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Default TRV recommendation

Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.
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Fredxx writes:
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.


Dryton/Invensys TRV4

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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On 03/09/2012 00:59, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Fredxx writes:
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.


Dryton/Invensys TRV4


Many thanks for the idea. I should have added SWMBO would like white ones!!

What is the performance of the no-name varieties which start at £5 or
so? Is there a difference? They all seem to use the same technology.
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On 03/09/2012 00:59, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Fredxx writes:
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.


Dryton/Invensys TRV4


I was told recently that the Drayton patents have expired now, so there
are some decent copies about... Not sure how well they work yet, but I
have some K-Therm branded ones here to try.


--
Cheers,

John.

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On Sep 3, 12:24*am, Fredxx wrote:
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.



You might consider getting the ones with remote sensors.
These work much better than the "normal" ones as they are not
influenced by the nearby radiator.
They cost more.

Same valve but the sensor is on the end of a capilliary tube. Contol
knob is on the sensor.


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On 03/09/2012 09:01, harry wrote:
On Sep 3, 12:24 am, Fredxx wrote:
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.



You might consider getting the ones with remote sensors.
These work much better than the "normal" ones as they are not
influenced by the nearby radiator.
They cost more.

Same valve but the sensor is on the end of a capilliary tube. Contol
knob is on the sensor.


Many thanks.

I've felt that the capillary tube is a bit vulnerable on these, and
while they are better, cost and ease of fitting are also an issue.
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On 03/09/2012 01:11, Fredxx wrote:
On 03/09/2012 00:59, Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
Fredxx writes:
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.


Dryton/Invensys TRV4


Many thanks for the idea. I should have added SWMBO would like white
ones!!



Now available in white!

http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/o...3092012284.jpg


--
David

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"Fredxx" wrote in message
...
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.


how about one of these:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:TVR_Chimaera.jpg





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On 03/09/2012 14:31, tim..... wrote:

"Fredxx" wrote in message
...
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.


how about one of these:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:TVR_Chimaera.jpg


Nice but not within the budget, shame it's a TVR, not a TRV!
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In article ,
Fredxx writes:
On 03/09/2012 09:01, harry wrote:
On Sep 3, 12:24 am, Fredxx wrote:
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.



You might consider getting the ones with remote sensors.
These work much better than the "normal" ones as they are not
influenced by the nearby radiator.
They cost more.

Same valve but the sensor is on the end of a capilliary tube. Contol
knob is on the sensor.


Many thanks.

I've felt that the capillary tube is a bit vulnerable on these, and
while they are better, cost and ease of fitting are also an issue.


The self-heating issue worried me a bit when designing my system,
and I did fit all the TRVs in the return rather than the flow.
However, having seen how they work, this is a complete non-issue.
The valve is basically sitting in the draft of air coming from
the room, being drawn in by the chimney heating effect of the
radiator. I don't believe the heat from the pipe or radiator has
any significant influence, and the TRV heads seem to be very well
thermally insulated from the brassware part.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]


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On Mon, 3 Sep 2012 14:31:56 +0100, "tim....." wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
...
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.


how about one of these:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:TVR_Chimaera.jpg


If only Trevor was a dyslexic

Speaking of TVR, can I add that Nikolai Smolensky is an obnoxious slimy ****.


--
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On Mon, 03 Sep 2012 00:24:15 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.


Just installed some of these Danfoss RD2 kits
http://danfoss-randall.co.uk/xxTypex...57_SIT313.html
They look very good and apparently perform well - the tiny lockshield
is a work of art. (Available in white or chrome).

We also have an RA-URX kit
http://danfoss-randall.co.uk/xxTypex...66_SIT313.html
fitted on a Stelrad tower rad in the hallway, silly price but a
beautiful piece of engineering.
--
rbel
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On Mon, 3 Sep 2012 18:11:56 +0000 (UTC), Andrew Gabriel wrote:

In article ,
Fredxx writes:
On 03/09/2012 09:01, harry wrote:
On Sep 3, 12:24 am, Fredxx wrote:
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.


You might consider getting the ones with remote sensors.
These work much better than the "normal" ones as they are not
influenced by the nearby radiator.
They cost more.

Same valve but the sensor is on the end of a capilliary tube. Contol
knob is on the sensor.


Many thanks.

I've felt that the capillary tube is a bit vulnerable on these, and
while they are better, cost and ease of fitting are also an issue.


The self-heating issue worried me a bit when designing my system,
and I did fit all the TRVs in the return rather than the flow.
However, having seen how they work, this is a complete non-issue.
The valve is basically sitting in the draft of air coming from
the room, being drawn in by the chimney heating effect of the
radiator. I don't believe the heat from the pipe or radiator has
any significant influence, and the TRV heads seem to be very well
thermally insulated from the brassware part.


Last year I changed all of my TRVs from vertical to horizontal and the room
temperature, after the initial overshoot, was far less varied. One room
stayed on the same reading (to 0.1 deg.) for about 3 days!
--
Peter.
The gods will stay away
whilst religions hold sway
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On 4 Sep 2012 07:50:54 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2012-09-03, The Other Mike wrote:
On Mon, 3 Sep 2012 14:31:56 +0100, "tim....." wrote:


"Fredxx" wrote in message
...
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.

how about one of these:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:TVR_Chimaera.jpg


If only Trevor was a dyslexic

Speaking of TVR, can I add that Nikolai Smolensky is an obnoxious slimy ****.


That's a little strong. Wheeler stitched him up like a kipper.


He knew what he was buying, TVR was far away from insolvent and had
demonstrable levels of sales and registrations over a number of years
(verifiable SMMT figures)

Peter Wheeler certainly didn't run it as a charity for more than two decades and
the factory and supply chain kept many hundreds employed. The
greed/ignorance/incompetence of Smolensky destroyed that overnight but it took
the best part of a decade for the company to finally die.

60 years in Blackpool and the tosser came out with this line:

"I can’t see how TVR can go back to Blackpool because Blackpool was never
feasible as a production base"

http://www.carmagazine.co.uk/News/Se...iew-exclusive/

Putting the TVR name on wind turbines has to be the ultimate insult though, it's
a pity someone from a rival clan in Russia couldn't have had him permanently
perforated a decade ago before he could do any damage.

Me, while I admired the company and some of their really outrageous designs I
wouldn't buy a TVR because I have long subscribed to the other end of the
sportscar scale, where less is more, but I still feel really bitter about this
****** from Russia who really couldn't be trusted with anything more complicated
than a Tonka toy in a padded playroom.

--
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On 4 Sep 2012 16:08:48 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2012-09-04, The Other Mike wrote:
On 4 Sep 2012 07:50:54 GMT, Huge wrote:


That's a little strong. Wheeler stitched him up like a kipper.


He knew what he was buying, TVR was far away from insolvent


Ahem. Neither of these statements is true.


I'm all ears !


--


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In message
,
harry writes
On Sep 3, 12:24*am, Fredxx wrote:
Can someone recommend a type and best place I can get them?

I'm not in a hurry, so an online source will be convenient.



You might consider getting the ones with remote sensors.
These work much better than the "normal" ones as they are not
influenced by the nearby radiator.
They cost more.

Same valve but the sensor is on the end of a capilliary tube.



Contol


Contol means ********

knob is on the sensor.


Kenjut means knob

c'mon Harry where's your indonesian slang ?


--
geoff
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Default TRV recommendation

In article ,
Fredxx wrote:

What is the performance of the no-name varieties which start at £5 or
so? Is there a difference? They all seem to use the same technology.


They fail after a few years. I've had two types bought from sheds. Life
less than 5 years. The Draytons are older than that now and still working
fine.

--
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Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Glueing a badge in place

In article ,
Jim White wrote:
In message
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:


Have a rather nice wood rimmed steering wheel on the old Rover. Much
nicer than the oddly shaped original. But the centre of it is a fairly
ugly plastic moulding with a new Rover badge in the middle - more
Metro than SD1.


[snip]


How about getting a polished ali ring turned and use the steering wheel
allen screws to secure it?


Cost. ;-)

I've tried BluTack on the old one and it doesn't go for the paint, so I've
used that. Whether it will fall off in the sun etc, only time will tell.

--
*A fine is a tax for doing wrong. A tax is a fine for doing well*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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In article ,
"Dave Plowman (News)" writes:
In article ,
Fredxx wrote:

What is the performance of the no-name varieties which start at £5 or
so? Is there a difference? They all seem to use the same technology.


They fail after a few years. I've had two types bought from sheds. Life
less than 5 years. The Draytons are older than that now and still working
fine.


and Drayton sold (and may still do so) spares for their older valves,
so you don't necessarily need to unplumb a failed one. I haven't had
any of my 10 year old Draytons fail, although they have mostly been
left on full all the time - with the heating being zoned, the TRV's
turned out not to be necessary on my system.

I just wish BES sold them.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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Default Glueing a badge in place

On 6 Sep, 20:02, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article ,
* *Jim White wrote:

In message
* * * * * "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
Have a rather nice wood rimmed steering wheel on the old Rover. Much
nicer than the oddly shaped original. But the centre of it is a fairly
ugly plastic moulding with a new Rover badge in the middle - more
Metro than SD1.


[snip]
How about getting a polished ali ring turned and use the steering wheel
allen screws to secure it?


Cost. ;-)

I've tried BluTack on the old one and it doesn't go for the paint, so I've
used that. Whether it will fall off in the sun etc, only time will tell.

--
*A fine is a tax for doing wrong. A tax is a fine for doing well*

* * Dave Plowman * * * * * * * * London SW
* * * * * * * * * To e-mail, change noise into sound.


If it does, i'd be tempted to put a coat of Araldite on the badge and
the boss and let them cure separately, and then try the glue gun to
join them together. Test on an inconspicuous area first, etc, etc


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Default Glueing a badge in place

In article
,
Chris Holmes wrote:
If it does, i'd be tempted to put a coat of Araldite on the badge and
the boss and let them cure separately, and then try the glue gun to
join them together. Test on an inconspicuous area first, etc, etc


The snag is the material the badge is made of is clear - but from the
front looks black. Which is achieved by the (thin) coat of black paint on
the back. If that gets damaged in any way it would show from the front. So
there is no inconspicuous area.

--
*Never kick a cow pat on a hot day *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Glueing a badge in place

On Fri, 07 Sep 2012 09:59:24 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
The snag is the material the badge is made of is clear - but from the
front looks black. Which is achieved by the (thin) coat of black paint
on the back. If that gets damaged in any way it would show from the
front. So there is no inconspicuous area.


Paint over it with something that is a little more resilient, then glue?

If it were me, I think I'd be looking at making some sort of carrier
somehow, and have the carrier bolt on / clip on / screw on to the
steering wheel boss. That or recreating the design in Inkscape and making
my own from scratch (which gives me a bit more flexibility, because I'm
not stuck trying to attach a bit of clear plastic of pre-determined shape/
size).

cheers

Jules
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