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Default Sawing finished oak


I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the
height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section
dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm.

As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good
square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm
blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting
sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick
hardwood.
--
rbel
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On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote:

I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the
height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section
dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm.

As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good
square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm
blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting
sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick
hardwood.

The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to
cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which
can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right
place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that
it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a
good blade, and don't apply too much force.
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Default Sawing finished oak


As chap above says, "make a guide", and practice on some scrap timber.
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On 25/08/2013 15:24, newshound wrote:
On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote:

I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the
height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section
dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm.

As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good
square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm
blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting
sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick
hardwood.

The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to
cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which
can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right
place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that
it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a
good blade, and don't apply too much force.



You will also need a fairly fine blade if you don't want to burst out
the edges.
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Rick Hughes wrote:
On 25/08/2013 15:24, newshound wrote:
On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote:

I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the
height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section
dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm.

As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good
square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm
blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting
sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick
hardwood.

The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to
cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which
can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right
place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that
it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a
good blade, and don't apply too much force.



You will also need a fairly fine blade if you don't want to burst out
the edges.

As with hand sawing, scribe a knife line all round the leg and cut very
slightly to the waste side of that line. Make sure the blade does not
twist otherwise the wood will burn.
Can you get someone to handsaw it for you? So much more control than a
screaming power tool.
Once cut to length, use a block plane to cut a fine chamfer all round
the leg to stop it splintering when the sideboard gets dragged over the
floor - as it is bound to at some time or other.


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On 25/08/2013 17:20, Bob Minchin wrote:
Rick Hughes wrote:
On 25/08/2013 15:24, newshound wrote:
On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote:

I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the
height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section
dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm.

As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good
square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm
blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting
sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick
hardwood.

The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to
cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which
can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right
place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that
it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a
good blade, and don't apply too much force.



You will also need a fairly fine blade if you don't want to burst out
the edges.

As with hand sawing, scribe a knife line all round the leg and cut very
slightly to the waste side of that line. Make sure the blade does not
twist otherwise the wood will burn.
Can you get someone to handsaw it for you? So much more control than a
screaming power tool.
Once cut to length, use a block plane to cut a fine chamfer all round
the leg to stop it splintering when the sideboard gets dragged over the
floor - as it is bound to at some time or other.


I meant to add that. If you don't have a nice sharp plane you should be
able to get away with sandpaper wrapped around a wood block as it won't
really be in sight.
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On Sun, 25 Aug 2013 22:37:27 +0100, newshound
wrote:

On 25/08/2013 17:20, Bob Minchin wrote:
Rick Hughes wrote:
On 25/08/2013 15:24, newshound wrote:
On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote:

I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the
height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section
dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm.

As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good
square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm
blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting
sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick
hardwood.

The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to
cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which
can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right
place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that
it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a
good blade, and don't apply too much force.


You will also need a fairly fine blade if you don't want to burst out
the edges.

As with hand sawing, scribe a knife line all round the leg and cut very
slightly to the waste side of that line. Make sure the blade does not
twist otherwise the wood will burn.
Can you get someone to handsaw it for you? So much more control than a
screaming power tool.
Once cut to length, use a block plane to cut a fine chamfer all round
the leg to stop it splintering when the sideboard gets dragged over the
floor - as it is bound to at some time or other.


I meant to add that. If you don't have a nice sharp plane you should be
able to get away with sandpaper wrapped around a wood block as it won't
really be in sight.


Many thanks to all for the advice. I think I may try a cut on the
excess length with a power saw, leaving sufficient length left for a
joiner to rescue the job if necessary. As suggested I will scribe
around the leg to start with and set up a guide. I have a some good
inherited planes to chamfer the bottom edges.
--
rbel

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"newshound" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote:

I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the
height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section
dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm.

As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good
square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm
blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting
sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick
hardwood.

The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to
cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which can
be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right place.
Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that it doesn't
move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a good blade,
and don't apply too much force.


To avoid splintering, cut "tramlines" with a Stanley knife and cut between
them.
Or only one line if part is scrap.

A hand saw is better. Can't someone help?


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rbel wrote:
I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the
height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm.

When you've done it put some adhesive felt pads on the underneath.

Bill
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