Ok this may sound obvious to you guys but I just want to check.
I am about to start and do my partition wall, I assume I should do the
head plate first so I can use a plumb line for lining up the sole plate?
Or do I do the sole plate and use an upright with spirit level for the
head plate.
Or does it matter which is first.

On 15/02/2012 20:36, ss wrote:
Ok this may sound obvious to you guys but I just want to check.
I am about to start and do my partition wall, I assume I should do the
head plate first so I can use a plumb line for lining up the sole plate?
Or do I do the sole plate and use an upright with spirit level for the
head plate.
Or does it matter which is first.

Doesn't matter. Start with whichever one needs to be in a particular
position/orientation relative to other features.
--
Cheers,
Roger
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Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

In article , ss
writes
Ok this may sound obvious to you guys but I just want to check.
I am about to start and do my partition wall, I assume I should do the
head plate first so I can use a plumb line for lining up the sole plate?
Or do I do the sole plate and use an upright with spirit level for the
head plate.
Or does it matter which is first.

Neither :-), build your partition on the floor and then lift it into
place. Shim the top plate to the ceiling to take up the gap and fix into
the ceiling.

This way is easier and makes the vertical alignment a piece of ****.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

fred wrote:
Neither :-), build your partition on the floor and then lift it into
place. Shim the top plate to the ceiling to take up the gap and fix into
the ceiling.

After reading up that this was the "proper" way to do it, that's how
I did a parition wall. God, it was a pain. You do realise that the
workspace you have to construct it in is within a couple of
millimeteres exactly the same size as the object you're trying to
construct. How do you get your hammer onto the outside of the
uprights when the uprights are butted up against the walls?
And trying to rotate it upwards into the vertical without it
catching on every slight off-square bump in the walls, floors,
or ceiling. Argh!

Every other parition wall I've done I've done by the tried and
tested bit-by-bit construction. Floor plate first, make the
first upright with some noggins, put upright in place, with
another temporary upright to hold the ceiling plate in place,
then add uprights and noggins as you go.

JGH

jgharston wrote:

fred wrote:
Neither :-), build your partition on the floor and then lift it into
place. Shim the top plate to the ceiling to take up the gap and fix into
the ceiling.

After reading up that this was the "proper" way to do it, that's how
I did a parition wall. God, it was a pain. You do realise that the
workspace you have to construct it in is within a couple of
millimeteres exactly the same size as the object you're trying to
construct. How do you get your hammer onto the outside of the
uprights when the uprights are butted up against the walls?
And trying to rotate it upwards into the vertical without it
catching on every slight off-square bump in the walls, floors,
or ceiling. Argh!

Every other parition wall I've done I've done by the tried and
tested bit-by-bit construction. Floor plate first, make the
first upright with some noggins, put upright in place, with
another temporary upright to hold the ceiling plate in place,
then add uprights and noggins as you go.

JGH

I did a small one that happened to be perpendicular to the ceiling joists. I
used some screwtite's through the ceiling plate into the joists above. Floor
plate was plumbed off ceiling plate then screwed down. Uprights then cut to
be a "tap" fit and scrived in with diagonally applied screws.


--
Tim Watts

In article
,
jgharston writes
fred wrote:
Neither :-), build your partition on the floor and then lift it into
place. Shim the top plate to the ceiling to take up the gap and fix into
the ceiling.

After reading up that this was the "proper" way to do it, that's how
I did a parition wall. God, it was a pain. You do realise that the
workspace you have to construct it in is within a couple of
millimeteres exactly the same size as the object you're trying to
construct. How do you get your hammer onto the outside of the
uprights when the uprights are butted up against the walls?
And trying to rotate it upwards into the vertical without it
catching on every slight off-square bump in the walls, floors,
or ceiling. Argh!

Hammer? Ah, you did this a while ago ;-)

The benefit for me was pre-prep in bulk, chop sawing 10 or so verticals
at once to the same size, same with noggins. All screwed together with
framing screws (Screwtites), outers first to set out a square (well,
rectangle) and true it up. No slant screwing on the verticals as they
went straight through the end plates. I think I staggered the noggins so
that I could again straight screw them but IIRC there was some slant
screwing, perhaps at the close to the wall end. I didn't have a problem
at the other wall end as it was a corner partition which I think may be
the case with SS too.

It all went together very quickly and quietly which was important as it
was in an office space.

I remembered after posting that I fixed a wide batten into the ceiling
first as I was using plugs to fit into lath and plaster then shimmed the
gap once in the vertical and screwed through the top plate into the
batten.

Every other parition wall I've done I've done by the tried and
tested bit-by-bit construction. Floor plate first, make the
first upright with some noggins, put upright in place, with
another temporary upright to hold the ceiling plate in place,
then add uprights and noggins as you go.

Takes time but I'm sure that method still has its place.
--
fred
it's a ba-na-na . . . .

On 15/02/2012 20:36, ss wrote:
Ok this may sound obvious to you guys but I just want to check.
I am about to start and do my partition wall, I assume I should do the
head plate first so I can use a plumb line for lining up the sole plate?
Or do I do the sole plate and use an upright with spirit level for the
head plate.
Or does it matter which is first.

See the comment in bold here - passed onto me by a chippy of many years
experience:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...uilding_a_wall

Basically lay the sole plate, the wedge in the top using a stud or two.
Then fix both in position - but if nailing, don't drive the nails right
home.

Build the rest of the wall, then pull the nails / unscrew the fixings
enough to enable you to get everything exactly in position (you can
shift the entire wall studwork by clomping it with a sledge/club
hammer!). When you are happy with the position, fix it.

That way you don't have to worry about anything shifting as you build it
etc.

--
Cheers,

John.

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\================================================= ================/

On 16/02/2012 00:01, John Rumm wrote:
On 15/02/2012 20:36, ss wrote:
Ok this may sound obvious to you guys but I just want to check.
I am about to start and do my partition wall, I assume I should do the
head plate first so I can use a plumb line for lining up the sole plate?
Or do I do the sole plate and use an upright with spirit level for the
head plate.
Or does it matter which is first.

See the comment in bold here - passed onto me by a chippy of many years
experience:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...uilding_a_wall

Basically lay the sole plate, the wedge in the top using a stud or two.
Then fix both in position - but if nailing, don't drive the nails right
home.

Build the rest of the wall, then pull the nails / unscrew the fixings
enough to enable you to get everything exactly in position (you can
shift the entire wall studwork by clomping it with a sledge/club
hammer!). When you are happy with the position, fix it.

That way you don't have to worry about anything shifting as you build it
etc.


Thanks all for the replies.
some useful guidance.

On 16/02/2012 00:01, John Rumm wrote:
On 15/02/2012 20:36, ss wrote:
Ok this may sound obvious to you guys but I just want to check.
I am about to start and do my partition wall, I assume I should do the
head plate first so I can use a plumb line for lining up the sole plate?
Or do I do the sole plate and use an upright with spirit level for the
head plate.
Or does it matter which is first.

See the comment in bold here - passed onto me by a chippy of many years
experience:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...uilding_a_wall

Basically lay the sole plate, the wedge in the top using a stud or two.
Then fix both in position - but if nailing, don't drive the nails right
home.

Build the rest of the wall, then pull the nails / unscrew the fixings
enough to enable you to get everything exactly in position (you can
shift the entire wall studwork by clomping it with a sledge/club
hammer!). When you are happy with the position, fix it.

That way you don't have to worry about anything shifting as you build it
etc.


John I found your article on wiki.diy most useful, the only thing I
would add as an expert in the process of building my first ever stud
wall :-) is possibly an additional row of noggins on the base plate in
order to give `extra` wood for nailing skirtings.

ss wrote:
On 16/02/2012 00:01, John Rumm wrote:
On 15/02/2012 20:36, ss wrote:
Ok this may sound obvious to you guys but I just want to check.
I am about to start and do my partition wall, I assume I should do
the head plate first so I can use a plumb line for lining up the
sole plate? Or do I do the sole plate and use an upright with
spirit level for the head plate.
Or does it matter which is first.

See the comment in bold here - passed onto me by a chippy of many
years experience:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...uilding_a_wall

Basically lay the sole plate, the wedge in the top using a stud or
two. Then fix both in position - but if nailing, don't drive the
nails right home.

Build the rest of the wall, then pull the nails / unscrew the fixings
enough to enable you to get everything exactly in position (you can
shift the entire wall studwork by clomping it with a sledge/club
hammer!). When you are happy with the position, fix it.

That way you don't have to worry about anything shifting as you
build it etc.


John I found your article on wiki.diy most useful, the only thing I
would add as an expert in the process of building my first ever stud
wall :-) is possibly an additional row of noggins on the base plate
in order to give `extra` wood for nailing skirtings.

ss,

At what centres are your uprights, as your skirtings are naied to these - so
there is no need for additional noggins at the base?

Cash

On 23/02/2012 18:41, Cash wrote:
ss wrote:
On 16/02/2012 00:01, John Rumm wrote:
On 15/02/2012 20:36, ss wrote:
Ok this may sound obvious to you guys but I just want to check.
I am about to start and do my partition wall, I assume I should do
the head plate first so I can use a plumb line for lining up the
sole plate? Or do I do the sole plate and use an upright with
spirit level for the head plate.
Or does it matter which is first.

See the comment in bold here - passed onto me by a chippy of many
years experience:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...uilding_a_wall

Basically lay the sole plate, the wedge in the top using a stud or
two. Then fix both in position - but if nailing, don't drive the
nails right home.

Build the rest of the wall, then pull the nails / unscrew the fixings
enough to enable you to get everything exactly in position (you can
shift the entire wall studwork by clomping it with a sledge/club
hammer!). When you are happy with the position, fix it.

That way you don't have to worry about anything shifting as you
build it etc.


John I found your article on wiki.diy most useful, the only thing I
would add as an expert in the process of building my first ever stud
wall :-) is possibly an additional row of noggins on the base plate
in order to give `extra` wood for nailing skirtings.

ss,

At what centres are your uprights, as your skirtings are naied to these - so
there is no need for additional noggins at the base?

Cash


Valid point, Can you tell its my first time.
Centres are at 400.

ss wrote:
On 23/02/2012 18:41, Cash wrote:
ss wrote:
On 16/02/2012 00:01, John Rumm wrote:
On 15/02/2012 20:36, ss wrote:
Ok this may sound obvious to you guys but I just want to check.
I am about to start and do my partition wall, I assume I should do
the head plate first so I can use a plumb line for lining up the
sole plate? Or do I do the sole plate and use an upright with
spirit level for the head plate.
Or does it matter which is first.

See the comment in bold here - passed onto me by a chippy of many
years experience:

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...uilding_a_wall

Basically lay the sole plate, the wedge in the top using a stud or
two. Then fix both in position - but if nailing, don't drive the
nails right home.

Build the rest of the wall, then pull the nails / unscrew the
fixings enough to enable you to get everything exactly in position
(you can shift the entire wall studwork by clomping it with a
sledge/club hammer!). When you are happy with the position, fix it.

That way you don't have to worry about anything shifting as you
build it etc.


John I found your article on wiki.diy most useful, the only thing I
would add as an expert in the process of building my first ever stud
wall :-) is possibly an additional row of noggins on the base plate
in order to give `extra` wood for nailing skirtings.

ss,

At what centres are your uprights, as your skirtings are naied to
these - so there is no need for additional noggins at the base?

Cash


Valid point, Can you tell its my first time.
Centres are at 400.

ss,

Nail the skirtings at every upright and you'll be ok.

Cash

ss wrote:
John I found your article on wiki.diy most useful, the only thing I
would add as an expert in the process of building my first ever stud
wall *:-) is possibly an additional row of noggins on the base plate in
order to give `extra` wood for nailing skirtings.

Good idea, and if the wall is going to have a radiator on, put some
extra noggins lined up with the radiator brackets.

JGH

I'v been watching Mike Holmes of Canada TV,
when building fences and partitions he insists
that they see which way the wood curves (I forget the name for that)
and put all the uprights with the curve the same way,
(or else the plasterboard looks wavy)

[george]

On 24/02/2012 09:38, george [dicegeorge] wrote:
I'v been watching Mike Holmes of Canada TV,
when building fences and partitions he insists
that they see which way the wood curves (I forget the name for that)

"Camber"

and put all the uprights with the curve the same way,
(or else the plasterboard looks wavy)

Yup, probably worth adding... Its something I always remember to do on
floor joists (camber up) - but probably pay less attention on walls
unless the timber is particularly wonky.

(well worth checking when buying it though - I usually pick through the
stuff in the store room and leave anything that is too far out)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/