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Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just over a year. It was working but I could not access its http console (visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled). After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else. It was as if the control part of the device had failed.
It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to factory presets possible.
Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had lasted years.
I know none of these are high end devices, but they should do the job.
DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)
Simon.
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On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:25:33 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson
wrote:

Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just over a year. It was working but I could not access its http console (visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled). After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else. It was as if the control part of the device had failed.
It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to factory presets possible.
Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had lasted years.
I know none of these are high end devices, but they should do the job.
DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)
Simon.


Thanks, but I don't think a sample size of 1 as going to influence me
one way or the other.

Apart from that, you havn't given us the model number.



--

Graham.

%Profound_observation%
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In message , Graham.
writes
On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:25:33 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson
wrote:

Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just over
a year. It was working but I could not access its http console
(visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled).
After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else. It was as
if the control part of the device had failed.
It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to factory
presets possible.
Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had lasted years.
I know none of these are high end devices, but they should do the job.
DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)
Simon.


Thanks, but I don't think a sample size of 1 as going to influence me
one way or the other.


Indeed, my TP link wireless AP has been running ok for a few years now
--
Chris French

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On Monday, October 13, 2014 10:19:29 PM UTC+1, Graham. wrote:
On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:25:33 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson

wrote:



Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just over a year. It was working but I could not access its http console (visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled). After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else. It was as if the control part of the device had failed.


It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to factory presets possible.


Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had lasted years.


I know none of these are high end devices, but they should do the job.


DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)


Simon.




Thanks, but I don't think a sample size of 1 as going to influence me

one way or the other.



Apart from that, you havn't given us the model number.


Oh I didn't think I'd bother. I didn't think a sample size of 1 was going to influence you one way or the other. Don't you recognize and excuse to vent ? (model TD-W8961ND Ver 3.0 S/N 12986703642).
A sample size of 1 may be statistically insignificant, but there is a significant chance that if something happens, it happens more than once (because its due to an underlying design factor). Or is it because I split my coffee in it ?
Simon.
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On Monday, October 13, 2014 10:59:39 PM UTC+1, sm_jamieson wrote:
On Monday, October 13, 2014 10:19:29 PM UTC+1, Graham. wrote:

On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:25:33 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson




wrote:








Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just over a year. It was working but I could not access its http console (visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled). After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else. It was as if the control part of the device had failed.




It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to factory presets possible.




Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had lasted years.




I know none of these are high end devices, but they should do the job.




DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)




Simon.








Thanks, but I don't think a sample size of 1 as going to influence me




one way or the other.








Apart from that, you havn't given us the model number.






Oh I didn't think I'd bother. I didn't think a sample size of 1 was going to influence you one way or the other. Don't you recognize and excuse to vent ? (model TD-W8961ND Ver 3.0 S/N 12986703642).

A sample size of 1 may be statistically insignificant, but there is a significant chance that if something happens, it happens more than once (because its due to an underlying design factor). Or is it because I split my coffee in it ?

Simon.


Those few typos make me sound more angry than I am. My contact lenses are getting a bit blurry.
Simon.


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On Monday, October 13, 2014 11:23:20 PM UTC+1, Jethro_uk wrote:
On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 22:45:43 +0100, Chris French wrote:



In message , Graham.


writes


On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:25:33 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson


wrote:




Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just over


a year. It was working but I could not access its http console (visitor


wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled).


After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else. It was as


if the control part of the device had failed.


It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to factory


presets possible.


Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had lasted


years.


I know none of these are high end devices, but they should do the job.


DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)


Simon.




Thanks, but I don't think a sample size of 1 as going to influence me


one way or the other.






Indeed, my TP link wireless AP has been running ok for a few years now




And mine 18 months + ...


I'm sure mine failed earlier than most, but I was still not inclined to go out and buy the same model again !
Simon.
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On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 22:45:43 +0100, Chris French
wrote:

In message , Graham.
writes
On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:25:33 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson
wrote:

Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just over
a year. It was working but I could not access its http console
(visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled).
After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else. It was as
if the control part of the device had failed.
It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to factory
presets possible.
Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had lasted years.
I know none of these are high end devices, but they should do the job.
DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)
Simon.


Thanks, but I don't think a sample size of 1 as going to influence me
one way or the other.


Indeed, my TP link wireless AP has been running ok for a few years now


My TP Link router replaced my Belkin router which died earlier this
year but as each of them only cost about a tenner I tend to think of
them as consumables like paper and ink. I could buy a really nice
router for Belkin/TP price x n where n is a big number but I'm not
convinced a nice router would stay alive n-times longer than my
cheapies or even that computers will still use the same standards in
n-times years time.

Nick
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On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 00:38:04 +0100
Nick Odell wrote:

On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 22:45:43 +0100, Chris French
wrote:

In message , Graham.
writes
On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 13:25:33 -0700 (PDT), sm_jamieson
wrote:

Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just
over a year. It was working but I could not access its http
console (visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power
cycled). After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing
else. It was as if the control part of the device had failed.
It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to
factory presets possible.
Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had
lasted years. I know none of these are high end devices, but they
should do the job. DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in
myself ;-) Simon.

Thanks, but I don't think a sample size of 1 as going to influence
me one way or the other.


Indeed, my TP link wireless AP has been running ok for a few years
now


My TP Link router replaced my Belkin router which died earlier this
year but as each of them only cost about a tenner I tend to think of
them as consumables like paper and ink. I could buy a really nice
router for Belkin/TP price x n where n is a big number but I'm not
convinced a nice router would stay alive n-times longer than my
cheapies or even that computers will still use the same standards in
n-times years time.

Nick


I used the same logic when buying wrist watches, preferring
supermarket cheapies over the likes of Omega etc. If it breaks down,
replace it. Now I don't even use one.

--
Davey.
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Nick Odell wrote
Chris French wrote
Graham. wrote
wrote


Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just
over a year. It was working but I could not access its http console
(visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled).


After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else.


It was as if the control part of the device had failed.


It would not even respond to the reset button,
so no return to factory presets possible.


Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear
router I had lasted years. I know none of these are
high end devices, but they should do the job.


DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)


Thanks, but I don't think a sample size of 1 as
going to influence me one way or the other.


Indeed, my TP link wireless AP has been running ok for a few years now


My TP Link router replaced my Belkin router which died earlier this
year but as each of them only cost about a tenner I tend to think of
them as consumables like paper and ink. I could buy a really nice
router for Belkin/TP price x n where n is a big number but I'm not
convinced a nice router would stay alive n-times longer than my cheapies


None of mine have died yet.

or even that computers will still use the
same standards in n-times years time.


That's the reason the previous ones have been
replaced, first to get wifi and then to get ADSL2+

Not that the current one cost much, got it at a garage/yard
sale for peanuts because it has full voip support too.
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Davey wrote
Nick Odell wrote
Chris French wrote
Graham. wrote
wrote


Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just
over a year. It was working but I could not access its http
console (visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power
cycled). After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing
else. It was as if the control part of the device had failed.
It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to
factory presets possible.
Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had
lasted years. I know none of these are high end devices, but they
should do the job. DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in
myself ;-) Simon.

Thanks, but I don't think a sample size of 1 as going to influence
me one way or the other.


Indeed, my TP link wireless AP has been running ok for a few years
now


My TP Link router replaced my Belkin router which died earlier this
year but as each of them only cost about a tenner I tend to think of
them as consumables like paper and ink. I could buy a really nice
router for Belkin/TP price x n where n is a big number but I'm not
convinced a nice router would stay alive n-times longer than my
cheapies or even that computers will still use the same standards in
n-times years time.


I used the same logic when buying wrist watches, preferring
supermarket cheapies over the likes of Omega etc. If it breaks down,
replace it. Now I don't even use one.


I don't either anymore, but with stuff like routers
and smartphones I want something that performs
a lot better than the lowest cost **** does.

And absolutely classic example of that is the lowest
cost android smartphones that have so little memory
that you can install **** all apps on them. What is the
point of farting around like that when paying a bit
more for a phone with a decent amount of memory
avoids all that farting around entirely ?


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On Monday, October 13, 2014 9:25:33 PM UTC+1, sm_jamieson wrote:
Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just over a year. It was working but I could not access its http console (visitor wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled). After that it acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else. It was as if the control part of the device had failed.

It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to factory presets possible.

Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had lasted years.

I know none of these are high end devices, but they should do the job.

DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)

Simon.


I've given up with my TP-Link WR1043D after about 18 months - it falls over if it gets slightly too warm and has a number of irritating minor bugs, for example some, but not all, internet radio station start buffering after half an hour or so. I assumed it was issues with the streams, but having switched back to my bombproof old Netgear DG834G, that streams all stations fine and doesn't fall over if the ambient temperature reaches 25C or whatever. The TP-Link was very cheap for the functionality but looks like for once I got what I paid for.

I suppose as this is Uk d-I-y I ought to flash the TP-link with DD-WRT or somesuch third party firmware but frankly I don't have that much time to waste.

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Brian Gaff wrote

Hmm, most odd. I thought the innards of these things tended to be the same
just badge engineered tese days.


No they are not.


"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
...
Dont't buy a tp-link ADSL wireless router ! Mine only lasted just over a
year. It was working but I could not access its http console (visitor
wanted the pass phrase), so I restarted it (power cycled). After that it
acted as an ethernet switch but nothing else. It was as if the control
part of the device had failed.
It would not even respond to the reset button, so no return to factory
presets possible.
Replaced with a netgear one - the previous netgear router I had lasted
years.
I know none of these are high end devices, but they should do the job.
DIY ? Well I bought it myself and plugged it in myself ;-)
Simon.

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"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...
Brian Gaff wrote

Hmm, most odd. I thought the innards of these things tended to be the
same just badge engineered tese days.


No they are not.


****inell, is there any subject wodders is not an expert on?

he sounds like such an asset that i bet the government is regretting
deporting his granddad with the other criminals all those years ago,



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"Gazz" wrote in message ...

"Rod Speed" wrote in message
...
Brian Gaff wrote

Hmm, most odd. I thought the innards of these things tended to be the
same just badge engineered tese days.


No they are not.


****inell, is there any subject wodders is not an expert on?


Even someone as stupid as you should be
able to check what it looks like from the ip.

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On 13/10/14 23:23, Jethro_uk wrote:
On Mon, 13 Oct 2014 22:45:43 +0100, Chris French wrote:

In message , Graham.


Indeed, my TP link wireless AP has been running ok for a few years now


And mine 18 months + ...


2 years ish...

Mine did have a bug where it would drop the wireless connection.
However, I saw a beta firmware release mentioning it had fixed this
(before I'd fully realised - I thought it was my laptop being silly) and
it's been fine ever since.

Personally I'm quite impressed with the feature set on mine.
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On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 19:17:15 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:

Brian Gaff wrote

Hmm, most odd. I thought the innards of these things tended to be the same
just badge engineered tese days.


No they are not.


That's a bit of a sweeping statement. It's surprising just how
different they can be. However, you do see badge engineered versions
of Zyxel(?) and Netgear kit re-marketed by the likes of Peak and
(spit!) Belkin.

If I had to make do with a badge engineered version, I'd choose Peak
over Belkin every time. The hardware might be the same but the OEM
customer (Belkin) will usually employ someone to write, in Belkin's
case, a ****e version of the firmware so full of security lapses as to
turn a moderately bad piece of kit into a festering PoS so bad that
anyone with a moderate level of knowledge wouldn't want to touch it
with a bargepole.
--
J B Good


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On 14/10/2014 16:54, Johny B Good wrote:
On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 00:42:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

====snip====


I've given up with my TP-Link WR1043D after about 18 months - it falls over if it gets slightly too warm and has a number of irritating minor bugs, for example some, but not all, internet radio station start buffering after half an hour or so. I assumed it was issues with the streams, but having switched back to my bombproof old Netgear DG834G, that streams all stations fine and doesn't fall over if the ambient temperature reaches 25C or whatever. The TP-Link was very cheap for the functionality but looks like for once I got what I paid for.

I suppose as this is Uk d-I-y I ought to flash the TP-link with DD-WRT or somesuch third party firmware but frankly I don't have that much time to waste.


If there's a DD-WRT firmware available for that model, I'd be taking
it apart to replace any suspect caps and enlarge any existing vent
slots and adding a couple of square inches worth of ventillation holes
in the base of the case (7 to 10 mm drill bit sized) and, if
necessary, drill a few in the top of the case to supplement the
existing vent slots if the effective CSA can't be increased to match
the holes in the base[1]. _THEN_ and only then, would I deem it worthy
of such a firmware upgrade.

[1] See what I just did there? Offer some real, good old fashioned
DIY advice. :-)


fx applause

In case its any use, some info on DIY cap replacement etc:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...air#Capacitors



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
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On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 09:41:15 +0100, fred wrote:

In article ,
writes

I've given up with my TP-Link WR1043D after about 18 months - it falls over if it
gets slightly too warm and has a number of irritating minor bugs, for example
some, but not all, internet radio station start buffering after half an hour or so. I
assumed it was issues with the streams, but having switched back to my
bombproof old Netgear DG834G, that streams all stations fine and doesn't fall over
if the ambient temperature reaches 25C or whatever. The TP-Link was very cheap
for the functionality but looks like for once I got what I paid for.

Check out the voltage of the plug top power supply under load, I've had
a couple fail early. They show fine off load, it was the old bad caps
story


That's actually an excellent observation. That could well be the root
of Simon's problems with the TP-Link.

However, since the use of switching regulators in these cheap
commodity routers and switches has displaced those ancient analogue
voltage regulators for well over a decade now (purely on cost cutting
grounds), it's a simple enough problem to fix since the only matching
requirement of a substitute wallwart is plug size and VA rating over a
voltage ranging from a low of 6 to a max of 15 volts DC.

The switching regulator will (unlike the specials used in laptop
power management switching regulators) cheerfully accept a wide range
of input voltages equal to or greater than the output voltage
threshold (typically 5 volt) that's within the upper input voltage
limit, usually defined by the input capacitor voltage rating
(conservatively, a maximum of 15 volts).

You can safely power 99% of all such kit from any 10VA rated
nominally 12 volt wallwart that happens to have a suitably matched
plug on the end of its DC output lead (if necessary, you could always
use the plug off the old wallwart to fix this issue if needs must).

--
J B Good
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On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 02:15:10 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 9:41:15 AM UTC+1, fred wrote:
In article ,


====snip====


Check out the voltage of the plug top power supply under load, I've had

a couple fail early. They show fine off load, it was the old bad caps

story



--

fred

it's a ba-na-na . . . .


Thanks for the tip, might try running it off a proper stabilised PSU for a week then and see what happens.


If you've got a variable voltage bench psu to hand, you can start off
at the 'rated' input voltage and slowly wind it down, observing the
current draw. It's extremely unlikely that you won't observe the
negative slope in the volt/current plot that's characteristic of a
switching regulator.

If you observe this, you can then increase the voltage above the
'rated' voltage, perhaps limiting it to a max of 15 volts just to
remain on the safe side of the input cap's voltage rating.

Once you've ascertained the use of a switching regulator by the
wallwart powered router or switch, you'll know for sure that it's safe
to make use of almost any old wallwart with a sufficient VA rating as
a replacement for the originaly supplied wallwart.

The only remaining issue being the question of the DC lead's jack
plug size. IME, such jack plug issues don't occur all that often since
there seems to be a singular size favoured by the makers of such kit
(unlike the laptop makers who deem out of warrantyreplacement mains
charging bricks to be their version of inkjet refills).

HTH
--
J B Good
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In article , John
Rumm writes
On 14/10/2014 16:54, Johny B Good wrote:
On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 00:42:37 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

If there's a DD-WRT firmware available for that model, I'd be taking
it apart to replace any suspect caps and enlarge any existing vent
slots and adding a couple of square inches worth of ventillation holes
in the base of the case (7 to 10 mm drill bit sized) and, if
necessary, drill a few in the top of the case to supplement the
existing vent slots if the effective CSA can't be increased to match
the holes in the base[1]. _THEN_ and only then, would I deem it worthy
of such a firmware upgrade.

[1] See what I just did there? Offer some real, good old fashioned
DIY advice. :-)


fx applause

In case its any use, some info on DIY cap replacement etc:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...air#Capacitors

I try to mount my modem/routers, switches, access points and VOIP stuff
vertically on wall mounted boards as I reckon the cooling will be better
that way. We've not got enough to make rack mounting worthwhile.

Side benefits are they don't get kicked about and I don't have to bend
down so far to work on them :-)

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .


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Johny B Good wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Brian Gaff wrote


Hmm, most odd. I thought the innards of these things
tended to be the same just badge engineered tese days.


No they are not.


That's a bit of a sweeping statement.


Sure, but they arent all the same device rebadged.

It's surprising just how different they can be.


So they can't all be the same device rebadged.

However, you do see badge engineered versions
of Zyxel(?) and Netgear kit re-marketed by the
likes of Peak and (spit!) Belkin.


Sure, but that's not what he said.

If I had to make do with a badge engineered version, I'd choose
Peak over Belkin every time. The hardware might be the same but
the OEM customer (Belkin) will usually employ someone to write,
in Belkin's case, a ****e version of the firmware so full of security
lapses as to turn a moderately bad piece of kit into a festering
PoS so bad that anyone with a moderate level of knowledge
wouldn't want to touch it with a bargepole.


So even that isnt just badge engineering.
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On Wed, 15 Oct 2014 06:09:38 +1100, "Rod Speed"
wrote:

Johny B Good wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Brian Gaff wrote


Hmm, most odd. I thought the innards of these things
tended to be the same just badge engineered tese days.


No they are not.


That's a bit of a sweeping statement. It's surprising just how
different they can be. However, you do see badge engineered versions
of Zyxel(?) and Netgear kit re-marketed by the likes of Peak and
(spit!) Belkin.

Sure, but they arent all the same device rebadged.


You'd be surprised by what some of the off-brands turn out to be
based on when looking for firmware updates.


However, you do see badge engineered versions
of Zyxel(?) and Netgear kit re-marketed by the likes of Peak and
(spit!) Belkin.


So they can't all be the same device rebadged.


I wasn't claiming any such thing, just pointing out that the truth of
the matter lies somewhere in between, as it so often does with such
kit.


However, you do see badge engineered versions
of Zyxel(?) and Netgear kit re-marketed by the
likes of Peak and (spit!) Belkin.


Sure, but that's not what he said.


True enough, he was opining that _most_ of this kit was a matter of
badge engineering based on just one or two reference designs, an
opinion that's just as far off the mark as your claim to the contrary.


If I had to make do with a badge engineered version, I'd choose
Peak over Belkin every time. The hardware might be the same but
the OEM customer (Belkin) will usually employ someone to write,
in Belkin's case, a ****e version of the firmware so full of security
lapses as to turn a moderately bad piece of kit into a festering
PoS so bad that anyone with a moderate level of knowledge
wouldn't want to touch it with a bargepole.


So even that isnt just badge engineering.


No, that's not just badge engineering but badge engineering of the
worst kind, the kind you wouldn't want to touch, not even with a
bargepole.
--
J B Good
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Default tp-link router died

Johny B Good wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Johny B Good wrote
Rod Speed wrote
Brian Gaff wrote


Hmm, most odd. I thought the innards of these things
tended to be the same just badge engineered tese days.


No they are not.


That's a bit of a sweeping statement. It's surprising
just how different they can be. However, you do see
badge engineered versions of Zyxel(?) and Netgear
kit re-marketed by the likes of Peak and (spit!) Belkin.


Sure, but they arent all the same device rebadged.


You'd be surprised by what some of the off-brands turn
out to be based on when looking for firmware updates.


No I would not, and we weren't discussing off
brands when Brian made that comment anyway.

However, you do see badge engineered versions
of Zyxel(?) and Netgear kit re-marketed by the
likes of Peak and (spit!) Belkin.


So they can't all be the same device rebadged.


I wasn't claiming any such thing,


Never said you did.

just pointing out that the truth of the matter lies
somewhere in between, as it so often does with such kit.


And I pointed out to Brian that what he said isnt true of
the brands being discussed when he made that comment.

However, you do see badge engineered versions
of Zyxel(?) and Netgear kit re-marketed by the
likes of Peak and (spit!) Belkin.


Sure, but that's not what he said.


True enough, he was opining that _most_ of this kit was a matter
of badge engineering based on just one or two reference designs,


He didn't say anything about one or two reference designs.

an opinion that's just as far off the mark as your claim to the contrary.


Not it is not with the brands being discussed
when we made those comments.

If I had to make do with a badge engineered version, I'd choose
Peak over Belkin every time. The hardware might be the same but
the OEM customer (Belkin) will usually employ someone to write,
in Belkin's case, a ****e version of the firmware so full of security
lapses as to turn a moderately bad piece of kit into a festering
PoS so bad that anyone with a moderate level of knowledge
wouldn't want to touch it with a bargepole.


So even that isnt just badge engineering.


No, that's not just badge engineering
but badge engineering of the worst kind,


It isnt badge engineering at all, JUST the use
of common hardware with their own firmware.

the kind you wouldn't want to
touch, not even with a bargepole.


Separate matter entirely to what was being discussed.
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Default tp-link router died

On Tuesday, October 14, 2014 5:24:14 PM UTC+1, Johny B Good wrote:
On Tue, 14 Oct 2014 09:41:15 +0100, fred wrote:



In article ,


writes




I've given up with my TP-Link WR1043D after about 18 months - it falls over if it


gets slightly too warm and has a number of irritating minor bugs, for example


some, but not all, internet radio station start buffering after half an hour or so. I


assumed it was issues with the streams, but having switched back to my


bombproof old Netgear DG834G, that streams all stations fine and doesn't fall over


if the ambient temperature reaches 25C or whatever. The TP-Link was very cheap


for the functionality but looks like for once I got what I paid for.




Check out the voltage of the plug top power supply under load, I've had


a couple fail early. They show fine off load, it was the old bad caps


story




That's actually an excellent observation. That could well be the root

of Simon's problems with the TP-Link.



However, since the use of switching regulators in these cheap

commodity routers and switches has displaced those ancient analogue

voltage regulators for well over a decade now (purely on cost cutting

grounds), it's a simple enough problem to fix since the only matching

requirement of a substitute wallwart is plug size and VA rating over a

voltage ranging from a low of 6 to a max of 15 volts DC.



The switching regulator will (unlike the specials used in laptop

power management switching regulators) cheerfully accept a wide range

of input voltages equal to or greater than the output voltage

threshold (typically 5 volt) that's within the upper input voltage

limit, usually defined by the input capacitor voltage rating

(conservatively, a maximum of 15 volts).



You can safely power 99% of all such kit from any 10VA rated

nominally 12 volt wallwart that happens to have a suitably matched

plug on the end of its DC output lead (if necessary, you could always

use the plug off the old wallwart to fix this issue if needs must).



--

J B Good


Maybe I shouldn't throw it away then, however I suspect it would go into that box of things that I really should throw away, to be fixed one day. If I manage to keep stuff long enough I could fix them in my retirement, but I'm sure the stuff would be obsolete by then.
Simon.
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