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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Oils for wood
What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish,
Tung, Teak , etc. I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? Thanks Rob |
#2
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Oils for wood
"robgraham" wrote in message ... What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? WD40 ;-) |
#3
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Oils for wood
In message , RCW
writes "robgraham" wrote in message ... What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? WD40 ;-) Was that a tongue-in-cheek ;-) ? Actually, WD40 does a pretty good job of preserving wood. -- Ian .. |
#4
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Oils for wood
On 09/12/2011 17:09, Ian Jackson wrote:
In message , RCW writes "robgraham" wrote in message ... What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? WD40 ;-) Was that a tongue-in-cheek ;-) ? Actually, WD40 does a pretty good job of preserving wood. Does it? It certainly creates a surface sheen that reflects light and gives the illusion of a seal. Whether it offers any real resistance to water and/or uv is another matter. |
#5
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Oils for wood
In message , stuart noble
writes On 09/12/2011 17:09, Ian Jackson wrote: In message , RCW writes "robgraham" wrote in message ... What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? WD40 ;-) Was that a tongue-in-cheek ;-) ? Actually, WD40 does a pretty good job of preserving wood. Does it? It certainly creates a surface sheen that reflects light and gives the illusion of a seal. Whether it offers any real resistance to water and/or uv is another matter. Well, it does seem to prevent rot. As it seems to do a pretty good job of killing off vegetation (which you may have found out if you've ever accidentally sprayed some on your lawn), I presume it also kills the organisms which cause rot. -- Ian --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- |
#6
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Oils for wood
On Dec 8, 5:35*pm, robgraham wrote:
What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. *I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? Thanks Rob Teak oil doesn't have driers in it, so ittakes an age to stop being sticky, unless you wipe of all the surface oil. I would use Danish oil. Jonathan |
#7
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Oils for wood
On 08/12/2011 18:15, Jonathan wrote:
On Dec 8, 5:35 pm, wrote: What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? Thanks Rob Teak oil doesn't have driers in it, so ittakes an age to stop being sticky, unless you wipe of all the surface oil. I would use Danish oil. I would too. Especially since I have a bit left on the shelf. Although I would probably have applied it a month or two back to allow plenty of time for it to dry/polymerise before wrspping it up. Teak oil might be better if it is to live outside permanently in the elements and the oil is applied in situ. Oh and the OP should remember that any rags soaked in this stuff can release heat on polymerising and if you are very unlucky spontaneously catch fire after a while. Regards, Martin Brown |
#8
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Oils for wood
On Dec 9, 1:00*pm, Martin Brown
wrote: On 08/12/2011 18:15, Jonathan wrote: On Dec 8, 5:35 pm, *wrote: What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. *I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? Thanks Rob Teak oil doesn't have driers in it, so ittakes an age to stop being sticky, unless you wipe of all the surface oil. I would use Danish oil. I would too. Especially since I have a bit left on the shelf. Although I would probably have applied it a month or two back to allow plenty of time for it to dry/polymerise before wrspping it up. Teak oil might be better if it is to live outside permanently in the elements and the oil is applied in situ. Oh and the OP should remember that any rags soaked in this stuff can release heat on polymerising and if you are very unlucky spontaneously catch fire after a while. This how to apply danish oil to open pored timber: http://woodworking.com/ww/Article/Su...nish_7507.aspx |
#9
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Oils for wood
On 08/12/11 17:35, robgraham wrote:
What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? Thanks Rob Some "dry" and form a varnish, some don't. Of those that dry, some take longer than others - some are assisted by "driers" (additives). Some are toxic (mostly because of toxic additives). Some are "food safe" (apparently, some non-toxic oils can react with stuff in food to produce toxins, so non-toxic is not necessarily safe for prolonged contact with food). For a drying oil, to be ready for Christmas, use Danish oil. Leave wrapping it until the last possible moment so it has as much time to cure as possible, and doesn't have a smooth surface in contact with the finish for long (else you'll tend to get shiny spots where there was contact). Starting now for Christmas 2012, I'd use Tung oil in many coats with plenty of time between coats to produce a deep lustrous coating that doesn't change the colour of the wood much and provides a very durable finish. For a non-drying oil, use something like caster oil or baby lotion. And for something in the middle, walnut oil. It dries naturally, but only very slowly. Note: drying is a term of art. Chemically, it is polymerisation and cross linking. |
#10
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Oils for wood
On Dec 8, 5:35*pm, robgraham wrote:
What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. *I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? It basically comes down to how often you want to polish it. A pourus wood wants all sorts of preparation, a close grained wood you can just go straight to the finish. With a long lasting hard shine finish tung oil will be the hardest. It is or was used in paints and varnishes to accelerate the hardening process. Oil finishes require re-polishing every year or so but that is just to remove dirty wax. You use a little turps on wire wool then oil it again. With a hard finish a clean up is a major sand down that is only needed very infrequently. Yer pays yer munee... Tung oiled rags and wire can catch fire without being anywhere near a flame. Dispose of carefully. |
#11
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Oils for wood
On 09/12/2011 13:01, Weatherlawyer wrote:
On Dec 8, 5:35 pm, wrote: What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? It basically comes down to how often you want to polish it. A pourus wood wants all sorts of preparation, a close grained wood you can just go straight to the finish. With a long lasting hard shine finish tung oil will be the hardest. It is or was used in paints and varnishes to accelerate the hardening process. Oil finishes require re-polishing every year or so but that is just to remove dirty wax. You use a little turps on wire wool then oil it again. With a hard finish a clean up is a major sand down that is only needed very infrequently. Yer pays yer munee... Tung oiled rags and wire can catch fire without being anywhere near a flame. Dispose of carefully. IME no finish lasts long outdoors. I leave everything to go silver grey |
#12
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Oils for wood
On Dec 9, 3:44*pm, stuart noble wrote:
On 09/12/2011 13:01, Weatherlawyer wrote: On Dec 8, 5:35 pm, *wrote: What's the difference between the various oils for woods - Danish, Tung, Teak , etc. *I've made a wooden item for Xmas presents and it could well get left out so if any finish an oil would be best but which one ? It basically comes down to how often you want to polish it. A pourus wood wants all sorts of preparation, a close grained wood you can just go straight to the finish. With a long lasting hard shine finish tung oil will be the hardest. It is or was used in paints and varnishes to accelerate the hardening process. Oil finishes require re-polishing every year or so but that is just to remove dirty wax. You use a little turps on wire wool then oil it again. With a hard finish a clean up is a major sand down that is only needed very infrequently. Yer pays yer munee... Tung oiled rags and wire can catch fire without being anywhere near a flame. Dispose of carefully. IME no finish lasts long outdoors. I leave everything to go silver grey Many thanks, guys, for your advice and knowledge. think I may have made a minor problem for myself in that items in question - holders for balls of garden twine - are for a craft sale next Saturday. It sounds as if no more than two coats of Danish oil and some drying in the house. I could leave them raw but I feel some sort of finish is required. I've made them out of ash as that is what I had and am not sure in hindsight that was the best wood as if they do get left out - and any self respecting gardener should of course put his tools away ... but does forget sometimes - the open grainness of the wood will be prone to absorbing water regardless of the finish. Rob |
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