On Jan 17, 4:14*pm, Nightjar
wrote:
On 17/01/2013 15:46, Jonathan wrote:









On Jan 17, 3:43 pm, Nightjar
wrote:
On 17/01/2013 15:20, Jonathan wrote:

I want to try to make some flood gates for our doors and they are very
expensive to buy. I want to use some sort of fixing that I can screw
into the wooden door frames permanently. These would have a thread in
the centre that I could use to bolt through, I imagine, external
plywood to create a tight fit as needed.

I have never seen anything like that, apart from rawlbolts which are
not designed for wood so far as I know. Does anyone know of such a
thing, or have a better suggestion? Many thanks.

I used aluminium square U channel, bolted to the side walls either side
of the doorway, with a hole from front to rear, near the top. Matching
holes in the flood board allowed me quickly to drop the board (cut from
an old scaffolding board) into the channels and hold it in place with
metal pegs. I used rubber seals along the bottom and sides of the board
to make it reasonably water tight. That produced a quick to deploy first
line of defence, which could be backed up with sand bags behind the
board as time permitted.

As floods can happen at night, when most of us are asleep, I also fitted
a float switch outside, linked to an under dome bell, in order to give
enough warning to get up and put the boards in place.

Colin Bignell

I don't have enough depth of brick to attach the channels to,
otherwise sounds great. We get about four hours warning from the
environment agency.

Jonathan

We did have 18" thick stone walls. Back when I did that, flood warnings
depended upon the Police coming around with a loudspeaker vehicle and
they didn't always have enough warning to get to everybody.

BTW don't forget that, in most properties, water can get under the floor
through air bricks, so they need protection too.

Colin Bignell

I don't have air bricks but I do have a ground floor shower that water
might come through the drain. I haven't yet found the thing to block
that. Any ideas.

Jonathan

On 17/01/2013 16:36, Jonathan wrote:
On Jan 17, 4:14 pm, Nightjar
wrote:
On 17/01/2013 15:46, Jonathan wrote:









On Jan 17, 3:43 pm, Nightjar
wrote:
On 17/01/2013 15:20, Jonathan wrote:

I want to try to make some flood gates for our doors and they are very
expensive to buy. I want to use some sort of fixing that I can screw
into the wooden door frames permanently. These would have a thread in
the centre that I could use to bolt through, I imagine, external
plywood to create a tight fit as needed.

I have never seen anything like that, apart from rawlbolts which are
not designed for wood so far as I know. Does anyone know of such a
thing, or have a better suggestion? Many thanks.

I used aluminium square U channel, bolted to the side walls either side
of the doorway, with a hole from front to rear, near the top. Matching
holes in the flood board allowed me quickly to drop the board (cut from
an old scaffolding board) into the channels and hold it in place with
metal pegs. I used rubber seals along the bottom and sides of the board
to make it reasonably water tight. That produced a quick to deploy first
line of defence, which could be backed up with sand bags behind the
board as time permitted.

As floods can happen at night, when most of us are asleep, I also fitted
a float switch outside, linked to an under dome bell, in order to give
enough warning to get up and put the boards in place.

Colin Bignell

I don't have enough depth of brick to attach the channels to,
otherwise sounds great. We get about four hours warning from the
environment agency.

Jonathan

We did have 18" thick stone walls. Back when I did that, flood warnings
depended upon the Police coming around with a loudspeaker vehicle and
they didn't always have enough warning to get to everybody.

BTW don't forget that, in most properties, water can get under the floor
through air bricks, so they need protection too.

Colin Bignell

I don't have air bricks but I do have a ground floor shower that water
might come through the drain. I haven't yet found the thing to block
that. Any ideas.

Jonathan

Balloon filled with water?

On 17/01/2013 16:36, Jonathan wrote:
On Jan 17, 4:14 pm, Nightjar
....
I don't have air bricks but I do have a ground floor shower that water
might come through the drain. I haven't yet found the thing to block
that. Any ideas.

A length of steel pipe, larger ID than the OD of the drain, with a
flange on the bottom and a flexible seal on the flange? The weight of
the pipe should hold it in place while the water simply rises inside it.

Colin Bignell

On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 17:09:33 +0000, Nightjar wrote:

A length of steel pipe, larger ID than the OD of the drain, with a
flange on the bottom and a flexible seal on the flange? The weight of
the pipe should hold it in place while the water simply rises inside
it.

Might depends how much higher up the water is getting into the drains.
Remeber that hefty great cast iron road strength manhole covers can be
tossed aside by flooded drains... See artesian wells, same principle.

You can get one way valves to fit into the waste pipe to reduce the
backflow.

http://www.multifloodsolutions.co.uk...?info_id=93416
http://www.alumascdrainage.co.uk/har...rainage/7/c7.1
http://www.backwater-valves.com/

Just random examples from the first page of google "drain backflow
valve".

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 17/01/2013 20:42, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 17:09:33 +0000, Nightjar wrote:

A length of steel pipe, larger ID than the OD of the drain, with a
flange on the bottom and a flexible seal on the flange? The weight of
the pipe should hold it in place while the water simply rises inside
it.

Might depends how much higher up the water is getting into the drains.
Remeber that hefty great cast iron road strength manhole covers can be
tossed aside by flooded drains...

Which is why I was thinking of an open topped pipe, rather than trying
to seal the drain. I take your point about how much higher the water is
getting into the drains, but in my house the foul water drain is
connected to an open gulley outside the kitchen, so it wouldn't rise in
the pipe any higher than the water outside.

Colin Bignell

In article , Nightjar
writes
On 17/01/2013 20:42, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 17 Jan 2013 17:09:33 +0000, Nightjar wrote:

A length of steel pipe, larger ID than the OD of the drain, with a
flange on the bottom and a flexible seal on the flange? The weight of
the pipe should hold it in place while the water simply rises inside
it.

Might depends how much higher up the water is getting into the drains.
Remeber that hefty great cast iron road strength manhole covers can be
tossed aside by flooded drains...

Which is why I was thinking of an open topped pipe, rather than trying
to seal the drain. I take your point about how much higher the water is
getting into the drains, but in my house the foul water drain is
connected to an open gulley outside the kitchen, so it wouldn't rise in
the pipe any higher than the water outside.

Yes, that works when there's an equalised static pressure and the water
has found its own level. Consider also the state where moving water has
found its way into the drains and is under high dynamic pressure that
would find it jetting above the level of the pipe and potentially
disrupting the fit and seal.

To cope with those situations, I'd be looking at reverse flow prevention
devices _plus_ the precautions you advise.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .