front setting as that is the most practicable (just
have to get used to the planes characteristics.

Yes.

My ancient Wolf plane comes with a jig to set the cutters level with the
base after sharpening.

Wish I had one for my equally ancient B&D, the blade adjustment is very
tricky and you need to be careful not to overloosen the drum screws when
changing the blades or it all needs re-set again.

For the o/p, on mine, there are allen screws holding the blade clamps (3
for each). Loosening these a tad lets you change the blade by siding out
but loosening them further allows the blade clamp to float about such
that it can be adjusted. As I said, this is a tricky procedure and one I
have avoided since I had to re-set them after accidentally loosening
them off too much.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

In message , fred writes
In article , Tim Lamb
writes
In message om, F
Murtz writes

It is possible to adjust the cutters when installing them so that they
cut the depth required all the time with the front level with the back
like a normal plane but most people set their cutters fine and adjust
depth using the front setting as that is the most practicable (just
have to get used to the planes characteristics.

Yes.

My ancient Wolf plane comes with a jig to set the cutters level with the
base after sharpening.

Wish I had one for my equally ancient B&D, the blade adjustment is very
tricky and you need to be careful not to overloosen the drum screws
when changing the blades or it all needs re-set again.

Somebody clearly thought about this. Each blade has an adjustable
flanged bracket which fits a slot on the drum. The jig has a plastic
shoulder to reference the blade edge and you simply hold the flange
tightly against the back of the jig while tightening the clamp screws.
The distance between the new edge and the flange is thus kept the same.

For the o/p, on mine, there are allen screws holding the blade clamps
(3 for each). Loosening these a tad lets you change the blade by siding
out but loosening them further allows the blade clamp to float about
such that it can be adjusted. As I said, this is a tricky procedure and
one I have avoided since I had to re-set them after accidentally
loosening them off too much.

I suppose you could pretend you were adjusting a planer thicknesser: set
the depth control to be the same as the shoe. Hold the planer upside
down in a vice and use a straight piece of wood resting along the shoe
to test if rotating the drum moves the wood.

--
Tim Lamb

On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 11:08:47 AM UTC, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , fred writes
In article , Tim Lamb
writes
In message om, F
Murtz writes

It is possible to adjust the cutters when installing them so that they
cut the depth required all the time with the front level with the back
like a normal plane but most people set their cutters fine and adjust
depth using the front setting as that is the most practicable (just
have to get used to the planes characteristics.

Yes.

My ancient Wolf plane comes with a jig to set the cutters level with the
base after sharpening.

Wish I had one for my equally ancient B&D, the blade adjustment is very
tricky and you need to be careful not to overloosen the drum screws
when changing the blades or it all needs re-set again.

Somebody clearly thought about this. Each blade has an adjustable
flanged bracket which fits a slot on the drum. The jig has a plastic
shoulder to reference the blade edge and you simply hold the flange
tightly against the back of the jig while tightening the clamp screws.
The distance between the new edge and the flange is thus kept the same.

For the o/p, on mine, there are allen screws holding the blade clamps
(3 for each). Loosening these a tad lets you change the blade by siding
out but loosening them further allows the blade clamp to float about
such that it can be adjusted. As I said, this is a tricky procedure and
one I have avoided since I had to re-set them after accidentally
loosening them off too much.

I suppose you could pretend you were adjusting a planer thicknesser: set
the depth control to be the same as the shoe. Hold the planer upside
down in a vice and use a straight piece of wood resting along the shoe
to test if rotating the drum moves the wood.

--
Tim Lamb

There are lots of gadgets to help set plane blades. Some as simple as a magnet. Checking that the slip of wood as you describe moves the same distance with every blade is simple and effective.

In article , Tim Lamb
writes

I suppose you could pretend you were adjusting a planer thicknesser: set
the depth control to be the same as the shoe. Hold the planer upside
down in a vice and use a straight piece of wood resting along the shoe
to test if rotating the drum moves the wood.

Thanks for the tips, I shall try that next time. Not a big concern ATM
as I tend to use it in a quick and dirty semi bulk removal tool.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .