Hi,

I've noticed that all flat pack furniture, regardless of what it is,
follows the same general construction: two rigid sides, a rigid top,
and a flimsy back. I guess they use a flimsier piece of wood for the
back to save money? The top of the sides and the bottom of the top are
drilled to accept dowels and/or cam dowels, like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cam-dowel-...ck-of-50/93435

One day, when I find time, I would like to have a go at making my own
furniture. I know it won't be as quick or as cheap as buying flat
pack, but where's the fun in that ?! I'm sure there must be a good
book I could buy about this. Can anyone recommend one?

I can see that I would use a forstner bit to drill the hole for the
cam lock and a pillar drill to accurately drill the holes for the
dowels and cam dowels.

I don't have a pillar drill at the moment. I do have to drill through
bits of wood for various projects and sometimes my holes are not as
perpendicular as I would like, so I think a pillar drill would be
useful. I have used google groups to search for old posts about pillar
drills and I have found a few recommending a 500w motor but looking at
Axminster, most of them seem to be lower than this, around the 300W
mark, unless you go for an expensive floor standing one. Is that the
only way to get the bigger motor?

Machine mart sell "Clarke metalworker" models but I'm only interested
in woodworking. What's the difference? MM also list different tapers
for different models. I've heard of Morse tapers but what are the
other types and what are the advantages /disadvantages of them?

And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!

TIA

On 04/05/2012 11:18, Fred wrote:
Hi,

I've noticed that all flat pack furniture, regardless of what it is,
follows the same general construction: two rigid sides, a rigid top,
and a flimsy back. I guess they use a flimsier piece of wood for the
back to save money? The top of the sides and the bottom of the top are
drilled to accept dowels and/or cam dowels, like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cam-dowel-...ck-of-50/93435

One day, when I find time, I would like to have a go at making my own
furniture. I know it won't be as quick or as cheap as buying flat
pack, but where's the fun in that ?! I'm sure there must be a good
book I could buy about this. Can anyone recommend one?

I can see that I would use a forstner bit to drill the hole for the
cam lock and a pillar drill to accurately drill the holes for the
dowels and cam dowels.

I don't have a pillar drill at the moment. I do have to drill through
bits of wood for various projects and sometimes my holes are not as
perpendicular as I would like, so I think a pillar drill would be
useful. I have used google groups to search for old posts about pillar
drills and I have found a few recommending a 500w motor but looking at
Axminster, most of them seem to be lower than this, around the 300W
mark, unless you go for an expensive floor standing one. Is that the
only way to get the bigger motor?

Machine mart sell "Clarke metalworker" models but I'm only interested
in woodworking. What's the difference? MM also list different tapers
for different models. I've heard of Morse tapers but what are the
other types and what are the advantages /disadvantages of them?

And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!

TIA

Making your own flat pack would certainly be a labour of love!
It's all about jigs and gadgets, some of which might take ages to make,
and only a few seconds to use.
This catalogue would be worth a look

http://www.woodfit.com/info_about.php

I have a gadget somewhere which fits on a hand-held drill and ensures it
drills centrally on the edge of a panel, and parallel to the long sides.

Pillar drills are not expensive and well worth having if you have the
space especially if you do much drilling. Almost essential if you need
to drill thicker metal accurately.

On Fri, 04 May 2012 12:06:11 +0100, newshound
wrote:

I have a gadget somewhere which fits on a hand-held drill and ensures it
drills centrally on the edge of a panel, and parallel to the long sides.

That's a possibility. Any idea what it is called?

Pillar drills are not expensive and well worth having if you have the
space especially if you do much drilling. Almost essential if you need
to drill thicker metal accurately.

No metalwork planned, only wood at the present time.

Thanks.

On 04/05/2012 11:18, Fred wrote:
Hi,

I've noticed that all flat pack furniture, regardless of what it is,
follows the same general construction: two rigid sides, a rigid top,
and a flimsy back. I guess they use a flimsier piece of wood for the
back to save money? The top of the sides and the bottom of the top are
drilled to accept dowels and/or cam dowels, like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cam-dowel-...ck-of-50/93435

One day, when I find time, I would like to have a go at making my own
furniture. I know it won't be as quick or as cheap as buying flat
pack, but where's the fun in that ?! I'm sure there must be a good
book I could buy about this. Can anyone recommend one?

I can see that I would use a forstner bit to drill the hole for the
cam lock and a pillar drill to accurately drill the holes for the
dowels and cam dowels.
....
And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!

Why would you want to make your own flat pack furniture? Its main
purpose is to save storage space in warehouses. If you want to make your
own furniture, a 1/2" router and a dovetail jig will make a much better job.

http://www.trend-uk.com/en/UK/produc...ting_jigs.html

Colin Bignell

On Fri, 04 May 2012 12:17:10 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

Why would you want to make your own flat pack furniture? Its main
purpose is to save storage space in warehouses. If you want to make your
own furniture, a 1/2" router and a dovetail jig will make a much better job.

Hi,

I know that dovetailing is the proper way to do it but I thought I'd
start simple and work my way to the cleverer stuff later!

Thanks.

On 04/05/2012 14:10, Fred wrote:
On Fri, 04 May 2012 12:17:10 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

Why would you want to make your own flat pack furniture? Its main
purpose is to save storage space in warehouses. If you want to make your
own furniture, a 1/2" router and a dovetail jig will make a much better job.

Hi,

I know that dovetailing is the proper way to do it but I thought I'd
start simple and work my way to the cleverer stuff later!

Actually, you are proposing to do it the other way around. A router and
a dovetailing jig is the simplest way.

Colin Bignell

On Fri, 04 May 2012 15:25:16 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

Actually, you are proposing to do it the other way around. A router and
a dovetailing jig is the simplest way.

Thanks. I'll give that another thought then. Where did you get your
jig from? I thought dovetail jigs cost more than the routers!

On 07/05/2012 21:55, Fred wrote:
On Fri, 04 May 2012 15:25:16 +0100, Nightjar
wrote:

Actually, you are proposing to do it the other way around. A router and
a dovetailing jig is the simplest way.

Thanks. I'll give that another thought then. Where did you get your
jig from? I thought dovetail jigs cost more than the routers!

The posh ones do, but a basic one can be had for £40 or so.

If you want cheap easy joins, then have a look at something like a
pocket hole jig...

A bit corny, but you get the idea:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xaSWZJFZQh8

Or biscuit jointing is also very cheap once you have the machine:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kJt5N...eature=related


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Fred wrote
Nightjar wrote

Why would you want to make your own flat pack furniture? Its main
purpose is to save storage space in warehouses. If you want to make your
own furniture, a 1/2" router and a dovetail jig will make a much better
job.

I know that dovetailing is the proper way to do it but I thought
I'd start simple and work my way to the cleverer stuff later!

You're actually starting with one of the more difficult approaches to do.

On 04/05/2012 11:18, Fred wrote:
Hi,

I've noticed that all flat pack furniture, regardless of what it is,
follows the same general construction: two rigid sides, a rigid top,
and a flimsy back. I guess they use a flimsier piece of wood for the
back to save money? The top of the sides and the bottom of the top are
drilled to accept dowels and/or cam dowels, like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cam-dowel-...ck-of-50/93435

One day, when I find time, I would like to have a go at making my own
furniture. I know it won't be as quick or as cheap as buying flat
pack, but where's the fun in that ?! I'm sure there must be a good
book I could buy about this. Can anyone recommend one?

I can see that I would use a forstner bit to drill the hole for the
cam lock and a pillar drill to accurately drill the holes for the
dowels and cam dowels.

I don't have a pillar drill at the moment. I do have to drill through
bits of wood for various projects and sometimes my holes are not as
perpendicular as I would like, so I think a pillar drill would be
useful. I have used google groups to search for old posts about pillar
drills and I have found a few recommending a 500w motor but looking at
Axminster, most of them seem to be lower than this, around the 300W
mark, unless you go for an expensive floor standing one. Is that the
only way to get the bigger motor?

Machine mart sell "Clarke metalworker" models but I'm only interested
in woodworking. What's the difference? MM also list different tapers
for different models. I've heard of Morse tapers but what are the
other types and what are the advantages /disadvantages of them?

And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!

TIA


As others have said, it's very difficult to get the same accuracy with
knife and fork methods which mass production factories can achieve with
elaborate jigs.

The only advantage to the end user of this type of construction is that
it can sometimes (but not always if dowels and glue are also used) be
dismantled again should you wish to do so.

If you *don't* see a need to dismantle it, you will get a far better job
by using a different method of construction. Dovetails have already been
mentioned, but dowels[1] or biscuit joints[2] are also ok, and are far
easier to get right than the method you suggest.

If you are going to use any method which involves glue, it's a good idea
to have some sash clamps to hold everything together until the glue has
dried.

[1] You can buy a dowelling jig like this for a few quid, making it easy
to drill accurate dowel holes in both pieces
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd150/p22284

[2] A biscuit jointer such as this will cost a bit more, but has quite
a few uses. [I bought mine when it was on offer at 40-odd quid!]
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er...uestid=2088851

--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On Fri, 04 May 2012 13:11:45 +0100, Roger Mills
wrote:

If you *don't* see a need to dismantle it, you will get a far better job
by using a different method of construction.

I'm not planning to dismantle anything but who knows what the future
holds, so dismantability I suppose would be useful. OTOH I could cross
that bridge if I ever came to it.

Dovetails have already been mentioned, but dowels[1] or biscuit joints[2]
are also ok, and are far easier to get right than the method you suggest.

I suppose using wooden dowels only halves the number of holes.

I've never made biscuit joints. I always thought they would be hard to
do for some reason.

[1] You can buy a dowelling jig like this for a few quid, making it easy
to drill accurate dowel holes in both pieces
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd150/p22284

That must be what newshound was talking about. The description says
"E, L, and T" joints. Sorry for being thick; what do they stand for?

TIA

On 04/05/2012 14:17, Fred wrote:
On Fri, 04 May 2012 13:11:45 +0100, Roger
wrote:

If you *don't* see a need to dismantle it, you will get a far better job
by using a different method of construction.

I'm not planning to dismantle anything but who knows what the future
holds, so dismantability I suppose would be useful. OTOH I could cross
that bridge if I ever came to it.

Dovetails have already been mentioned, but dowels[1] or biscuit joints[2]
are also ok, and are far easier to get right than the method you suggest.

I suppose using wooden dowels only halves the number of holes.

Dowels without a jig are actually quite difficult. Even with one, you
have got to be spot on in two axis at once.

I've never made biscuit joints. I always thought they would be hard to
do for some reason.

Biscuits are about the easiest and fastest jointing method out there.
They also give you some positioning latitude in one axis when assembling.

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/powertools/biscuit.htm

[1] You can buy a dowelling jig like this for a few quid, making it easy
to drill accurate dowel holes in both pieces
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd150/p22284

That must be what newshound was talking about. The description says
"E, L, and T" joints. Sorry for being thick; what do they stand for?

Well, T would be one plank meets the middle of another at 90 degrees - a
T shape.

L would be a square corner...

As for E, both of the above perhaps!


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm writes:
On 04/05/2012 14:17, Fred wrote:
On Fri, 04 May 2012 13:11:45 +0100, Roger
wrote:

If you *don't* see a need to dismantle it, you will get a far better job
by using a different method of construction.

I'm not planning to dismantle anything but who knows what the future
holds, so dismantability I suppose would be useful. OTOH I could cross
that bridge if I ever came to it.

Dovetails have already been mentioned, but dowels[1] or biscuit joints[2]
are also ok, and are far easier to get right than the method you suggest.

I suppose using wooden dowels only halves the number of holes.

Dowels without a jig are actually quite difficult. Even with one, you
have got to be spot on in two axis at once.

I have a dowel kit which I've had for years, which is very simple
to use. You drill the holes in one side (8mm, IIRC). Then you
insert brass plugs in the holes, which have a flange so they
won't go right in, and a spike sticking out which marks the centres
of the matching holes to drill. Very quick and easy.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

On Fri, 4 May 2012 19:13:40 +0000 (UTC),
(Andrew Gabriel) wrote:


I have a dowel kit which I've had for years, which is very simple
to use. You drill the holes in one side (8mm, IIRC). Then you
insert brass plugs in the holes, which have a flange so they
won't go right in, and a spike sticking out which marks the centres
of the matching holes to drill. Very quick and easy.

Sounds ideal, thanks, I'll look out for one of those.

On Fri, 04 May 2012 19:24:07 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Well, T would be one plank meets the middle of another at 90 degrees - a
T shape.

L would be a square corner...

As for E, both of the above perhaps!

Sorry, I was expecting them to stand for something (egg, lettuce,
tomato) rather than something so simple!

In message , Fred
wrote
On Fri, 04 May 2012 13:11:45 +0100, Roger Mills
wrote:


[1] You can buy a dowelling jig like this for a few quid, making it easy
to drill accurate dowel holes in both pieces
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...ls/Dowelling+J
ig/d10/sd150/p22284

That must be what newshound was talking about. The description says
"E, L, and T" joints. Sorry for being thick; what do they stand for?

It's always worth finding a Youtube video that gives a lot more
information that the instruction sheets. A similar product....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhm8V3N_LNw


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Wolfcraft-...ig-Drill-Guide
-6-8-10mm-/390226448890?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash= item5adb4f11
fa
--
Alan
news2009 {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

On 04/05/2012 11:18, Fred wrote:

I've noticed that all flat pack furniture, regardless of what it is,
follows the same general construction: two rigid sides, a rigid top,
and a flimsy back. I guess they use a flimsier piece of wood for the
back to save money? The top of the sides and the bottom of the top are

That and it only needs stop the frame from "racking" and stuff falling
out...

drilled to accept dowels and/or cam dowels, like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cam-dowel-...ck-of-50/93435

One day, when I find time, I would like to have a go at making my own
furniture. I know it won't be as quick or as cheap as buying flat
pack, but where's the fun in that ?! I'm sure there must be a good
book I could buy about this. Can anyone recommend one?

There are plenty to choose from. You may be better off with a book on
basic techniques first though... possibly something like "Woodworking
with the Router" is quite a good one.

I can see that I would use a forstner bit to drill the hole for the
cam lock and a pillar drill to accurately drill the holes for the
dowels and cam dowels.

I think you may be creating a problem that you don't actually need to
solve. Cam and dowel fixings solve the problem of how to make a strong
joint in cheap chipboard, that can also be flat packed and assembled
later. Its not a joint you would normally use on "real" furniture since
there are plenty of better options available if you don't need something
that is going to be packed up as a kit and assembled by a non skilled
operative later.

For easy joint making in your own furniture, have a look at options like
pocket hole jigs or a biscuit jointer.

For example, see how I assembled these:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Small_bookcase

(cam and dowel fixing could be done with a home made jig - or for that
matter there may be commercial ones available - but will be done on big
computer controlled machines in a factory normally)

I don't have a pillar drill at the moment. I do have to drill through
bits of wood for various projects and sometimes my holes are not as
perpendicular as I would like, so I think a pillar drill would be
useful. I have used google groups to search for old posts about pillar

Yup they can be useful...

drills and I have found a few recommending a 500w motor but looking at
Axminster, most of them seem to be lower than this, around the 300W
mark, unless you go for an expensive floor standing one. Is that the
only way to get the bigger motor?

MM have some with larger motors:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...-pilar%20drill

Machine mart sell "Clarke metalworker" models but I'm only interested
in woodworking. What's the difference? MM also list different tapers

None. You probably won't find a "woodworking" specific drill press -
they will all do both. Bigger beefier ones being better suited to some
woodworking techniques.

for different models. I've heard of Morse tapers but what are the
other types and what are the advantages /disadvantages of them?

I would say for woodworking and general drilling you can pretty much
ignore it. Many modern pillar drills have a protruding tapered bar that
mates with a tapered socket on the back of the chuck. Hence its only
really of any use for fitting a chuck, and that will hold all your bits.
Some higher end machines will have it the other way around with the
female bit of the taper fitting in the head of the drill, and male bit
on the chuck. This allows the option of taking the chuck off the head,
and fitting a drill bit with the same taper directly into the head.
Handy for very large blacksmith drills, and also for when you need spot
on centring accuracy. (a three jaw chuck will not give precise
realignment when you take the bit out and put it back again - but its at
a tolerance level that is not going to bother a woodworker)

And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!

Using the pillar drill to make yourself a jig would probably be easier.
All you really would need is a block of wood with an accurately drilled
hole through it in the middle, and another couple of holes in the middle
at either end. Glue some dowels into the end holes. Then slap it on your
edge with a dowel either side of the panel and rotate such that they are
both touching one side each. Your centre hole through the block is now
dead centre on the panel and you can use it to drill a square hole.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On 04/05/2012 13:13, John Rumm wrote:
On 04/05/2012 11:18, Fred wrote:

And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!

Using the pillar drill to make yourself a jig would probably be easier.
All you really would need is a block of wood with an accurately drilled
hole through it in the middle, and another couple of holes in the middle
at either end. Glue some dowels into the end holes. Then slap it on your
edge with a dowel either side of the panel and rotate such that they are
both touching one side each. Your centre hole through the block is now
dead centre on the panel and you can use it to drill a square hole.

I drew one for you:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...e_drilling_jig


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Mon, 07 May 2012 13:57:03 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

I drew one for you:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...e_drilling_jig

Thank you. Very kind of you.

On Fri, 04 May 2012 13:13:30 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

"Woodworking
with the Router" is quite a good one.

Is that by Hylton and Matlack? I must admit, the router is not my
favourite tool. A good book would boost my confidence with it.

On 07/05/2012 21:58, Fred wrote:
On Fri, 04 May 2012 13:13:30 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

"Woodworking
with the Router" is quite a good one.

Is that by Hylton and Matlack? I must admit, the router is not my

Yup, that's the one.

favourite tool. A good book would boost my confidence with it.

Hugely versatile tool once you get a bit of practice with it.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

On Mon, 07 May 2012 23:03:44 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

Is that by Hylton and Matlack? I must admit, the router is not my

Yup, that's the one.

I think there is a new edition due to be published in August. I wonder
whether to wait that long?

Cam fasteners are rubbish. I have a pine cabinet and they keep on undoing
themselves and dropping out into the bottom of the unit. Grrrrrr.

Brian

--
Brian Gaff -
Note:- In order to reduce spam, any email without 'Brian Gaff'
in the display name may be lost.
Blind user, so no pictures please!
"Fred" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I've noticed that all flat pack furniture, regardless of what it is,
follows the same general construction: two rigid sides, a rigid top,
and a flimsy back. I guess they use a flimsier piece of wood for the
back to save money? The top of the sides and the bottom of the top are
drilled to accept dowels and/or cam dowels, like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cam-dowel-...ck-of-50/93435

One day, when I find time, I would like to have a go at making my own
furniture. I know it won't be as quick or as cheap as buying flat
pack, but where's the fun in that ?! I'm sure there must be a good
book I could buy about this. Can anyone recommend one?

I can see that I would use a forstner bit to drill the hole for the
cam lock and a pillar drill to accurately drill the holes for the
dowels and cam dowels.

I don't have a pillar drill at the moment. I do have to drill through
bits of wood for various projects and sometimes my holes are not as
perpendicular as I would like, so I think a pillar drill would be
useful. I have used google groups to search for old posts about pillar
drills and I have found a few recommending a 500w motor but looking at
Axminster, most of them seem to be lower than this, around the 300W
mark, unless you go for an expensive floor standing one. Is that the
only way to get the bigger motor?

Machine mart sell "Clarke metalworker" models but I'm only interested
in woodworking. What's the difference? MM also list different tapers
for different models. I've heard of Morse tapers but what are the
other types and what are the advantages /disadvantages of them?

And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!

TIA

On May 4, 11:18*am, Fred wrote:
Hi,

I've noticed that all flat pack furniture, regardless of what it is,
follows the same general construction: two rigid sides, a rigid top,
and a flimsy back. I guess they use a flimsier piece of wood for the
back to save money? The top of the sides and the bottom of the top are
drilled to accept dowels and/or cam dowels, like these:http://www.screwfix.com/p/cam-dowel-...ck-of-50/93435

One day, when I find time, I would like to have a go at making my own
furniture. I know it won't be as quick or as cheap as buying flat
pack, but where's the fun in that ?! I'm sure there must be a good
book I could buy about this. Can anyone recommend one?

I can see that I would use a forstner bit to drill the hole for the
cam lock and a pillar drill to accurately drill the holes for the
dowels and cam dowels.

I don't have a pillar drill at the moment. I do have to drill through
bits of wood for various projects and sometimes my holes are not as
perpendicular as I would like, so I think a pillar drill would be
useful. I have used google groups to search for old posts about pillar
drills and I have found a few recommending a 500w motor but looking at
Axminster, most of them seem to be lower than this, around the 300W
mark, unless you go for an expensive floor standing one. Is that the
only way to get the bigger motor?

Machine mart sell "Clarke metalworker" models but I'm only interested
in woodworking. What's the difference? MM also list different tapers
for different models. I've heard of Morse tapers but what are the
other types and what are the advantages /disadvantages of them?

And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!

TIA

Drill press:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hii71...eature=related


NT

On May 4, 11:18*am, Fred wrote:
Hi,

I've noticed that all flat pack furniture, regardless of what it is,
follows the same general construction: two rigid sides, a rigid top,
and a flimsy back. I guess they use a flimsier piece of wood for the
back to save money? The top of the sides and the bottom of the top are
drilled to accept dowels and/or cam dowels, like these:http://www.screwfix.com/p/cam-dowel-...ck-of-50/93435

One day, when I find time, I would like to have a go at making my own
furniture. I know it won't be as quick or as cheap as buying flat
pack, but where's the fun in that ?! I'm sure there must be a good
book I could buy about this. Can anyone recommend one?

I can see that I would use a forstner bit to drill the hole for the
cam lock and a pillar drill to accurately drill the holes for the
dowels and cam dowels.

I don't have a pillar drill at the moment. I do have to drill through
bits of wood for various projects and sometimes my holes are not as
perpendicular as I would like, so I think a pillar drill would be
useful. I have used google groups to search for old posts about pillar
drills and I have found a few recommending a 500w motor but looking at
Axminster, most of them seem to be lower than this, around the 300W
mark, unless you go for an expensive floor standing one. Is that the
only way to get the bigger motor?

Machine mart sell "Clarke metalworker" models but I'm only interested
in woodworking. What's the difference? MM also list different tapers
for different models. I've heard of Morse tapers but what are the
other types and what are the advantages /disadvantages of them?

And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!

TIA

The type of woodwork you describe is for cheap-**** mass produced crap-
furnture for the proletariat.

If you are going to make furniture you should learn the proper
techniques.
Not easy.

You need to find some simple projects to get going.
Learn to make the various joints and construction methods.
You need a good book on woodwork & perhaps go on a course at a
technical college.
This may give an inkling.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Woodworking_joints

The type of woodwork you describe is for cheap-**** mass produced crap-
furnture for the proletariat.


which has greatly improved living standards for the vast majority, so
don't knock it.

On May 4, 7:30*pm, stuart noble wrote:
The type of woodwork you describe is for cheap-**** mass produced crap-
furnture for the proletariat.

which has greatly improved living standards for the vast majority, so
don't knock it.

Only the ones without the nous to DIY which is what this group is
about.

On May 5, 6:39*am, harry wrote:
On May 4, 7:30*pm, stuart noble wrote:

The type of woodwork you describe is for cheap-**** mass produced crap-
furnture for the proletariat.

which has greatly improved living standards for the vast majority, so
don't knock it.

Only the ones without the nous to DIY which is what this group is
about.

Or pay someone to DIfor them...

Jim K

On 05/05/2012 06:39, harry wrote:
On May 4, 7:30 pm, stuart wrote:
The type of woodwork you describe is for cheap-**** mass produced crap-
furnture for the proletariat.

which has greatly improved living standards for the vast majority, so
don't knock it.

Only the ones without the nous to DIY which is what this group is
about.

Cheap-**** chipboard made it all possible though. Don't be such a snob.

On May 5, 9:14*am, stuart noble wrote:
On 05/05/2012 06:39, harry wrote:

On May 4, 7:30 pm, stuart *wrote:
The type of woodwork you describe is for cheap-**** mass produced crap-
furnture for the proletariat.

which has greatly improved living standards for the vast majority, so
don't knock it.

Only the ones without the nous to DIY which is what this group is
about.

Cheap-**** chipboard made it all possible though. Don't be such a snob.

Cheap **** chipboard has it's place. But when the whole thing is
cheap **** chipboard, that's way OTT.