On 04/05/2012 11:18, Fred wrote:
Hi,
I've noticed that all flat pack furniture, regardless of what it is,
follows the same general construction: two rigid sides, a rigid top,
and a flimsy back. I guess they use a flimsier piece of wood for the
back to save money? The top of the sides and the bottom of the top are
drilled to accept dowels and/or cam dowels, like these:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/cam-dowel-...ck-of-50/93435
One day, when I find time, I would like to have a go at making my own
furniture. I know it won't be as quick or as cheap as buying flat
pack, but where's the fun in that ?! I'm sure there must be a good
book I could buy about this. Can anyone recommend one?
I can see that I would use a forstner bit to drill the hole for the
cam lock and a pillar drill to accurately drill the holes for the
dowels and cam dowels.
I don't have a pillar drill at the moment. I do have to drill through
bits of wood for various projects and sometimes my holes are not as
perpendicular as I would like, so I think a pillar drill would be
useful. I have used google groups to search for old posts about pillar
drills and I have found a few recommending a 500w motor but looking at
Axminster, most of them seem to be lower than this, around the 300W
mark, unless you go for an expensive floor standing one. Is that the
only way to get the bigger motor?
Machine mart sell "Clarke metalworker" models but I'm only interested
in woodworking. What's the difference? MM also list different tapers
for different models. I've heard of Morse tapers but what are the
other types and what are the advantages /disadvantages of them?
And one last question about the furniture, if drilling a hole into the
top of a side piece, is the best way to rotate the table 90 degrees
and clamp the piece to that? That could be difficult if you want to
build a tall wardrobe/bookcase/etc. as you would need the drill to be
taller than the piece. I don't suppose there is any other way, such as
a drill that rotates!
TIA
As others have said, it's very difficult to get the same accuracy with
knife and fork methods which mass production factories can achieve with
elaborate jigs.
The only advantage to the end user of this type of construction is that
it can sometimes (but not always if dowels and glue are also used) be
dismantled again should you wish to do so.
If you *don't* see a need to dismantle it, you will get a far better job
by using a different method of construction. Dovetails have already been
mentioned, but dowels[1] or biscuit joints[2] are also ok, and are far
easier to get right than the method you suggest.
If you are going to use any method which involves glue, it's a good idea
to have some sash clamps to hold everything together until the glue has
dried.
[1] You can buy a dowelling jig like this for a few quid, making it easy
to drill accurate dowel holes in both pieces
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...0/sd150/p22284
[2] A biscuit jointer such as this will cost a bit more, but has quite
a few uses. [I bought mine when it was on offer at 40-odd quid!]
http://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-er...uestid=2088851
--
Cheers,
Roger
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