Hi,
Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top of
the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for off,
fairly basic stuff).


I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?

Or is it just a washer?

Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.

Any help or advice appreciated.
Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it sets in
ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with the inner tube
thing?

Looks disconcertingly like one of these-

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/85665/...010&source=aw#

Bazzer Smith wrote:
Hi,
Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top of
the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for off,
fairly basic stuff).


I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?

Or is it just a washer?

Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.

Any help or advice appreciated.
Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it sets in
ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with the inner tube
thing?

Looks disconcertingly like one of these-

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/85665/...010&source=aw#


Try tightening the gland nut. this is the small hex nut under the
plastic knob.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bazzer Smith wrote:

Hi,
Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
off, fairly basic stuff).


I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?


It will be a 15mm pipe.


Or is it just a washer?

Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.

Any help or advice appreciated.
Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
the inner tube thing?

A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the white
cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and off, is
there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the spindle? If so,
under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to form a
seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit may be
sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve off and
then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the spindle and
replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's housing, and
tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.

If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland nuts -
you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced. If that is
the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to be drained.
Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your questions
suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which case it may be
safer to pay a plumber to do it.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bazzer Smith wrote:

Hi,
Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
off, fairly basic stuff).


I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?


It will be a 15mm pipe.


Or is it just a washer?

Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.

Any help or advice appreciated.
Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
the inner tube thing?

A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the white
cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and off, is
there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the spindle?

Yes I noticed one there, I tried to turn it using a mobile wrench but it
seemed
fairly stiff so I didn't try too hard, I need to try with a proper spanner
or I will
bugger the nut.

If so, under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to
form a seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit may
be sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve off
and then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the spindle
and replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's housing, and
tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.

I will have a go at that, tomorrow, I've got most of the water leaking into
a bowl
upstairs now, just a small drip into the kitchen so it should be fine untill
then.
Thanks for your help.


If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland nuts -
you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced. If that
is the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to be
drained. Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your
questions suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which
case it may be safer to pay a plumber to do it.

I don't really have much skills but I have done a few bits and bobs myself
before.
Anyway my brother is a gas fitter I will give him a call if necessary.

--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

"Bazzer Smith" wrote in message
...

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bazzer Smith wrote:

Hi,
Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
off, fairly basic stuff).


I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?


It will be a 15mm pipe.


Or is it just a washer?

Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.

Any help or advice appreciated.
Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
the inner tube thing?

A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the white
cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and off,
is there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the spindle?

Yes I noticed one there, I tried to turn it using a mobile wrench but it
seemed
fairly stiff so I didn't try too hard, I need to try with a proper spanner
or I will
bugger the nut.

If so, under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to
form a seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit
may be sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve
off and then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the
spindle and replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's
housing, and tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.

I will have a go at that, tomorrow, I've got most of the water leaking
into a bowl
upstairs now, just a small drip into the kitchen so it should be fine
untill then.
Thanks for your help.


If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland
nuts - you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced.
If that is the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to
be drained. Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your
questions suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which
case it may be safer to pay a plumber to do it.

I don't really have much skills but I have done a few bits and bobs myself
before.
Anyway my brother is a gas fitter I will give him a call if necessary.

--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!




If it won't tighten then follow the previous instructions about using string
(although I would prefer twisted PTFE tape).

"John" wrote in message
...

"Bazzer Smith" wrote in message
...

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bazzer Smith wrote:

Hi,
Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
off, fairly basic stuff).


I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?


It will be a 15mm pipe.


Or is it just a washer?

Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.

Any help or advice appreciated.
Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
the inner tube thing?

A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the
white cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and
off, is there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the
spindle?

Yes I noticed one there, I tried to turn it using a mobile wrench but it
seemed
fairly stiff so I didn't try too hard, I need to try with a proper
spanner or I will
bugger the nut.

If so, under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to
form a seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit
may be sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve
off and then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the
spindle and replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's
housing, and tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.

I will have a go at that, tomorrow, I've got most of the water leaking
into a bowl
upstairs now, just a small drip into the kitchen so it should be fine
untill then.
Thanks for your help.


If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland
nuts - you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced.
If that is the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to
be drained. Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your
questions suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which
case it may be safer to pay a plumber to do it.

I don't really have much skills but I have done a few bits and bobs
myself before.
Anyway my brother is a gas fitter I will give him a call if necessary.

--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!




If it won't tighten then follow the previous instructions about using
string (although I would prefer twisted PTFE tape).

Well I decided to 'bite the bullet and have a look at it tonight.
I had left the valve open which I decided was a bad idea so I need
to remove my cycle innertube and string bandage anyway.
I though I would have a go at loosening that nut as I now had the right
spanner, I figured I would be OK not draining the system with the valve
closed so there was not too much water.
Anyway I got it off and had a look at it as it was seeping water.
Fortunately I remembered my brother had left me some PTFE tape!
I had never used the stuff before so it was a but weird, not sticky
as I expected but anyway I wrapped it around the spindle a bit as instructed
and put the nut back on and tightened it up. Much to my relief it stopped
leaking!! Seems as dry as a bone now and there is no leak in the kitched.
I have left the valve closed for now I will try opening it tomorrow I
hope/expect it will be OK. I'm lucky the weather is a bit better as I can
leave
the radiator off for now.
Magic stuff that ptfe tape! Saved me a trip to B&Q I hope!

Thanks very much to everyone for their help, much appreciated!!

"Roger Mills" wrote in message
...
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bazzer Smith wrote:

Hi,
Upstairs radiator has started leaking slightly from the ftom the top
of the valve which switches it on and off (twist down for on up for
off, fairly basic stuff).


I am wondering what to do, I suppose I will have to buy as similar
valve, old one is compression about 14mm pipe?


It will be a 15mm pipe.


Or is it just a washer?

Suppose I have to drain them by tying up the ballcock in the
hot water tank? Or is that just for the hot water?
Are the rads on a different circuit? Fairly standard setup
Glow worm boiler 25 years old ish.

Any help or advice appreciated.
Can't do anything now as it's too late at night,
I tried to stop the leak by tieing a bit off bicycle
innertube over the valvehead and binding it with string to
the pipe then tieing it up above the head but that didin't work well.
I also have some 'plastic padding' leak fix, stuff you mix and it
sets in ten mins, I guess I could have tried using some of that with
the inner tube thing?

A lot depends on the construction of the valve. When you remove the white
cap to reveal the spindle which has to be turned to turn it on and off, is
there a nut - about 1/2" across the flats - surrounding the spindle? If
so, under the nut is some compressible material which is supposed to form
a seal, and stop water from leaking out. Tightening the nut a bit may be
sufficient to stop the leak. If that doesn't work, turn the valve off and
then remove the nut. Then wind a bit of thin string round the spindle and
replace the nut - pushing the string down into the nut's housing, and
tighten the nut onto it. That should fix it.

If there isn't a nut - and some more recent valves don't have gland nuts -
you can't do that, and the whole valve will have to be replaced. If that
is the case, the radiator and some of the pipework will need to be
drained. Whilst this can be done by a competent DIY-er, some of your
questions suggest that you may not have the necessary skills, in which
case it may be safer to pay a plumber to do it.



Thanks very much for your help it seems to be sorted now as explained
in my my reply to John. I did have some PTFE tape and it seems to have
done the trick!!

--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!