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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Building a concealed door
In the void underneath my stairs I plan to box part of it in but have
access via a concealed door. the door would be a framework and plasterboard. The top/bottom and `latch` side I am ok with as a facing strip of wood will conceal the `join` . My main concern is the hinge side and my best option (that I can see) is using pivot hinges so that the last couple of inches at the hinge side swivels inward as the door opens outward. Any thoughts or ideas on this? |
#2
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Building a concealed door
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#3
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Building a concealed door
On 21/10/2014 23:47, Vic wrote:
In article , says... In the void underneath my stairs I plan to box part of it in but have access via a concealed door. the door would be a framework and plasterboard. The top/bottom and `latch` side I am ok with as a facing strip of wood will conceal the `join` . My main concern is the hinge side and my best option (that I can see) is using pivot hinges so that the last couple of inches at the hinge side swivels inward as the door opens outward. Any thoughts or ideas on this? How about the type of hinges used for kitchen units, which allow adjacent doors to close tightly together. +1 Or, if it's not used frequently, have a panel without hinges and use magnets to hold it in place |
#4
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Building a concealed door
What is it going to be used for? If its opened rarely then simply make it a
hatch and take it off when you need to get in. Brian -- From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active "ss" wrote in message ... In the void underneath my stairs I plan to box part of it in but have access via a concealed door. the door would be a framework and plasterboard. The top/bottom and `latch` side I am ok with as a facing strip of wood will conceal the `join` . My main concern is the hinge side and my best option (that I can see) is using pivot hinges so that the last couple of inches at the hinge side swivels inward as the door opens outward. Any thoughts or ideas on this? |
#5
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Building a concealed door
On 2014-10-22, Brian Gaff wrote:
What is it going to be used for? If its opened rarely then simply make it a hatch and take it off when you need to get in. Don't ask. You don't want to know. ;-) |
#6
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Building a concealed door
Adam Funk wrote in
: On 2014-10-22, Brian Gaff wrote: What is it going to be used for? If its opened rarely then simply make it a hatch and take it off when you need to get in. Don't ask. You don't want to know. ;-) Do you live in Rillington Place? |
#7
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Building a concealed door
Given his nome de plume is "SS"....
Anne Frank re-enactment? Fetching coat Jim K On Wednesday, 22 October 2014 10:02:46 UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote: What is it going to be used for? If its opened rarely then simply make it a hatch and take it off when you need to get in. Brian -- From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active "ss" wrote in message ... In the void underneath my stairs I plan to box part of it in but have access via a concealed door. the door would be a framework and plasterboard. The top/bottom and `latch` side I am ok with as a facing strip of wood will conceal the `join` . My main concern is the hinge side and my best option (that I can see) is using pivot hinges so that the last couple of inches at the hinge side swivels inward as the door opens outward. Any thoughts or ideas on this? |
#8
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Building a concealed door
ss wrote:
In the void underneath my stairs I plan to box part of it in but have access via a concealed door. the door would be a framework and plasterboard. The top/bottom and `latch` side I am ok with as a facing strip of wood will conceal the `join` . My main concern is the hinge side and my best option (that I can see) is using pivot hinges so that the last couple of inches at the hinge side swivels inward as the door opens outward. Any thoughts or ideas on this? Why? Do you need to conceal a priest? |
#9
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Building a concealed door
On 22/10/2014 13:42, F Murtz wrote:
ss wrote: In the void underneath my stairs I plan to box part of it in but have access via a concealed door. the door would be a framework and plasterboard. The top/bottom and `latch` side I am ok with as a facing strip of wood will conceal the `join` . My main concern is the hinge side and my best option (that I can see) is using pivot hinges so that the last couple of inches at the hinge side swivels inward as the door opens outward. Any thoughts or ideas on this? Why? Do you need to conceal a priest? The reason for it is I currently have a load of electrical tools that I dont use much and are stored in an alarmed outdoor shed but will slowly rust.The other half wont let them indoors unless they are out of sight. So this is a convenient space to use. Now if I store them there I dont want them nicked should I have a break in hence the reason for concealing it. Will also be useful for stacking any valuables if going on hols. Previous poster, I will have a look at door kitchen hinges and see if that would suffice. Although the magnets would work I would prefer a fixed door. |
#10
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Building a concealed door
"F Murtz" wrote in message eb.com... ss wrote: In the void underneath my stairs I plan to box part of it in but have access via a concealed door. the door would be a framework and plasterboard. The top/bottom and `latch` side I am ok with as a facing strip of wood will conceal the `join` . My main concern is the hinge side and my best option (that I can see) is using pivot hinges so that the last couple of inches at the hinge side swivels inward as the door opens outward. Any thoughts or ideas on this? Why? Do you need to conceal a priest? Yes, he's a moslem and is an obvious terrorist suspect now. |
#11
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Building a concealed door
On 21/10/2014 22:25, ss wrote:
In the void underneath my stairs I plan to box part of it in but have access via a concealed door. the door would be a framework and plasterboard. The top/bottom and `latch` side I am ok with as a facing strip of wood will conceal the `join` . My main concern is the hinge side and my best option (that I can see) is using pivot hinges so that the last couple of inches at the hinge side swivels inward as the door opens outward. Any thoughts or ideas on this? Soss hinges recess completely into the door edge and are not visible when the door is closed: http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/c/cabin...ss-hinges/4908 -- Colin Bignell |
#12
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Building a concealed door
On 22/10/2014 15:32, Nightjar "cpb"@ insert my surname here wrote:
On 21/10/2014 22:25, ss wrote: In the void underneath my stairs I plan to box part of it in but have access via a concealed door. the door would be a framework and plasterboard. The top/bottom and `latch` side I am ok with as a facing strip of wood will conceal the `join` . My main concern is the hinge side and my best option (that I can see) is using pivot hinges so that the last couple of inches at the hinge side swivels inward as the door opens outward. Any thoughts or ideas on this? Soss hinges recess completely into the door edge and are not visible when the door is closed: http://www.hafele.co.uk/shop/c/cabin...ss-hinges/4908 Thanks Colin. |
#13
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Building a concealed door
/Soss hinges recess completely into the door edge and are not visible
when the door is closed: /q They do, but IME of small ones they are weak, especially when stressed like a door hinge. They're not cheap either. Ymmv Jim K |
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