After the outside loo - which was really space stolen from the corner of my tiny 7'6" x 7'6" 1920s kitchen - was taken out I asked for as big as poss. a window in the resulting West facing wall. The casement window installed is too big, with less than 6" between the left hand of the frame and the returning wall.

10 years on I want to re-make the kitchen and ideally reduce the width of the window as it looks dodgy and extends behind where I want to hang a wall unit. The wall it is set in is brick cavity. I only want to reduce the width by about 9" and hopefully keep the frame, shortening the width and installing a smaller glazing unit.

Wondering whether to extend each leaf by one brick - tied to existing stub with metal brick housing channels - or just build a solid pier to fill the gap. Beacause everything is so close to the corner I don't think toothing in a course of bricks is practicable. How to attach this bit? And if I extend the two leaves how to close the cavity?

Thanks for any suggestions,

Peter

On 04/04/14 21:44, Peter wrote:
After the outside loo - which was really space stolen from the corner
of my tiny 7'6" x 7'6" 1920s kitchen - was taken out I asked for as
big as poss. a window in the resulting West facing wall. The casement
window installed is too big, with less than 6" between the left hand
of the frame and the returning wall.

10 years on I want to re-make the kitchen and ideally reduce the
width of the window as it looks dodgy and extends behind where I want
to hang a wall unit. The wall it is set in is brick cavity. I only
want to reduce the width by about 9" and hopefully keep the frame,
shortening the width and installing a smaller glazing unit.

Wondering whether to extend each leaf by one brick - tied to existing
stub with metal brick housing channels - or just build a solid pier
to fill the gap. Beacause everything is so close to the corner I
don't think toothing in a course of bricks is practicable. How to
attach this bit? And if I extend the two leaves how to close the
cavity?


I've done this - on a window opening with a half brick reduction in width.

Get a packet of galvanised resin anchors, a tube of Screwfix NoNonsense
resin and a blow tube (tube with a little pump or lashed to a bicycle pump).

Following resin anchor instructions, drill hole in the centre of each
brick course. Use blow tube to blow *all* the dust out of the hole
(important!).

Inject resin, insert anchor stud, ensuring it sits horizontal. Repeat
until all courses are done.


Leave for a day and build brick "pillar" to infill the gap. The studs
will be incorporated into the mortar courses and will stitch the bond
very solidly.

This will sort you out:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-380ml/33554

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-a4...ck-of-10/51408

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-resin-pump/21142

On 05/04/2014 08:19, Tim Watts wrote:
On 04/04/14 21:44, Peter wrote:
After the outside loo - which was really space stolen from the corner
of my tiny 7'6" x 7'6" 1920s kitchen - was taken out I asked for as
big as poss. a window in the resulting West facing wall. The casement
window installed is too big, with less than 6" between the left hand
of the frame and the returning wall.

10 years on I want to re-make the kitchen and ideally reduce the
width of the window as it looks dodgy and extends behind where I want
to hang a wall unit. The wall it is set in is brick cavity. I only
want to reduce the width by about 9" and hopefully keep the frame,
shortening the width and installing a smaller glazing unit.

Wondering whether to extend each leaf by one brick - tied to existing
stub with metal brick housing channels - or just build a solid pier
to fill the gap. Beacause everything is so close to the corner I
don't think toothing in a course of bricks is practicable. How to
attach this bit? And if I extend the two leaves how to close the
cavity?


I've done this - on a window opening with a half brick reduction in width.

Get a packet of galvanised resin anchors, a tube of Screwfix NoNonsense
resin and a blow tube (tube with a little pump or lashed to a bicycle
pump).

Following resin anchor instructions, drill hole in the centre of each
brick course. Use blow tube to blow *all* the dust out of the hole
(important!).

Inject resin, insert anchor stud, ensuring it sits horizontal. Repeat
until all courses are done.


Leave for a day and build brick "pillar" to infill the gap. The studs
will be incorporated into the mortar courses and will stitch the bond
very solidly.

This will sort you out:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-380ml/33554

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-a4...ck-of-10/51408


http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-resin-pump/21142

Blimey, £18 for a resin pump? Couldn't the the vacuum cleaner clear the
dust from the holes?

On 05/04/14 08:30, stuart noble wrote:

Blimey, £18 for a resin pump? Couldn't the the vacuum cleaner clear the
dust from the holes?

No. You really do need a sharp puff of dry air[1] to clear it. If you
dont the resin will bond to a layer of dust and not the substrate.

[1] You can't get a good sharp puff with breath either. I vacuum my
resin holes to get the worst of the dust out but the pump still
dislodges quite a bit more.

I did say "bicycle pump" and a pit of tube would probably also work -
but is it worth the effort?

On 04 Apr 2014, Peter grunted:

After the outside loo - which was really space stolen from the corner
of my tiny 7'6" x 7'6" 1920s kitchen - was taken out I asked for as
big as poss. a window in the resulting West facing wall. The casement
window installed is too big, with less than 6" between the left hand
of the frame and the returning wall.

10 years on I want to re-make the kitchen and ideally reduce the width
of the window as it looks dodgy and extends behind where I want to
hang a wall unit. The wall it is set in is brick cavity. I only want
to reduce the width by about 9" and hopefully keep the frame,
shortening the width and installing a smaller glazing unit.

Wondering whether to extend each leaf by one brick - tied to existing
stub with metal brick housing channels - or just build a solid pier to
fill the gap. Beacause everything is so close to the corner I don't
think toothing in a course of bricks is practicable. How to attach
this bit? And if I extend the two leaves how to close the cavity?

Not sure why toothing in the new bricks isn't possible: if you don't, isn't
it going to look really... yucky?, apart from any structural
considerations?

If you want to build a single solid pier, I've used screw ties for bricking
up doorways before; very easy to do:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-ties-pack-of-25/31633
You drill the existing bricks at an angle, and as you build up the new pier
you screw in the ties, and then bend the protruding part parallel to the
ground and it gets embedded in the mortar between the new courses of brick,
reinforcing the vertical joint between old and new.

--
David

On 05/04/2014 10:01, Lobster wrote:
On 04 Apr 2014, grunted:

After the outside loo - which was really space stolen from the corner
of my tiny 7'6" x 7'6" 1920s kitchen - was taken out I asked for as
big as poss. a window in the resulting West facing wall. The casement
window installed is too big, with less than 6" between the left hand
of the frame and the returning wall.

10 years on I want to re-make the kitchen and ideally reduce the width
of the window as it looks dodgy and extends behind where I want to
hang a wall unit. The wall it is set in is brick cavity. I only want
to reduce the width by about 9" and hopefully keep the frame,
shortening the width and installing a smaller glazing unit.

Wondering whether to extend each leaf by one brick - tied to existing
stub with metal brick housing channels - or just build a solid pier to
fill the gap. Beacause everything is so close to the corner I don't
think toothing in a course of bricks is practicable. How to attach
this bit? And if I extend the two leaves how to close the cavity?

Not sure why toothing in the new bricks isn't possible: if you don't, isn't
it going to look really... yucky?, apart from any structural
considerations?

If you want to build a single solid pier, I've used screw ties for bricking
up doorways before; very easy to do:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-ties-pack-of-25/31633
You drill the existing bricks at an angle, and as you build up the new pier
you screw in the ties, and then bend the protruding part parallel to the
ground and it gets embedded in the mortar between the new courses of brick,
reinforcing the vertical joint between old and new.

"I vacuum my resin holes to get the worst of the dust out but the pump
still dislodges quite a bit more. "

Would it be worth flushing out with water from a hose.

In article , ss
writes
On 05/04/2014 10:01, Lobster wrote:

"I vacuum my resin holes to get the worst of the dust out but the pump
still dislodges quite a bit more. "

Would it be worth flushing out with water from a hose.

No, the resin would not bond correctly to a wet surface.

Whilst dry air is ideal I have done plenty of these using my lungs to
blow out the dust with a large bore bendy[1] drinking straw and have
been happy with the results.

[1] Bent at right angles to avoid blowing a whole passel of brick dust
back in your face
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On 05/04/2014 08:30, stuart noble wrote:
On 05/04/2014 08:19, Tim Watts wrote:
On 04/04/14 21:44, Peter wrote:
After the outside loo - which was really space stolen from the corner
of my tiny 7'6" x 7'6" 1920s kitchen - was taken out I asked for as
big as poss. a window in the resulting West facing wall. The casement
window installed is too big, with less than 6" between the left hand
of the frame and the returning wall.

10 years on I want to re-make the kitchen and ideally reduce the
width of the window as it looks dodgy and extends behind where I want
to hang a wall unit. The wall it is set in is brick cavity. I only
want to reduce the width by about 9" and hopefully keep the frame,
shortening the width and installing a smaller glazing unit.

Wondering whether to extend each leaf by one brick - tied to existing
stub with metal brick housing channels - or just build a solid pier
to fill the gap. Beacause everything is so close to the corner I
don't think toothing in a course of bricks is practicable. How to
attach this bit? And if I extend the two leaves how to close the
cavity?


I've done this - on a window opening with a half brick reduction in
width.

Get a packet of galvanised resin anchors, a tube of Screwfix NoNonsense
resin and a blow tube (tube with a little pump or lashed to a bicycle
pump).

Following resin anchor instructions, drill hole in the centre of each
brick course. Use blow tube to blow *all* the dust out of the hole
(important!).

Inject resin, insert anchor stud, ensuring it sits horizontal. Repeat
until all courses are done.


Leave for a day and build brick "pillar" to infill the gap. The studs
will be incorporated into the mortar courses and will stitch the bond
very solidly.

This will sort you out:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...in-380ml/33554

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-a4...ck-of-10/51408



http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-resin-pump/21142

Blimey, £18 for a resin pump? Couldn't the the vacuum cleaner clear the
dust from the holes?
Criminal huh? Tool station do one for about 7/8 quid though.

On Sat, 05 Apr 2014 08:30:15 +0100, stuart noble wrote:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-resin-pump/21142

Blimey, £18 for a resin pump? Couldn't the the vacuum cleaner clear the
dust from the holes?

I've an old bike pump for which I made a connector with nylon tube.
Replacement/original connectors (back in the '70s - 80s, before I started
using push-on pumps) often had polythene tube and tended to go bang at 5
bar+.
When the old type of connector became redundant I cut of the tube-end's
connector and now have a 5mm OD tube that would clear out any hole
(constipated large mammals excepted!).
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway

On 05/04/14 10:08, ss wrote:
"I vacuum my resin holes to get the worst of the dust out but the pump
still dislodges quite a bit more. "

Would it be worth flushing out with water from a hose.

Fischer's instructions (theirs was the first resin I used) where very
clear. I've always done that and it's always worked

On 05/04/2014 08:19, Tim Watts wrote:

The studs
will be incorporated into the mortar courses and will stitch the bond
very solidly.


Would you care to elaborate on that? Seems to me that, if you fit the
anchors half way up each course, they'll get in the way of the new
bricks - and won't be in the mortar course anyway. Am I misunderstanding
what you said?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 05/04/2014 08:30, stuart noble wrote:


Blimey, £18 for a resin pump? Couldn't the the vacuum cleaner clear the
dust from the holes?

I assume that, if you have a compressor, you could blow the dust out
with that?

Does the official £18 pump blow or suck?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 05/04/14 19:37, Roger Mills wrote:
On 05/04/2014 08:19, Tim Watts wrote:

The studs
will be incorporated into the mortar courses and will stitch the bond
very solidly.


Would you care to elaborate on that? Seems to me that, if you fit the
anchors half way up each course, they'll get in the way of the new
bricks - and won't be in the mortar course anyway. Am I misunderstanding
what you said?

Half way front-back wise and *in* the mortar course.

On 05/04/14 19:39, Roger Mills wrote:
On 05/04/2014 08:30, stuart noble wrote:


Blimey, £18 for a resin pump? Couldn't the the vacuum cleaner clear the
dust from the holes?

I assume that, if you have a compressor, you could blow the dust out
with that?

That would be ideal - the sort of *puff* you get would kick butt.

Does the official £18 pump blow or suck?

Blow - but it can deliver a very sharp puff - hint, do not look into the
hole the first time you hit the end of the pump - it hurts!

On 05/04/2014 19:52, Tim Watts wrote:
On 05/04/14 19:39, Roger Mills wrote:
On 05/04/2014 08:30, stuart noble wrote:


Blimey, £18 for a resin pump? Couldn't the the vacuum cleaner clear the
dust from the holes?

I assume that, if you have a compressor, you could blow the dust out
with that?

That would be ideal - the sort of *puff* you get would kick butt.

Does the official £18 pump blow or suck?

Blow - but it can deliver a very sharp puff - hint, do not look into the
hole the first time you hit the end of the pump - it hurts!

Does it do more than, for example, one of the canned "air" dusting cans
might achieve?

--
Rod

On 05/04/14 20:03, polygonum wrote:

Does it do more than, for example, one of the canned "air" dusting cans
might achieve?


Decent canned air would work I reckon.

On 05/04/2014 19:50, Tim Watts wrote:
On 05/04/14 19:37, Roger Mills wrote:
On 05/04/2014 08:19, Tim Watts wrote:

The studs
will be incorporated into the mortar courses and will stitch the bond
very solidly.


Would you care to elaborate on that? Seems to me that, if you fit the
anchors half way up each course, they'll get in the way of the new
bricks - and won't be in the mortar course anyway. Am I misunderstanding
what you said?

Half way front-back wise and *in* the mortar course.



Ah, I see! But isn't the resin stuff designed for holding the anchors in
solid brick rather than crumbly mortar?
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 06/04/14 11:53, Roger Mills wrote:
On 05/04/2014 19:50, Tim Watts wrote:
On 05/04/14 19:37, Roger Mills wrote:
On 05/04/2014 08:19, Tim Watts wrote:

The studs
will be incorporated into the mortar courses and will stitch the bond
very solidly.


Would you care to elaborate on that? Seems to me that, if you fit the
anchors half way up each course, they'll get in the way of the new
bricks - and won't be in the mortar course anyway. Am I misunderstanding
what you said?

Half way front-back wise and *in* the mortar course.



Ah, I see! But isn't the resin stuff designed for holding the anchors in
solid brick rather than crumbly mortar?

It works very well in most substrates - including celcon blocks that
make crumbly mortar seem substantial.

In this application we are not looking to resist much pulling force, but
more lateral forces. And the OP will using over half a dozen anchors.

On Friday, April 4, 2014 9:44:43 PM UTC+1, Peter wrote:
After the outside loo - which was really space stolen from the corner of my tiny 7'6" x 7'6" 1920s kitchen - was taken out I asked for as big as poss. a window in the resulting West facing wall. The casement window installed is too big, with less than 6" between the left hand of the frame and the returning wall.



10 years on I want to re-make the kitchen and ideally reduce the width of the window as it looks dodgy and extends behind where I want to hang a wall unit. The wall it is set in is brick cavity. I only want to reduce the width by about 9" and hopefully keep the frame, shortening the width and installing a smaller glazing unit.



Wondering whether to extend each leaf by one brick - tied to existing stub with metal brick housing channels - or just build a solid pier to fill the gap. Beacause everything is so close to the corner I don't think toothing in a course of bricks is practicable. How to attach this bit? And if I extend the two leaves how to close the cavity?



Thanks for any suggestions,



Peter

Thanks for all that - I had not considered setting studs in resin, however that does mean drilling into mortar courses rather than solid brick. I like the simplicity of David's screw tie at an angle through the brick idea.

Aside from that, should I be thinking of two one-brick length leaves and then a closer, or just building a soild pir across the cavity? In either case the outside is rendered so appearance should not be a problem - just want the thing to stay put.

Peter