As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

So....My questions: Has anyone resolved this issue before? Do I
really have to get a bog (there's a 2 week wait on the one SWMBO would
like, and the builder will be away long before then) to predict the
dimensions or are we over-doing the issue here? It seems to me this
is an area where the EU could do something useful for a change, by
setting some standard dimensions.

Secondly: I have to add a hand basin into our upstairs facilities,
where there hasn't been one before. I'm moving the toilet a bit
sideways at the same time (so will have to use a flexible on this). I
have seen pan connectors with with an inlet for a sink waste but on
the top of a flexible it just looks precarious to me. Does anyone
know if it's possible to find a socket that can go into the outlet on
the floor that takes a sink waste (and then accepts the toilet
waste)? I haven't found any, but perhaps someone knows of an obscure
source (fingers crossed).

Cheers

On Nov 27, 9:25 am, GMM wrote:
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

google for a tech drawing of your chosen bog?

what's wrong with a flexi connector anyway?

Jim K

Jim K wrote:

On Nov 27, 9:25 am, GMM wrote:
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

google for a tech drawing of your chosen bog?

what's wrong with a flexi connector anyway?

Bets avoided if you can do it right IMO. The corrugations are a fouling
point to catch onto paper.

Yep - some of the manufacturers have tech drawings - or you can go into the
shop and measure.

OP: If your pipe is emerging from the floor, then I would opt for a push fit
socket flush with the floor finish, or just a fraction above. That worked
with mine and allowed a 110mm tee on which the pan connector went. The top
of the tee was used to fit an AAV (if required - replace tee with elbow if
not). This is assuming the pipe comes up in the corner to the left or right
of the loo. Is yours?

Cheers

Tim

--
Tim Watts

On Nov 27, 10:28 am, Tim Watts wrote:
Jim K wrote:
On Nov 27, 9:25 am, GMM wrote:
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

google for a tech drawing of your chosen bog?

what's wrong with a flexi connector anyway?

Bets avoided if you can do it right IMO. The corrugations are a fouling
point to catch onto paper.

well, one I used (Jollyflex I think) has a smooth bore no corrugations
- 2 kids & 3 years later & no probs... yet ;)

Jim K

Jim K wrote:

On Nov 27, 10:28 am, Tim Watts wrote:
Jim K wrote:
On Nov 27, 9:25 am, GMM wrote:
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

google for a tech drawing of your chosen bog?

what's wrong with a flexi connector anyway?

Bets avoided if you can do it right IMO. The corrugations are a fouling
point to catch onto paper.

well, one I used (Jollyflex I think) has a smooth bore no corrugations
- 2 kids & 3 years later & no probs... yet ;)


That is useful to know - all the ones I've seen were corrugated

--
Tim Watts

On Nov 27, 10:28*am, Tim Watts wrote:
Jim K wrote:
On Nov 27, 9:25 am, GMM wrote:
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. *From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. *The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. *Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. *He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. *I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

google for a tech drawing of your chosen bog?

what's wrong with a flexi connector anyway?

Bets avoided if you can do it right IMO. The corrugations are a fouling
point to catch onto paper.

Yep - some of the manufacturers have tech drawings - or you can go into the
shop and measure.

OP: If your pipe is emerging from the floor, then I would opt for a push fit
socket flush with the floor finish, or just a fraction above. That worked
with mine and allowed a 110mm tee on which the pan connector went. The top
of the tee was used to fit an AAV (if required - replace tee with elbow if
not). This is assuming the pipe comes up in the corner to the left or right
of the loo. Is yours?

Cheers

Tim

--
Tim Watts

Thanks Tim: That's good to know - I'll see if I can arrange that set
up in mine.

On Nov 27, 10:53*am, Jim K wrote:
On Nov 27, 10:28 am, Tim Watts wrote:





Jim K wrote:
On Nov 27, 9:25 am, GMM wrote:
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. *From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. *The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. *Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. *He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. *I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

google for a tech drawing of your chosen bog?

what's wrong with a flexi connector anyway?

Bets avoided if you can do it right IMO. The corrugations are a fouling
point to catch onto paper.

well, one I used (Jollyflex I think) has a smooth bore no corrugations
- 2 kids & 3 years later & no probs... yet ;)

Jim K

Interesting - any idea where they can be tracked down?

I spent half an hour at the plumbers merchants yesterday poring over
the specs and we could only find a few (unsuitable) ones where the
appropriate dimension was specified. One plan is to opt for the same
model as I'll b collecting on Wednesday for replacing the current
toilet, and measure that up.

On Sun, 27 Nov 2011 10:28:43 -0000, Tim Watts wrote:


Bets avoided if you can do it right IMO. The corrugations are a fouling
point to catch onto paper.



Can't deny that is what I thought. But I had reason to temporarily connect
a bog using one for several months of regular use. And then, when it came
to final fitting, found the flexi-pipe remarkably clean - and had no
problems with anything fouling or anything else. The only oddity was the
slightly strange noise the pipe made during a flush.

--
Rod

On Nov 27, 11:09 am, GMM wrote:
On Nov 27, 10:53 am, Jim K wrote:



On Nov 27, 10:28 am, Tim Watts wrote:

Jim K wrote:
On Nov 27, 9:25 am, GMM wrote:
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

google for a tech drawing of your chosen bog?

what's wrong with a flexi connector anyway?

Bets avoided if you can do it right IMO. The corrugations are a fouling
point to catch onto paper.

well, one I used (Jollyflex I think) has a smooth bore no corrugations
- 2 kids & 3 years later & no probs... yet ;)

Jim K

Interesting - any idea where they can be tracked down?

no biggy - usual toolsatan, screwfux etc

e.g. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Plum...ors/d20/sd2887

Jim K

On 27/11/2011 09:25, GMM wrote:
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

So....My questions: Has anyone resolved this issue before? Do I
really have to get a bog (there's a 2 week wait on the one SWMBO would
like, and the builder will be away long before then) to predict the
dimensions or are we over-doing the issue here? It seems to me this
is an area where the EU could do something useful for a change, by
setting some standard dimensions.

Secondly: I have to add a hand basin into our upstairs facilities,
where there hasn't been one before. I'm moving the toilet a bit
sideways at the same time (so will have to use a flexible on this). I
have seen pan connectors with with an inlet for a sink waste but on
the top of a flexible it just looks precarious to me. Does anyone
know if it's possible to find a socket that can go into the outlet on
the floor that takes a sink waste (and then accepts the toilet
waste)? I haven't found any, but perhaps someone knows of an obscure
source (fingers crossed).

Cheers

It would be hard to have absolute standards - particularly when using
close-couples cisterns - because the bog has to be positioned so that
the cistern is against the wall - and the outlet position is determined
by that. [When I fitted one in an outside cloakroom, I was strapped for
space - and used a slim-line cistern - which moved the bog closer to the
wall than it would otherwise have been. See the picture below].

You've got far more scope if the bog's outlet is horizontal rather than
pointing down - because you can get 90 degree bog connectors with
various offsets - so you should be able to find one to fit.

When I did mine, [I did already had the bog and connector] I worked out
where the pipe in the floor needed to be, and simply set a vertical
piece of 110mm pipe (with no end fittings) into the floor - which I cut
off flush once the screed had set. The connector is the type with rubber
flanges on the outside - suitable for plugging straight into a piece of
pipe. This is what the end result looks like:
http://www.mills37.plus.com/Bog.JPG
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On Nov 27, 12:25*pm, Roger Mills wrote:
On 27/11/2011 09:25, GMM wrote:





As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. *From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. *The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. *Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. *He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. *I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

So....My questions: *Has anyone resolved this issue before? *Do I
really have to get a bog (there's a 2 week wait on the one SWMBO would
like, and the builder will be away long before then) to predict the
dimensions or are we over-doing the issue here? *It seems to me this
is an area where the EU could do something useful for a change, by
setting some standard dimensions.

Secondly: *I have to add a hand basin into our upstairs facilities,
where there hasn't been one before. *I'm moving the toilet a bit
sideways at the same time (so will have to use a flexible on this). *I
have seen pan connectors with with an inlet for a sink waste but on
the top of a flexible it just looks precarious to me. *Does anyone
know if it's possible to find a socket that can go into the outlet on
the floor that takes a sink waste (and then accepts the toilet
waste)? *I haven't found any, but perhaps someone knows of an obscure
source (fingers crossed).

Cheers

It would be hard to have absolute standards - particularly when using
close-couples cisterns - because the bog has to be positioned so that
the cistern is against the wall - and the outlet position is determined
by that. [When I fitted one in an outside cloakroom, I was strapped for
space - and used a slim-line cistern - which moved the bog closer to the
wall than it would otherwise have been. See the picture below].

You've got far more scope if the bog's outlet is horizontal rather than
pointing down - because you can get 90 degree bog connectors with
various offsets - so you should be able to find one to fit.

When I did mine, [I did already had the bog and connector] I worked out
where the pipe in the floor needed to be, and simply set a vertical
piece of 110mm pipe (with no end fittings) into the floor - which I cut
off flush once the screed had set. The connector is the type with rubber
flanges on the outside - suitable for plugging straight into a piece of
pipe. This is what the end result looks like:http://www.mills37.plus.com/Bog.JPG
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

Precisely what I'm looking to achieve. I rather agree that it should
be possible to guesstimate then fiddle the fitting to that. I'm
replacing the other bog precisely because it's an old jobbie that has
a downward facing outlet: This was stuck into the pipe in the floor
with whatever gunk they used in those days, with the obvious result
that movement over the years has cracked it. New style horizontal
outlets and plastic couplers solve that problem but seem to bring this
issue of not knowing where the outlet should be.
Hopefully, I'll receive my replacement for the cracked one in time to
be able to give the builder exact dimensions, then if I get another of
those, it should all work out.
I was just surprised, I suppose, to find there aren't any fixed values
for this and it's a suck it and see exercise every time.

On 27/11/2011 09:25, GMM wrote:

The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

So....My questions: Has anyone resolved this issue before? Do I
really have to get a bog (there's a 2 week wait on the one SWMBO would
like, and the builder will be away long before then) to predict the
dimensions or are we over-doing the issue here?

One option would be to go for a socket in the floor right up against the
wall, then using a 90 degree pan connector from the output of a
conventional P trap bog.

Have a look at:

http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/wc-connectors.html

they have a vast range of options.

It seems to me this
is an area where the EU could do something useful for a change, by
setting some standard dimensions.

Sounds like a recipe for an EU standard bog with EU standard turd that
only flushes if you are on an EU standard diet with an EU standard
sphincter!

Secondly: I have to add a hand basin into our upstairs facilities,
where there hasn't been one before. I'm moving the toilet a bit
sideways at the same time (so will have to use a flexible on this). I
have seen pan connectors with with an inlet for a sink waste but on
the top of a flexible it just looks precarious to me. Does anyone
know if it's possible to find a socket that can go into the outlet on
the floor that takes a sink waste (and then accepts the toilet
waste)? I haven't found any, but perhaps someone knows of an obscure
source (fingers crossed).

Going with the theme from above:

http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/wc-c...vent-boss.html


or

http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/4-11...vent-boss.html



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

GMM wrote:


Thanks Tim: That's good to know - I'll see if I can arrange that set
up in mine.

Down the bottom of this page:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...54496300833473

is how I did mine...

--
Tim Watts

On Sun, 27 Nov 2011 05:25:38 -0800 (PST), GMM
wrote:

I was just surprised, I suppose, to find there aren't any fixed values
for this and it's a suck it and see exercise every time.

That's about the size of it.
It would make life much simpler if there was a standard.

On Nov 27, 3:01*pm, John Rumm wrote:
On 27/11/2011 09:25, GMM wrote:

The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. *Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. *He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. *I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

So....My questions: *Has anyone resolved this issue before? *Do I
really have to get a bog (there's a 2 week wait on the one SWMBO would
like, and the builder will be away long before then) to predict the
dimensions or are we over-doing the issue here?

One option would be to go for a socket in the floor right up against the
wall, then using a 90 degree pan connector from the output of a
conventional P trap bog.

Have a look at:

http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/wc-connectors.html

they have a vast range of options.

It seems to me this
is an area where the EU could do something useful for a change, by
setting some standard dimensions.

Sounds like a recipe for an EU standard bog with EU standard turd that
only flushes if you are on an EU standard diet with an EU standard
sphincter!


Hmm - you might be right - it could be the end of the traditional
British Standard versions.......

On Nov 27, 4:23*pm, Tim Watts wrote:
GMM wrote:

Thanks Tim: *That's good to know - I'll see if I can arrange that set
up in mine.

Down the bottom of this page:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...2/albums/56465...

is how I did mine...

--
Tim Watts

All this makes the idea of boxing it all in seem a worthwhile
proposition. I did consider that but over the years I've developed a
bit of a phobia of putting anything that can go wrong into a space
where I can't get two hands and my head to each part of it! I'm
probably being over pessimistic but I know who will get the job of
fixing anything that fails in a bizarre and unusual way......

GMM wrote:

On Nov 27, 4:23 pm, Tim Watts wrote:
GMM wrote:

Thanks Tim: That's good to know - I'll see if I can arrange that set
up in mine.

Down the bottom of this page:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...2/albums/56465...

is how I did mine...

--
Tim Watts

All this makes the idea of boxing it all in seem a worthwhile
proposition. I did consider that but over the years I've developed a
bit of a phobia of putting anything that can go wrong into a space
where I can't get two hands and my head to each part of it! I'm
probably being over pessimistic but I know who will get the job of
fixing anything that fails in a bizarre and unusual way......

That's why my box is just the height required to contain the parts, the lid
is a drop loose fit and acts as a convenient shelf for bog rolls

Alll parts can be inspected and AAV[1] removed from the top with the front
in place and in the worst case, the stainless steel screws are under silicon
"plugs" in the tiled grout lineso the removal of the panel only requires re-
siliconing at worst

[1] AAV most likely to require any maintenance. Other parts would require
the bog to be removed, but the need to replace basic connectors is extremely
unlikely.

--
Tim Watts

"GMM" wrote in message
...
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

So....My questions: Has anyone resolved this issue before? Do I
really have to get a bog (there's a 2 week wait on the one SWMBO would
like, and the builder will be away long before then) to predict the



I just got the manufacturer tech spec ... and set pipes to match .. allow
for wall finish thickness (catches out many)
Don't go flexy pipe route

On Nov 28, 11:53 am, "Rick Hughes"
wrote:
"GMM" wrote in message

...



As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

So....My questions: Has anyone resolved this issue before? Do I
really have to get a bog (there's a 2 week wait on the one SWMBO would
like, and the builder will be away long before then) to predict the

I just got the manufacturer tech spec ... and set pipes to match .. allow
for wall finish thickness (catches out many)
Don't go flexy pipe route

oh? any experiences to add?

Jim K

On Monday, November 28, 2011 11:53:17 AM UTC, Rick Hughes wrote:
"GMM" wrote in message
...
As part of a non-DIY (sorry folks but it's a big job) replacement of
all our drains, we are laying a connection to create a new downstairs
cloakroom from half of an existing pantry. From the layout etc, I can
predict exactly where the (yet to be built) 'back' wall will be. The
toilet will back onto this and the waste will run under this wall (if
that makes sense!).
The builder (all round good bloke) wants to lay the pipes but leave
the end unfinished, so I can cut it to match the toilet. Good in
principle, but I'd rather have the heavy building work done an
dusted. He, and (independently) my friendly local plumbers merchants,
both say that all toilets differ. I'm sure they are right but equally
sure that there must be a 'good compromise' position for a socket in
the floor or nobody would ever be able to replace a broken bog without
using a flexible connector.

So....My questions: Has anyone resolved this issue before? Do I
really have to get a bog (there's a 2 week wait on the one SWMBO would
like, and the builder will be away long before then) to predict the



I just got the manufacturer tech spec ... and set pipes to match .. allow
for wall finish thickness (catches out many)

I allowed about 15mm for wall finish (from bare plasterboard) as it will be tiled (not done yet). However, in practice there is tolerance in the connectors to allow for 20mm either way. This is for a "back to wall" loo, where all connections will be under the china.
Simon.

GMM wrote:
On Nov 27, 4:23 pm, Tim Watts wrote:
GMM wrote:

Thanks Tim: That's good to know - I'll see if I can arrange that set
up in mine.
Down the bottom of this page:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...2/albums/56465...

is how I did mine...

--
Tim Watts

All this makes the idea of boxing it all in seem a worthwhile
proposition. I did consider that but over the years I've developed a
bit of a phobia of putting anything that can go wrong into a space
where I can't get two hands and my head to each part of it! I'm
probably being over pessimistic but I know who will get the job of
fixing anything that fails in a bizarre and unusual way......

Having actually built and boxed in a load of stuff, I am sanguine. What
I built once I can rip out and build again.. ok its an excuse for Her to
change the decor ;-)

Tim Watts wrote:
Down the bottom of this page:
https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/1...2/albums/56465...
is how I did mine...

That's exactly what I was going to recommend - put the pipe as far
into a
corner as possible, and that gives you the horizontal run to the pan
for
adjustment flexibility. That's how I did one of my flats.

JGH

Tim Watts wrote:
Alll parts can be inspected and AAV[1] removed from the top with the
front in place and in the worst case, the stainless steel screws are
under silicon "plugs" in the tiled grout lineso the removal of the
panel only requires re- siliconing at worst

[1] AAV most likely to require any maintenance. Other parts would
require the bog to be removed, but the need to replace basic
connectors is extremely unlikely.

When my parents had their bathroom done I fitted an AAV and removed the
stack that went through the roof.

12 months later my Dad complained that the AAV was making a funny noise. I
discovered that all the drains were blocked somewhere between their next
door neighbours house and next door but one neighbours house.

I'll bet you cannot guess who got the job of clearing that one?

And for my second question. Can you guess who had to climb down the 7ft
manhole to remove an obstruction from the sewer? (not helped by the
neighbour saying "that's not my ****, mine smells of roses" just as I was
climbing down the manhole)

--
Adam

* Sometimes I like to lay in my neighbours garden and pretend to be a
carrot *