Hi all,

We are servicing Mums old CH system. It was a coal fired single pipe /
gravity jobby but was modified a few years back (30?) to be a fully
pumped system. with a wall mounted low capacity b/f boiler.

Today I tapped a 15mm draincock into one of the 1-1/4" brass elbows
[1] and whilst the system was drained down and because most of the
rad-valves were either showing signs of leaking or nearly impossible
to turn (impossible for Mum to turn) we went round them today,
removing, stripping, cleaning and re-fitting.

The only thing I'm not quite sure about is what to re-pack the glands
with?

The seem to be filled with a string of some sort and most came out
intact.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5772409/Rad...te%20valve.png

Some of them are gate-valve design (as linked above and tend to be
fitted at the tops of the rads) and the others are more like a
stopcock but with a free rotating metal 'cone' instead of a rubber
washer etc.

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

I used 'Plumbers Grease' on the actual screw threads (that's what they
gave me in the merchants).

Cheers, T i m


[1] Whoever upgraded the boiler removed the ability to drain the
system lower than the boiler return. ;-(

On 27/09/2012 23:56, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

Ah, see the Leaking Radiator Valve thread of 19/9/12

In summary, you can repack with string, hemp, or PTFE (tape or string)

Here is one way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqOF48XvkgA&feature=plcp

I do a variation of that and simply wind 15 turns or so around the
spindle with the tape roll held in such a way as the tape ends up
bunched rather than laying flat. Then snap it off, and force it down
into the gap with the gland nut. Nip it up a little bit so the tap still
turns freely, and that should do it. (you may need to experiment with
the right amount of tape for your glands - it will also vary depending
on if you rake out the old packing or just leave it and add some more on
top).

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

Hi all,


(snip)


So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

I used 'Plumbers Grease' on the actual screw threads (that's what they
gave me in the merchants).

Cheers, T i m


[1] Whoever upgraded the boiler removed the ability to drain the
system lower than the boiler return. ;-(



Gland packing (string) 99p per metre on Ebay.

Derekg

On Thursday, September 27, 2012 11:55:28 PM UTC+1, T i m wrote:
Hi all,



We are servicing Mums old CH system. It was a coal fired single pipe /

gravity jobby but was modified a few years back (30?) to be a fully

pumped system. with a wall mounted low capacity b/f boiler.



Today I tapped a 15mm draincock into one of the 1-1/4" brass elbows

[1] and whilst the system was drained down and because most of the

rad-valves were either showing signs of leaking or nearly impossible

to turn (impossible for Mum to turn) we went round them today,

removing, stripping, cleaning and re-fitting.



The only thing I'm not quite sure about is what to re-pack the glands

with?



The seem to be filled with a string of some sort and most came out

intact.



https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5772409/Rad...te%20valve.png



Some of them are gate-valve design (as linked above and tend to be

fitted at the tops of the rads) and the others are more like a

stopcock but with a free rotating metal 'cone' instead of a rubber

washer etc.



So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old

stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can

carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the

gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't

leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't

want to replace the lot). ;-)



I used 'Plumbers Grease' on the actual screw threads (that's what they

gave me in the merchants).



Cheers, T i m





[1] Whoever upgraded the boiler removed the ability to drain the

system lower than the boiler return. ;-(


Hemp. I'd expect nylon to do better though, nylon twine's common and cheap.


NT

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.
Or, use ptfe tape, twirled into a string and wound around the shaft.
I also use, in conjunction with the above, a grey Italian jointing
greasy non-setting putty. Never had a rebuilt one leak, unless the
shaft is too far gone.

On Sep 27, 11:55*pm, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

We are servicing Mums old CH system. It was a coal fired single pipe /
gravity jobby but was modified a few years back (30?) to be a fully
pumped system. with a wall mounted low capacity b/f boiler.

Today I tapped a 15mm draincock into one of the 1-1/4" brass elbows
[1] *and whilst the system was drained down and because most of the
rad-valves were either showing signs of leaking or nearly impossible
to turn (impossible for Mum to turn) we went round them today,
removing, stripping, cleaning and re-fitting.

The only thing I'm not quite sure about is what to re-pack the glands
with?

The seem to be filled with a string of some sort and most came out
intact.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5772409/Rad...te%20valve.png

Some of them are gate-valve design (as linked above and tend to be
fitted at the tops of the rads) and the others are more like a
stopcock but with a free rotating metal 'cone' instead of a rubber
washer etc.

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

I used 'Plumbers Grease' on the actual screw threads (that's what they
gave me in the merchants).

Cheers, T i m

[1] Whoever upgraded the boiler removed the ability to drain the
system lower than the boiler return. ;-(

You can buy valve stem packing at proper plumbers merchants.
It's made of PTFE these days. It won't go hard like the old stuff.
Don't put it in like a spring, you need separate little rings cut to
length with the joints staggered.
Don't be tempted to use PTFE tape either, it is quite unsuitable.

On Sep 28, 5:33*am, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.
Or, use ptfe tape, twirled into a string and wound around the shaft.
I also use, in conjunction with the above, a grey Italian jointing
greasy non-setting putty. Never had a rebuilt one leak, unless the
shaft is too far gone.

Cowboy tricks
None of the above should be used, especially on valves frequently
operated.
Hemp. will score the valve stem. Once it is scored the packing wears
out very quickly.
PTFE tape squeezes out of the packing box.

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 00:59:21 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 27/09/2012 23:56, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

Ah, see the Leaking Radiator Valve thread of 19/9/12

Ah, sorry about that. I do normally have a quick look but I assumed
people wouldn't do this sort of thing any more. I forgot this was
uk.d-i-y. ;-)

In summary, you can repack with string, hemp, or PTFE (tape or string)

Yup, I got that g (and have stripped and re-done 4 of 7 valves so
far) but as the local (old skool) plumbers merchant couldn't supply a
'new' replacement packing materiel (and he suggested I re-used the old
as it was in good nick considering), that's what I started to do.
However, preferring to do things 'right' if possible, I thought I'd
ask here.

Here is one way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqOF48XvkgA&feature=plcp

Hmmm, I'm not sure I'd want him fixing my stuff. Ok if there was an
actual leak I guess or until you drained the system fully.

I do a variation of that and simply wind 15 turns or so around the
spindle with the tape roll held in such a way as the tape ends up
bunched rather than laying flat. Then snap it off, and force it down
into the gap with the gland nut. Nip it up a little bit so the tap still
turns freely, and that should do it. (you may need to experiment with
the right amount of tape for your glands - it will also vary depending
on if you rake out the old packing or just leave it and add some more on
top).

Understood.

After reading all the replies here I did a more specific Google and
found quite a few people liking the 'Loctite 55'. This seems to be a
PTFE 'cord' that is probably not far off what some PTFE tape might end
up as once pushed inside the gland by the nut.

General thoughts though .....

These taps valves have been in use, potentially un-serviced for over
60 years and were obviously of good quality when they were made. Even
to the point where the gland packing collar is separate from the
tightening nut and you can adjust the nut over the top of the ferrule
that covers most of the hardware when in place (and you don't even
have to take the Bakelite knob off to do it). ;-)

Whatever was used for the packing hasn't marked any of the spindles
*at all* in 60 years.

Whatever was once the 'lube' in the 'string' (?) has just dried out
and therefore the 'string' hardened and therefore making the spindle
prone to leaking, or, if when tightened to prevent the leaking, made
the spindle much harder to turn due to there being no 'give' in the
packing.

So, ideally and especially if it didn't cost a lot (in time getting
the right stuff or money) to replace what was there with some of the
same, that would be ideal.

Now, in the real world Mum is 82 and we have loads of more important
things to do (for here and ourselves), so as long as she can turn
these things on and of (she's not 'frail as such' atm) and they don't
leak then I'm guessing that will 'do' (even though it goes against my
grain to some degree). (Possibly) 'Spoiling the ship for a hapenth of
tar' as my Dad used to say. Doing it right won't take any longer than
doing it nearly right, once you have the right materials. ;-)

So, in case I can easily find some suitable 'string', any idea what
lubricant I should use on it? ie, Is Boss White going to stay flexible
long enough? Silicone grease ... Plumbers Grease (or as I believe I
saw mentioned somewhere, a waterproof grease (I have some suitable
white grease for marine propeller shaft bearings that I got when I
savaged an irreparable washing machine (sealed plastic tub) 5 years
ago). ;-)

It's one of these things where it seems to be good gear in a great
condition and part of the reason for that condition is that it was
designed to be right (and last) in the first place.

So, what about a decent quality parcel string? I'm pretty sure the
sort of 'hot' that a radiator gets isn't hot enough to bother any type
of old skool / cotton(?) string?

Cheers and thanks again for all the replies and heads up guys. I could
end up using any of them. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 01:07:17 +0100, DerekG
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

Hi all,


(snip)


So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

I used 'Plumbers Grease' on the actual screw threads (that's what they
gave me in the merchants).

Cheers, T i m


[1] Whoever upgraded the boiler removed the ability to drain the
system lower than the boiler return. ;-(



Gland packing (string) 99p per metre on Ebay.

Thanks for that Derek but I can't seem to find anything that looks
small enough. I'm guessing what is in there now (when you find a good
bit) is between 2 and 3mm diameter?

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 20:47:49 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


Hemp. I'd expect nylon to do better though, nylon twine's common and cheap.

I have horrible recollections of removing nylon fishing like and
string from around my outboard motor proof shaft thrust bearings and
seeing just how much damage something so soft (nylon) can do to
something so hard (phosphor bronze). ;-(

Ok, these valve shafts won't be rotating so much or as fast but it is
still a good demonstration of such things in practice.

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:33:22 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.

Does it look like a long lock of a maidens hair (or horses tail), in
which case I've still got some from back then?

Or, use ptfe tape, twirled into a string and wound around the shaft.

Yeah, that looks like what that Loctite 55 is?

http://www.loctite55.co.uk/?FOLDERID=18065

I also use, in conjunction with the above, a grey Italian jointing
greasy non-setting putty. Never had a rebuilt one leak, unless the
shaft is too far gone.

Yeah, the 'lube' is a good question, depending on what packing
material you are using.

Like, if I was using a PTFE solution I don't think I'd lube it at all
(or the water would be the lube).

If it were hemp or string I think it would want to lubricate the
packing to shaft interface and seal between the 'fibres' of the
packing. It also ideally wants to remain flexible but not
was-away-able but not rot the material.

Even the old string packs back in ok ish, it's just that it's
obviously a bit hard in places and doesn't pack down as well as it did
when it was new / fresh.

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 00:30:11 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:


You can buy valve stem packing at proper plumbers merchants.

I (thought I) used a proper plumbers merchants (and they do seem to
come up with everything I ask about, no matter how old (within reason
of course).

It's made of PTFE these days. It won't go hard like the old stuff.

Ok.

Don't put it in like a spring, you need separate little rings cut to
length with the joints staggered.

Ok.

Don't be tempted to use PTFE tape either, it is quite unsuitable.

So that's Loctite 55 then?

http://www.loctite55.co.uk/?FOLDERID=18065

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 00:35:09 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

Cowboy tricks
None of the above should be used, especially on valves frequently
operated.
Hemp. will score the valve stem. Once it is scored the packing wears
out very quickly.
PTFE tape squeezes out of the packing box.

**** off, Harry.
I've used both successfully for many years and never had one leak.
Your experience of hospital steam valves doesn't bear directly on CH
valves.

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 15:35:51 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 00:35:09 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

Cowboy tricks None of the above should be used, especially on valves
frequently operated.
Hemp. will score the valve stem. Once it is scored the packing wears out
very quickly.
PTFE tape squeezes out of the packing box.

**** off, Harry.
I've used both successfully for many years and never had one leak. Your
experience of hospital steam valves doesn't bear directly on CH valves.

I was having a general Google and it's interesting when you read up on
the packing as used with something like a marine propeller shaft (where
some water leakage is *required* to provide lubrication and stop the
gland overheating) versus something like these rad valves where there is
little movement and you don't want them leaking at all.

(It is there where I have seen reference to cutting 'rings' rather than
use a spiral wrap as the packing material is quite a large section.)

Again, reading about I've also seen wool mentioned as a substitute for
the proper stuff. So, I'm wondering what properties are required where
they might suggest wool over say parcel or gardening string?

Undoing a couple of the valves I cleaned and re-packed yesterday, it
seems the original packing material does seem to pack down pretty hard,
so much so that you can slide it out like a metal sleeve. ;-)

I'm going to try a few different ways (I now have some Loctite 55 as
well) and will keep a note of what I've used where and see how they
compare over time.

Even if one solution doesn't work very well it won't be so difficult to
replace the failed material with the valve in place.

Cheers, T i m

On 28/09/2012 11:17, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 00:59:21 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 27/09/2012 23:56, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

Ah, see the Leaking Radiator Valve thread of 19/9/12

Ah, sorry about that. I do normally have a quick look but I assumed
people wouldn't do this sort of thing any more. I forgot this was
uk.d-i-y. ;-)

In summary, you can repack with string, hemp, or PTFE (tape or string)

Yup, I got that g (and have stripped and re-done 4 of 7 valves so
far) but as the local (old skool) plumbers merchant couldn't supply a
'new' replacement packing materiel (and he suggested I re-used the old
as it was in good nick considering), that's what I started to do.
However, preferring to do things 'right' if possible, I thought I'd
ask here.

Here is one way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqOF48XvkgA&feature=plcp

Hmmm, I'm not sure I'd want him fixing my stuff.

That particular vid was a tad kack handed, however he does do some
interesting things - with a rather "warts and all" production method.

Ok if there was an
actual leak I guess or until you drained the system fully.

There should be no need to drain for work on a top gland if the tap
itself still shuts off ok. They normally only leak when the tap is "on".

I do a variation of that and simply wind 15 turns or so around the
spindle with the tape roll held in such a way as the tape ends up
bunched rather than laying flat. Then snap it off, and force it down
into the gap with the gland nut. Nip it up a little bit so the tap still
turns freely, and that should do it. (you may need to experiment with
the right amount of tape for your glands - it will also vary depending
on if you rake out the old packing or just leave it and add some more on
top).

Understood.

After reading all the replies here I did a more specific Google and
found quite a few people liking the 'Loctite 55'. This seems to be a
PTFE 'cord' that is probably not far off what some PTFE tape might end
up as once pushed inside the gland by the nut.

Yup, cord is probably easier for this task, but ordinary tape works as
well... (I normally go for tape since I have copious reels of it and no
cord - which makes the decision making process easy ;-)

General thoughts though .....

[snip]

Now, in the real world Mum is 82 and we have loads of more important
things to do (for here and ourselves), so as long as she can turn
these things on and of (she's not 'frail as such' atm) and they don't
leak then I'm guessing that will 'do' (even though it goes against my
grain to some degree). (Possibly) 'Spoiling the ship for a hapenth of
tar' as my Dad used to say. Doing it right won't take any longer than
doing it nearly right, once you have the right materials. ;-)

and if it lasts another 60 years that will save doing it again in a
hurry ;-0

So, in case I can easily find some suitable 'string', any idea what
lubricant I should use on it? ie, Is Boss White going to stay flexible
long enough? Silicone grease ... Plumbers Grease (or as I believe I
saw mentioned somewhere, a waterproof grease (I have some suitable
white grease for marine propeller shaft bearings that I got when I
savaged an irreparable washing machine (sealed plastic tub) 5 years
ago). ;-)

Boss white tends to hardern IME... So a grease would be better. Not sure
it matters much what sort in this application since there are no rubbers
or plastics to degrade, and you won't be drinking from it.

It's one of these things where it seems to be good gear in a great
condition and part of the reason for that condition is that it was
designed to be right (and last) in the first place.

So, what about a decent quality parcel string? I'm pretty sure the
sort of 'hot' that a radiator gets isn't hot enough to bother any type
of old skool / cotton(?) string?

A string twisted out of some traditional hemp would probably work well.

Cheers and thanks again for all the replies and heads up guys. I could
end up using any of them. ;-)

or all at once, that should do it!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 28/09/2012 08:35, harry wrote:
On Sep 28, 5:33 am, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.
Or, use ptfe tape, twirled into a string and wound around the shaft.
I also use, in conjunction with the above, a grey Italian jointing
greasy non-setting putty. Never had a rebuilt one leak, unless the
shaft is too far gone.

Cowboy tricks
None of the above should be used, especially on valves frequently
operated.
Hemp. will score the valve stem. Once it is scored the packing wears
out very quickly.
PTFE tape squeezes out of the packing box.

All those words and not a hint of the "proper" solution (well harry's
version anyway).

(I wonder if he realises that many of the original ones were packed with
hemp and grease by the manufacturers)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 28/09/2012 11:41, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:33:22 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.

Does it look like a long lock of a maidens hair (or horses tail), in
which case I've still got some from back then?

Yup - mid brown like fine dry hair...




--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Sep 28, 3:35*pm, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 00:35:09 -0700 (PDT), harry

wrote:
Cowboy tricks
None of the above should be used, especially on valves frequently
operated.
Hemp. will score the valve stem. Once it is scored the packing wears
out very quickly.
PTFE tape squeezes out of the packing box.

**** off, Harry.
I've used both successfully for many years and never had one leak.
Your experience of hospital steam valves doesn't bear directly on CH
valves.

I have experience with virtually every type of valve.
This is the way it should be done. Apprentices learn this in the first
week.
http://www.dracomech.com/comppack/valveinstall.htm

On Sep 28, 4:03*pm, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 15:35:51 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 00:35:09 -0700 (PDT), harry
wrote:

Cowboy tricks None of the above should be used, especially on valves
frequently operated.
Hemp. will score the valve stem. Once it is scored the packing wears out
very quickly.
PTFE tape squeezes out of the packing box.

**** off, Harry.
I've used both successfully for many years and never had one leak. Your
experience of hospital steam valves doesn't bear directly on CH valves.

I was having a general Google and it's interesting when you read up on
the packing as used with something like a marine propeller shaft (where
some water leakage is *required* to provide lubrication and stop the
gland overheating) versus something like these rad valves where there is
little movement and you don't want them leaking at all.

(It is there where I have seen reference to cutting 'rings' rather than
use a spiral wrap as the packing material is quite a large section.)

Again, reading about I've also seen wool mentioned as a substitute for
the proper stuff. So, I'm wondering what properties are required where
they might suggest wool over say parcel or gardening string?

Undoing a couple of the valves I cleaned and re-packed yesterday, it
seems the original packing material does seem to pack down pretty hard,
so much so that you can slide it out like a metal sleeve. ;-)

I'm going to try a few different ways (I now have some Loctite 55 as
well) and will keep a note of what I've used where and see how they
compare over time.

Even if one solution doesn't work very well it won't be so difficult to
replace the failed material with the valve in place.

Cheers, T i m

Valve stems and motor shafts/propellor shafts need to be treated quite
differently.
If the packing is fitted to a revolving shaft, such as a water pump, a
small amount of water has to be permitted to escape to lubricate the
shaft.
New packing is fitted but not tightened down hard. The pump is run and
the gland nut/bolts tightened until about one drop of water escapes
ever thirty seconds or so. As the packing "beds in" it has to be
tightened, but always there must be the small amount of water leaking
out to lubricate the shaft.

Failure to do this results in the shaft overheating and being scored
and then no seal can be made.

On Sep 28, 4:19*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 28/09/2012 11:17, T i m wrote:









On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 00:59:21 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 27/09/2012 23:56, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

Ah, see the Leaking Radiator Valve thread of 19/9/12

Ah, sorry about that. I do normally have a quick look but I assumed
people wouldn't do this sort of thing any more. I forgot this was
uk.d-i-y. ;-)

In summary, you can repack with string, hemp, or PTFE (tape or string)

Yup, I got that g (and have stripped and re-done 4 of 7 valves so
far) but as the local (old skool) plumbers merchant couldn't supply a
'new' replacement packing materiel (and he suggested I re-used the old
as it was in good nick considering), that's what I started to do.
However, preferring to do things 'right' if possible, I thought I'd
ask here.

Here is one way:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqOF48XvkgA&feature=plcp

Hmmm, I'm not sure I'd want him fixing my stuff.

That particular vid was a tad kack handed, however he does do some
interesting things - with a rather "warts and all" production method.

Ok if there was an
actual leak I guess or until you drained the system fully.

There should be no need to drain for work on a top gland if the tap
itself still shuts off ok. They normally only leak when the tap is "on".

I do a variation of that and simply wind 15 turns or so around the
spindle with the tape roll held in such a way as the tape ends up
bunched rather than laying flat. Then snap it off, and force it down
into the gap with the gland nut. Nip it up a little bit so the tap still
turns freely, and that should do it. (you may need to experiment with
the right amount of tape for your glands - it will also vary depending
on if you rake out the old packing or just leave it and add some more on
top).

Understood.

After reading all the replies here I did a more specific Google and
found quite a few people liking the 'Loctite 55'. This seems to be a
PTFE 'cord' that is probably not far off what some PTFE tape might end
up as once pushed inside the gland by the nut.

Yup, cord is probably easier for this task, but ordinary tape works as
well... (I normally go for tape since I have copious reels of it and no
cord - which makes the decision making process easy ;-)

General thoughts though .....

[snip]

Now, in the real world Mum is 82 and we have loads of more important
things to do (for here and ourselves), so as long as she can turn
these things on and of (she's not 'frail as such' atm) and they don't
leak then I'm guessing that will 'do' (even though it goes against my
grain to some degree). (Possibly) *'Spoiling the ship for a hapenth of
tar' as my Dad used to say. Doing it right won't take any longer than
doing it nearly right, once you have the right materials. ;-)

and if it lasts another 60 years that will save doing it again in a
hurry ;-0

So, in case I can easily find some suitable 'string', any idea what
lubricant I should use on it? ie, Is Boss White going to stay flexible
long enough? Silicone grease ... Plumbers Grease (or as I believe I
saw *mentioned somewhere, a waterproof grease (I have some suitable
white grease for marine propeller shaft bearings that I got when I
savaged an irreparable washing machine (sealed plastic tub) 5 years
ago). ;-)

Boss white tends to hardern IME... So a grease would be better. Not sure
it matters much what sort in this application since there are no rubbers
or plastics to degrade, and you won't be drinking from it.

It's one of these things where it seems to be good gear in a great
condition and part of the reason for that condition is that it was
designed to be right (and last) in the first place.

So, what about a decent quality parcel string? I'm pretty sure the
sort of 'hot' that a radiator gets isn't hot enough to bother any type
of old skool / cotton(?) string?

A string twisted out of some traditional hemp would probably work well.

Cheers and thanks again for all the replies and heads up guys. I could
end up using any of them. ;-)

or all at once, that should do it!

--
Cheers,

John.

Complete ******** from begining to end.

On 28/09/2012 11:52, T i m wrote:


Don't be tempted to use PTFE tape either, it is quite unsuitable.

So that's Loctite 55 then?

http://www.loctite55.co.uk/?FOLDERID=18065

Cheers, T i m


That's what I would use (but then I have got some, and I wouldn't knock
John Rumm's method). It's *not* PTFE, it's nylon thread with PTFE as a
lubricant.

"Proper" separate chevron rings of packing are used in industrial-sized
valves, but not necessary for domestic water or CH.

On Sep 28, 4:22*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 28/09/2012 08:35, harry wrote:









On Sep 28, 5:33 am, Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.
Or, use ptfe tape, twirled into a string and wound around the shaft.
I also use, in conjunction with the above, a grey Italian jointing
greasy non-setting putty. Never had a rebuilt one leak, unless the
shaft is too far gone.

Cowboy tricks
None of the above should be used, especially on valves frequently
operated.
Hemp. will score the valve stem. Once it is scored the packing wears
out very quickly.
PTFE tape squeezes out of the packing box.

All those words and not a hint of the "proper" solution (well harry's
version anyway).

(I wonder if he realises that many of the original ones were packed with
hemp and grease by the manufacturers)

Hemp has never been use by the manufacturers in valve stem packing.
In days of your asbestos fibre square section packing was used
lubricated with graphite.
The modern equivalent is made of PTFE. NOT Cord but a woven square
section rope.

Hemp is only of use to seal pipe threads along with a paste of lead
oxide and linseed oil.
Substitutes were found for the lead oxide which were not revealed but
were allegedly non toxic. ("Boss white" and "Stag")

On Sep 28, 4:26*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 28/09/2012 11:41, T i m wrote:









On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:33:22 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.

Does it look like a long lock of a maidens hair (or horses tail), in
which case I've still got some from back then?

Yup - mid brown like fine dry hair...

--


You shouldn't spread misinformation on topics you have no
understanding of.

harry wrote Complete ******** from begining to end.

But then harry generally does.


--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

harry wrote:

You shouldn't spread misinformation on topics you have no
understanding of.

Pot, kettle, black.

--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 16:26:18 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

On 28/09/2012 11:41, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:33:22 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it
wouldn't leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum
doesn't want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.

Does it look like a long lock of a maidens hair (or horses tail), in
which case I've still got some from back then?

Yup - mid brown like fine dry hair...

Ok, then I do indeed have a 'hank' of that in my plumbing bag. ;-)

And I'm also aware that it is not without some odour as it has been
placed on my (bald) head many times by mates thinking it might improve my
look (and smell). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 17:09:23 +0100, newshound wrote:

On 28/09/2012 11:52, T i m wrote:


Don't be tempted to use PTFE tape either, it is quite unsuitable.

So that's Loctite 55 then?

http://www.loctite55.co.uk/?FOLDERID=18065

Cheers, T i m


That's what I would use (but then I have got some, and I wouldn't knock
John Rumm's method). It's *not* PTFE, it's nylon thread with PTFE as a
lubricant.

Ah! Thanks for the heads up.

"Proper" separate chevron rings of packing are used in industrial-sized
valves, but not necessary for domestic water or CH.

No, I couldn't see how you could possibly manage that at these diameters.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Another thought would be the use of a PTFE washer top and bottom and
a stack of suitably sized 'O' rings, lubricated suitably? Of course you
wouldn't apply anything like the tension on the top nut but ...

On 28/09/2012 17:09, harry wrote:

(I wonder if he realises that many of the original ones were packed with
hemp and grease by the manufacturers)

Hemp has never been use by the manufacturers in valve stem packing.

Hemp, flax, jute, cotton, and other natural fibres, plus synthetics like
PTFE, Aramid, and rubber like plastics, also various ali and cu foils
and meshes have, and are still, commonly used in gland seals.

In days of your asbestos fibre square section packing was used
lubricated with graphite.

Yup, that as well.

The modern equivalent is made of PTFE. NOT Cord but a woven square
section rope.

Also commonly used.

Hemp is only of use to seal pipe threads along with a paste of lead
oxide and linseed oil.

Its one use, but certainly not its only use. It can be used on non
threaded joints in cast iron downpipes, or caulking plank gaps on boats
for example.

Substitutes were found for the lead oxide which were not revealed but
were allegedly non toxic. ("Boss white" and "Stag")

Boss white is not suitable for wholesome water applications either - you
need something like Boss Green.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 28/09/2012 17:11, harry wrote:
On Sep 28, 4:26 pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 28/09/2012 11:41, T i m wrote:









On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:33:22 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.

Does it look like a long lock of a maidens hair (or horses tail), in
which case I've still got some from back then?

Yup - mid brown like fine dry hair...

--


You shouldn't spread misinformation on topics you have no
understanding of.

Has dribble started posting as harry? (I know it was not always easy to
tell them apart at the best of times!)

Harry, why post stuff that is so trivial to invalidate?

Lets see what plumbers hemp looks like shall we?

Here you go:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=pl...12 52&bih=792


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 28/09/2012 18:18, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 16:26:18 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

On 28/09/2012 11:41, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 05:33:22 +0100, Grimly Curmudgeon
wrote:

On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it
wouldn't leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum
doesn't want to replace the lot). ;-)

You can still get plumber's hemp on a roll.

Does it look like a long lock of a maidens hair (or horses tail), in
which case I've still got some from back then?

Yup - mid brown like fine dry hair...

Ok, then I do indeed have a 'hank' of that in my plumbing bag. ;-)

And I'm also aware that it is not without some odour as it has been
placed on my (bald) head many times by mates thinking it might improve my
look (and smell). ;-)

Yet another reason not to use it on drinking water taps then ;-)

Still will be ok on a rad valve.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 28/09/2012 18:22, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 17:09:23 +0100, newshound wrote:

On 28/09/2012 11:52, T i m wrote:


Don't be tempted to use PTFE tape either, it is quite unsuitable.

So that's Loctite 55 then?

http://www.loctite55.co.uk/?FOLDERID=18065

Cheers, T i m


That's what I would use (but then I have got some, and I wouldn't knock
John Rumm's method). It's *not* PTFE, it's nylon thread with PTFE as a
lubricant.

Ah! Thanks for the heads up.

"Proper" separate chevron rings of packing are used in industrial-sized
valves, but not necessary for domestic water or CH.

No, I couldn't see how you could possibly manage that at these diameters.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Another thought would be the use of a PTFE washer top and bottom and
a stack of suitably sized 'O' rings, lubricated suitably? Of course you
wouldn't apply anything like the tension on the top nut but ...

Just how complicated are you trying to make this? Wind something round
it and do the nut up!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In message , DerekG
writes
On Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:56:17 +0100, T i m wrote:

Hi all,


(snip)


So, what to do about the gland packing. I've tried running the old
stuff though some Boss White and it softens up a bit and I can
carefully feed it back in (but can't get it all back in) and once the
gland nut is nipped up it all feels much smoother and like it wouldn't
leak, but is there a 'proper' solution please (and no, Mum doesn't
want to replace the lot). ;-)

I used 'Plumbers Grease' on the actual screw threads (that's what they
gave me in the merchants).

Cheers, T i m


[1] Whoever upgraded the boiler removed the ability to drain the
system lower than the boiler return. ;-(



Gland packing (string) 99p per metre on Ebay.

Thin garden twine (hemp, and usually green) works well. Best to dig out
some of the old grot first, and also lubricate with silicone grease (or
other thickish grease).
--
Ian

Hokum and Oakum!



--
Ineptocracy

(in-ep-toc-ra-cy) €“ a system of government where the least capable to
lead are elected by the least capable of producing, and where the
members of society least likely to sustain themselves or succeed, are
rewarded with goods and services paid for by the confiscated wealth of a
diminishing number of producers.

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 16:19:12 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

snip

Ok if there was an
actual leak I guess or until you drained the system fully.

There should be no need to drain for work on a top gland if the tap
itself still shuts off ok. They normally only leak when the tap is "on".

I understand there are some (many?) taps that effectively isolate the
gland when the tape is in the fully 'open' position but I'm not sure
if these are they.

snip

and if it lasts another 60 years that will save doing it again in a
hurry ;-0

Quite (and sorta my ethic on stuff in general, even if I'm never going
to appreciate my efforts). ;-)

So, in case I can easily find some suitable 'string', any idea what
lubricant I should use on it? ie, Is Boss White going to stay flexible
long enough? Silicone grease ... Plumbers Grease (or as I believe I
saw mentioned somewhere, a waterproof grease (I have some suitable
white grease for marine propeller shaft bearings that I got when I
savaged an irreparable washing machine (sealed plastic tub) 5 years
ago). ;-)

Boss white tends to hardern IME... So a grease would be better.

That was my background thought (but I wasn't sure how long it would
take to harden).

Not sure
it matters much what sort in this application since there are no rubbers
or plastics to degrade,

True.

and you won't be drinking from it.

Ah. ;-)

It's one of these things where it seems to be good gear in a great
condition and part of the reason for that condition is that it was
designed to be right (and last) in the first place.

So, what about a decent quality parcel string? I'm pretty sure the
sort of 'hot' that a radiator gets isn't hot enough to bother any type
of old skool / cotton(?) string?

A string twisted out of some traditional hemp would probably work well.

Any idea what 'Jute' string is?

Cheers and thanks again for all the replies and heads up guys. I could
end up using any of them. ;-)

or all at once, that should do it!

Well, funny you should say that. I'm now trying different solutions on
different taps and keeping a record of what I did where. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 19:57:36 +0100, Ian Jackson
wrote:


Thin garden twine (hemp, and usually green) works well.

Mum had a tin of 'Garden twine' but it was brown and looked the same
as a roll of stuff I bought earlier from Homebase as 'Jute' heavy duty
parcel string?

Best to dig out
some of the old grot first,

Yeah, I'm stripping the whole valve down to clean a lube in any case.

and also lubricate with silicone grease (or
other thickish grease).

I've tried 'Plumbers grease' and a heavy white waterproof grease so
far.

Some Googling suggested 'wool' and 'petroleum jelly' as well. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 19:33:37 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:


Lets see what plumbers hemp looks like shall we?

Here you go:

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=pl...12 52&bih=792

http://www.caulfieldindustrial.com/p.../15-212D_L.jpg

Yup, those hanks are what I have one of.

So, what are the properties of hemp that make it so good for these
roles do you know OOI?

Cheers, T i m

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 19:35:14 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:


And I'm also aware that it is not without some odour as it has been
placed on my (bald) head many times by mates thinking it might improve my
look (and smell). ;-)

Yet another reason not to use it on drinking water taps then ;-)

Still will be ok on a rad valve.

I'll add it to my test range then. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Any idea why the valves at the tops of the rads seem to be gate
valve types but those at the bottoms are a rotateable cone type (only
valve / rad)?

Also, is there a technique for screwing the gate valve bodies back on
when the two components have complementary threads (like a
bottle-screw).

Ie, if you unscrew the gate from the stem and the stem from the body,
the body thread will change as you screw the thing back together?

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5772409/Rad...ve%20close.png

The picture doesn't show it well but the 'gate' bit unscrews with a
counter thread to the man thread, so the two work together to reduce
the number of turns from open to closed.

I think I counted the number of turns to screw the tap into the
housing and then subtracted that from the turns of the spindle though
body?

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 19:36:55 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:


p.s. Another thought would be the use of a PTFE washer top and bottom and
a stack of suitably sized 'O' rings, lubricated suitably? Of course you
wouldn't apply anything like the tension on the top nut but ...

Just how complicated are you trying to make this?

I'm not, I can't help it if I find such things interesting!

Wind something round
it and do the nut up!

Ah, but you see, it isn't as straightforward as that is it? weg

ie, If there isn't enough 'something' then it easily compresses and
the collet under the nut is then sitting on it's shoulder.

If you try and push more 'something' in there it's difficult to get
the collet on and the nut engaging to start with.

Even using the original / fairy compressed 'string', nipping up the
nut with a spanner, winding the spindle up and down and then testing
the nut again means you can undo (and sometimes) do it up further with
your fingers?

And 'done up' needs to be sufficiently turnable so that it doesn't
leak and an 80+ yr old can still do it on 7 taps. This gorilla being
able to turn it is no test. ;-(

But, I'm there, she's not, it's interesting and I'm enjoying myself
and that's the spirit of d-i-y after all eh. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 28/09/2012 23:17, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 16:19:12 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

snip

Ok if there was an
actual leak I guess or until you drained the system fully.

There should be no need to drain for work on a top gland if the tap
itself still shuts off ok. They normally only leak when the tap is "on".

I understand there are some (many?) taps that effectively isolate the
gland when the tape is in the fully 'open' position but I'm not sure
if these are they.

Possibly not - yours look like more of a gate valve design than a more
traditional tap arrangement. Only way to be sure is to try and see.
(gate valves have a bit of a habit of allowing seepage at the best of
times, although for this application that does not really matter unless
you want to remove a rad for decorating).

and if it lasts another 60 years that will save doing it again in a
hurry ;-0

Quite (and sorta my ethic on stuff in general, even if I'm never going
to appreciate my efforts). ;-)

So, in case I can easily find some suitable 'string', any idea what
lubricant I should use on it? ie, Is Boss White going to stay flexible
long enough? Silicone grease ... Plumbers Grease (or as I believe I
saw mentioned somewhere, a waterproof grease (I have some suitable
white grease for marine propeller shaft bearings that I got when I
savaged an irreparable washing machine (sealed plastic tub) 5 years
ago). ;-)

Boss white tends to hardern IME... So a grease would be better.

That was my background thought (but I wasn't sure how long it would
take to harden).

Not sure
it matters much what sort in this application since there are no rubbers
or plastics to degrade,

True.

and you won't be drinking from it.

Ah. ;-)

It's one of these things where it seems to be good gear in a great
condition and part of the reason for that condition is that it was
designed to be right (and last) in the first place.

So, what about a decent quality parcel string? I'm pretty sure the
sort of 'hot' that a radiator gets isn't hot enough to bother any type
of old skool / cotton(?) string?

A string twisted out of some traditional hemp would probably work well.

Any idea what 'Jute' string is?

a n other natural fibre - similar to hemp and flax etc.


Cheers and thanks again for all the replies and heads up guys. I could
end up using any of them. ;-)

or all at once, that should do it!

Well, funny you should say that. I'm now trying different solutions on
different taps and keeping a record of what I did where. ;-)

Report back in a decade, which worked best!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 28/09/2012 23:40, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 19:35:14 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:


And I'm also aware that it is not without some odour as it has been
placed on my (bald) head many times by mates thinking it might improve my
look (and smell). ;-)

Yet another reason not to use it on drinking water taps then ;-)

Still will be ok on a rad valve.

I'll add it to my test range then. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. Any idea why the valves at the tops of the rads seem to be gate
valve types but those at the bottoms are a rotateable cone type (only
valve / rad)?

Gate valves are often slated for many jobs, but are actually well suited
to applications where you want to throttle the flow of a fluid. So in
the roll of a traditional "set and forget" lockshield valve they will
work well. For the tap that will be used for more frequent (potentially)
manual control of the rad, a more traditional tap style arrangement will
be better.

Also, is there a technique for screwing the gate valve bodies back on
when the two components have complementary threads (like a
bottle-screw).

Ie, if you unscrew the gate from the stem and the stem from the body,
the body thread will change as you screw the thing back together?

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/5772409/Rad...ve%20close.png

The picture doesn't show it well but the 'gate' bit unscrews with a
counter thread to the man thread, so the two work together to reduce
the number of turns from open to closed.

Possibly a bit over designed for a rad valve ;-)

I think I counted the number of turns to screw the tap into the
housing and then subtracted that from the turns of the spindle though
body?

What if you screw the tap spindle up to the fully open position, then
screw the gate on snugly?


--
Cheers,

John.

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