SWMBO'd wants a good, bright, daylight quality, light source for
doing needlework. This is to fit into a magnifier angle poise type
lamp with E27 base with not much more space than a normal GLS takes.

I've pointed her at seeing how the bog standard CFL's we have or a
3000 K LED stand up. She couldn't really detect any difference in the
colour rendering(*), light level was the main complaint, not enough.
I was thinking the best bet would be one of those "daylight" (aka
blue tinted) 60 W tungsten GLS bulbs but she has
found:

http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/t2-...y-saver-20w-es
/p3334/

Reasonable level but are the claims about colour likely to be
accurate? I'm not sure what the "Finish 865 - Daylight" means in the
spec list. Is that related to the three digit number that has
something to do with colour temp and/or CRI?

(*) They look very different through a basic spectroscope. The LED is
amorphous from red to green a small gap then a blue/purple band. The
CFLs have 4 distinct bands red orange green purple.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
Dave Liquorice wrote:
I've pointed her at seeing how the bog standard CFL's we have or a
3000 K LED stand up. She couldn't really detect any difference in the
colour rendering(*), light level was the main complaint, not enough.
I was thinking the best bet would be one of those "daylight" (aka
blue tinted) 60 W tungsten GLS bulbs

Those reduce the level as they get 'daylight' by filtering out some of the
red.

I have a 100watt halogen in my workbench anglepoise. Gives excellent light
quality and plenty of it. If I could get something as good in all respects
- but cooler running - I'd happily pay quite a bit for one.

--
*White with a hint of M42*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
SWMBO'd wants a good, bright, daylight quality, light source for
doing needlework. This is to fit into a magnifier angle poise type
lamp with E27 base with not much more space than a normal GLS takes.

I've pointed her at seeing how the bog standard CFL's we have or a
3000 K LED stand up. She couldn't really detect any difference in the
colour rendering(*), light level was the main complaint, not enough.
I was thinking the best bet would be one of those "daylight" (aka
blue tinted) 60 W tungsten GLS bulbs but she has
found:

http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/t2-...y-saver-20w-es
/p3334/

I attempted to use a 30W version of same and found it to be headache
inducingly blue, replaced it with a 25W 2700K version and found it far
more acceptable, didn't seem that 'warm' but I hear what you say about
colour rendering.

Here's the 30W one I sourced (same mfr):

http://cpc.farnell.com/LP0279403

Markedly cheaper than your example but sadly they're not doing 20W in ES
at the mo.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

I notice a lot of companies selling to those with sight problems sell task
lights it might be interesting to look at some. R NIB have some but there
are others about.
Brian

--
From the Sofa of Brian Gaff Reply address is active
"Dave Liquorice" wrote in message
ll.co.uk...
SWMBO'd wants a good, bright, daylight quality, light source for
doing needlework. This is to fit into a magnifier angle poise type
lamp with E27 base with not much more space than a normal GLS takes.

I've pointed her at seeing how the bog standard CFL's we have or a
3000 K LED stand up. She couldn't really detect any difference in the
colour rendering(*), light level was the main complaint, not enough.
I was thinking the best bet would be one of those "daylight" (aka
blue tinted) 60 W tungsten GLS bulbs but she has
found:

http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/t2-...y-saver-20w-es
/p3334/

Reasonable level but are the claims about colour likely to be
accurate? I'm not sure what the "Finish 865 - Daylight" means in the
spec list. Is that related to the three digit number that has
something to do with colour temp and/or CRI?

(*) They look very different through a basic spectroscope. The LED is
amorphous from red to green a small gap then a blue/purple band. The
CFLs have 4 distinct bands red orange green purple.

--
Cheers
Dave.

In article o.uk,
"Dave Liquorice" writes:
SWMBO'd wants a good, bright, daylight quality, light source for

"Daylight" has a whole swathe of different properties which she
might be after, including the sweeping property of being different
from whatever artificial light happens to be in use at the moment.

doing needlework. This is to fit into a magnifier angle poise type
lamp with E27 base with not much more space than a normal GLS takes.

That's going to be a challenge.

I've pointed her at seeing how the bog standard CFL's we have or a
3000 K LED stand up. She couldn't really detect any difference in the
colour rendering(*), light level was the main complaint, not enough.

Can the fitting take an R80 spot/flood lamp (and is the lamp
orientated to emit light from the end or the side of the bulb)?
(The magnifier angle poise I'm familiar with uses a circular
fluorescent, but they aren't very bright.)

The 23W GE Genura is the only CFL which is similar size to the 100W
R80 reflector lamp it replaces, and generates slightly more light
output than a 100W R80. It comes in 3000k and 3500k.
It's damn expensive though. It's the only viable CFL reflector lamp,
as the spiral/folded tube types perform poorly unless the reflector
is many times the size of the tube. This is where LEDs can win out.

GLS LEDs are up to around 75W equivalent, but mostly emit light
in all directions. There are Chinese manufacturers who are producing
products with more directed light, e.g to one side or even crown
silver replacements, but you have to search these out from importers.
LED lights are not always pleasent to work near, due to their intense
point sources - if it's ever in your field of view, look for one with
a diffuser.

I was thinking the best bet would be one of those "daylight" (aka
blue tinted) 60 W tungsten GLS bulbs but she has
found:

http://www.lightbulbs-direct.com/t2-...y-saver-20w-es
/p3334/

Reasonable level but are the claims about colour likely to be
accurate? I'm not sure what the "Finish 865 - Daylight" means in the
spec list. Is that related to the three digit number that has
something to do with colour temp and/or CRI?

865 means colour rendering of between 80 and 89 (usually nearer
80), and a colour temperature of 6500k, which is a blue-white,
which won't render red colours very well unless you get the light
level up to midday sun levels (ie. using loads of the lamps).

It may be a little brighter than a 3000K CFL of the same power
rating, but not by a large amount.

I would avoid going above 4000K.

(*) They look very different through a basic spectroscope. The LED is
amorphous from red to green a small gap then a blue/purple band. The
CFLs have 4 distinct bands red orange green purple.

LEDs are pure blue, and use phosphors to generate the other colours.
Fluorescents are mostly UV, with usually 3 phosphor colours to generate
proportions of red, green, and blue. The purple comes from several
weaker visible mercury lines in the discharge. Specialist higher colour
rendering tubes (CRI = 90) usually use more phosphors to fill in more
of the spectrum, but are more expensive and very hard to find.

In my electronics work area where I also want lots of light, I have a
twin 5' fluorescent fitting with highly polished reflector, hanging 3'
above the work surface (and I occasionally bang my head on it;-).
It's a bog-standard office fitting with electronic control gear.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 28/01/2014 15:07, fred wrote:


Markedly cheaper than your example but sadly they're not doing 20W in ES
at the mo.

My experience of Pro-lite daylight bulbs

http://www.admac.myzen.co.uk/bulb

I found the light to be good for reading but in less than a year they go
"bang".


--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On Tuesday 28 January 2014 22:11 alan wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On 28/01/2014 15:07, fred wrote:


Markedly cheaper than your example but sadly they're not doing 20W in
ES at the mo.

My experience of Pro-lite daylight bulbs

http://www.admac.myzen.co.uk/bulb

I found the light to be good for reading but in less than a year they
go "bang".



I have had a couple ProLites (from lots) burning continuously (24/7/52)
for about 2 years.

Others have lasted longer with less duty cycle. I have not had one do
that (the tubes go). These are the 25 and 30W ones.

Unlucky with a sample of one?

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal
coverage

In article ,
Tim Watts writes:
I have had a couple ProLites (from lots) burning continuously (24/7/52)
for about 2 years.

Others have lasted longer with less duty cycle. I have not had one do
that (the tubes go). These are the 25 and 30W ones.

Unlucky with a sample of one?

I found them generally poor. Parents had a pair of spotlights, a bit
like crown silver spots except the crown was part of the fitting so
they took standard clear GLS. The only CFLs which fitted were some
prolites, but life was very short. Eventually, we ended up with a
couple in there which lasted ~3 years (until recently decommissioned),
but most only lasted a few months. CPC stopped doing them.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Wednesday 29 January 2014 10:27 Andrew Gabriel wrote in uk.d-i-y:

In article ,
Tim Watts writes:
I have had a couple ProLites (from lots) burning continuously
(24/7/52) for about 2 years.

Others have lasted longer with less duty cycle. I have not had one do
that (the tubes go). These are the 25 and 30W ones.

Unlucky with a sample of one?

I found them generally poor. Parents had a pair of spotlights, a bit
like crown silver spots except the crown was part of the fitting so
they took standard clear GLS. The only CFLs which fitted were some
prolites, but life was very short. Eventually, we ended up with a
couple in there which lasted ~3 years (until recently decommissioned),
but most only lasted a few months. CPC stopped doing them.


Mine have been in open fittings or on pendants. I think we now have a
reason why our experiences are vastly different (overheating).

I used them a lot for temporary site lighting in bits o fthe house
before the room was finished - for that they were pretty good.
--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal
coverage

On Tue, 28 Jan 2014 15:55:26 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

This is to fit into a magnifier angle poise type lamp with E27
base
with not much more space than a normal GLS takes.

That's going to be a challenge.

Certainly for the higher power CFL's, think I'll give them a miss.

Can the fitting take an R80 spot/flood lamp (and is the lamp
orientated to emit light from the end or the side of the bulb)?
(The magnifier angle poise I'm familiar with uses a circular
fluorescent, but they aren't very bright.)

Side of a normal GLS bulb, similar to this but up to 60
W:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Lloytron-L11...-Hobby/dp/B005
H9XA7Y

So reflectors are out. It does appear to more of level thing than
"daylight". Might see if I can get a 100 W equivalent "GLS" halogen,
that ought to be about 60 W in reality but I bet I get complaints
about the heat...

LED ought to be able to fit the space available but getting the
required light level is probably still a challange for them.

865 means colour rendering of between 80 and 89 (usually nearer
80), and a colour temperature of 6500k, which is a blue-white,
which won't render red colours very well unless you get the light
level up to midday sun levels (ie. using loads of the lamps).

Ta, I'll try and remember that.

--
Cheers
Dave.