We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer to
solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the work
myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 17:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Harry Davis
wrote:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer to
solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the work
myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry

That's a skilled job, skills that I don't have, but if I did have them
I feel I would know what tools to use.

--
Graham.
%Profound_observation%

Harry Davis wrote in
:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer
to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the
work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry


I would call it one of those tedious jobs where I would get someone in to
do it.Look at this as a price guide:
http://www.newoakreplacementdoors.co...rs/pine-doors/

Harry Davis wrote:
We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer to
solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the work
myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry
wedges and possibly car body filler, chisel, pencil and drill bits. If
it doesn't fit electric planer. screwdriver and screws. Door furniture -
latches and knobs/handles

Coffeee and patience and a hoover.


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

The Natural Philosopher wrote in
:

Harry Davis wrote:
We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele
veneer to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do
all the work myself?

wedges and possibly car body filler, chisel, pencil and drill bits. If
it doesn't fit electric planer. screwdriver and screws. Door furniture
- latches and knobs/handles

Thanks for this! The key info here for me is the electric planer, which
I'll check out.

Harry

On 09/07/2012 18:56, Harry Davis wrote:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer to
solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the work
myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Step by step details he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Hanging_a_door

As a minimum you will want screwdriver, chisel, plane, and a drill with
some large bits. There are a few other bits that can make life easier -
but it depends a bit on the exact circumstances.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 09/07/2012 19:13, Graham. wrote:
On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 17:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Harry Davis
wrote:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer to
solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the work
myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry

That's a skilled job, skills that I don't have, but if I did have them
I feel I would know what tools to use.

You could post a question here, and acquire the skills and knowledge you
need... ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Harry Davis wrote:
We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele
veneer to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do
all the work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry
Flat drill bit and sharp wood chisel for the locks and hinges etc.
leccy planer and drill, also leccy screwdriver.
Pencil, tape measure, decent hand saw, and saw blocks or similar, hoover.

Tips: don't use the screws provided with the lockpacks, hinges etc, they're
usually slotted and extremely ****e.

Measure twice, then mark, then measure again before cutting, drilling or
planing anything.

Start on a door out of the way, preferably an upstairs one.

Don't try to drive home the fancy (polished brass, chrome etc) screws on the
handles with a lecy driver as they're normally slotted and the handles
*will* get scratched

John Rumm wrote in
:

On 09/07/2012 18:56, Harry Davis wrote:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele
veneer to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do
all the work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Step by step details he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Hanging_a_door

As a minimum you will want screwdriver, chisel, plane, and a drill
with some large bits. There are a few other bits that can make life
easier - but it depends a bit on the exact circumstances.

Thanks John - looks like just what I need - I will study it carefully, and
also try to build up some skill with a plane on some junk pieces.

Thanks too to Phil.

Harry

On 09/07/2012 19:48, Harry Davis wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote in
:

Harry Davis wrote:
We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele
veneer to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do
all the work myself?

wedges and possibly car body filler, chisel, pencil and drill bits. If
it doesn't fit electric planer. screwdriver and screws. Door furniture
- latches and knobs/handles

Thanks for this! The key info here for me is the electric planer, which
I'll check out.

In some cases you can do the bulk of the work with a circular saw (even
putting a bevel on the edge), and just giving it a lick with a hand plane.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 09/07/2012 19:17, DerbyBorn wrote:
Harry Davis wrote in
:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer
to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the
work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry


I would call it one of those tedious jobs where I would get someone in to
do it

I call it one of those highly skilled jobs where I would get a man in.

Harry Davis wrote:
John Rumm wrote in
:

On 09/07/2012 18:56, Harry Davis wrote:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele
veneer to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do
all the work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!
Step by step details he

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Hanging_a_door

As a minimum you will want screwdriver, chisel, plane, and a drill
with some large bits. There are a few other bits that can make life
easier - but it depends a bit on the exact circumstances.

Thanks John - looks like just what I need - I will study it carefully, and
also try to build up some skill with a plane on some junk pieces.


steady hand and solid mounting - workmate is good to hold the door steady

Thanks too to Phil.

Harry


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 19:17, DerbyBorn wrote:
Harry Davis wrote in
:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer
to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the
work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry


I would call it one of those tedious jobs where I would get someone in to
do it

I call it one of those highly skilled jobs where I would get a man in.
I all it one of those simple jobs where only complete ******* who
shouldn't be here at all would get a man in.

YMMV..

--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

On 09/07/2012 19:56, Phil L wrote:
Don't try to drive home the fancy (polished brass, chrome etc) screws on the
handles with a lecy driver

I get a piece of cardboard say inch square, put a small hole in the
center, with scissors cut a slit from any edge to the small hole.
Insert screw and then use leccy screwdriver to get almost tight and
finish off by hand. the cardboard will just rotate with the screw. This
offers protection to the hardware as yes they do slip. It can save a
lot of time if you are doing a few doors or if hardware has to go on and
off a few times.

Harry Davis wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote in
:

Harry Davis wrote:
We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele
veneer to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do
all the work myself?

wedges and possibly car body filler, chisel, pencil and drill bits.
If it doesn't fit electric planer. screwdriver and screws. Door
furniture - latches and knobs/handles

Thanks for this! The key info here for me is the electric planer,
which I'll check out.

Careful. They can be a bit "enthusiastic".

I find a bolster chisel placed under the door very handy. By stepping on the
shaft of the chisel you can ease the door up into postion whilst your hands
do fiddly things with screws.

I've done plenty of cheap sapele doors myself as odd jobs but I must admit
that if I were replacing a large number of them in one go, I too would be
tempted to get a man in.

Tim

Tim

Harry

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 17:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Harry Davis wrote:

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Presumably using the same hinges? Using different hinges may present a
challenge with regards screw hole positions (too close to the old ones)
and rebate sizes.

Getting the hinge rebates on the doors in the right place might be fun.
Wedges and packing bits to support the door to exactly the right height
so you can mark for the existing hinge positions a must.

--
Cheers
Dave.

On Jul 9, 6:56*pm, Harry Davis wrote:
We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer to
solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the work
myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry


The most useful tool is an electric plane.
However it is a job that is easy to have an expensive f***k up.
So if you have no experience in this be careful.

On 09/07/2012 21:38, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 19:17, DerbyBorn wrote:
Harry Davis wrote in
:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer
to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the
work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry


I would call it one of those tedious jobs where I would get someone
in to
do it

I call it one of those highly skilled jobs where I would get a man in.
I all it one of those simple jobs where only complete ******* who
shouldn't be here at all would get a man in.

YMMV..

Sounds like you have an inflated opinion of your abilities. I've known
chippies get another chippy in just to hang doors. It's what they call a
specialised job. No problem for you of course

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012, "Dave Liquorice" writ:

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 17:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Harry Davis wrote:

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Presumably using the same hinges? Using different hinges may present a
challenge with regards screw hole positions (too close to the old ones)
and rebate sizes.

Getting the hinge rebates on the doors in the right place might be fun.
Wedges and packing bits to support the door to exactly the right height
so you can mark for the existing hinge positions a must.


Assuming the original door fits the hole correctly, remove it and all
the furniture. Lay the old door on top of the new door (hinge cut-outs
against the new door) on a pair of saw horses. Clamp and mark the edges
of the old door on the new door with a pencil. Trim the new door to
size, put the doors together again and mark the hinge and lock positions
on the new door using a square. A combination square will allow you to
get the hinge cut-out correct.

Make sure the lock side of both doors are on the same side.

Once done, you can bevel the door.

Simples!
--
P

On Jul 9, 7:17*pm, DerbyBorn wrote:
Harry Davis wrote :

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer
to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the
work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry

I would call it one of those tedious jobs where I would get someone in to
do it.Look at this as a price guide:http://www.newoakreplacementdoors.co...rs/pine-doors/

the pro who hung ours reckoned he could do three a day. It's a long
slow job to get it right. He had a special frame for holding the door
while he planed.

Jonathan

Percy wrote in :

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012, "Dave Liquorice" writ:

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 17:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Harry Davis wrote:

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Presumably using the same hinges? Using different hinges may present a
challenge with regards screw hole positions (too close to the old
ones) and rebate sizes.

Getting the hinge rebates on the doors in the right place might be
fun. Wedges and packing bits to support the door to exactly the right
height so you can mark for the existing hinge positions a must.


Assuming the original door fits the hole correctly, remove it and all
the furniture. Lay the old door on top of the new door (hinge cut-outs
against the new door) on a pair of saw horses. Clamp and mark the
edges of the old door on the new door with a pencil. Trim the new door
to size, put the doors together again and mark the hinge and lock
positions on the new door using a square. A combination square will
allow you to get the hinge cut-out correct.

Make sure the lock side of both doors are on the same side.

Once done, you can bevel the door.

Thanks for this. Can you say even just a bit more about how to trim the
new door to size. I think this will be the main area where I'll have to
learn hardest. I'll be OK at the marking up, even without laying the old
door on top of the new one, which is an excellent idea though! (Three
side lengths and a diagonal exactly define a quadrilateral.)

I.e. how to use an electric planer...what kind of clamps will I need,
etc.? Sorry but I've not used one before :-)

Harry

On Jul 9, 6:56*pm, Harry Davis wrote:

What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the work
myself?

I wouldn't "get a man in", but I would borrow a teenager. You need
four arms to hang doors, two to fit them, two to hold the door up.
Especially if it's a decent, heavy, door (or a fire door!) rather than
egg-crate. It's a horrible job if you're working alone.

You could of course get a man in. However get someone in who's
actually good at hanging doors! Many jobbing handymen aren't. It is a
long-winded job and it takes at least twice as long to hang a door to
fit well than it does to merely attach it. A careless door hanger will
be quick, but they'll stick in the first winter afterwards.

The process is in the DIY handbooks and the DIY wiki and I'm not going
to re-write it all here. You need to hang the door, you also need to
adjust the door to fit perfectly. Both of these need some appreciation
of simple geometry and a "feel" for how your adjustments will move the
door around. Some people can do this, some people can't.

It's (IMHO) easier to hang a new door in a new frame than it is to re-
hang an old door. It's a real pain to re-hang doors in frames where
fifty different hinges and locks have all chewed at the frame over the
years. Likewise re-hanging after a burglary.


Tools:

Door support to hold it edge upwards while you're working on it.
Definitely worth making. Don't use the DIY wiki's suggestion of wedged
feet - they'll trash the painted or varnished surface (you're hitting
the wedges sideways across the paint). My door feet are similar, but
they use a pair of cut-up cheap aluminium sash cramps to make screwed
clamps instead, lined with a bit of felt or neoprene (mouse mat). You
can also hold the upper part of one end in a Workmate for extra
stability.

Circular saw. Not usually IMHO, unless it's a brand new door that
still has "horns" on it (does anyone still do this?) or else you're
sawing a door tapered to fit a cottage.

Electric planer. Perhaps the only use for an electric planer. A
powerful tool, especially for hefty hardwood front doors. However they
eat wood at a fearsome rate and it's hard to put it back afterwards.

Random orbital sander - a good one, like the Makitas or the old Bosch
PEX400. This (with a fresh coarse disk) is my favoured tool for
powered removal of door timber. Much more controllable than saw or
planer.

A really, really good quality low-angle block plane. Pre-war Stanley
and lovingly restored, or else a new Veritas one. Fantastic tool and
worth every penny. Cheap or untuned ones are no substitute.

Good quality (Mirka off a roll) 40 grit sandpaper on a cork block.
Your basic tuning tool.

Thin, flat, wide prybar, like a Stanley Wonderbar. Your basic lifting
and levering tools. Collect these whenever you see a new one that's a
different size or shape. Also roller fulcrums to go under them (dowel
or tool handles) and wooden wedges to hold the door in place. A really
stable teenager can also be used to hold doors in place, but where do
you find a stable teenager?

Chisels. A set of Chinese ones from Aldi, and a sharpening stone (a
whole other story). Surprisingly effective quality, they'll take a
pretty good edge. Everyone needs a set of cheap, effective chisels to
avoid taking your "best" set of bench chisels on site. Keep them in a
chisel roll to protect the edges.

Router and hinge morticing template. I don't usually do this, but if I
was hanging a series of new, matching doors, then I would. I'd even
consider buying the hinges with rounded corners.

Stanley #271 miniature hand router plane. You've never heard of it.
Best hinge mortice trimming tool ever made though. Fantastic for
taking a smidgen more out on the depth though. eBay.

Marking gauge. Yes, I use my finger and a pencil. However gauges are
cheap and accurate.

Angle gauge. Folding gauge that measures angles, with arms a couple of
feet long. You don't need this until you meet a cottage where the
frame is nowhere near square, then you do.

Drills for screw holes. You're doing a lot of these, so use the right
size screws (good quality too, and the right thread shape for the
timber. Slot heads are obsolete, use Pozi) and the right size drill
for them. This might be a magic multi-size drill with a depth stop,
but that's really if you're using old woodscrews with tapered shanks.
Modern parallel screws just need a plain hole.

Screwdriver to put them in with. Electric is certainly a time saver,
and it's too fiddly to use my old favourite pump ratchet screwdriver.
If you're dealing with slotted screw heads, especially taking them
out, then get an old-school ratchet brace for extra leverage. For
final tightening, then you just need a Pozi - but make it a good one,
with an unworn head, and if it ought to be a #3, then don't use a #2.
This is one of the hardest working tools for any on-site chippy these
days, so have decent ones.

Shims. You don't need these. If you need them on a new hang, you've
screwed up somewhere. However... If you must shim, use good shim
materials. The backs of Ikea wardrobes (some sort of laser-resistant
super-hardboard) are good material, because unlike cardboard it
doesn't compress over time or swell with damp. For thin shims though,
I use a glossy advertising cardboard that is shiny and contains so
much resin it's now waterproof (last year's ad campaign from a place
where I re-hung a whole bunch of doors).

stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 21:38, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 19:17, DerbyBorn wrote:
Harry Davis wrote in
:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer
to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the
work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry


I would call it one of those tedious jobs where I would get someone
in to
do it

I call it one of those highly skilled jobs where I would get a man in.
I all it one of those simple jobs where only complete ******* who
shouldn't be here at all would get a man in.

YMMV..

Sounds like you have an inflated opinion of your abilities. I've known
chippies get another chippy in just to hang doors. It's what they call a
specialised job. No problem for you of course

Well no it isn't. My chippies did about half the 20 odd doors here and I
did the rest.

Frames are a bit more an issue, but again nothing to it once you work
out what's important,.


--
To people who know nothing, anything is possible.
To people who know too much, it is a sad fact
that they know how little is really possible -
and how hard it is to achieve it.

On 10/07/2012 11:40, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Jul 9, 6:56 pm, Harry Davis wrote:

What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the work
myself?

I wouldn't "get a man in", but I would borrow a teenager. You need
four arms to hang doors, two to fit them, two to hold the door up.
Especially if it's a decent, heavy, door (or a fire door!) rather than
egg-crate. It's a horrible job if you're working alone.
....

Careful preparation and rising butt hinges make it a one-man job. A
hinge routing jig reduces the amount of careful preparation needed.

Colin Bignell

On Tue, 10 Jul 2012, "Harry Davis" writ:

Percy wrote in :

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012, "Dave Liquorice" writ:

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 17:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Harry Davis wrote:

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Presumably using the same hinges? Using different hinges may present a
challenge with regards screw hole positions (too close to the old
ones) and rebate sizes.

Getting the hinge rebates on the doors in the right place might be
fun. Wedges and packing bits to support the door to exactly the right
height so you can mark for the existing hinge positions a must.


Assuming the original door fits the hole correctly, remove it and all
the furniture. Lay the old door on top of the new door (hinge cut-outs
against the new door) on a pair of saw horses. Clamp and mark the
edges of the old door on the new door with a pencil. Trim the new door
to size, put the doors together again and mark the hinge and lock
positions on the new door using a square. A combination square will
allow you to get the hinge cut-out correct.

Make sure the lock side of both doors are on the same side.

Once done, you can bevel the door.

Thanks for this. Can you say even just a bit more about how to trim the
new door to size. I think this will be the main area where I'll have to
learn hardest. I'll be OK at the marking up, even without laying the old
door on top of the new one, which is an excellent idea though! (Three
side lengths and a diagonal exactly define a quadrilateral.)

I.e. how to use an electric planer...what kind of clamps will I need,
etc.? Sorry but I've not used one before :-)

Depends on the age of the house as the doors may be as delivered or may
have been trimmed down to fit the linings.

Cut top and bottom with a circular saw and the edges with a plane.
Doesn't have to be electric but it does save a lot of work.

--
P

On Tue, 10 Jul 2012, "Percy" writ:

On Tue, 10 Jul 2012, "Harry Davis" writ:

Percy wrote in :

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012, "Dave Liquorice" writ:

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 17:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Harry Davis wrote:

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Presumably using the same hinges? Using different hinges may present a
challenge with regards screw hole positions (too close to the old
ones) and rebate sizes.

Getting the hinge rebates on the doors in the right place might be
fun. Wedges and packing bits to support the door to exactly the right
height so you can mark for the existing hinge positions a must.


Assuming the original door fits the hole correctly, remove it and all
the furniture. Lay the old door on top of the new door (hinge cut-outs
against the new door) on a pair of saw horses. Clamp and mark the
edges of the old door on the new door with a pencil. Trim the new door
to size, put the doors together again and mark the hinge and lock
positions on the new door using a square. A combination square will
allow you to get the hinge cut-out correct.

Make sure the lock side of both doors are on the same side.

Once done, you can bevel the door.

Thanks for this. Can you say even just a bit more about how to trim the
new door to size. I think this will be the main area where I'll have to
learn hardest. I'll be OK at the marking up, even without laying the old
door on top of the new one, which is an excellent idea though! (Three
side lengths and a diagonal exactly define a quadrilateral.)

I.e. how to use an electric planer...what kind of clamps will I need,
etc.? Sorry but I've not used one before :-)

Depends on the age of the house as the doors may be as delivered or may
have been trimmed down to fit the linings.

Cut top and bottom with a circular saw and the edges with a plane.
Doesn't have to be electric but it does save a lot of work.

Sorry, missed a bit. Any soft faced clamp will do just to stop the doors
moving. Use a sawboard for the circular saw. You can make one like this:

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/reviews/4283497

There are lots of other examples on the Interweb.

If you are not experienced with an electric plane, use a 90 degree
guide.
--
P

On 10/07/2012 08:03, stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 21:38, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 19:17, DerbyBorn wrote:
Harry Davis wrote in
:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele veneer
to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the
work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry


I would call it one of those tedious jobs where I would get someone
in to
do it

I call it one of those highly skilled jobs where I would get a man in.
I all it one of those simple jobs where only complete ******* who
shouldn't be here at all would get a man in.

YMMV..

Sounds like you have an inflated opinion of your abilities. I've known
chippies get another chippy in just to hang doors. It's what they call a
specialised job. No problem for you of course

I don't think I would have the brass neck to trade as a chippy, and not
be able to hang a door!

I appreciate its more difficult that some people expect, but its not
*that* difficult.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 10/07/2012 13:13, Nightjar wrote:
On 10/07/2012 11:40, Andy Dingley wrote:
On Jul 9, 6:56 pm, Harry Davis wrote:

What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the work
myself?

I wouldn't "get a man in", but I would borrow a teenager. You need
four arms to hang doors, two to fit them, two to hold the door up.
Especially if it's a decent, heavy, door (or a fire door!) rather than
egg-crate. It's a horrible job if you're working alone.
...

Careful preparation and rising butt hinges make it a one-man job. A
hinge routing jig reduces the amount of careful preparation needed.

You can get a purpose made door lifter - complete with fulcrum built in,
which you stick under the door and use your foot to lift. Getting your
rebates cut snugly helps take the weight when hanging as well.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 10/07/2012 11:40, Andy Dingley wrote:

Door support to hold it edge upwards while you're working on it.
Definitely worth making. Don't use the DIY wiki's suggestion of wedged
feet - they'll trash the painted or varnished surface (you're hitting
the wedges sideways across the paint). My door feet are similar, but

Yes good point, the wiki does assume its an as yet unfinished door. I
will add a note to include some protection for the finish if its not.

Circular saw. Not usually IMHO, unless it's a brand new door that
still has "horns" on it (does anyone still do this?) or else you're

I make doors with horns - saves bashing the corners while lumping them
about in the workshop...

sawing a door tapered to fit a cottage.

Yes, that's a whole different article ;-)

[snip]

Router and hinge morticing template. I don't usually do this, but if I
was hanging a series of new, matching doors, then I would. I'd even
consider buying the hinges with rounded corners.

The very small routers can be handy here - even if just used freehand to
waste out the wood between manually cut edges

Stanley #271 miniature hand router plane. You've never heard of it.
Best hinge mortice trimming tool ever made though. Fantastic for
taking a smidgen more out on the depth though. eBay.

Or take out a mortgage and get the Lie Nielson copy of it ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

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John Rumm wrote:

You can get a purpose made door lifter - complete with fulcrum built in,
which you stick under the door and use your foot to lift. Getting your
rebates cut snugly helps take the weight when hanging as well.

Bolster chisel works well for me.

Tim

On 10/07/2012 17:19, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/07/2012 08:03, stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 21:38, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 19:17, DerbyBorn wrote:
Harry Davis wrote in
:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele
veneer
to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the
work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry


I would call it one of those tedious jobs where I would get someone
in to
do it

I call it one of those highly skilled jobs where I would get a man in.
I all it one of those simple jobs where only complete ******* who
shouldn't be here at all would get a man in.

YMMV..

Sounds like you have an inflated opinion of your abilities. I've known
chippies get another chippy in just to hang doors. It's what they call a
specialised job. No problem for you of course

I don't think I would have the brass neck to trade as a chippy, and not
be able to hang a door!

I appreciate its more difficult that some people expect, but its not
*that* difficult.


The OP has never used a plane before so, for him at least, it will be
"*that difficult*"

On 10/07/2012 17:53, Tim wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

You can get a purpose made door lifter - complete with fulcrum built in,
which you stick under the door and use your foot to lift. Getting your
rebates cut snugly helps take the weight when hanging as well.

Bolster chisel works well for me.

Tim

Makes lousy rebates, though!

:-)

I once went to a house where the door hinges were demountable (press a
catch) and the leaves of the hinges had a radius to suit the routing of the
rebates. Brilliant idea I thought.

On 10/07/2012 18:32, stuart noble wrote:
On 10/07/2012 17:19, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/07/2012 08:03, stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 21:38, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
stuart noble wrote:
On 09/07/2012 19:17, DerbyBorn wrote:
Harry Davis wrote in
:

We're changing all the internal doors in our house, from sapele
veneer
to solid wood. What kind of saw, plane, etc. do I need to do all the
work myself?

Thanks in advance for any help with this!

Harry


I would call it one of those tedious jobs where I would get someone
in to
do it

I call it one of those highly skilled jobs where I would get a man in.
I all it one of those simple jobs where only complete ******* who
shouldn't be here at all would get a man in.

YMMV..

Sounds like you have an inflated opinion of your abilities. I've known
chippies get another chippy in just to hang doors. It's what they call a
specialised job. No problem for you of course

I don't think I would have the brass neck to trade as a chippy, and not
be able to hang a door!

I appreciate its more difficult that some people expect, but its not
*that* difficult.


The OP has never used a plane before so, for him at least, it will be
"*that difficult*"

Not with the guidance that is available. It may take him a while, but
that is not a problem if you are not paying for the time. Once can
practice with a plane on some spare timber first. The difficulties are
partly knowing what to do - and those things are eminently teachable.

Also worth mentioning there are lots of tutorials on youtube these days.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 10/07/2012 18:55, newshound wrote:
On 10/07/2012 17:53, Tim wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

You can get a purpose made door lifter - complete with fulcrum built in,
which you stick under the door and use your foot to lift. Getting your
rebates cut snugly helps take the weight when hanging as well.

Bolster chisel works well for me.

Tim

Makes lousy rebates, though!

Probably depends on how big your hinges are ;-)




:-)



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Harry Davis wrote in news:XnsA08C75BC23B84harrydavis@
88.198.244.100:

Percy wrote in :

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012, "Dave Liquorice" writ:

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 17:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Harry Davis wrote:

(Three side lengths and a diagonal exactly define a quadrilateral.)

Ouch! Oops! I meant to type "four side lengths and a diagonal"! :-)

Harry

On 10/07/2012 17:34, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/07/2012 13:13, Nightjar wrote:
....
Careful preparation and rising butt hinges make it a one-man job. A
hinge routing jig reduces the amount of careful preparation needed.

You can get a purpose made door lifter - complete with fulcrum built in,
which you stick under the door and use your foot to lift. Getting your
rebates cut snugly helps take the weight when hanging as well.

I'm not sure that would be much use lifting a door onto rising butt
hinges, unless it has a very high lift.

Colin Bignell

On 11/07/2012 13:36, Nightjar wrote:
On 10/07/2012 17:34, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/07/2012 13:13, Nightjar wrote:
...
Careful preparation and rising butt hinges make it a one-man job. A
hinge routing jig reduces the amount of careful preparation needed.

You can get a purpose made door lifter - complete with fulcrum built in,
which you stick under the door and use your foot to lift. Getting your
rebates cut snugly helps take the weight when hanging as well.

I'm not sure that would be much use lifting a door onto rising butt
hinges, unless it has a very high lift.

No, its really designed for just holding a door in place while you mate
it with the rebates for conventional hinges.

This sort of thing:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/board-door-lifter/20360

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Harry Davis" wrote in message
...
Harry Davis wrote in news:XnsA08C75BC23B84harrydavis@
88.198.244.100:

Percy wrote in :

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012, "Dave Liquorice" writ:

On Mon, 9 Jul 2012 17:56:38 +0000 (UTC), Harry Davis wrote:

(Three side lengths and a diagonal exactly define a quadrilateral.)

Ouch! Oops! I meant to type "four side lengths and a diagonal"! :-)

Even that's not 100% correct, doors tend to be handed so you need to define
which side you are defining.

Harry

On Wed, 11 Jul 2012, "John Rumm" writ:

On 11/07/2012 13:36, Nightjar wrote:
On 10/07/2012 17:34, John Rumm wrote:
On 10/07/2012 13:13, Nightjar wrote:
...
Careful preparation and rising butt hinges make it a one-man job. A
hinge routing jig reduces the amount of careful preparation needed.

You can get a purpose made door lifter - complete with fulcrum built in,
which you stick under the door and use your foot to lift. Getting your
rebates cut snugly helps take the weight when hanging as well.

I'm not sure that would be much use lifting a door onto rising butt
hinges, unless it has a very high lift.

No, its really designed for just holding a door in place while you mate
it with the rebates for conventional hinges.

This sort of thing:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/board-door-lifter/20360


I have used one of these for years. It's smaller, more versatile and
cheaper.

http://tinyurl.com/cpzb5h9
--
P