most elec hobs are hard wired to HD cooker switches not plugs so if one wanted an elec hob in, say, a wheeled island unit feature, how/with what would one wire it so it's "unpluggable" if the island were to be moved around?

is it even allowed?

Jim K

"Jim K" wrote in message
...
most elec hobs are hard wired to HD cooker switches not plugs so if one
wanted an elec hob in, say, a wheeled island unit feature, how/with what
would one wire it so it's "unpluggable" if the island were to be moved
around?

is it even allowed?



SY or YY cable. And a 32A socket and plug!
--
Adam

In article ,
Jim K wrote:
most elec hobs are hard wired to HD cooker switches not plugs so if one
wanted an elec hob in, say, a wheeled island unit feature, how/with what
would one wire it so it's "unpluggable" if the island were to be moved
around?

is it even allowed?

Jim K

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...v_1/index.html

--
*HOW IS IT POSSIBLE TO HAVE A CIVIL WAR?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sunday, 23 February 2014 12:11:07 UTC, wrote:
"Jim K" wrote in message

...

most elec hobs are hard wired to HD cooker switches not plugs so if one

wanted an elec hob in, say, a wheeled island unit feature, how/with what

would one wire it so it's "unpluggable" if the island were to be moved

around?



is it even allowed?







SY or YY cable. And a 32A socket and plug!

--

Adam

aha!

....goggles...

mmm bulkyyyy... anything neater? mainly the socket would be a pain, i envisaged the socket being floor mounted under the usual position of the island (to avoid trip hazard etc), when unplugged & the island out of the way, the bulky floor mounted socket things I've seen would look **** & be a mega trip hazard...

any "flush when closed/out of use" options for the socket?

tia

Jim K

I have this weird mental image of a hob built into an old fashioned bumper
car as we used to see in fairgrounds, taking its supply from a metal floor
and a mesh above head height.. chuckle.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Jim K" wrote in message
...
most elec hobs are hard wired to HD cooker switches not plugs so if one
wanted an elec hob in, say, a wheeled island unit feature, how/with what
would one wire it so it's "unpluggable" if the island were to be moved
around?

is it even allowed?

Jim K

In article ,
Jim K wrote:
mmm bulkyyyy... anything neater? mainly the socket would be a pain, i
envisaged the socket being floor mounted under the usual position of the
island (to avoid trip hazard etc), when unplugged & the island out of
the way, the bulky floor mounted socket things I've seen would look ****
& be a mega trip hazard...

any "flush when closed/out of use" options for the socket?

No reason why you shouldn't split the hob into two (or more) circuits and
use two (or more) 13 amp supplies?

--
*Procrastination is the art of keeping up with yesterday.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On 23/02/2014 15:10, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Jim K wrote:
mmm bulkyyyy... anything neater? mainly the socket would be a pain, i
envisaged the socket being floor mounted under the usual position of the
island (to avoid trip hazard etc), when unplugged & the island out of
the way, the bulky floor mounted socket things I've seen would look ****
& be a mega trip hazard...

any "flush when closed/out of use" options for the socket?

No reason why you shouldn't split the hob into two (or more) circuits and
use two (or more) 13 amp supplies?


We used to have a Philips hob of uncertain provenance which had the
option to be wired like this, two rings on each of the 15A supplies. It
was supplied with the separate inputs commoned with hefty copper links -
but I guess if it was made like that there must have been a market where
it was needed?

Jim K wrote:


any "flush when closed/out of use" options for the socket?

Just a normal flush multipurpose floor box.

Bill

In article ,
Lee writes:
On 23/02/2014 15:10, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Jim K wrote:
mmm bulkyyyy... anything neater? mainly the socket would be a pain, i
envisaged the socket being floor mounted under the usual position of the
island (to avoid trip hazard etc), when unplugged & the island out of
the way, the bulky floor mounted socket things I've seen would look ****
& be a mega trip hazard...

any "flush when closed/out of use" options for the socket?

No reason why you shouldn't split the hob into two (or more) circuits and
use two (or more) 13 amp supplies?


We used to have a Philips hob of uncertain provenance which had the
option to be wired like this, two rings on each of the 15A supplies. It
was supplied with the separate inputs commoned with hefty copper links -
but I guess if it was made like that there must have been a market where
it was needed?

In some other EU countries, they have to be supplied from multiple
phases, as you can't draw enough current on one phase. You can't
use this feature to attach two supply leads, as the circuits are not
isolated from each other.

Use a BS4343/IEC 309 connector recessed below the floor, with a small
trap door for access. They are commonly used in commercial kitchens.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Sunday, February 23, 2014 1:49:38 PM UTC, Brian Gaff wrote:
"Jim K" wrote in message
...

most elec hobs are hard wired to HD cooker switches not plugs so if one
wanted an elec hob in, say, a wheeled island unit feature, how/with what
would one wire it so it's "unpluggable" if the island were to be moved
around?

is it even allowed?

I have this weird mental image of a hob built into an old fashioned bumper
car as we used to see in fairgrounds, taking its supply from a metal floor
and a mesh above head height.. chuckle.
Brian

It certainly would be different. With it only being practical to get 2 connections that way, one moment of good live bad neutral & you'd be in trouble. Double insulated doesnt quite cut it when you've got water sloshing around.

Anyone else used those abominable live wire element hobs? Just a ceramic tray with a bare wire element in it.

Overhead sockets aren't out of the question if the aesthetic can be made ok - but that's a challenge.


NT

In article ,
writes:
Anyone else used those abominable live wire element hobs? Just a ceramic tray with a bare wire element in it.

I have one, a Mysto Fire. Google used to be able to find a picture
of it, but it can't anymore.

My dad used it when he was a student or in digs for his first job.

It may have belonged to his parents.

I fired it up a few times for amusement - still works fine.
Would have trouble with the IP2X test on a PAT test ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
writes:
Anyone else used those abominable live wire element hobs? Just a ceramic tray with a bare wire element in it.

I have one, a Mysto Fire. Google used to be able to find a picture
of it, but it can't anymore.

My dad used it when he was a student or in digs for his first job.

It may have belonged to his parents.

I fired it up a few times for amusement - still works fine.
Would have trouble with the IP2X test on a PAT test ;-)

It was once (may still be) possible to buy replacement coiled
elements for radiant fires. You simply removed the failed one,
used a piece of string to measure the length and stretched the
new one to suit.

My dad told me that in his college days (1930s) they heated a
room by simply suspending such an element from the mantelpiece.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Plant amazing Acers.