Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily
Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.

For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil. NASA
says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive Oil
degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really can find
an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?

On Thursday, May 1, 2014 10:56:47 AM UTC+1, P Jameson wrote:

Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily
Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.
For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil. NASA
says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive Oil
degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really can find
an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?

olive sets into a tough very sticky rubber in a couple of years.


NT

On Thursday, 1 May 2014 10:56:47 UTC+1, P Jameson wrote:
Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily

Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.



For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil. NASA

says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive Oil

degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really can find

an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?

I've always thought use WD40 for freeing things that are stuck and 3 in 1 for keeping things moving. Olive oil was popeye's misses,

In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 1 May 2014 10:56:47 UTC+1, P Jameson wrote:
Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the
Daily

Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.



For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil.
NASA

says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive Oil

degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really can
find

an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?

I've always thought use WD40 for freeing things that are stuck and 3 in 1
for keeping things moving. Olive oil was popeye's misses,


did you mean missus? But it's really for softening ear wax - until the
foreign cooks came along.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

There is some spray stuff called LDR something or other, and it seems good
at both unsticking and lubricating, but it pongs something terrible.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"charles" wrote in message
...
In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
On Thursday, 1 May 2014 10:56:47 UTC+1, P Jameson wrote:
Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the
Daily

Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.



For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil.
NASA

says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive Oil

degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really can
find

an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?

I've always thought use WD40 for freeing things that are stuck and 3 in 1
for keeping things moving. Olive oil was popeye's misses,


did you mean missus? But it's really for softening ear wax - until the
foreign cooks came along.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

I remember that every time you bought a Scalextric, or Triang train set you
got a little bottle of sewing machine oil, usually branded Shell, with a
little hollow tube of metal attached to a cork top in it for the purpose of
keeping things spinning nicely.
So small these were that when you needed it you could never find the damned
things.

Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
P Jameson wrote:
Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the
Daily Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah
Beany.

For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil.
NASA says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive
Oil degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really
can find an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?

I blame the Chinese. At one time every house would have a can of Singer
sewing machine oil.

--
*Why do overlook and oversee mean opposite things? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thursday, May 1, 2014 4:13:10 PM UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
Well, actually though WD 40 is water displacing its remarkably good in locks

and hinges and lasts quite well as long as you don't over do the spraying as

some paints don't like it much.

As for other oils, castor oil works well.



If you ask 20 diy folk you probably get at least ten answers!

PS, I noticed the other day that you can now buy plastic hinges. Not much

good in a fire, I'd have thought.

Brian



--

From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active

"P Jameson" wrote in message

...

Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily

Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.



For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil. NASA

says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive Oil

degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really can

find an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?



WD40 will displace the grease leading to increase wear and earlier failure / seizure.

Philip

On 01/05/2014 17:21, wrote:

WD40 will displace the grease leading to increase wear and earlier failure / seizure.

You appear to be assuming there *is* grease. This is not always the
case, and I find a squirt of WD40 on the Land Rover hinges lasts as long
as the official grease. I've now been doing this on the same hinges for
a decade or two on a vehicle that is used every day.


--
Tciao for Now!

John.

"P Jameson" wrote in message
...
Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily
Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.

For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil. NASA
says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive Oil
degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really can
find an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?


WD40 is both penetrating and lubricant.

On 01/05/2014 17:21, wrote:
On Thursday, May 1, 2014 4:13:10 PM UTC+1, Brian Gaff wrote:
Well, actually though WD 40 is water displacing its remarkably good in locks

and hinges and lasts quite well as long as you don't over do the spraying as

some paints don't like it much.

As for other oils, castor oil works well.



If you ask 20 diy folk you probably get at least ten answers!

PS, I noticed the other day that you can now buy plastic hinges. Not much

good in a fire, I'd have thought.

Brian



--

From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active

"P Jameson" wrote in message

...

Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily

Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.



For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil. NASA

says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive Oil

degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really can

find an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?



WD40 will displace the grease leading to increase wear and earlier failure / seizure.

Philip

WD40 is recommended by Yale.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 01/05/2014 16:13, Brian Gaff wrote:
....
PS, I noticed the other day that you can now buy plastic hinges. Not much
good in a fire, I'd have thought.

You have been able to buy them for decades, but they are not approved
for fire doors. If a typical house internal door gets hot enough in a
fire to melt nylon, the door probably isn't going to last long anyway.

Colin Bignell

On 01/05/2014 18:57, The Medway Handyman wrote:
WD40 is recommended by Yale.

Who have no financial interest in locks needing to be replaced?

All too many "manufacturer of X recommends product Y" are without any
sensible grounds whatsoever. Except, maybe, money.

--
Rod

In message , polygonum
writes
On 01/05/2014 18:57, The Medway Handyman wrote:
WD40 is recommended by Yale.

Who have no financial interest in locks needing to be replaced?

All too many "manufacturer of X recommends product Y" are without any
sensible grounds whatsoever. Except, maybe, money.


WD works fine as a light lubricant, and being an aerosol can easily be
sprayed into a locks innards.

Though most locks seems to go on fine for decades with no additoanl
lubing
--
Chris French

On 01/05/2014 19:48, polygonum wrote:
On 01/05/2014 18:57, The Medway Handyman wrote:
WD40 is recommended by Yale.

Who have no financial interest in locks needing to be replaced?

Who have an interest in maintaining a reputation.

All too many "manufacturer of X recommends product Y" are without any
sensible grounds whatsoever. Except, maybe, money.

Are you suggesting that Yale would accept payment to recommend an
unsuitable product?

WD40 is an excellent lubricant.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"P Jameson" wrote in message
...
Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily
Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.

For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil. NASA
says WD40 is for water displacement 'not' lubrication. and Olive Oil
degrades and becomes rancid, best to use Walnut oil, if you really can
find an oil can. Who writes this stuff for the poor girl?


What's wrong with using a 3B pencil? That graphite is the bees knees.

--
Adam

On 01/05/2014 20:35, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 01/05/2014 19:48, polygonum wrote:
On 01/05/2014 18:57, The Medway Handyman wrote:
WD40 is recommended by Yale.

Who have no financial interest in locks needing to be replaced?

Who have an interest in maintaining a reputation.

All too many "manufacturer of X recommends product Y" are without any
sensible grounds whatsoever. Except, maybe, money.

Are you suggesting that Yale would accept payment to recommend an
unsuitable product?

WD40 is an excellent lubricant.


It doesn't have to be a truly appalling product, just having no special
qualities that might justify the recommendation. And quite possibly
outperformed by other products.

--
Rod

P Jameson wrote:
Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily
Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.
For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil.

I use a squirt of silicone spray furniture polish.

Owain

On Thu, 01 May 2014 20:21:05 +0100, chris French wrote:

In message , polygonum
writes
On 01/05/2014 18:57, The Medway Handyman wrote:
WD40 is recommended by Yale.

Who have no financial interest in locks needing to be replaced?

All too many "manufacturer of X recommends product Y" are without any
sensible grounds whatsoever. Except, maybe, money.


WD works fine as a light lubricant, and being an aerosol can easily be
sprayed into a locks innards.

I just puff in some powdered graphite.



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
My posts (including this one) are my copyright and if @diy_forums on
Twitter wish to tweet them they can pay me £30 a post
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:

I blame the Chinese. At one time every house would have a can of Singer
sewing machine oil.

My parents still have one in the cupboard...

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
"harryagain" writes:

WD40 is both penetrating and lubricant.

and a solvent and a perfume.

The only time you want all these together is to get a sleeve bearing
working again for another 24 hours without bothering to dissassemble it,
whilst you wait for a replacement motor.

In some other situations the solvent can be handy and the lubricant is
harmless as you are wiping it all off.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"harryagain" writes:

WD40 is both penetrating and lubricant.

and a solvent and a perfume.

The only time you want all these together is to get a sleeve bearing
working again for another 24 hours without bothering to dissassemble it,
whilst you wait for a replacement motor.

In some other situations the solvent can be handy and the lubricant is
harmless as you are wiping it all off.

The only good thing about WD40 is that it's easy to get - most
supermarkets will have it. I did use to carry a small one around as a
location sound recordist - ideal for that squeaking garden gate. But I
only needed it to work for a day. ;-)

It's actually not too bad as a switch cleaner.

--
*Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Thursday, May 1, 2014 8:35:39 PM UTC+1, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 01/05/2014 19:48, polygonum wrote:
On 01/05/2014 18:57, The Medway Handyman wrote:

WD40 is recommended by Yale.

Who have no financial interest in locks needing to be replaced?

Who have an interest in maintaining a reputation.

All too many "manufacturer of X recommends product Y" are without any
sensible grounds whatsoever. Except, maybe, money.

Are you suggesting that Yale would accept payment to recommend an
unsuitable product?

Its ineffective. The white spirit just evaporates. Its all money for them, and no harm done

WD40 is an excellent lubricant.

really its not


NT

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The only good thing about WD40 is that it's easy to get - most
supermarkets will have it. I did use to carry a small one around as a
location sound recordist - ideal for that squeaking garden gate. But I
only needed it to work for a day. ;-)

It's actually not too bad as a switch cleaner.

I used to carry a can in the car. One particular one could be
temperamental on a damp morning. Lifting the bonnet and
administering a dose of WD40 usually did the trick.

However, I am not entirely convinced it was really necessary. I
have a feeling that had I simply gone through the motions and
muttered the magic incantation "WD40" the flooded carb might have
sorted itself. I never did have time to carry out a controlled
trial.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.

On Fri, 02 May 2014 12:38:09 +0100, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The only good thing about WD40 is that it's easy to get - most
supermarkets will have it. I did use to carry a small one around as a
location sound recordist - ideal for that squeaking garden gate. But I
only needed it to work for a day. ;-)

It's actually not too bad as a switch cleaner.

I used to carry a can in the car. One particular one could be
temperamental on a damp morning. Lifting the bonnet and administering a
dose of WD40 usually did the trick.

However, I am not entirely convinced it was really necessary. I have a
feeling that had I simply gone through the motions and muttered the
magic incantation "WD40" the flooded carb might have sorted itself. I
never did have time to carry out a controlled trial.

It's pretty well the same stuff as those 'damp start' silicone sprays,
isn't it?

I can vouch for them. Driving an ancient Land Rover from Dover to
Canterbury on a dark and stormy night, and it just died somewhere nera
Lydden. Pretty sure it was damp, so we all huddled round the open bonnet
to block the wind while I sprayed the leads. Instant success.


--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
My posts (including this one) are my copyright and if @diy_forums on
Twitter wish to tweet them they can pay me £30 a post
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

In article , Bob Eager
writes
On Thu, 01 May 2014 20:21:05 +0100, chris French wrote:

WD works fine as a light lubricant, and being an aerosol can easily be
sprayed into a locks innards.

I just puff in some powdered graphite.

Next person along uses WD and the mix sets like concrete.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

In article , Bob Eager
writes
On Fri, 02 May 2014 12:38:09 +0100, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The only good thing about WD40 is that it's easy to get - most
supermarkets will have it. I did use to carry a small one around as a
location sound recordist - ideal for that squeaking garden gate. But I
only needed it to work for a day. ;-)

It's actually not too bad as a switch cleaner.

I used to carry a can in the car. One particular one could be
temperamental on a damp morning. Lifting the bonnet and administering a
dose of WD40 usually did the trick.

However, I am not entirely convinced it was really necessary. I have a
feeling that had I simply gone through the motions and muttered the
magic incantation "WD40" the flooded carb might have sorted itself. I
never did have time to carry out a controlled trial.

It's pretty well the same stuff as those 'damp start' silicone sprays,
isn't it?

If we're talking about the Holts sprays then I think 'Wet Start' was the
WD one and 'Damp Start' was the completely useless varnish type spray
coating that was intended to seal an already dry HT set. Useless as it
cracked in no time short as the rubberised leads and fixings moved.

--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On Friday, May 2, 2014 12:56:18 PM UTC+1, Bob Eager wrote:
On Fri, 02 May 2014 12:38:09 +0100, Chris J Dixon wrote:



Dave Plowman (News) wrote:



The only good thing about WD40 is that it's easy to get - most

supermarkets will have it. I did use to carry a small one around as a

location sound recordist - ideal for that squeaking garden gate. But I

only needed it to work for a day. ;-)



It's actually not too bad as a switch cleaner.



I used to carry a can in the car. One particular one could be

temperamental on a damp morning. Lifting the bonnet and administering a

dose of WD40 usually did the trick.



However, I am not entirely convinced it was really necessary. I have a

feeling that had I simply gone through the motions and muttered the

magic incantation "WD40" the flooded carb might have sorted itself. I

never did have time to carry out a controlled trial.



It's pretty well the same stuff as those 'damp start' silicone sprays,

isn't it?



I can vouch for them. Driving an ancient Land Rover from Dover to

Canterbury on a dark and stormy night, and it just died somewhere nera

Lydden. Pretty sure it was damp, so we all huddled round the open bonnet

to block the wind while I sprayed the leads. Instant success.





--

Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org

My posts (including this one) are my copyright and if @diy_forums on

Twitter wish to tweet them they can pay me £30 a post

*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

The original Minis had their distributor just behind the grille and inevitably they got wet, The quick and dirty answer was to break the fuel feed line to the carb, soak some rag or even paper in petrol, and wipe down the spark leads and distributor cap with that.

On Sat, 03 May 2014 15:13:49 -0700, fred wrote:

On Friday, May 2, 2014 12:56:18 PM UTC+1, Bob Eager wrote:
On Fri, 02 May 2014 12:38:09 +0100, Chris J Dixon wrote:



Dave Plowman (News) wrote:



The only good thing about WD40 is that it's easy to get - most

supermarkets will have it. I did use to carry a small one around as a

location sound recordist - ideal for that squeaking garden gate. But
I

only needed it to work for a day. ;-)



It's actually not too bad as a switch cleaner.



I used to carry a can in the car. One particular one could be

temperamental on a damp morning. Lifting the bonnet and administering
a

dose of WD40 usually did the trick.



However, I am not entirely convinced it was really necessary. I have
a

feeling that had I simply gone through the motions and muttered the

magic incantation "WD40" the flooded carb might have sorted itself. I

never did have time to carry out a controlled trial.



It's pretty well the same stuff as those 'damp start' silicone sprays,

isn't it?



I can vouch for them. Driving an ancient Land Rover from Dover to

Canterbury on a dark and stormy night, and it just died somewhere nera

Lydden. Pretty sure it was damp, so we all huddled round the open
bonnet

to block the wind while I sprayed the leads. Instant success.





--

Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org

My posts (including this one) are my copyright and if @diy_forums on

Twitter wish to tweet them they can pay me £30 a post

*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

The original Minis had their distributor just behind the grille and
inevitably they got wet, The quick and dirty answer was to break the
fuel feed line to the carb, soak some rag or even paper in petrol, and
wipe down the spark leads and distributor cap with that.

Yes, I remember that. It was a design decision made bcause originally
they tried the engine the 'other way round' and the carburettor tended to
ice up!

They didn't like putting the distributor at the front as it meant power
loss in the idler gear used to change the engine output direction to
compensate.



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
My posts (including this one) are my copyright and if @diy_forums on
Twitter wish to tweet them they can pay me £30 a post
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Sat, 03 May 2014 19:24:45 +0100, fred wrote:

In article , Bob Eager
writes
On Fri, 02 May 2014 12:38:09 +0100, Chris J Dixon wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

The only good thing about WD40 is that it's easy to get - most
supermarkets will have it. I did use to carry a small one around as a
location sound recordist - ideal for that squeaking garden gate. But I
only needed it to work for a day. ;-)

It's actually not too bad as a switch cleaner.

I used to carry a can in the car. One particular one could be
temperamental on a damp morning. Lifting the bonnet and administering
a dose of WD40 usually did the trick.

However, I am not entirely convinced it was really necessary. I have a
feeling that had I simply gone through the motions and muttered the
magic incantation "WD40" the flooded carb might have sorted itself. I
never did have time to carry out a controlled trial.

It's pretty well the same stuff as those 'damp start' silicone sprays,
isn't it?

If we're talking about the Holts sprays then I think 'Wet Start' was the
WD one and 'Damp Start' was the completely useless varnish type spray
coating that was intended to seal an already dry HT set. Useless as it
cracked in no time short as the rubberised leads and fixings moved.

In fact the one I used would have been the one from Esso service stations
as I worked in one at the time. So it would have been unlikely to be the
preventative one.

--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
My posts (including this one) are my copyright and if @diy_forums on
Twitter wish to tweet them they can pay me £30 a post
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

wrote in message
...
P Jameson wrote:
Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily
Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.
For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil.

I use a squirt of silicone spray furniture polish.

Owain

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I once went to the local chappie with my Toyota Corolla that had developed
over quite some time a rather funny kind of constant noise under the bonnet
that i just couldn't guess what it was .

He went away and came back with a can of wd40 and sprayed the drive-belt to
the alternator. This straight away horrified me as i believed it was a
lubricant.

The noise disappeared immediately and never came back. What exactly was
going on there?

On 05/05/2014 16:14, P Jameson wrote:
wrote in message
...
P Jameson wrote:
Well I'm well on my way to becoming an ace builder. I' reading the Daily
Mail's *Easy DIY* Supplement. Which features the lovely Sarah Beany.
For instance: On oiling a door hinge. Says to use WD40 or Olive oil.

I use a squirt of silicone spray furniture polish.

Owain

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I once went to the local chappie with my Toyota Corolla that had developed
over quite some time a rather funny kind of constant noise under the bonnet
that i just couldn't guess what it was .

He went away and came back with a can of wd40 and sprayed the drive-belt to
the alternator. This straight away horrified me as i believed it was a
lubricant.

The noise disappeared immediately and never came back. What exactly was
going on there?


In the days when alternators were driven by cloth reinforced single "V"
belts, (rather than toothed belts or "multi V") wear on the pulley/belt
could cause the belt to drop too far down in the pulley, there was then
a very characteristic noise as the belt was pulled up out of the groove
as it comes off the pulley. A local mechanic to me used to use just a
smear of oil off the dipstick - enough to stop the noise but not cause
slipping. The real solution was a new belt - but this was a temporary
(and cheap) fix

I suspect yours was a variation of this.

--
Chris