I have to fix some 50 x 50 wood uprights to brickwork pillars ... using
10mm frame fixing where hole is reasonably centre of bricks.
Sods law for a couple of them the mortar perp is on the centreline.
Even if I offset hole ... the 10mm hole would be very close to edge of
brick.


Thought instead of in these instances fixing either side of perp with
something like a 5mm TapCon fixing ... as hole to be drilled is then
small diameter (5mm compared to 10mm)

Any view on TapCon ... or is there something better ... I can't use
chemical anchor as cant have stud showing fixing must be csk into wood.

Advice experience on TapCon, Thunderbolt, concrete screws, etc ?

On Oct 5, 1:28*pm, Rick Hughes
wrote:
I have to fix some 50 x 50 *wood uprights to brickwork pillars ... using
10mm frame fixing where hole is reasonably centre of bricks.
Sods law for a couple of them the mortar perp is on the centreline.
Even if I offset hole ... the 10mm hole would be very close to edge of
brick.

Thought instead of in these instances fixing either side of perp with
something like a 5mm TapCon fixing ... as hole to be drilled is then
small diameter (5mm compared to 10mm)

Any view on TapCon ... or is there something better ... I can't use
chemical anchor as cant have stud showing fixing must be csk into wood.

Looks like a lot of work and you are still on the joint.

Coudln't you use brackets to reach the centres of the bricks?
You could even knock some up out of old soup tins.

On 05/10/2012 17:01, Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Oct 5, 1:28 pm, Rick Hughes
wrote:
I have to fix some 50 x 50 wood uprights to brickwork pillars ... using
10mm frame fixing where hole is reasonably centre of bricks.
Sods law for a couple of them the mortar perp is on the centreline.
Even if I offset hole ... the 10mm hole would be very close to edge of
brick.

Thought instead of in these instances fixing either side of perp with
something like a 5mm TapCon fixing ... as hole to be drilled is then
small diameter (5mm compared to 10mm)

Any view on TapCon ... or is there something better ... I can't use
chemical anchor as cant have stud showing fixing must be csk into wood.

Looks like a lot of work and you are still on the joint.

Coudln't you use brackets to reach the centres of the bricks?
You could even knock some up out of old soup tins.


No maybe my description is wrong .... lower fixing allows me to use 10mm
frame anchors ... in some of the case the upper fixing if I drilled on
centreline of wood, is about 1/2" form the brick edge - i.e. near the
perp.... so no good.

However if instead I use a 'thin' fixing (such as Tapcon) and I could
fit theses and be at least 1" in from brick end

I know window installers use them all the time ... but never used them
myself.

On 05/10/2012 17:34, Rick Hughes wrote:
On 05/10/2012 17:01, Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Oct 5, 1:28 pm, Rick Hughes
wrote:
I have to fix some 50 x 50 wood uprights to brickwork pillars ... using
10mm frame fixing where hole is reasonably centre of bricks.
Sods law for a couple of them the mortar perp is on the centreline.
Even if I offset hole ... the 10mm hole would be very close to edge of
brick.

Thought instead of in these instances fixing either side of perp with
something like a 5mm TapCon fixing ... as hole to be drilled is then
small diameter (5mm compared to 10mm)

Any view on TapCon ... or is there something better ... I can't use
chemical anchor as cant have stud showing fixing must be csk into wood.

Looks like a lot of work and you are still on the joint.

Coudln't you use brackets to reach the centres of the bricks?
You could even knock some up out of old soup tins.


No maybe my description is wrong .... lower fixing allows me to use 10mm
frame anchors ... in some of the case the upper fixing if I drilled on
centreline of wood, is about 1/2" form the brick edge - i.e. near the
perp.... so no good.

However if instead I use a 'thin' fixing (such as Tapcon) and I could
fit theses and be at least 1" in from brick end

I know window installers use them all the time ... but never used them
myself.

Thunderbolts should do the jobs - zero expansion.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre...ors/d90/sd2040

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 05/10/2012 19:17, The Medway Handyman wrote:


Thunderbolts should do the jobs - zero expansion.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre...ors/d90/sd2040

My local fasteners place stock these ....

If for example I bought these in M8 x 100 .... is the fixing hole then
an M8 drill ?

Rick Hughes wrote:
I have to fix some 50 x 50 wood uprights to brickwork pillars ...
using 10mm frame fixing where hole is reasonably centre of bricks.
Sods law for a couple of them the mortar perp is on the centreline.
Even if I offset hole ... the 10mm hole would be very close to edge of
brick.


Thought instead of in these instances fixing either side of perp with
something like a 5mm TapCon fixing ... as hole to be drilled is then
small diameter (5mm compared to 10mm)

Any view on TapCon ... or is there something better ... I can't use
chemical anchor as cant have stud showing fixing must be csk into
wood.
Advice experience on TapCon, Thunderbolt, concrete screws, etc ?

Spax are about the best...I'd use 100mm so as to get 50mm+ bite, they're
7.5mm diameter, don't expand and they'll grip into just about anything.

http://www.simplyspax.co.uk/spax_ra_...chor_C169.html

On 05/10/2012 20:37, Rick Hughes wrote:
On 05/10/2012 19:17, The Medway Handyman wrote:


Thunderbolts should do the jobs - zero expansion.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Scre...ors/d90/sd2040

My local fasteners place stock these ....

If for example I bought these in M8 x 100 .... is the fixing hole then
an M8 drill ?

With the Toolstation ones yes.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Sat, 6 Oct 2012 15:08:38 +0100, "Phil L" wrote:

Rick Hughes wrote:
I have to fix some 50 x 50 wood uprights to brickwork pillars ...
using 10mm frame fixing where hole is reasonably centre of bricks.
Sods law for a couple of them the mortar perp is on the centreline.
Even if I offset hole ... the 10mm hole would be very close to edge of
brick.


Thought instead of in these instances fixing either side of perp with
something like a 5mm TapCon fixing ... as hole to be drilled is then
small diameter (5mm compared to 10mm)

Any view on TapCon ... or is there something better ... I can't use
chemical anchor as cant have stud showing fixing must be csk into
wood.
Advice experience on TapCon, Thunderbolt, concrete screws, etc ?

Spax are about the best...I'd use 100mm so as to get 50mm+ bite, they're
7.5mm diameter, don't expand and they'll grip into just about anything.

http://www.simplyspax.co.uk/spax_ra_...chor_C169.html

Or 6mm Tapcon CSK from screwfix
http://www.screwfix.com/p/spit-tapco...k-of-100/70165

But I don't think I've really understood your problem. I take it you're worried about
hitting the vertical mortar joints? In which case why can't you drop the screws to the
next course of bricks below (or above) where they would then be dead centre of brick? If
thats not an option how about raking out the vertical mortar and hammering in a wood wedge
- thats what the skirtings were nailed into in our victorian place. Then you can use cheap
woodscrews.

Another way is to rake out and refill with either new mortar or plaster, then when set
drill and plug and use woodscrews. You can also counterbore the uprights 1/2 way to allow
shorter screws. A bit fidley to get screws and plugs lined up, but do-able with some
forethought and careful measurement.

--
Phil Addison

On 07/10/2012 16:58, Phil Addison wrote:

But I don't think I've really understood your problem. I take it you're worried about
hitting the vertical mortar joints? In which case why can't you drop the screws to the
next course of bricks below (or above) where they would then be dead centre of brick? If
thats not an option how about raking out the vertical mortar and hammering in a wood wedge
- thats what the skirtings were nailed into in our victorian place. Then you can use cheap
woodscrews.

Another way is to rake out and refill with either new mortar or plaster, then when set
drill and plug and use woodscrews. You can also counterbore the uprights 1/2 way to allow
shorter screws. A bit fidley to get screws and plugs lined up, but do-able with some
forethought and careful measurement.

--
Phil Addison




No ... not quite ... the hole if on centerline of timber ... and would
be on mortar perp ..I'm concerned that the 'hole' even if I offset it in
the timber would be close to the end of the brick - and risk the end of
brick 'breaking off.

I have now gone and bought 'Thunderbolts' the 8mm hole went in OK ...
as long as they don't put sideways force on (as spec states) then all
should be fine.

Wood drilled, brick drilled ... wood treatment on last night ... will
have to wait to next weekend to fix.

On Mon, 08 Oct 2012 10:12:06 +0100, Rick Hughes
wrote:

On 07/10/2012 16:58, Phil Addison wrote:

But I don't think I've really understood your problem. I take it you're worried about
hitting the vertical mortar joints? In which case why can't you drop the screws to the
next course of bricks below (or above) where they would then be dead centre of brick? If
thats not an option how about raking out the vertical mortar and hammering in a wood wedge
- thats what the skirtings were nailed into in our victorian place. Then you can use cheap
woodscrews.

Another way is to rake out and refill with either new mortar or plaster, then when set
drill and plug and use woodscrews. You can also counterbore the uprights 1/2 way to allow
shorter screws. A bit fidley to get screws and plugs lined up, but do-able with some
forethought and careful measurement.

--
Phil Addison




No ... not quite ... the hole if on centerline of timber ... and would
be on mortar perp ..I'm concerned that the 'hole' even if I offset it in
the timber would be close to the end of the brick - and risk the end of
brick 'breaking off.

I have now gone and bought 'Thunderbolts' the 8mm hole went in OK ...
as long as they don't put sideways force on (as spec states) then all
should be fine.

Is it just me that can't understand Rick-speak? Has anyone worked out what he is doing and
what the problem is ...

Wood drilled, brick drilled ... wood treatment on last night ... will
have to wait to next weekend to fix.

.... (or was)?

--
Phil Addison