What is the best way to cut 110mm PVC pipe?

I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

But, what about when the pipe is in place, i. e. installed?

Is an angle grinder the normal tool?

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?

asalcedo wrote:


What is the best way to cut 110mm PVC pipe?

I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

But, what about when the pipe is in place, i. e. installed?

Is an angle grinder the normal tool?

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?





A Fein or similar. If you cannot get all the way around, make 2 vertical
cuts and remove a section of waste so that you can Fein cut the remainder
from the inside surface. I've done that in a tight corner and it worked
well.

If you don't happen to have a Fein (etc), I suspect it could be done with a
circular saw cutting bit on a dremel-like device - watch your fingers, face
and other body parts though - I got a minor injury from one of those that
jumped back (which the tiny circular saws are prone to do). Not much, but it
undercut a flap of skin on my thumb about 5mm and hurt like **** for days.

--
Tim Watts

asalcedo wrote:
What is the best way to cut 110mm PVC pipe?

I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

But, what about when the pipe is in place, i. e. installed?

Is an angle grinder the normal tool?

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?

A normal hand saw.

--
Adam

ARWadsworth wrote:

asalcedo wrote:
What is the best way to cut 110mm PVC pipe?

I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

But, what about when the pipe is in place, i. e. installed?

Is an angle grinder the normal tool?

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?


[1]

A normal hand saw.


But now he has no excuse to buy a tool :-0




[1] And on this point which I missed - certainly clean up the inside and
outside edges or bits of swarf will get trapped in the seal. Coarse file if
posible or sandpaper.

A bevel is nice if using pushfit, but if it's hard to do, use lots of
lubricant (silicone oil spray or washing up liquid) and it should be fine.
After it's on, it no longer matters, but a bit of a bevel does help
assembly.

For solvent weld, it is not relevant, but cleaning the swarf and rough bits
off is still a good idea.

--
Tim Watts

On Tue, 18 Oct 2011 21:25:28 +0100, ARWadsworth wrote:

asalcedo wrote:
What is the best way to cut 110mm PVC pipe?

I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

But, what about when the pipe is in place, i. e. installed?

Is an angle grinder the normal tool?

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?

A normal hand saw.

If its in a trench then a flexible saw e.g ebay 390032747564
--
(º€¢.¸(¨*€¢.¸ ¸.€¢*¨)¸.€¢Âº)
.€¢Â°€¢. Nik .€¢Â°€¢.
(¸.€¢Âº(¸.€¢Â¨* *¨€¢.¸)º€¢.¸)

On 18/10/2011 21:20, Tim Streater wrote:
In article ,
asalcedo wrote:

What is the best way to cut 110mm PVC pipe?

I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

But, what about when the pipe is in place, i. e. installed?

Is an angle grinder the normal tool?

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?

I use a junior hacksaw when cutting downpipe to install a rainwater
interceptor.


I think a junior hacksaw would struggle on a 110mm diameter pipe, unless
you can get all the way round and do it in short sections. A handsaw is
a better bet, having first wrapped some Gaffa tape round on the cut line
to act as a guide and help keep things square.

As others have said, a bevel is highly desirable if using push-fit
fittings. Lubricate with washing-up liquid to make assembly easier.
--
Cheers,
Roger
____________
Please reply to Newsgroup. Whilst email address is valid, it is seldom
checked.

On 18/10/2011 19:18, asalcedo wrote:

What is the best way to cut 110mm PVC pipe?

With a saw...

(fine tooth jack saw will do, hacksaw is a bit more civilised)

I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

What sort of mitre saw did you have in mind? I would be very cautions
using a circular style one on pipe!

But, what about when the pipe is in place, i. e. installed?

Jack saw, metal blade in a reciprocating/sabre saw, or hacksaw

Is an angle grinder the normal tool?

Not for PVC

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?

It helps with some push fit fittings, but is not always essential.
Running a sharp knife round the edge or coarse sandpaper to de-burr the
edge is a very good idea though.


--
Cheers,

John.

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On Oct 18, 7:18*pm, asalcedo wrote:
What is the best way to cut 110mm PVC pipe?

I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

But, what about when the pipe is in place, i. e. installed?

Is an angle grinder the normal tool?

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?

--
asalcedo

Fine tooth hand saw.

If power is available, a compact belt sander puts a good bevel on
quickly. It's vital to remove any inside snags) Makes it a lot easier
to get the fitting started. Use plenty of washing up liquid & water.
A sharp Stanley knife works in warmish condtions. But more of a
struggle.

"ARWadsworth" wrote in message
...
asalcedo wrote:
What is the best way to cut 110mm PVC pipe?

I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

But, what about when the pipe is in place, i. e. installed?

Is an angle grinder the normal tool?

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?

A normal hand saw.

And me

Mike

I've used the mitre saw in the past very successfully. The cut is clean and square. And quick.

When the mitre saw is not an option I will use a fine tooth jack saw as suggested.

I've read that the bevel is important when using glue (solvent cement, as is my case), especially in these larger diameters. The bevel makes it less likely that a tight fit might remove the glue in some parts.

In article ,
asalcedo wrote:
I've read that the bevel is important when using glue (solvent cement,
as is my case), especially in these larger diameters. The bevel makes it
less likely that a tight fight might remove the glue in some parts.

The glue is a solvent - and assuming things are clean, nothing will remove
it. ;-)

--
*What happens when none of your bees wax? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

What sort of mitre saw did you have in mind? I would be very cautions
using a circular style one on pipe!

I use my compound mitre one often for cutting PVC pipe. Works beautifully.
I do have a fine toothed blade in it, though.

--
*Change is inevitable ... except from vending machines *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 18 Oct 2011 23:33:25 -0700, harry wrote:

If power is available, a compact belt sander puts a good bevel on
quickly.

or sanding drum on an electric drill


--
John Stumbles

Press any key to continue or any other key to exit

On 19/10/2011 10:09, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In articlew6SdnQu5xKQ9ZQDTnZ2dnUVZ8sudnZ2d@brightvie w.co.uk,
John wrote:
I can use a mitre saw when the pipe is free, i.e. not installed.

What sort of mitre saw did you have in mind? I would be very cautions
using a circular style one on pipe!

I use my compound mitre one often for cutting PVC pipe. Works beautifully.
I do have a fine toothed blade in it, though.

Its usually ok if well supported - but even then its possible to snag on
a hollow pipe and snatch it quite violently. The old manual mitre saws
would be fine.


--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
John Rumm wrote:
I use my compound mitre one often for cutting PVC pipe. Works
beautifully. I do have a fine toothed blade in it, though.

Its usually ok if well supported - but even then its possible to snag on
a hollow pipe and snatch it quite violently. The old manual mitre saws
would be fine.

I always support and clamp well anything being cut on that saw. I have a
great deal of respect for it. ;-)

--
*Procrastinate now

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Tue, 18 Oct 2011 18:18:35 +0000, asalcedo
wrote:

Is it important to bevel the edges of the cut?

It's a pain in the arse if you don't, with some pushfits.
Just a quick lick around the end with an angle grinder does the job.

"John Stumbles" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 18 Oct 2011 23:33:25 -0700, harry wrote:

If power is available, a compact belt sander puts a good bevel on
quickly.

or sanding drum on an electric drill



Just use a jack saw ... no need to chamfer anymore, they push in with square
ends

Isn't cutting wire (is that what it's called?) available any more.
The stuff prisoners are supposed to use to cut through
prison bars.

JGH

On 31/10/2011 17:16, jgharston wrote:
Isn't cutting wire (is that what it's called?) available any more.
The stuff prisoners are supposed to use to cut through
prison bars.

You mean like:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WIRE-SAW-B...em5 188207969



--
Cheers,

John.

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| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
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| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
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