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Default Building a wooden shed door.

I have just finished resizing and repairing my shed but still have a
door to make. I have plenty of off cuts (shiplap tonge & groove) that
could be used but must the door `slats` be vertical or can I make a door
with horizontal slats. Would this be a weaker door?
The door will be approx 6 ft tall and 30 "wide
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Default Building a wooden shed door.

I'd imagine that depends on what you use to mount the slats and how its
connected to the hinges. My feeling is that it might let more water in that
way around as it flexes, but who knows?

Brian

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--
From the sofa of Brian Gaff -

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"ss" wrote in message
...
I have just finished resizing and repairing my shed but still have a door
to make. I have plenty of off cuts (shiplap tonge & groove) that could be
used but must the door `slats` be vertical or can I make a door with
horizontal slats. Would this be a weaker door?
The door will be approx 6 ft tall and 30 "wide



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Default Building a wooden shed door.

ss wrote:
I have just finished resizing and repairing my shed but still have a
door to make. I have plenty of off cuts (shiplap tonge & groove) that
could be used but must the door `slats` be vertical or can I make a
door with horizontal slats. Would this be a weaker door?
The door will be approx 6 ft tall and 30 "wide


You can use the off-cuts horizontally in the door, but the catch is you
would have to make a frame for it along the lines of a framed, ledged and
braced door (have a look at the DIY Wikki where John Rumm has a drawing) -
remember also when you fix the boards, make sure that the "tongues" are on
top.

If you prefer to have the short boards vertically, again make a frame as
above and fit additional ledges as needed to support the boards.

I wouldn't use the short boards vertically (the only way) for a simple
ledged and braced door - unless you used a couple of full length boards on
the edges (at least two on both edges) and then infill with the short boards
well screwed. If you use all short boards here, the door is likely to be
very weak and rather 'bendy' along the middle ledge.

Hope this is of some help

Cash


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Default Building a wooden shed door.

On 16/07/2012 21:38, Cash wrote:
ss wrote:
I have just finished resizing and repairing my shed but still have a
door to make. I have plenty of off cuts (shiplap tonge& groove) that
could be used but must the door `slats` be vertical or can I make a
door with horizontal slats. Would this be a weaker door?
The door will be approx 6 ft tall and 30 "wide


You can use the off-cuts horizontally in the door, but the catch is you
would have to make a frame for it along the lines of a framed, ledged and
braced door (have a look at the DIY Wikki where John Rumm has a drawing) -
remember also when you fix the boards, make sure that the "tongues" are on
top.

If you prefer to have the short boards vertically, again make a frame as
above and fit additional ledges as needed to support the boards.

I wouldn't use the short boards vertically (the only way) for a simple
ledged and braced door - unless you used a couple of full length boards on
the edges (at least two on both edges) and then infill with the short boards
well screwed. If you use all short boards here, the door is likely to be
very weak and rather 'bendy' along the middle ledge.

Hope this is of some help

Cash


Thanks for the replies.
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Default Building a wooden shed door.

On 16/07/2012 21:38, Cash wrote:
ss wrote:
I have just finished resizing and repairing my shed but still have a
door to make. I have plenty of off cuts (shiplap tonge & groove) that
could be used but must the door `slats` be vertical or can I make a
door with horizontal slats. Would this be a weaker door?
The door will be approx 6 ft tall and 30 "wide


You can use the off-cuts horizontally in the door, but the catch is you
would have to make a frame for it along the lines of a framed, ledged and
braced door (have a look at the DIY Wikki where John Rumm has a drawing) -
remember also when you fix the boards, make sure that the "tongues" are on
top.


I was going to say that ;-)

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...d_brace_do or


If you prefer to have the short boards vertically, again make a frame as
above and fit additional ledges as needed to support the boards.

I wouldn't use the short boards vertically (the only way) for a simple
ledged and braced door - unless you used a couple of full length boards on
the edges (at least two on both edges) and then infill with the short boards
well screwed. If you use all short boards here, the door is likely to be
very weak and rather 'bendy' along the middle ledge.


What he said!

I suppose if you want to use up lots of short bits, you could make a
core of the door with a sheet of 1/2" WBP ply, stick a simple ledge and
brace on the back of it (i.e. without the frame or the more complex
joinery), and then clad the front with your planks to give the illusion
of a ledge and braced door.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


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