I have some new windows ready to fit (from the Dunster House site
recommended here), if the weather is as forecast, I expect to fit the
first couple of easy ones (small, no openers, garage rather than house)
tomorrow.

Most (all?) installation instructions I've seen on the web say to
silicone along the upstand at the rear of the cill before screwing to
the frame (obviously to ensure the drain holes whih are only at the
front of the frames able to drain freely onto the cill).

But the brief instructions supplied by the manufacturer say to use *no*
silicone, I don't really fancy such an easy path for wind to blow rain
under the frames. I've queried this with them, asking if why not seal
the upstand only, and they just trotted-out "follow our instructions"
with no additional explanation.

Can anyone think of any reason (other than them arse-covering against
numpties squirting silicone all over the cill and blocking the drains)
to *NOT* silicone at the back of the cills?

What would you do dear DIY-er?

Bonus question: OK, so it's personal taste, but Would you cut horns on
the cills (they are supplied plenty long enough) or cut them flush with
the edge of the frames? The latter seems to be the modern way, is that
just an easy life for the cowboys, or does it make the job super-fiddly?

In article , Andy
Burns scribeth thus
I have some new windows ready to fit (from the Dunster House site
recommended here), if the weather is as forecast, I expect to fit the
first couple of easy ones (small, no openers, garage rather than house)
tomorrow.

Most (all?) installation instructions I've seen on the web say to
silicone along the upstand at the rear of the cill before screwing to
the frame (obviously to ensure the drain holes whih are only at the
front of the frames able to drain freely onto the cill).

But the brief instructions supplied by the manufacturer say to use *no*
silicone, I don't really fancy such an easy path for wind to blow rain
under the frames. I've queried this with them, asking if why not seal
the upstand only, and they just trotted-out "follow our instructions"
with no additional explanation.

Can anyone think of any reason (other than them arse-covering against
numpties squirting silicone all over the cill and blocking the drains)
to *NOT* silicone at the back of the cills?

What would you do dear DIY-er?

Bonus question: OK, so it's personal taste, but Would you cut horns on
the cills (they are supplied plenty long enough) or cut them flush with
the edge of the frames? The latter seems to be the modern way, is that
just an easy life for the cowboys, or does it make the job super-fiddly?


JOOI how is this affected by all the FENSA stuff thats to say doesn't it
have to be FENSA installed in order to meet building regs etc?..


--
Tony Sayer

tony sayer wrote:

JOOI how is this affected by all the FENSA stuff thats to say doesn't it
have to be FENSA installed in order to meet building regs etc?..

Using a FENSA approved fitter is one way to do it, you can do your own
BR application (retrospectively if necessary, in which case keeping
evidence that e.g. frames and glass are to spec, cavity closers and/or
lintels are in place would be sensible, toughened glass is fitted in all
necessary places etc.)

In article , Andy
Burns scribeth thus
tony sayer wrote:

JOOI how is this affected by all the FENSA stuff thats to say doesn't it
have to be FENSA installed in order to meet building regs etc?..

Using a FENSA approved fitter is one way to do it, you can do your own
BR application (retrospectively if necessary, in which case keeping
evidence that e.g. frames and glass are to spec, cavity closers and/or
lintels are in place would be sensible, toughened glass is fitted in all
necessary places etc.)

OK thanks....

--
Tony Sayer

On Thursday 12 September 2013 22:02 tony sayer wrote in uk.d-i-y:



JOOI how is this affected by all the FENSA stuff thats to say doesn't it
have to be FENSA installed in order to meet building regs etc?..



Technically yes - if in a house (not a workshop say) - OR notify building
control if not FENSA registered.

But in reality *no one* (least of all 2 BCOs I have met) really gives a
toss.


--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On Thursday 12 September 2013 21:56 Andy Burns wrote in uk.d-i-y:

I have some new windows ready to fit (from the Dunster House site
recommended here), if the weather is as forecast, I expect to fit the
first couple of easy ones (small, no openers, garage rather than house)
tomorrow.

Most (all?) installation instructions I've seen on the web say to
silicone along the upstand at the rear of the cill before screwing to
the frame (obviously to ensure the drain holes whih are only at the
front of the frames able to drain freely onto the cill).

But the brief instructions supplied by the manufacturer say to use *no*
silicone, I don't really fancy such an easy path for wind to blow rain
under the frames. I've queried this with them, asking if why not seal
the upstand only, and they just trotted-out "follow our instructions"
with no additional explanation.

Can anyone think of any reason (other than them arse-covering against
numpties squirting silicone all over the cill and blocking the drains)
to *NOT* silicone at the back of the cills?

What would you do dear DIY-er?

I used no silicon. It's fine as the frame sits tight to the cill along the
back edge as it has a lip.

However, it would do not harm to run a bead along the back edge. leave the
front clear and make sure you do not get silicon into the drain holes in the
frame underside.

Bonus question: OK, so it's personal taste, but Would you cut horns on
the cills (they are supplied plenty long enough) or cut them flush with
the edge of the frames? The latter seems to be the modern way, is that
just an easy life for the cowboys, or does it make the job super-fiddly?

Can't answer - I matched the cill as I had no choice. I do know that
superglu (gel type) is the correct way to fix the end caps to the cill. I
used silicone which worked but I had to clamp some of them. I found that out
later.

I had the Dunster House windows too. If you have trouble with the beads
(mine were quite stiff to pop in - though IIRC they sell frames based on 3
different make of extrusion so yours may be different!) I dipped mine in
warm water to help soften and lubricate the rubber strip.

HTH

Tim

--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

Tim Watts wrote:

it would do not harm to run a bead along the back edge.

I think I will.

leave the front clear and make sure you do not get silicon into the
drain holes in the frame underside.

I'd tried to be clear that I understood about the drain holes.

I had the Dunster House windows too. If you have trouble with the beads
(mine were quite stiff to pop in - though IIRC they sell frames based on 3
different make of extrusion so yours may be different!)

I took a trip to their "showroom" before ordering, they had Selecta
Systems Advance70 frames on display, and that's what they've supplied.

I dipped mine in warm water to help soften and lubricate the rubber
strip.

Thanks for the tip.

Tim Watts wrote:

I used no silicon. It's fine as the frame sits tight to the cill along the
back edge as it has a lip.
However, it would do not harm to run a bead along the back edge.

In the end, I didn't silicone the cill to the frame, after seeing how
tight and close the fit is with a screw every 250mm.

Tim Watts wrote:

I had the Dunster House windows too.

I see they've revamped their quotation website in the past couple of
days, it's quite an improvement (more WYSIWYG, fewer whole page
refreshes) the price for my largest window would have risen from £576 to
£659 though.