Helping my daughter spruce up her house before she rents it out.
One issue is some water ingress on the gable end.
Builder pointed out that there was virtually no overhang of the tiles on the
gable end.

From http://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm

"Verge tiles should overhang the building fabric by between 38 and 50mm.
Less than 38mm and watermarks will show down the face of the wall. Greater
than 50mm and end tiles in each row will become unstable due to the overhang
and buffeting on the underside and the suction on the upper side as wind
blows over it."

Looking at other houses on the street, it looks as though originally they
weren't rendered and the rendering has brought the wall nearly out to the
edge of the tiles.
Although even those not rendered don't have a great overhang.

So is this something that is feasible to fix?
Slightly wider slates/tiles to give a bit of overhang?
To really keep water off the end wall it might take a piece of wood
supporting an overhanging row of tiles.
Most houses have quite an overhang - presumably for a reason.

Cheers

Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

David WE Roberts used his keyboard to write :
Helping my daughter spruce up her house before she rents it out.
One issue is some water ingress on the gable end.
Builder pointed out that there was virtually no overhang of the tiles on the
gable end.

From http://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm

"Verge tiles should overhang the building fabric by between 38 and 50mm. Less
than 38mm and watermarks will show down the face of the wall. Greater than
50mm and end tiles in each row will become unstable due to the overhang and
buffeting on the underside and the suction on the upper side as wind blows
over it."

Looking at other houses on the street, it looks as though originally they
weren't rendered and the rendering has brought the wall nearly out to the
edge of the tiles.
Although even those not rendered don't have a great overhang.

So is this something that is feasible to fix?
Slightly wider slates/tiles to give a bit of overhang?
To really keep water off the end wall it might take a piece of wood
supporting an overhanging row of tiles.
Most houses have quite an overhang - presumably for a reason.

Not an expert, but I've seen roofs where the edging has been finished
off with angled tiles which wrap around the edges like a capping. Might
that be a potential solution?

--
Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

On Nov 22, 7:20*pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
Helping my daughter spruce up her house before she rents it out.
One issue is some water ingress on the gable end.
Builder pointed out that there was virtually no overhang of the tiles on the
gable end.

Fromhttp://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm

"Verge tiles should overhang the building fabric by between 38 and 50mm.
Less than 38mm and watermarks will show down the face of the wall. Greater
than 50mm and end tiles in each row will become unstable due to the overhang
and buffeting on the underside and the suction on the upper side as wind
blows over it."

Looking at other houses on the street, it looks as though originally they
weren't rendered and the rendering has brought the wall nearly out to the
edge of the tiles.
Although even those not rendered don't have a great overhang.

So is this something that is feasible to fix?
Slightly wider slates/tiles to give a bit of overhang?
To really keep water off the end wall it might take a piece of wood
supporting an overhanging row of tiles.
Most houses have quite an overhang - presumably for a reason.

Cheers

Dave R
--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

Depends which type of tile is on the roof. If they are plain tiles
"Rosemary type" or slate, its quite easy to extend the tiles over the
verge, but if they are interlocking concrete tiles could be difficult
as to add on a 30mm-50mm piece you would have difficulty holding it in
place.

On Nov 22, 7:20*pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
Helping my daughter spruce up her house before she rents it out.
One issue is some water ingress on the gable end.
Builder pointed out that there was virtually no overhang of the tiles on the
gable end.

Fromhttp://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm

"Verge tiles should overhang the building fabric by between 38 and 50mm.
Less than 38mm and watermarks will show down the face of the wall. Greater
than 50mm and end tiles in each row will become unstable due to the overhang
and buffeting on the underside and the suction on the upper side as wind
blows over it."

Looking at other houses on the street, it looks as though originally they
weren't rendered and the rendering has brought the wall nearly out to the
edge of the tiles.
Although even those not rendered don't have a great overhang.

So is this something that is feasible to fix?
Slightly wider slates/tiles to give a bit of overhang?
To really keep water off the end wall it might take a piece of wood
supporting an overhanging row of tiles.
Most houses have quite an overhang - presumably for a reason.

Cheers

Dave R

Lead is an obvious option. Is angling the top of the rendering so it
sheds water workable? I'm guessing not.


NT

"NT" wrote in message
...
On Nov 22, 7:20 pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
Helping my daughter spruce up her house before she rents it out.
One issue is some water ingress on the gable end.
Builder pointed out that there was virtually no overhang of the tiles on
the
gable end.

Fromhttp://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm

"Verge tiles should overhang the building fabric by between 38 and 50mm.
Less than 38mm and watermarks will show down the face of the wall. Greater
than 50mm and end tiles in each row will become unstable due to the
overhang
and buffeting on the underside and the suction on the upper side as wind
blows over it."

Looking at other houses on the street, it looks as though originally they
weren't rendered and the rendering has brought the wall nearly out to the
edge of the tiles.
Although even those not rendered don't have a great overhang.

So is this something that is feasible to fix?
Slightly wider slates/tiles to give a bit of overhang?
To really keep water off the end wall it might take a piece of wood
supporting an overhanging row of tiles.
Most houses have quite an overhang - presumably for a reason.

Cheers

Dave R

*Lead is an obvious option. Is angling the top of the rendering so it
*sheds water workable? I'm guessing not.

The aim is to keep the water away from the render.
I have found stuff when Googling for "plastic verge caps" after seeing a
plastic cover for a verge.
Haven't found what I think I saw, but there are various systems for getting
dry verge ends.

Options I have found so far seem to be either fitting a verge end system
under the last row of tiles so the plastic covers the top of the render, or
fitting a fascia board and extending the tiles over the fascia board to get
the edge away from the render.

One issue is that the gable end is part of a semi. and the apex is on the
party wall, so fixing one half must not adversely affect the other side.

Now trying to find a roofer who knows about such things.

However lead under the last row of slates would seem to do much the same
as the plastic verge under the last row of tiles.
Thanks for the suggestion.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Nov 23, 7:21*pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
"NT" wrote in message

...
On Nov 22, 7:20 pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:





Helping my daughter spruce up her house before she rents it out.
One issue is some water ingress on the gable end.
Builder pointed out that there was virtually no overhang of the tiles on
the
gable end.

Fromhttp://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm

"Verge tiles should overhang the building fabric by between 38 and 50mm..
Less than 38mm and watermarks will show down the face of the wall. Greater
than 50mm and end tiles in each row will become unstable due to the
overhang
and buffeting on the underside and the suction on the upper side as wind
blows over it."

Looking at other houses on the street, it looks as though originally they
weren't rendered and the rendering has brought the wall nearly out to the
edge of the tiles.
Although even those not rendered don't have a great overhang.

So is this something that is feasible to fix?
Slightly wider slates/tiles to give a bit of overhang?
To really keep water off the end wall it might take a piece of wood
supporting an overhanging row of tiles.
Most houses have quite an overhang - presumably for a reason.

Cheers

Dave R

*Lead is an obvious option. Is angling the top of the rendering so it
*sheds water workable? I'm guessing not.

The aim is to keep the water away from the render.
I have found stuff when Googling for "plastic verge caps" after seeing a
plastic cover for a verge.
Haven't found what I think I saw, but there are various systems for getting
dry verge ends.

Options I have found so far seem to be either fitting a verge end system
under the last row of tiles so the plastic covers the top of the render, or
fitting a fascia board and extending the tiles over the fascia board to get
the edge away from the render.

One issue is that the gable end is part of a semi. and the apex is on the
party wall, so fixing one half must not adversely affect the other side.

Now trying to find a roofer who knows about such things.

However lead under the last *row of slates would seem to do *much the same
as the plastic verge under the last row of tiles.
Thanks for the suggestion.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

However lead under the last row of slates would seem to do much the
same
as the plastic verge under the last row of tiles.

Is the roof covered with "SLATES or TILES" Which ever they are you
have to take off to fix the dry verge or lead to Marley Hawkins do
make plain tile verge tiles but they are expensive

"Kipper at sea" wrote in message
...
On Nov 23, 7:21 pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
"NT" wrote in message

...
On Nov 22, 7:20 pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:





Helping my daughter spruce up her house before she rents it out.
One issue is some water ingress on the gable end.
Builder pointed out that there was virtually no overhang of the tiles on
the
gable end.

Fromhttp://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm

"Verge tiles should overhang the building fabric by between 38 and 50mm.
Less than 38mm and watermarks will show down the face of the wall.
Greater
than 50mm and end tiles in each row will become unstable due to the
overhang
and buffeting on the underside and the suction on the upper side as wind
blows over it."

Looking at other houses on the street, it looks as though originally
they
weren't rendered and the rendering has brought the wall nearly out to
the
edge of the tiles.
Although even those not rendered don't have a great overhang.

So is this something that is feasible to fix?
Slightly wider slates/tiles to give a bit of overhang?
To really keep water off the end wall it might take a piece of wood
supporting an overhanging row of tiles.
Most houses have quite an overhang - presumably for a reason.

Cheers

Dave R

*Lead is an obvious option. Is angling the top of the rendering so it
*sheds water workable? I'm guessing not.

The aim is to keep the water away from the render.
I have found stuff when Googling for "plastic verge caps" after seeing a
plastic cover for a verge.
Haven't found what I think I saw, but there are various systems for
getting
dry verge ends.

Options I have found so far seem to be either fitting a verge end system
under the last row of tiles so the plastic covers the top of the render,
or
fitting a fascia board and extending the tiles over the fascia board to
get
the edge away from the render.

One issue is that the gable end is part of a semi. and the apex is on the
party wall, so fixing one half must not adversely affect the other side.

Now trying to find a roofer who knows about such things.

However lead under the last row of slates would seem to do much the same
as the plastic verge under the last row of tiles.
Thanks for the suggestion.


However lead under the last row of slates would seem to do much the same
as the plastic verge under the last row of tiles.

*Is the roof covered with "SLATES or TILES" Which ever they are you
*have to take off to fix the dry verge or lead to Marley Hawkins do
*make plain tile verge tiles but they are expensive

I am being deliberately non-specific because the main roof (parallel to the
road) looks to be covered with concrete tiles but the rear part of the house
(at right angles to the road) looks to have slates from the little I can
see - from withing the curtilage you can't see the roof apart from the gable
end.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On 23/11/2011 23:32, David WE Roberts wrote:

"Kipper at sea" wrote in message
...
On Nov 23, 7:21 pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:
"NT" wrote in message

...
On Nov 22, 7:20 pm, "David WE Roberts" wrote:





Helping my daughter spruce up her house before she rents it out.
One issue is some water ingress on the gable end.
Builder pointed out that there was virtually no overhang of the
tiles on
the
gable end.

Fromhttp://www.roofconsult.co.uk/articles/tiling/tips13.htm

"Verge tiles should overhang the building fabric by between 38 and
50mm.
Less than 38mm and watermarks will show down the face of the wall.
Greater
than 50mm and end tiles in each row will become unstable due to the
overhang
and buffeting on the underside and the suction on the upper side as
wind
blows over it."

Looking at other houses on the street, it looks as though originally
they
weren't rendered and the rendering has brought the wall nearly out
to the
edge of the tiles.
Although even those not rendered don't have a great overhang.

So is this something that is feasible to fix?
Slightly wider slates/tiles to give a bit of overhang?
To really keep water off the end wall it might take a piece of wood
supporting an overhanging row of tiles.
Most houses have quite an overhang - presumably for a reason.

Cheers

Dave R

*Lead is an obvious option. Is angling the top of the rendering so it
*sheds water workable? I'm guessing not.

The aim is to keep the water away from the render.
I have found stuff when Googling for "plastic verge caps" after seeing a
plastic cover for a verge.
Haven't found what I think I saw, but there are various systems for
getting
dry verge ends.

Options I have found so far seem to be either fitting a verge end system
under the last row of tiles so the plastic covers the top of the
render, or
fitting a fascia board and extending the tiles over the fascia board
to get
the edge away from the render.

One issue is that the gable end is part of a semi. and the apex is on the
party wall, so fixing one half must not adversely affect the other side.

Now trying to find a roofer who knows about such things.

However lead under the last row of slates would seem to do much the same
as the plastic verge under the last row of tiles.
Thanks for the suggestion.


However lead under the last row of slates would seem to do much the same
as the plastic verge under the last row of tiles.

*Is the roof covered with "SLATES or TILES" Which ever they are you
*have to take off to fix the dry verge or lead to Marley Hawkins do
*make plain tile verge tiles but they are expensive

I am being deliberately non-specific because the main roof (parallel to
the road) looks to be covered with concrete tiles but the rear part of
the house (at right angles to the road) looks to have slates from the
little I can see - from withing the curtilage you can't see the roof
apart from the gable end.

Our gable end wall faces south west, so the rain blows against it rather
than coming off the slates. IME if the render is at all porous, there
will be damp, regardless of the tile overhang.

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...
On 23/11/2011 23:32, David WE Roberts wrote:

snip
Our gable end wall faces south west, so the rain blows against it rather
than coming off the slates. IME if the render is at all porous, there will
be damp, regardless of the tile overhang.

We expect to find that there is more than one cause.
Just trying to fix the obvious ones first.
The visible damp suggests top and corner of the rear wall.
Also looking at the guttering to make sure it goes out far enough beyond the
gable end.

--
No plan survives contact with the enemy.
[Not even bunny]

Helmuth von Moltke the Elder

(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Thu, 24 Nov 2011 09:15:58 +0000, stuart noble wrote:

Our gable end wall faces south west, so the rain blows against it rather
than coming off the slates.

We have gables facing all directions as far as wind blown rain is
concerned. There are no over hangs, the wind would simply use it as
lever to get under the slates and have them off(*). The edge of the
slates is simply pointed to the top of the wall or render. We don't
get damp inside but then to get inside it would have to traverse 12
to 18" of stone wall.

IME if the render is at all porous, there will be damp, regardless of
the tile overhang.

Agreed. Trouble with damp inside is working out where it is getting
in. It can travel quite along way down and across by capillary
action. A clue as to how far it has come is how quickly it appears
and disappears after rain. If it come and goes quickly then the
chances are it's not travelling very far but if it's very slow hours
to days and doesn't really dry then the whole wall is wet and working
out where it's getting in can be tricky. Flashings around chimneys or
even down flues and through the stack itself are common sources.

(*) Was a bit windy late yesterday afternoon. Real Gale Force 8,
40mph sustained, gusting to low 50's and that was at about 10' not
up at roof level...

--
Cheers
Dave.

On 25/11/2011 08:25, Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Thu, 24 Nov 2011 09:15:58 +0000, stuart noble wrote:

Our gable end wall faces south west, so the rain blows against it rather
than coming off the slates.

We have gables facing all directions as far as wind blown rain is
concerned. There are no over hangs, the wind would simply use it as
lever to get under the slates and have them off(*). The edge of the
slates is simply pointed to the top of the wall or render. We don't
get damp inside but then to get inside it would have to traverse 12
to 18" of stone wall.

IME if the render is at all porous, there will be damp, regardless of
the tile overhang.

Agreed. Trouble with damp inside is working out where it is getting
in. It can travel quite along way down and across by capillary
action. A clue as to how far it has come is how quickly it appears
and disappears after rain. If it come and goes quickly then the
chances are it's not travelling very far but if it's very slow hours
to days and doesn't really dry then the whole wall is wet and working
out where it's getting in can be tricky. Flashings around chimneys or
even down flues and through the stack itself are common sources.

(*) Was a bit windy late yesterday afternoon. Real Gale Force 8,
40mph sustained, gusting to low 50's and that was at about 10' not
up at roof level...

The house opposite, of a similar age to ours, has a big tile overhang
with soffit and fascia board. Looks good but, when you see the rain
hitting the wall horizontally, you realise it has no practical value.

In article ,
stuart noble wrote:


The house opposite, of a similar age to ours, has a big tile overhang
with soffit and fascia board. Looks good but, when you see the rain
hitting the wall horizontally, you realise it has no practical value.

It also makes it impossible to clean the gutters from a ladder leaning on
the walll ;-(

--
From KT24

Using a RISC OS computer running v5.16

On 25/11/2011 08:50, charles wrote:
In ,
stuart wrote:


The house opposite, of a similar age to ours, has a big tile overhang
with soffit and fascia board. Looks good but, when you see the rain
hitting the wall horizontally, you realise it has no practical value.

It also makes it impossible to clean the gutters from a ladder leaning on
the walll ;-(


This is only on the gable, so no gutters. Front and back have the short
tile overhang with standard guttering