I've got one of these

http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/fire-va...-fire-8369.htm

mounted in an inaccessible-ish location down the side of an aga.

Its ****ing diesel out.

Its almost impossible to remove because its in-line with the actual
pipework and there's no room to spread the pipes to insert a new one

I've taken out the guts and its two O-rings - one to stop the oil flow
and another to stop the gland leaking.

Neither appeared damaged, but the gland is leaking.

Anyone had any success replacing the guts with the guts from a new one?




--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 13:09:28 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

mounted in an inaccessible-ish location down the side of an aga.

The fire valve should be outside the building to prevent oil entering
in the event of a fire. They have long capillary tubes to get the
heat sensor into the vicinity of the oil burning device. I'm not
familiar with Agas but I would assume there is somewhere for a fire
valve phial to fit. With a boiler it would go inside the casing
somewhere.

As it's such a PITA to access why don't you remove it and fit a new,
capillary not fusible head, one outside where you can get at it?

Its ****ing diesel out.

Diesel? BWTH you don't want either diesel or kerosene in the house,
far to pongy.

--
Cheers
Dave.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...

I've got one of these

http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/fire-va...-fire-8369.htm

mounted in an inaccessible-ish location down the side of an aga.

Its ****ing diesel out.

Its almost impossible to remove because its in-line with the actual
pipework and there's no room to spread the pipes to insert a new one


This is what slip couplings are for.
http://www.plumbersbase.co.uk/oursho...-Coupling.html

On 12/08/14 17:12, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 13:09:28 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

mounted in an inaccessible-ish location down the side of an aga.

The fire valve should be outside the building to prevent oil entering
in the event of a fire. They have long capillary tubes to get the
heat sensor into the vicinity of the oil burning device. I'm not
familiar with Agas but I would assume there is somewhere for a fire
valve phial to fit. With a boiler it would go inside the casing
somewhere.


Different fire valve

In fact I have 3 on that aga.

One capillary inside the frame. One fusible head near the float chamber
and one external to the building with the sensor in the (stud) wall



As it's such a PITA to access why don't you remove it and fit a new,
capillary not fusible head, one outside where you can get at it?

Its ****ing diesel out.

Diesel? BWTH you don't want either diesel or kerosene in the house,
far to pongy.

generic word for 28 sec heating oil. They are all kerosenes and or diesels



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 21:29:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

One capillary inside the frame. One fusible head near the float chamber
and one external to the building with the sensor in the (stud) wall

That last one, which is arguably the most important, won't do much
until the place is "well alight". B-)

Sounds as if that installation was installed by "professionals", like
the ones that installed our the oil boiler here for the previous
owners, capillary fire valve inside, twin wall flue and terminal that
are not designed for oil (the terminal is actually marked "gas only".

Diesel? BWTH you don't want either diesel or kerosene in the
house,
far to pongy.

generic word for 28 sec heating oil. They are all kerosenes and or
diesels

Diesel is 35 sec ... and some (old) heating kit does run on 35 sec
"diesel" rather than 28 sec "kerosene".

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 13/08/14 08:21, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 21:29:51 +0100, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

One capillary inside the frame. One fusible head near the float chamber
and one external to the building with the sensor in the (stud) wall

That last one, which is arguably the most important, won't do much
until the place is "well alight". B-)

Sounds as if that installation was installed by "professionals", like
the ones that installed our the oil boiler here for the previous
owners, capillary fire valve inside, twin wall flue and terminal that
are not designed for oil (the terminal is actually marked "gas only".

Diesel? BWTH you don't want either diesel or kerosene in the
house,
far to pongy.

generic word for 28 sec heating oil. They are all kerosenes and or
diesels

Diesel is 35 sec ... and some (old) heating kit does run on 35 sec
"diesel" rather than 28 sec "kerosene".

Well really the actual range of compounds in products described by both
terms is as diverse as it is similar.

You can certainly run cars off heating oil.
And boilers off car fuel if it wasn't so expensive.



--
Everything you read in newspapers is absolutely true, except for the
rare story of which you happen to have first-hand knowledge. €“ Erwin Knoll

On Tue, 12 Aug 2014 13:09:28 +0100, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

I've got one of these

http://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/fire-va...-fire-8369.htm

mounted in an inaccessible-ish location down the side of an aga.

Its ****ing diesel out.

Its almost impossible to remove because its in-line with the actual
pipework and there's no room to spread the pipes to insert a new one

I've taken out the guts and its two O-rings - one to stop the oil flow
and another to stop the gland leaking.

Neither appeared damaged, but the gland is leaking.

Anyone had any success replacing the guts with the guts from a new one?

They're **** and now outlawed, at least here.

On Wed, 13 Aug 2014 08:21:32 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

Diesel is 35 sec ... and some (old) heating kit does run on 35 sec
"diesel" rather than 28 sec "kerosene".

Plenty of new stuff does, too. You just specify what you want.
Basically, bump up the pump pressure and bigger nozzle - lots of
farmhouses run on diesel heating.