Hi,

I bough a reel of solder many years ago and I still have plenty left
but I keep forgetting where I have put it and can never find it when I
need it, so I was thinking of buying a spare. I am bewildered by all
the choices out there. What should I choose? It is just for occasional
DIY repairs and dabbling. I won't be doing any surface mount work or
anything that small.

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products but since I will not be selling anything, would you
advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative? I
have googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free
but just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.

Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

TIA

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 07:27:03 +0000, Fred wrote:

Hi,

I bough a reel of solder many years ago and I still have plenty left but
I keep forgetting where I have put it and can never find it when I need
it, so I was thinking of buying a spare. I am bewildered by all the
choices out there. What should I choose? It is just for occasional DIY
repairs and dabbling. I won't be doing any surface mount work or
anything that small.

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

How big are the 'jobs' component parts?

From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products but since I will not be selling anything, would you advise
me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative? I have
googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free but
just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.

Lead every time. Lead-free is the work of some nasty person. And the
ecological benefits are very marginal. The fact that medical and
aeronautical/aerospace are 'allowed' leaded must tell you something!

(Except if plumbing you are 'supposed' to use lead free as it will
dissolve in the water and dissolve your brain allegedly ...)

Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

Flux cored if electronics stuff (if pipe-work flux free).

HTH




--
"When it's time to stop living, I will certainly make Death
my number one choice!"
(The Last Continent)
07:35:01 up 12:26, 6 users, load average: 0.61, 0.40, 0.34

Fred wrote

I bough a reel of solder many years ago and I still have plenty
left but I keep forgetting where I have put it and can never
find it when I need it, so I was thinking of buying a spare.

Wouldn't it make more sense to just split that reel when you find it ?

I am bewildered by all the choices out there. What should I choose?

More of what you have already.

It is just for occasional DIY repairs and dabbling. I won't
be doing any surface mount work or anything that small.

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm

Whatever you find convenient for what you do.

or doesn't it make much of a difference?

Whatever you find convenient for what you do.

From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products but since I will not be selling anything, would you
advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative?

Yep.

I have googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free
but just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.

No point in bothering with lead free in your situation.

Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

You do need flux if you are just repairing stuff.

On Friday 22 February 2013 07:40 The Nomad wrote in uk.d-i-y:

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 07:27:03 +0000, Fred wrote:

Hi,

I bough a reel of solder many years ago and I still have plenty left but
I keep forgetting where I have put it and can never find it when I need
it, so I was thinking of buying a spare. I am bewildered by all the
choices out there. What should I choose? It is just for occasional DIY
repairs and dabbling. I won't be doing any surface mount work or
anything that small.

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

How big are the 'jobs' component parts?

From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products but since I will not be selling anything, would you advise
me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative? I have
googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free but
just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.

Lead every time. Lead-free is the work of some nasty person. And the
ecological benefits are very marginal. The fact that medical and
aeronautical/aerospace are 'allowed' leaded must tell you something!

Not just. Autmotive is exempt too.

(Except if plumbing you are 'supposed' to use lead free as it will
dissolve in the water and dissolve your brain allegedly ...)

Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

Flux cored if electronics stuff (if pipe-work flux free).

HTH




--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On 22/02/2013 07:27, Fred wrote:

I am bewildered by all the choices out there. What should I choose?
It is just for occasional DIY repairs and dabbling. I won't be doing
any surface mount work or anything that small.

Alloy 60/40, or 'savbit' if you're still using a copper-tipped iron.

Diameter: 1.2 mm is a good choice for all-round electrical/electronic
work, larger if it's for metalwork.

Flux: there's a huge choice available nowadays. Unless you're sensitive
to the fumes you won't go too far wrong by sticking to the traditional
rosin-based '362' grade. More aggressive fluxes (e.g. acid-cored
solder) can be useful on metalwork, but must be washed off after
soldering - these are quite unsuitable for electronics work, obviously.

--
Andy

In article ,
Fred writes:
Hi,

I bough a reel of solder many years ago and I still have plenty left
but I keep forgetting where I have put it and can never find it when I
need it, so I was thinking of buying a spare. I am bewildered by all
the choices out there. What should I choose? It is just for occasional
DIY repairs and dabbling. I won't be doing any surface mount work or
anything that small.

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

You need thin solder if you are doing small work.
Otherwise either works, but thicker is slightly cheaper and
may be more convenient.

From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling

Correct (with some exceptions - specific products which
need to be very reliable, such as life support systems).

your products but since I will not be selling anything, would you
advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative? I
have googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free
but just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.

I use leaded, because most of my component stock is tinned
with leaded. This isn't an issue if you're starting from
scratch, as new components are not lead-tinned. I'm also
often working on circuits which are all lead solder anyway,
where you should use leaded.

I do have some lead-free solder, which gets used when
appropriate (very occasionally). It's no different providing
your soldering iron is hot enough (and I use a hot iron
anyway, 800F). You have to make sure you don't have any lead
present (should use a different soldering iron tip, or it
must be very well cleaned off after having been used for
lead, as small traces of lead does nasty things to lead-
free solder), and lead-free eats through the plating on
soldering iron bits faster - I think the iron plating is
slightly soluable in it, or something like that.

Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

Always with flux for electronics work, as it's too small to
apply the flex separately. You only use separate flux when
the items being soldered are large, e.g. very large high
current electrical work, plumbing, etc.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
Fred wrote:
Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

0.7mm is much better for small connections and you simply use more of it
for large.

Stick to leaded.

--
*If at first you do succeed, try not to look too astonished.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Friday, February 22, 2013 10:45:41 AM UTC, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,

Fred writes:

Hi,



I bough a reel of solder many years ago and I still have plenty left

but I keep forgetting where I have put it and can never find it when I

need it, so I was thinking of buying a spare. I am bewildered by all

the choices out there. What should I choose? It is just for occasional

DIY repairs and dabbling. I won't be doing any surface mount work or

anything that small.



Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a

difference?



You need thin solder if you are doing small work.

Otherwise either works, but thicker is slightly cheaper and

may be more convenient.

Yes I'd stick with thicker 1.2mm 18swg.

I use the thinner with silver content as it';s used puerly for electronics.



From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling



Correct (with some exceptions - specific products which

need to be very reliable, such as life support systems).

and education or so I've been leaded to believe


your products but since I will not be selling anything, would you

advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative? I

have googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free

but just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.



I use leaded, because most of my component stock is tinned

with leaded. This isn't an issue if you're starting from

scratch, as new components are not lead-tinned. I'm also

often working on circuits which are all lead solder anyway,

where you should use leaded.

yes you also shouldn;t mix them for relibility issues but I think that's more to do with small electronic parts.


I do have some lead-free solder, which gets used when

appropriate (very occasionally). It's no different providing

your soldering iron is hot enough .

That's not really true, it's more of a pain to use (unleaded) and a good joint looks like a bad joint (dry joint) of leaded solder (i.e not shiney).
when using unleaded solder you also need differnt bits as the flux/rosin/whatever is far more corrosive and attacks the bits.

I buy the bits for lead free solder, but still use them for leaded solder.


(and I use a hot iron

anyway, 800F).

My range is 230C to 400C (450F-750F). Using an antex 690sd iron.
with a 0.5mm to 2.3mm tips.



You have to make sure you don't have any lead

present (should use a different soldering iron tip, or it

must be very well cleaned off after having been used for

lead, as small traces of lead does nasty things to lead-

free solder), and lead-free eats through the plating on

soldering iron bits faster - I think the iron plating is

slightly soluable in it, or something like that.



Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.



Always with flux for electronics work, as it's too small to

apply the flex separately. You only use separate flux when

the items being soldered are large, e.g. very large high

current electrical work, plumbing, etc.



--

Andrew Gabriel

[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On 22 Feb, 07:27, Fred wrote:
Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

Thinner stuff disappears quicker :-) Only realy needed for fine jobs
where you need to control the application.

From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products but since I will not be selling anything, would you
advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative? I
have googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free
but just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.

I use nothing but lead free these days. Anyone who says it's difficult
to use (in a domestic/hobby setting) is an idiot who has never learned
to solder properly.

Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

No controversy, always use flux-cored for electronics asembly.

MBQ

On Friday, February 22, 2013 7:27:03 AM UTC, Fred wrote:

Hi,
I bough a reel of solder many years ago and I still have plenty left
but I keep forgetting where I have put it and can never find it when I
need it, so I was thinking of buying a spare. I am bewildered by all
the choices out there. What should I choose? It is just for occasional
DIY repairs and dabbling. I won't be doing any surface mount work or
anything that small.
Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

Whatever youre comfortable with. Thin is easier to use on tiny parts, thick is easier to use for everything else, and cheaper.


From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products but since I will not be selling anything, would you
advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative? I
have googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free
but just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.

Maybe you'll never know what to think until you try both. here have been a lot of complaints in the industry about lead free.


Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.
TIA

For electronic work, solder should always have flux built into it. I've tried fluxless dipped in flux and its poorer, but usable on large joints. I wouldnt consider it for small work.

Surface mount work is often done with a paste of solder powder in flux.

Never use acid flux (killed spirits) on electronics, traces remaining eat through the thin metal. Some folk also use separate rosin flux at times with electronics, but most don't bother.

I use different irons for leaded and unleaded.


NT

In article ,
whisky-dave wrote:
Yes I'd stick with thicker 1.2mm 18swg.

I do quite a bit of electronic soldering, and quite honestly 1.2mm is
rather too thick for anything involving a PCB. And I have four sizes here
on a dispenser. ;-) The 1.2mm hardly ever gets used - only for soldering
large terminals.

If I could only have one size it would definitely be the smallest one. It
can do anything the larger ones do by simply using more.

The smaller size appears to have more flux per cent and tins something
better with less solder bulk on it.

--
*I used to have an open mind but my brains kept falling out *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Friday, February 22, 2013 1:11:50 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,

whisky-dave wrote:

Yes I'd stick with thicker 1.2mm 18swg.



I do quite a bit of electronic soldering, and quite honestly 1.2mm is

rather too thick for anything involving a PCB. And I have four sizes here

on a dispenser. ;-) The 1.2mm hardly ever gets used - only for soldering

large terminals.

Yes I agree, my statement of I'd stick to 1.2mm was aimed at the OP, who wasn;t going to do PCB or fine soldering from what he implied.
I personally stick with 0.7mm 22swg.
http://www.rapidonline.com/Tools-Equ...r-250g-85-6372

although I've also used the .45mm 26swg for surface mmount.





If I could only have one size it would definitely be the smallest one. It

can do anything the larger ones do by simply using more.

Agreed, but I have a selection of all sorts that have been brought and found over the years. We'll be embarking on flow soldering too soon, not sure what we'll be using for that.


The smaller size appears to have more flux per cent and tins something

better with less solder bulk on it.



--

*I used to have an open mind but my brains kept falling out *

That's why I wear those steel toe-capped safety shoes in the lab, one can't be too careful ;-)

On 22/02/13 07:27, Fred wrote:


From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products

It can if its 'instrumentation' :-)

but since I will not be selling anything, would you
advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative?

yes, yes, and yes.


Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.


if you are using a soldering iron, use flux cored solder.

If you are heat gunning down surface mount stuff, I think you use a
separate flux. Not something I have ever done.

TIA



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On 22 Feb, 14:23, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 22/02/13 07:27, Fred wrote:



*From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products

It can if its 'instrumentation' :-)

* but since I will not be selling anything, would you

advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative?

yes, yes, and yes.

Why, why and why?


Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

if you are using a soldering iron, use flux cored solder.

If you are heat gunning down surface mount stuff, I think you use a
separate flux. Not something I have ever done.

No, you use solder paste.

MBQ

On 22/02/13 16:34, Man at B&Q wrote:
On 22 Feb, 14:23, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 22/02/13 07:27, Fred wrote:



From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products

It can if its 'instrumentation' :-)

but since I will not be selling anything, would you

advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative?

yes, yes, and yes.

Why, why and why?


mostly because it works better.

the leaded solder solidifies better with far less chance of a cold joint
if you move it a bit while its cooling.


The solder is also less brittle when its solid.
I think that why critical applications where a joint failure could be
life threatening are still allowed to use it.




Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

if you are using a soldering iron, use flux cored solder.

If you are heat gunning down surface mount stuff, I think you use a
separate flux. Not something I have ever done.

No, you use solder paste.

MBQ



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/02/13 16:34, Man at B&Q wrote:
On 22 Feb, 14:23, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 22/02/13 07:27, Fred wrote:



From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products

It can if its 'instrumentation' :-)

but since I will not be selling anything, would you

advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative?

yes, yes, and yes.

Why, why and why?


mostly because it works better.

the leaded solder solidifies better with far less chance of a cold joint
if you move it a bit while its cooling.


The solder is also less brittle when its solid.
I think that why critical applications where a joint failure could be
life threatening are still allowed to use it.


yes - for medical & military applications.

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.18

On Friday 22 February 2013 16:54 charles wrote in uk.d-i-y:

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
On 22/02/13 16:34, Man at B&Q wrote:
On 22 Feb, 14:23, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
On 22/02/13 07:27, Fred wrote:



From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are
selling
your products

It can if its 'instrumentation' :-)

but since I will not be selling anything, would you

advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative?

yes, yes, and yes.

Why, why and why?


mostly because it works better.

the leaded solder solidifies better with far less chance of a cold joint
if you move it a bit while its cooling.


The solder is also less brittle when its solid.
I think that why critical applications where a joint failure could be
life threatening are still allowed to use it.


yes - for medical & military applications.


And automotive...
--
Tim Watts Personal Blog: http://squiddy.blog.dionic.net/

http://www.sensorly.com/ Crowd mapping of 2G/3G/4G mobile signal coverage

Reading this on the web? See:
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Usenet

On 22/02/2013 12:19, Man at B&Q wrote:


I use nothing but lead free these days. Anyone who says it's difficult
to use (in a domestic/hobby setting) is an idiot who has never learned
to solder properly.

In a domestic hobby setting leaded solder is much easier to use. Why
make life more difficult for yourself.

--
mailto:news{at}admac(dot}myzen{dot}co{dot}uk

On 22/02/2013 07:27, Fred wrote:
Hi,

I bough a reel of solder many years ago and I still have plenty left
but I keep forgetting where I have put it and can never find it when I
need it, so I was thinking of buying a spare. I am bewildered by all
the choices out there. What should I choose? It is just for occasional
DIY repairs and dabbling. I won't be doing any surface mount work or
anything that small.

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

The thinner is better if you want to work on a circuit board - and you
have the option of using a longer length to make up for the lack of
thickness, whereas the reverse does not always work as well.

From what I can tell, leaded solder cannot be used if you are selling
your products but since I will not be selling anything, would you
advise me to buy leaded solder rather than a lead-free alternative? I

Generally, yes. (plumbing excepted)

have googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free
but just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.

Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

Go for a good quality flux cored solder. The only time that separate
flux really becomes necessary is on surface mount work.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Friday, February 22, 2013 7:31:21 PM UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/02/2013 07:27, Fred wrote:

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

The thinner is better if you want to work on a circuit board - and you
have the option of using a longer length to make up for the lack of
thickness, whereas the reverse does not always work as well.

Yes, upto a point, but having to fast feed an excessive length of thin solder doesnt work well either. I prefer too thick to too thin any day - its only really the tightest stuff where that becomes unworkable.


Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.
Go for a good quality flux cored solder.

I've always bought random brands, and never had an inferior product. I know there were poor products out there decades ago, but I've not seen one in a long time.


The only time that separate
flux really becomes necessary is on surface mount work.

Its big stuff that needs it, big as in get your 125w iron out. Sm wants it, but is so tiny that you can just use the flux in an extra half millimetre of thin solder wire.


NT

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 01:40:38 -0600, The Nomad
wrote:

How big are the 'jobs' component parts?

When I find time to dabble, it's on strip board, but most of the time
I'm reattaching small wires that have come off the PCBs on children's
toys.

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 13:11:50 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

I do quite a bit of electronic soldering, and quite honestly 1.2mm is
rather too thick for anything involving a PCB. And I have four sizes here
on a dispenser. ;-) The 1.2mm hardly ever gets used - only for soldering
large terminals.

Thanks. I have no idea what diameter my lost roll is. I don't think I
was aware of different widths when I bought it. It was whatever Maplin
had on their shelves at the time.

The reason I asked about 0.7 and 1.2mm solder was I was looking to
take advantage of the "webfree" offer and they were the two sizes
listed by CPC. However, I have now seen tool station sell a 1.0mm size
for even less, so I may go with that. I am curious to know; what are
the three other sizes you use?

Thanks.

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 04:19:23 -0800 (PST), "Man at B&Q"
wrote:


always use flux-cored for electronics asembly.

I think I may have misunderstood the comments on the web. I think
everyone advocates using flux; the debate was whether this should be
in the solder or separate but as AG has clarified, only use the
separate flux if soldering something big, which I am not. Thanks.

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 04:52:56 -0800 (PST), wrote:


Maybe you'll never know what to think until you try both. here have been a lot of complaints in the industry about lead free.

I've read that lead-free doesn't look "right" so it's hard to tell if
you have a good joint but perhaps you get used to this. Like you say,
perhaps I should see for myself. I didn't realise you need separate
irons, or at least bits though. Is that because the leaded solder
contaminates the lead free?

I was interested to read on the web that the fumes are not solder
vapour but the flux. If this is so, I'm not sure why the lead is a
problem if you are not inhaling it. Some web sites suggest the flux in
lead free is more harmful than that in the leaded version!

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 17:10:36 +0000, Tim Watts
wrote:

And automotive...

Is there an echo in here

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 23:01:03 +0000, Fred wrote:

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 04:19:23 -0800 (PST), "Man at B&Q"
wrote:


always use flux-cored for electronics asembly.

I think I may have misunderstood the comments on the web. I think
everyone advocates using flux; the debate was whether this should be in
the solder or separate but as AG has clarified, only use the separate
flux if soldering something big, which I am not. Thanks.

Or if it's something very small...separate flux can be useful, I hear,
for some SM stuff.

I use 63/37 solder....!
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK: http://www.mirrorservice.org
My posts (including this one) are my copyright and if @diy_forums on
Twitter wish to tweet them they can pay me £30 a post
*lightning surge protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 13:22:42 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Friday, February 22, 2013 7:31:21 PM UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/02/2013 07:27, Fred wrote:

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

The thinner is better if you want to work on a circuit board - and you
have the option of using a longer length to make up for the lack of
thickness, whereas the reverse does not always work as well.

Yes, upto a point, but having to fast feed an excessive length of thin solder doesnt work well either. I prefer too thick to too thin any day - its only really the tightest stuff where that becomes unworkable.


Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.
Go for a good quality flux cored solder.

I've always bought random brands, and never had an inferior product.

Ersin.

--
Frank Erskine

On Friday, February 22, 2013 11:04:33 PM UTC, Fred wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 04:52:56 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Maybe you'll never know what to think until you try both. here have been a lot of complaints in the industry about lead free.

I've read that lead-free doesn't look "right" so it's hard to tell if
you have a good joint but perhaps you get used to this. Like you say,
perhaps I should see for myself. I didn't realise you need separate
irons, or at least bits though. Is that because the leaded solder
contaminates the lead free?

Solders are all specific metal mixes to achieve their basic properties. Mix 2 different solders in random proportions and who knows what properties you end up with.

Someone suggested swapping tips IIRC, I'd say that would soon lead to regrets.

I was interested to read on the web that the fumes are not solder
vapour but the flux. If this is so, I'm not sure why the lead is a
problem if you are not inhaling it. Some web sites suggest the flux in
lead free is more harmful than that in the leaded version!

Lead in landfill can contaminate ground water in theory, but its not been found a problem in practice. That's the nonissue outlawing lead is based on.

Rosin fumes are known to cause respiratory diseases, but its hard to avoid them.


NT

In article ,
wrote:
The thinner is better if you want to work on a circuit board - and you
have the option of using a longer length to make up for the lack of
thickness, whereas the reverse does not always work as well.

Yes, upto a point, but having to fast feed an excessive length of thin
solder doesnt work well either. I prefer too thick to too thin any day -
its only really the tightest stuff where that becomes unworkable.

What sort of electronics are you dealing with? Soldering non surface mount
stuff to a double sided PCB is till easier with the thin stuff - you don't
have to 'fast feed' it. As I said, I hardly ever use 1.2mm at all - even
although it is to hand.

--
*If you think this van is dirty, you should try having sex with the driver*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 22:53:57 +0000, Fred
wrote:

On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 01:40:38 -0600, The Nomad
wrote:

How big are the 'jobs' component parts?

When I find time to dabble, it's on strip board, but most of the time
I'm reattaching small wires that have come off the PCBs on children's
toys.

Teach the kids how to solder so that they can mend their own toys.

Seriously, it's a worthwhile skill to pass on. OK - you might be
expected to find the dis. wire/s, but the kids can fix 'em and get
their toys working again.

Try to get them away from the idea that faulty goods should be fixed
by somebody else, or replaced.

--
Frank Erskine

On 22/02/2013 23:01, Fred wrote:
On Fri, 22 Feb 2013 04:19:23 -0800 (PST), "Man at B&Q"
wrote:


always use flux-cored for electronics asembly.

I think I may have misunderstood the comments on the web. I think
everyone advocates using flux; the debate was whether this should be
in the solder or separate but as AG has clarified, only use the
separate flux if soldering something big, which I am not. Thanks.

....or something very small - like surface mount.

Its very difficult to do drag solder techniques etc without additional
flux.

Note that one will usually use flux _and_ a good electronics grade flux
cored solder.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 12:32:02 AM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:

The thinner is better if you want to work on a circuit board - and you
have the option of using a longer length to make up for the lack of
thickness, whereas the reverse does not always work as well.
Yes, upto a point, but having to fast feed an excessive length of thin
solder doesnt work well either. I prefer too thick to too thin any day -
its only really the tightest stuff where that becomes unworkable.
What sort of electronics are you dealing with? Soldering non surface mount
stuff to a double sided PCB is till easier with the thin stuff - you don't
have to 'fast feed' it. As I said, I hardly ever use 1.2mm at all - even
although it is to hand.

Everything from 1920s equipment to sm parts. Bulky joints such as flexes onto connectors are a pain with fine solder, its just impractical to feed fast and far enough with one hand.


NT

On 22/02/2013 21:22, wrote:
On Friday, February 22, 2013 7:31:21 PM UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/02/2013 07:27, Fred wrote:

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of
a difference?

The thinner is better if you want to work on a circuit board - and
you have the option of using a longer length to make up for the
lack of thickness, whereas the reverse does not always work as
well.

Yes, upto a point, but having to fast feed an excessive length of
thin solder doesnt work well either. I prefer too thick to too thin
any day - its only really the tightest stuff where that becomes
unworkable.

Depends on what you do I guess... I find 1.2mm a bit heavy for most
circuit board work

Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.
Go for a good quality flux cored solder.

I've always bought random brands, and never had an inferior product.
I know there were poor products out there decades ago, but I've not
seen one in a long time.

What I have found is that any of them solder ok, but the flux fumes from
some are far more unpleasant than from others.

The only time that separate flux really becomes necessary is on
surface mount work.

Its big stuff that needs it, big as in get your 125w iron out. Sm

Sure, but I was talking electronics work here...

(although even then there is a place for 125W irons in desoldering work)

wants it, but is so tiny that you can just use the flux in an extra
half millimetre of thin solder wire.

Its more about flow with SM work - that and you tend to burn off the
flux in the wire by soldering the "wrong" way; i.e. by applying the
solder to the bit and not to the preheated joint.

So the flux in the wire serves to keep the bit wetted and clean, and the
flux on the board lets the solder flow without bridging pins etc.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

En el artículo , Fred
escribió:

I am bewildered by all
the choices out there. What should I choose? It is just for occasional
DIY repairs and dabbling. I won't be doing any surface mount work or
anything that small.

This stuff. I've been using it for years.

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/solders/0555235/

That's for a 500g reel, there may be a 250g equivalent but I can't spot
it.

It's 0.7mm, with a non-corrosive rosin flux core, which you want for
electronics, and it's made by Ersin (top quality).

Which width do I need 0.7mm or 1.2mm or doesn't it make much of a
difference?

For electronics (as per your subject) 0.7mm. As others have said, if
you need to do a bigger joint you just feed more in.

I
have googled and there seem to be many sites that don't like lead-free
but just as many that do, so I don't know what to think about it.

Leaded all the way. Lead-free's a pain in the arse to keep the tree-
huggers happy but has done bugger all for the environment, and is
inferior to leaded. It's just resulted in more electronics equipment
with bad solder joints going into landfill (because of the replace
rather then repair culture), the exact opposite effect to what the
greenies intended.

Flux or no flux seems to be just as controversial.

You do need flux. Flux cored solders are easiest, and the one I suggest
above is non-corrosive, so you needn't clean it off afterwards.

--
(\_/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 1:23:57 AM UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/02/2013 21:22, wrote:
On Friday, February 22, 2013 7:31:21 PM UTC, John Rumm wrote:
On 22/02/2013 07:27, Fred wrote:

The only time that separate flux really becomes necessary is on
surface mount work.

Its big stuff that needs it, big as in get your 125w iron out. Sm

Sure, but I was talking electronics work here...

So am I. Extra flux is needed wherever an iron is being pushed somewhat, and the joint is consequently slow to do. The OP will probably be buying a 25w non-thermostatic type iron, so will encounter such joints from time to time. The OP won't have a modern thermostatic iron.


NT

In article ,
writes:

Rosin fumes are known to cause respiratory diseases, but its hard to avoid them.

They're really cunning - doesn't matter where you position your
face, they always drift straight into it.

There are various fume extraction systems, but you don't want a
breeze blowing across your soldering work, particularly if you
don't have a temperature controlled iron.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

In article ,
wrote:
What sort of electronics are you dealing with? Soldering non surface
mount stuff to a double sided PCB is till easier with the thin stuff -
you don't have to 'fast feed' it. As I said, I hardly ever use 1.2mm
at all - even although it is to hand.

Everything from 1920s equipment to sm parts. Bulky joints such as flexes
onto connectors are a pain with fine solder, its just impractical to
feed fast and far enough with one hand.

I'd agree if you're repairing old stuff where the components are on tag
strips - or doing largish flex - is ok with larger stuff - but that surely
is a small part of contruction or repair these days?

--
*War does not determine who is right - only who is left.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Saturday, February 23, 2013 7:09:29 PM UTC, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
wrote:

What sort of electronics are you dealing with? Soldering non surface
mount stuff to a double sided PCB is till easier with the thin stuff -
you don't have to 'fast feed' it. As I said, I hardly ever use 1.2mm
at all - even although it is to hand.

Everything from 1920s equipment to sm parts. Bulky joints such as flexes
onto connectors are a pain with fine solder, its just impractical to
feed fast and far enough with one hand.

I'd agree if you're repairing old stuff where the components are on tag
strips - or doing largish flex - is ok with larger stuff - but that surely
is a small part of contruction or repair these days?

For modern stuff, mostly. There are still jobs for the bigger solder & irons though.


NT

On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 01:57:24 -0800 (PST), wrote:

The OP will probably be buying a 25w non-thermostatic type iron

The OP has an Antex 25W iron; how did you know

If I wanted to upgrade my iron, what would you recommend?

TIA

On 24/02/13 11:47, Fred wrote:
On Sat, 23 Feb 2013 01:57:24 -0800 (PST), wrote:

The OP will probably be buying a 25w non-thermostatic type iron

The OP has an Antex 25W iron; how did you know

If I wanted to upgrade my iron, what would you recommend?

TIA

75W temp controlled.

There are dozens of reasonable ones around. If you really want a pro
piece of kit get a weller off ebay. A used weller is better than most
new irons and you will be able to get spare tips


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.