Which is the best choice for ordinary domestic downlighters - GU10 (240V) style or MR16 (12V & requiring a transformer)?

Beam angles vary a lot. So the basic choice seems to be between lots of fairly closely spaced narrow angle lower powered units or more widely spaced but higher power units. What is usually preferred?

TIA for any help experience.

wrote in message
...
Which is the best choice for ordinary domestic downlighters - GU10 (240V)
style or MR16 (12V & requiring a transformer)?

Beam angles vary a lot. So the basic choice seems to be between lots of
fairly closely spaced narrow angle lower powered units or more widely
spaced but higher power units. What is usually preferred?

TIA for any help experience.

With the higher power 240v LEDs, you need to ensure the lampholders allow
cooling air to rise past the lamp. The sort that can be swivelled have the
necessary space.
See my reply to 'uncle jim' above.

Jim Hawkins

On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 03:40:07 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Which is the best choice for ordinary domestic downlighters - GU10 (240V) style or MR16 (12V & requiring a transformer)?

Beam angles vary a lot. So the basic choice seems to be between lots of fairly closely spaced narrow angle lower powered units or more widely spaced but higher power units. What is usually preferred?

TIA for any help experience.

When it comes to ceiling mounted downlighters, the choice is very
clear. None! Whoever decided to 'expand the market' for lamps that had
been optimised for shop window displays should be strung up as an
example to other like minded idiots (such as that pair in Intel's R&D
department responsibe to promulgating USB, an interface designed
specifically to boost CPU sales).

Spot lights have their uses but GLS in fixed ceiling mounts is most
definitely not one of them.


Having stated my view, if you've been 'rail roaded' into fitting such
lighting, you'd be well advised to use 12v lamps with "transformers"
unless you like demonstrating your lamp changing prowess on a 2 or 3
month basis.
--
Regards, J B Good

Johny B Good wrote:
On Wed, 12 Feb 2014 03:40:07 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

Which is the best choice for ordinary domestic downlighters - GU10 (240V) style or MR16 (12V & requiring a transformer)?

Beam angles vary a lot. So the basic choice seems to be between lots of fairly closely spaced narrow angle lower powered units or more widely spaced but higher power units. What is usually preferred?

TIA for any help experience.

When it comes to ceiling mounted downlighters, the choice is very
clear. None! Whoever decided to 'expand the market' for lamps that had
been optimised for shop window displays should be strung up as an
example to other like minded idiots (such as that pair in Intel's R&D
department responsibe to promulgating USB, an interface designed
specifically to boost CPU sales).

Spot lights have their uses but GLS in fixed ceiling mounts is most
definitely not one of them.

"Fixed"? Not necessarily. Those in our bathroom are flush-mounted in the
ceiling but can be tilted and swivelled.

Having stated my view, if you've been 'rail roaded' into fitting such
lighting, you'd be well advised to use 12v lamps with "transformers"
unless you like demonstrating your lamp changing prowess on a 2 or 3
month basis.

FWIW we had six 240V halogen downlighters installed in 2004. In those
ten years, there have been only two failures.

--
Mike Barnes

Mike Barnes wrote:

FWIW we had six 240V halogen downlighters installed in 2004. In those
ten years, there have been only two failures.


Your mains voltage must be low. I had a pendant with ten 240V halogens.
We had so many failures I ripped the bloody thing out after six months
and fitted something else.

Bill

Bill Wright wrote:
Mike Barnes wrote:

FWIW we had six 240V halogen downlighters installed in 2004. In those
ten years, there have been only two failures.

Your mains voltage must be low. I had a pendant with ten 240V halogens.
We had so many failures I ripped the bloody thing out after six months
and fitted something else.

Interestingly in the days before CFLs, I was replacing roughly one bulb
a week, which I put down to *high* mains voltage (and the sheer number
of bulbs: about 50). I've just plugged a mains monitor in and it says
246.3V.

The downlighters are on a dimmer switch. As it happens the dimmer
normally stays on maximum and is clicked on/off in the normal way, but I
wonder if somehow the dimmer circuitry provides a soft start. It would
be good if it did.

--
Mike Barnes

In article ,
writes:
Which is the best choice for ordinary domestic downlighters - GU10 (240V) style or MR16 (12V & requiring a transformer)?

240V GU10. Much better range of LED products available.
As another poster said, try to get fittings which are well ventilated,
although that might conflict with needing a fireproof ceiling.

There are also dedicated LEDs (not GU10 or MR16 retrofits). These are
much more expensive, but come in higher power ratings, although you
probably don't need higher power ratings for this application. They
may be your only option if you need a fireproof ceiling.

Beam angles vary a lot. So the basic choice seems to be between lots of fairly closely spaced narrow angle lower powered units or more widely spaced but higher power units. What is usually preferred?

They will be good for task lighting such as worktops (more will reduce
shadows), but they are useless for general lighting - design something
else to provide the general background lighting in the room.

--
Andrew Gabriel
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