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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Sawing finished oak
I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm. As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick hardwood. -- rbel |
#2
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Sawing finished oak
On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote:
I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm. As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick hardwood. The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a good blade, and don't apply too much force. |
#3
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Sawing finished oak
As chap above says, "make a guide", and practice on some scrap timber. |
#4
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Sawing finished oak
On 25/08/2013 15:24, newshound wrote:
On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote: I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm. As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick hardwood. The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a good blade, and don't apply too much force. You will also need a fairly fine blade if you don't want to burst out the edges. |
#5
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Sawing finished oak
Rick Hughes wrote:
On 25/08/2013 15:24, newshound wrote: On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote: I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm. As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick hardwood. The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a good blade, and don't apply too much force. You will also need a fairly fine blade if you don't want to burst out the edges. As with hand sawing, scribe a knife line all round the leg and cut very slightly to the waste side of that line. Make sure the blade does not twist otherwise the wood will burn. Can you get someone to handsaw it for you? So much more control than a screaming power tool. Once cut to length, use a block plane to cut a fine chamfer all round the leg to stop it splintering when the sideboard gets dragged over the floor - as it is bound to at some time or other. |
#6
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Sawing finished oak
On 25/08/2013 17:20, Bob Minchin wrote:
Rick Hughes wrote: On 25/08/2013 15:24, newshound wrote: On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote: I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm. As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick hardwood. The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a good blade, and don't apply too much force. You will also need a fairly fine blade if you don't want to burst out the edges. As with hand sawing, scribe a knife line all round the leg and cut very slightly to the waste side of that line. Make sure the blade does not twist otherwise the wood will burn. Can you get someone to handsaw it for you? So much more control than a screaming power tool. Once cut to length, use a block plane to cut a fine chamfer all round the leg to stop it splintering when the sideboard gets dragged over the floor - as it is bound to at some time or other. I meant to add that. If you don't have a nice sharp plane you should be able to get away with sandpaper wrapped around a wood block as it won't really be in sight. |
#7
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Sawing finished oak
On Sun, 25 Aug 2013 22:37:27 +0100, newshound
wrote: On 25/08/2013 17:20, Bob Minchin wrote: Rick Hughes wrote: On 25/08/2013 15:24, newshound wrote: On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote: I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm. As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick hardwood. The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a good blade, and don't apply too much force. You will also need a fairly fine blade if you don't want to burst out the edges. As with hand sawing, scribe a knife line all round the leg and cut very slightly to the waste side of that line. Make sure the blade does not twist otherwise the wood will burn. Can you get someone to handsaw it for you? So much more control than a screaming power tool. Once cut to length, use a block plane to cut a fine chamfer all round the leg to stop it splintering when the sideboard gets dragged over the floor - as it is bound to at some time or other. I meant to add that. If you don't have a nice sharp plane you should be able to get away with sandpaper wrapped around a wood block as it won't really be in sight. Many thanks to all for the advice. I think I may try a cut on the excess length with a power saw, leaving sufficient length left for a joiner to rescue the job if necessary. As suggested I will scribe around the leg to start with and set up a guide. I have a some good inherited planes to chamfer the bottom edges. -- rbel |
#8
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Sawing finished oak
"newshound" wrote in message o.uk... On 25/08/2013 14:21, rbel wrote: I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. The cross section dimensions are a fairly substantial 90mm x 60mm. As I have iffy shoulders I wonder if it is possible to achieve a good square cut with a power tool, eg a hand held circular saw with a 190mm blade/66mm maximum depth of cut. I have only used it for cutting sheet materials in the past so have no experience of it with thick hardwood. The usual "measure twice cut once" rule applies in spades. Don't try to cut "by eye" following a marked line. I would fabricate a guide which can be clamped securely in place to ensure a square cut in the right place. Also make sure that the sideboard is suitably "chocked" so that it doesn't move while you are cutting. You will need a powerful saw, a good blade, and don't apply too much force. To avoid splintering, cut "tramlines" with a Stanley knife and cut between them. Or only one line if part is scrap. A hand saw is better. Can't someone help? |
#9
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Sawing finished oak
rbel wrote:
I am about to buy a large oak sideboard which is fine apart from the height. I want to shorten the legs by 80mm. When you've done it put some adhesive felt pads on the underneath. Bill |
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