Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)

I wish I could do something like that...

Bill

On 03/01/14 01:37, John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)

Very nice work, thanks for writing it up.

On 03/01/2014 01:37, John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)



Nice work Norm :-)


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 03/01/2014 09:47, Huge wrote:
On 2014-01-03, John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

I'm deeply impressed. And slightly embarrassed that all I did over Xmas was
lay about. Oh, I did do *some* woodwork - I pruned the apple trees.

And I now know how non-techies must feel when we talk about computer stuff
since a significant proportion of the description is incomprehensible to
me. )



Nice job! My only concern would be the true moisture content of the
timber. I learnt the hard way not to trust the estimates given by
merchants. Furniture stuff should ideally be 10%-12% but IIRC American
hardwoods were pretty reliable in that respect. By contrast, locally
sourced material was often described as "nice and dry" :-)

John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)



Looks very good indeed John.
Did you glue along the full length of the stretcher tenons?
I wonder about movement tending to split the stretchers especially as
they are 'pre-weakened' by the decorative clamping holes?
Hopefully not but should be out of direct gaze of all but other woodworkers.
Happy New Year and thanks for your advice during the past year.
Bob

In message , John
Rumm writes
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)

Excellent work. Did it get the important domestic seal of approval?

I use the band saw for tenons as you can easily work to a clamped stop.
I also have a Wadkin pullover saw which is easier for repetitive
clearing cuts.

--
Tim Lamb

On 03/01/2014 09:47, Huge wrote:
On 2014-01-03, John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

I'm deeply impressed. And slightly embarrassed that all I did over Xmas was
lay about. Oh, I did do *some* woodwork - I pruned the apple trees.

And I now know how non-techies must feel when we talk about computer stuff
since a significant proportion of the description is incomprehensible to
me. )

If you tell me which bits, I can either rephrase, or make links to
glossary entries etc.

I must admit to being torn a little at times with terminology, since
much of what is commonly used on the web is US centric - but it gets a
bit repetitive to keep using both all the time.

e.g. referring to a Planer in the UK vs a Jointer in the US etc.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Friday 03 January 2014 11:16 Tim Lamb wrote in uk.d-i-y:

In message , John
Rumm writes
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)

Excellent work. Did it get the important domestic seal of approval?

Wow - seriously nice work

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

On 03/01/2014 10:24, stuart noble wrote:
On 03/01/2014 09:47, Huge wrote:
On 2014-01-03, John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

I'm deeply impressed. And slightly embarrassed that all I did over
Xmas was
lay about. Oh, I did do *some* woodwork - I pruned the apple trees.

And I now know how non-techies must feel when we talk about computer
stuff
since a significant proportion of the description is incomprehensible to
me. )



Nice job! My only concern would be the true moisture content of the
timber. I learnt the hard way not to trust the estimates given by
merchants. Furniture stuff should ideally be 10%-12% but IIRC American
hardwoods were pretty reliable in that respect. By contrast, locally
sourced material was often described as "nice and dry" :-)

I wonder how locally sourced American Hardwood fairs ;-)

I did give it a poke with my (cheap ebay) moisture meter, and it did
seem to be in the right ballpark (apart from the last couple of inches
at the board ends which were a bit damper).

Time will tell however...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 03/01/2014 10:12, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 03/01/2014 01:37, John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)



Nice work Norm :-)

I did not stick a brad nail in it anywhere... (although was wearing my
"safety glasses" ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

I also have a Wadkin pullover saw

Lucky sod :-)

On 03/01/2014 11:07, Bob Minchin wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)



Looks very good indeed John.
Did you glue along the full length of the stretcher tenons?

Yes I did wonder about that... My original plan was to only glue the top
3" section of the tenon - although I think in the heat of the moment, I
did both bits! Fortunately the timeber seemed pretty dry at the time of
assembly, so with luck it ought not shrink too much more.

(I did keep the tenons a tad narrower than the mortices to allow a
little room - but how much scope that has now they are not floating at
one end is debatable).

I wonder about movement tending to split the stretchers especially as
they are 'pre-weakened' by the decorative clamping holes?
Hopefully not but should be out of direct gaze of all but other
woodworkers.

Indeed... I might go back and add some notes to that section, since it
is a good point.

Happy New Year and thanks for your advice during the past year.
Bob


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 03/01/2014 13:01, stuart noble wrote:

I also have a Wadkin pullover saw

Lucky sod :-)

I assume you only saw up 'old' pullovers :-)

On 03/01/2014 11:16, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , John
Rumm writes
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)

Excellent work. Did it get the important domestic seal of approval?

Indeed it did... "that might be the nicest thing you have made" was the
comment ;-)

I use the band saw for tenons as you can easily work to a clamped stop.

I use mine for "big" tenons. I must admit to liking a "non H&S approved"
technique for smaller ones on the table saw that basically makes the
shoulder cuts first and then gnaws away at the waste section using a
cove cutting style technique.

I also have a Wadkin pullover saw which is easier for repetitive
clearing cuts.

I can do similar with my SCMS, but its depth setup is not that accurate,
and its not much less effort than on the table saw unless the wood in
question is large an heavy.

Normally if I need to do lots of trench clearing, I fit a dado stack on
the table saw. (which being ancient (1948) has a long enough arbour to
take one).


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , stuart noble
writes

I also have a Wadkin pullover saw

Lucky sod :-)

E-bay, £400, no injection braking. You need space, 3phase, a fork lift
truck. Did I mention space?

I am slightly entertained by the American (dado) determination to use
what I call a *wobble saw blade* for cutting slots. However long does
this take to set up on a bench saw for a one off job?


--
Tim Lamb

On 03/01/2014 01:37, John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)




Wow, that is very impressive :-)

--
Dawood

John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)


Looks good.
I'd have saved some of the oak shavings for the smoker, chicken breasts and
trout etc are excellent smoked with (clean) oak

On 03/01/2014 14:55, Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , stuart noble
writes

I also have a Wadkin pullover saw

Lucky sod :-)

E-bay, £400, no injection braking. You need space, 3phase, a fork lift
truck. Did I mention space?

Yep, you said "space" twice in one sentence :-) Woodworking shops always
look as though the occupants have moved out and left a couple of
machines dotted about. 10 feet back and front of a table saw (and most
other machines) is an absolute minimum IME.
Lovely thing to use, the Wadkin. I mostly had to put up with the deWalt
radial arm, a very different proposition

I am slightly entertained by the American (dado) determination to use
what I call a *wobble saw blade* for cutting slots. However long does
this take to set up on a bench saw for a one off job?



In the (good) old days ISTR an adjustable Picador wobble washer, but it
was mainly a question of trial and error as you couldn't measure the
kerf width unless the blade was spinning

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , stuart noble
writes

I also have a Wadkin pullover saw

Lucky sod :-)

E-bay, £400, no injection braking. You need space, 3phase, a fork lift
truck. Did I mention space?

I am slightly entertained by the American (dado) determination to use
what I call a *wobble saw blade* for cutting slots. However long does
this take to set up on a bench saw for a one off job?


Dado blades cut a flat bottomed groove( housing, dado etc call it what
you will) whereas wobble saws cut a groove with a radiussed bottom which
on most joints is visible.
Armed with a suitable table of thicknesses, I find a dado set and shims
very quick to set and nearly always right first time.

In message , Bob Minchin
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , stuart noble
writes

I also have a Wadkin pullover saw

Lucky sod :-)

E-bay, £400, no injection braking. You need space, 3phase, a fork lift
truck. Did I mention space?

I am slightly entertained by the American (dado) determination to use
what I call a *wobble saw blade* for cutting slots. However long does
this take to set up on a bench saw for a one off job?


Dado blades cut a flat bottomed groove( housing, dado etc call it what
you will) whereas wobble saws cut a groove with a radiussed bottom
which on most joints is visible.
Armed with a suitable table of thicknesses, I find a dado set and shims
very quick to set and nearly always right first time.

Hmm.. A TC tipped blade for my saw costs around £70. How many do you
need for a set?

If you are going to run a bench saw with no riving knife or other hand
protection, why not just do repetitive cuts at different width settings?

--
Tim Lamb

Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , Bob Minchin
writes
Tim Lamb wrote:
In message , stuart noble
writes

I also have a Wadkin pullover saw

Lucky sod :-)

E-bay, £400, no injection braking. You need space, 3phase, a fork lift
truck. Did I mention space?

I am slightly entertained by the American (dado) determination to use
what I call a *wobble saw blade* for cutting slots. However long does
this take to set up on a bench saw for a one off job?


Dado blades cut a flat bottomed groove( housing, dado etc call it what
you will) whereas wobble saws cut a groove with a radiussed bottom
which on most joints is visible.
Armed with a suitable table of thicknesses, I find a dado set and
shims very quick to set and nearly always right first time.

Hmm.. A TC tipped blade for my saw costs around £70. How many do you
need for a set?

If you are going to run a bench saw with no riving knife or other hand
protection, why not just do repetitive cuts at different width settings?

I think my set was about £50 - 8" diameter. Two outer blades and 6 or 7
chippers plus shims.
The outer blades have scribing teeth and the chippers are flat topped.

Using a standard ATB ( alternate top bevel) sawblade will give an uneven
surface when used for trenching - just do a single part depth cut and
look at the result.
I have had a blade especially flat top ground for such work when I need
a clean groove, narrower than a dado set will cut.

On 03/01/2014 13:00, John Rumm wrote:
On 03/01/2014 10:12, The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 03/01/2014 01:37, John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)



Nice work Norm :-)

I did not stick a brad nail in it anywhere... (although was wearing my
"safety glasses" ;-)


"Before we use any power tools, let's take a moment to talk about shop
safety. Be sure to read, understand, and follow all the safety rules
that come with your power tools. Knowing how to use your power tools
properly will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury. And remember
this: there is no more important safety rule than to wear these — safety
glasses."

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 03/01/2014 16:11, Phil L wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)


Looks good.
I'd have saved some of the oak shavings for the smoker, chicken breasts and
trout etc are excellent smoked with (clean) oak

;-) I used one bag to dump on the lawn outside the workshop since it was
getting too muddy to get to!

(another project to do - build a path to it!)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 01:37:40 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)


Nice work John.

That top photo does not do it justice, let's see it in a proper room
setting.


--
Graham.


%Profound_observation%

On 04/01/2014 01:59, Graham. wrote:
On Fri, 03 Jan 2014 01:37:40 +0000, John Rumm
wrote:

Been nailing planks together again...

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

(Feel free to translate into English where required!)

Let me know where it makes no sense at all ;-)


Nice work John.

That top photo does not do it justice, let's see it in a proper room
setting.

Yup, there is another project to come for the room its in... ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Saturday, January 4, 2014 3:00:02 AM UTC, John Rumm wrote:

Very nice, way beyond my abilities.
I thought the American white oak was the more durable timber. I read (I think about USS Constitution) that the white oak was highly sought after for ship building,
to the extent that British ships would sometimes anchor in remote inlets to steal trees.

On Friday, January 3, 2014 1:37:40 AM UTC, John Rumm wrote:
Been nailing planks together again...
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?..._Limbert_style

It's rather more impressive than my excavations.

I discovered the electric underfloor heating cables with my SDS :-)

Owain

On 04/01/2014 10:36, Onetap wrote:
On Saturday, January 4, 2014 3:00:02 AM UTC, John Rumm wrote:

Very nice, way beyond my abilities.
I thought the American white oak was the more durable timber. I read (I think about USS Constitution) that the white oak was highly sought after for ship building,
to the extent that British ships would sometimes anchor in remote inlets to steal trees.

They are slightly different species IIUC - the European version usually
being Quercus Robar or Quercus Patraeous, the common US one being
Quercus Alba. The former two are normally classed as "durable" when used
for exterior applications in the UK, but I don't think the Alba version
is. (to be fair they are pretty similar in most respects, although the
Robar version is generally less susceptible to fungal attack).

If you have a look at BS EN 350-2:1994 there is a reasonably extensive
table of durabilities for different timber species.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 04/01/2014 15:12, John Rumm wrote:
They are slightly different species IIUC - the European version usually
being Quercus Robar or Quercus Patraeous

It's Quercus robur, and petraea.

OTOH I couldn't have built that table

Andy

On Saturday, January 4, 2014 3:12:22 PM UTC, John Rumm wrote:

I thought the American white oak was the more durable timber. I read (I think about USS Constitution) that the white oak was highly sought after for ship building,

to the extent that British ships would sometimes anchor in remote inlets to steal trees.

Tree rustlers.


If you have a look at BS EN 350-2:1994 there is a reasonably extensive

table of durabilities for different timber species.

Thanks, I will.