An old (30+ years) radiator valve is leaking slowly. I seem to remember
from somewhere that you can remove the spindle to replace the O-rings
without shutting down or draining the system. Is this the case?
(Presumably the valve is held closed by water pressure - possible??)

Yes or no?
Frank

On 19/09/2012 12:57, Frank wrote:
An old (30+ years) radiator valve is leaking slowly. I seem to remember
from somewhere that you can remove the spindle to replace the O-rings
without shutting down or draining the system. Is this the case?
(Presumably the valve is held closed by water pressure - possible??)

Yes or no?

Sometimes just tightening the top nut on the spindle will stop it
(although sometimes you need to do it so much the tap won't turn then).
In which case you need to repack the spindle gland.

Sort of ;-)

If you close the valve, then that should prevent the water from reaching
the spindle. Depending on the valve design, you may also need to drain
the rad itself though.

To repack the spindle gland you can either go the traditional route with
some hemp and a bit of grease, or you can use PTFE tape. With the
latter, wind a few turns on the spindle itself (with the tape bunched
rather than flat), then push it down into the gland, wind a few more
turns and repeat until its nicely stuffed, then stick the nut back on
and tighten.

IIRC there is a video somewhere of this... ah, try this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqOF48XvkgA&feature=plcp


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
On 19/09/2012 12:57, Frank wrote:
An old (30+ years) radiator valve is leaking slowly. I seem to remember
from somewhere that you can remove the spindle to replace the O-rings
without shutting down or draining the system. Is this the case?
(Presumably the valve is held closed by water pressure - possible??)

Yes or no?

Sometimes just tightening the top nut on the spindle will stop it
(although sometimes you need to do it so much the tap won't turn then). In
which case you need to repack the spindle gland.

Sort of ;-)

If you close the valve, then that should prevent the water from reaching
the spindle. Depending on the valve design, you may also need to drain the
rad itself though.

To repack the spindle gland you can either go the traditional route with
some hemp and a bit of grease, or you can use PTFE tape. With the latter,
wind a few turns on the spindle itself (with the tape bunched rather than
flat), then push it down into the gland, wind a few more turns and repeat
until its nicely stuffed, then stick the nut back on and tighten.

IIRC there is a video somewhere of this... ah, try this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqOF48XvkgA&feature=plcp

I've no idea if this is a 'good idea', or not, but something that has worked
well for me is to pack it full of Boss Green (I've had a single pot
seemingly for ever, and it will probably outlast me) under the nut. I've
had to do it to several valves in my house, and none has yet leaked since.
I expect that Plumber's Mait (did I mis-spell it correctly?) would work,
too.

On Sep 19, 12:57*pm, Frank wrote:
An old (30+ years) radiator valve is leaking slowly. *I seem to remember
from somewhere that you can remove the spindle to replace the O-rings
without shutting down or draining the system. Is this the case?
(Presumably the valve is held closed by water pressure - possible??)

Yes or no?
Frank


Older valves had packing round the spindle. If there is a hex nut
round the spindle it might tighten & stop the leak unless the
packinghas gone hard.
Theoretically most valve have a back seat so if they are fully open
the packing can be renewed. Often corrosion makes the back seat leak.

Newer valves have O rings (no hex nut). Usually replacing the O ring
fixesthe problem for a short time only. Only a little wear/corrosion
defeats an O ring.
If the valve is 30 years old you are prob. better to replace it.

On 19/09/2012 16:30, Georg von Krapp wrote:


I've no idea if this is a 'good idea', or not, but something that has worked
well for me is to pack it full of Boss Green (I've had a single pot
seemingly for ever, and it will probably outlast me) under the nut. I've
had to do it to several valves in my house, and none has yet leaked since.
I expect that Plumber's Mait (did I mis-spell it correctly?) would work,
too.

Not really a good idea. They're fine for sealing joints, but not really
meant for things which have to move.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
On 19/09/2012 16:30, Georg von Krapp wrote:


I've no idea if this is a 'good idea', or not, but something that has
worked
well for me is to pack it full of Boss Green (I've had a single pot
seemingly for ever, and it will probably outlast me) under the nut. I've
had to do it to several valves in my house, and none has yet leaked
since.
I expect that Plumber's Mait (did I mis-spell it correctly?) would work,
too.

Not really a good idea. They're fine for sealing joints, but not really
meant for things which have to move.

Yes, I do sort of avoid adjusting them (and I don't often get the urge to,
anyway), since I can imagine it being more likely to get pushed out past the
stem. But I'd just fill it up again

In article , John
Rumm writes

IIRC there is a video somewhere of this... ah, try this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqOF48XvkgA&feature=plcp

Class act! What a character.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

fred wrote in :

In article , John
Rumm writes

IIRC there is a video somewhere of this... ah, try this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqOF48XvkgA&feature=plcp

Class act! What a character.

I can't understand why he is keeping some tails of the PTFE and getting it
into the thread. If I do this I always wind it round and stuff it all down
in the housing before fitting the packing nut.

I will try that "fix" as soon as I've finished reading this thread!
Thanks
Frank

On 19/09/2012 13:54, John Rumm wrote:
On 19/09/2012 12:57, Frank wrote:
An old (30+ years) radiator valve is leaking slowly. I seem to remember
from somewhere that you can remove the spindle to replace the O-rings
without shutting down or draining the system. Is this the case?
(Presumably the valve is held closed by water pressure - possible??)

Yes or no?

Sometimes just tightening the top nut on the spindle will stop it
(although sometimes you need to do it so much the tap won't turn then).
In which case you need to repack the spindle gland.

Sort of ;-)

If you close the valve, then that should prevent the water from reaching
the spindle. Depending on the valve design, you may also need to drain
the rad itself though.

To repack the spindle gland you can either go the traditional route with
some hemp and a bit of grease, or you can use PTFE tape. With the
latter, wind a few turns on the spindle itself (with the tape bunched
rather than flat), then push it down into the gland, wind a few more
turns and repeat until its nicely stuffed, then stick the nut back on
and tighten.

IIRC there is a video somewhere of this... ah, try this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqOF48XvkgA&feature=plcp

On 20/09/2012 10:44, Frank wrote:

I will try that "fix" as soon as I've finished reading this thread!

If its a consolation, after writing that I though I really ought to
actually go and do that on my garden tap since that leaks from the gland.

Only took five mins and worked a treat ;-)

Just wound a dozen or so turns run the spindle under the gland nut, and
then a couple of turns on the nut thread itself for good measure. Use
the nut to push the PTFE into the gap, and did it up a few turns.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 19/09/2012 12:57, Frank wrote:
An old (30+ years) radiator valve is leaking slowly. I seem to remember
from somewhere that you can remove the spindle to replace the O-rings
without shutting down or draining the system. Is this the case?
(Presumably the valve is held closed by water pressure - possible??)

Yes or no?
Frank

I used the !"pach it with PTFE tape" technique which worked fine. I have
a question about that though. Is the leak really at the point where the
packing acts? I thought the purpose of the O-ring there was to prevent
the spindle being able to rise under pressure. It also determined how
stiff the tap was to turn. The actual leak is further down the spindle.
(I don't have a lot of idea what I am talking about!!)

The valve is fixed - so great.
Frank

On 21/09/2012 19:06, Frank wrote:


I used the !"pach it with PTFE tape" technique which worked fine. I have
a question about that though. Is the leak really at the point where the
packing acts? I thought the purpose of the O-ring there was to prevent
the spindle being able to rise under pressure. It also determined how
stiff the tap was to turn. The actual leak is further down the spindle.

The spindle won't rise under pressure. The lower part (the part inside
the valve, which you can't see) is threaded, and moves the working part
of the valve nearer to or further from the seat as the spindle is
rotated. Because there is water inside the valve, but the spindle has to
emerge into fresh air to enable a hand-wheel to be attached to it, there
needs to be some sort of seal round the spindle to prevent water from
leaking out. On newer valves, this is provided by an 'O' ring. On older
valves, like yours, the seal is in the form of a gland - compressible
material round the shaft, which is compressed by doing up the gland nut
so as to fit tightly round the shaft. Over time, this wears to the
extent that fully tightening the nut is insufficient to re-make the
seal. This is when you have to resort to adding additional packing - be
it hemp, string, or PTFE tape.


(I don't have a lot of idea what I am talking about!!)


At least you're honest!
--
Cheers,
Roger
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