I'm building a pair of wooden driveway gates. The frame will be 4"x2" and
the front face will be 6" wide shiplap.

I'd like the gate to be lockable from either side, without paying an arm
and a leg. Does anyone know of a latch of some kind that allows this? Or
perhaps there is some simple trick whereby a standard hasp and staple (or
something) can be accessed from either side?

TIA..

JakeD

JakeD wrote in
:

I'm building a pair of wooden driveway gates. The frame will be 4"x2"
and the front face will be 6" wide shiplap.

I'd like the gate to be lockable from either side, without paying an
arm and a leg. Does anyone know of a latch of some kind that allows
this? Or perhaps there is some simple trick whereby a standard hasp
and staple (or something) can be accessed from either side?

TIA..

JakeD


PS.. The gate will be 6ft tall, so reaching over the top is not a viable
solution. Whatever I do needs to be fairly easy to accomplish, so that my
vistors can lock or unlock the gate from either side without straining,
cussing, or getting splinters!

JakeD

On 03/10/2011 17:32, JakeD wrote:
I'm building a pair of wooden driveway gates. The frame will be 4"x2" and
the front face will be 6" wide shiplap.

I'd like the gate to be lockable from either side, without paying an arm
and a leg. Does anyone know of a latch of some kind that allows this? Or
perhaps there is some simple trick whereby a standard hasp and staple (or
something) can be accessed from either side?

TIA..

JakeD
Can you add wood to around the vertical centre of the gate so that you
can fit a mortice deadlock? (5 lever) Depending on the resulting
thickness you may have to make the shaft of the key longer. I did thid
to the side gate to my house (home made ledeged and braced design) about
12 years ago and the lock still works without needing lubrication.

Malcolm

On Oct 3, 5:32*pm, JakeD wrote:
I'm building a pair of wooden driveway gates. The frame will be 4"x2" and
the front face will be 6" wide shiplap.

I'd like the gate to be lockable from either side, without paying an arm
and a leg. Does anyone know of a latch of some kind that allows this? Or
perhaps there is some simple trick whereby a standard hasp and staple (or
something) can be accessed from either side?

TIA..

JakeD

Second one down works from both sides.

http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/P...es_and_Latches

Malcolm wrote in
:


Can you add wood to around the vertical centre of the gate so that you
can fit a mortice deadlock? (5 lever) Depending on the resulting
thickness you may have to make the shaft of the key longer. I did
thid to the side gate to my house (home made ledeged and braced
design) about 12 years ago and the lock still works without needing
lubrication.

Malcolm


Thanks, yes, that might be a way, although outdoor wooden gates are rather
prone to warpage and shrinkage etc., so I can envisage problems getting the
mortice lock to engage easily after a while... I'd like some thing that
can't easily be jemmied open too...

JakeD

harry wrote in
:

Second one down works from both sides.

http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/P.../Gate_Catches_
and_Latches


Thanks, but I meant 'lockable' literally, i.e., unopenable without a key.

JakeD

harry wrote in
:

On Oct 3, 5:32*pm, JakeD wrote:
I'm building a pair of wooden driveway gates. The frame will be 4"x2"
and the front face will be 6" wide shiplap.

I'd like the gate to be lockable from either side, without paying an
arm and a leg. Does anyone know of a latch of some kind that allows
this? Or perhaps there is some simple trick whereby a standard hasp
and staple (or something) can be accessed from either side?

TIA..

JakeD

Second one down works from both sides.

http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/P.../Gate_Catches_
and_Latches


Thanks, but I meant "lockable" literally (with a key). the 26th item down
on the same page (Lokk Latch Deluxe Lockable Latch)
might work, but it's very expensive, and might be difficult to find
replacent barrel when time comes to change it.

JakeD

JakeD wrote in
:

harry wrote in
:

On Oct 3, 5:32*pm, JakeD wrote:
I'm building a pair of wooden driveway gates. The frame will be
4"x2" and the front face will be 6" wide shiplap.

I'd like the gate to be lockable from either side, without paying an
arm and a leg. Does anyone know of a latch of some kind that allows
this? Or perhaps there is some simple trick whereby a standard hasp
and staple (or something) can be accessed from either side?

TIA..

JakeD

Second one down works from both sides.

http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/P...e/Gate_Catches
_ and_Latches


Thanks, but I meant "lockable" literally (with a key). the 26th item
down on the same page (Lokk Latch Deluxe Lockable Latch)
might work, but it's very expensive, and might be difficult to find
replacent barrel when time comes to change it.

JakeD


PS.. Here is a simple idea that I just invented:
http://tinyurl.com/5s2w2q8

However, I'm still interested in other ideas, if anyon can improve on it.

JakeD

On 3 Oct, 19:03, JakeD wrote:
JakeD wrote :









harry wrote in
:

On Oct 3, 5:32*pm, JakeD wrote:
I'm building a pair of wooden driveway gates. The frame will be
4"x2" and the front face will be 6" wide shiplap.

I'd like the gate to be lockable from either side, without paying an
arm and a leg. Does anyone know of a latch of some kind that allows
this? Or perhaps there is some simple trick whereby a standard hasp
and staple (or something) can be accessed from either side?

TIA..

JakeD

Second one down works from both sides.

http://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/P...e/Gate_Catches
_ and_Latches

Thanks, but I meant "lockable" literally (with a key). the 26th item
down on the same page (Lokk Latch Deluxe Lockable Latch)
might work, but it's very expensive, and might be difficult to find
replacent barrel when time comes to change it.

JakeD

PS.. Here is a simple idea that I just invented:http://tinyurl.com/5s2w2q8

However, I'm still interested in other ideas, if anyon can improve on it.

JakeD

Could you not just fit a hasp and stapleto the back and lock it with a
pad lock. Access via cut out on the door to allow ones hand to go
through and unlock the padlock

Paul Mc Cann

On 3 Oct 2011 16:55:31 GMT, JakeD wrote:

Malcolm wrote in
:


Can you add wood to around the vertical centre of the gate so that you
can fit a mortice deadlock? (5 lever) Depending on the resulting
thickness you may have to make the shaft of the key longer. I did
thid to the side gate to my house (home made ledeged and braced
design) about 12 years ago and the lock still works without needing
lubrication.

Malcolm


Thanks, yes, that might be a way, although outdoor wooden gates are rather
prone to warpage and shrinkage etc., so I can envisage problems getting the
mortice lock to engage easily after a while... I'd like some thing that
can't easily be jemmied open too...

To be honest, from a jemmying point of view, I'd have thought that the
weak link would have been the gate itself, not the the lock that
closes it.

Nick

PS.. Here is a simple idea that I just invented:
http://tinyurl.com/5s2w2q8

However, I'm still interested in other ideas, if anyon can improve on it.

JakeD

You could also set up an ordinary mortise lock in one of the uprights,
going vertically so that it locks a horizontal bolt in the closed
position. That way, you could have it secured with the option as to
whether it was locked or not. In fact it wouldn't even have to be a
mortise lock, you could have a surface mount lock on the inside.

You could have a "window" a bit like your arrangement so that you could
operate the bolt from outside, or you could have a completely concealed
bolt operated by pegs going through slots.

On 3 Oct 2011 18:03:52 GMT, JakeD wrote:

PS.. Here is a simple idea that I just invented:
http://tinyurl.com/5s2w2q8

However, I'm still interested in other ideas, if anyon can improve on it.

Weld the eyes shut and weld the locknuts to the threads.
Theiving attempted ******* scrotes of a few weeks back easily bent
open a similar eye, which wouldn't have happened if I'd welded it.

Newshound wrote in news:9f0cslFda6U1
@mid.individual.net:

You could also set up an ordinary mortise lock in one of the uprights,
going vertically so that it locks a horizontal bolt in the closed
position. That way, you could have it secured with the option as to
whether it was locked or not. In fact it wouldn't even have to be a
mortise lock, you could have a surface mount lock on the inside.

You could have a "window" a bit like your arrangement so that you could
operate the bolt from outside, or you could have a completely concealed
bolt operated by pegs going through slots.


Hey, that's an interesting idea - thank you for that suggestion. I never
thought of using a mortice lock in that way, but yes, it makes a lot of
sense...

JakeD

Grimly Curmudgeon wrote in
:

On 3 Oct 2011 18:03:52 GMT, JakeD wrote:

PS.. Here is a simple idea that I just invented:
http://tinyurl.com/5s2w2q8

However, I'm still interested in other ideas, if anyon can improve on it.

Weld the eyes shut and weld the locknuts to the threads.
Theiving attempted ******* scrotes of a few weeks back easily bent
open a similar eye, which wouldn't have happened if I'd welded it.


Thanks for the suggestion. I had assumed that my 8mm eyebolts would be
pretty-much pry-proof, but perhaps not. Yes, the nuts def need welding or
brazing. Wish I had some welding/brazing gear!

JakeD

On 04/10/2011 18:08, JakeD wrote:
Grimly wrote in
:

On 3 Oct 2011 18:03:52 GMT, wrote:

PS.. Here is a simple idea that I just invented:
http://tinyurl.com/5s2w2q8

However, I'm still interested in other ideas, if anyon can improve on it.

Weld the eyes shut and weld the locknuts to the threads.
Theiving attempted ******* scrotes of a few weeks back easily bent
open a similar eye, which wouldn't have happened if I'd welded it.


Thanks for the suggestion. I had assumed that my 8mm eyebolts would be
pretty-much pry-proof, but perhaps not. Yes, the nuts def need welding or
brazing. Wish I had some welding/brazing gear!

JakeD

You would be able to braze the eyes of 8 mm using a standard plumbing
gas torch as long as you sit it in a "corner" made by three bits of
something insulating. At a pinch ordinary house brick will work. You
will need a suitable flux (e.g. EasyFlo)

You would be able to braze the eyes of 8 mm using a standard plumbing
gas torch as long as you sit it in a "corner" made by three bits of
something insulating. At a pinch ordinary house brick will work. You
will need a suitable flux (e.g. EasyFlo)

Should have added, you can make the nuts inaccessible by putting them in
a counterbore. Tighten the first nut against the wood while holding the
eye, tighten the second nut while holding the eye, then fill the
counterbore with car body filler.

Newshound wrote in news:9f1501FtimU1
@mid.individual.net:

Should have added, you can make the nuts inaccessible by putting them in
a counterbore. Tighten the first nut against the wood while holding the
eye, tighten the second nut while holding the eye, then fill the
counterbore with car body filler.

Great idea - thanks.

Jake

Newshound wrote in
:


You would be able to braze the eyes of 8 mm using a standard plumbing
gas torch as long as you sit it in a "corner" made by three bits of
something insulating. At a pinch ordinary house brick will work. You
will need a suitable flux (e.g. EasyFlo)

Thanks for the tip. Would plumber's soldering flux work for brazing?
And come to think of it, would solder do the job? Brazing is stronger
though, for sure...

Jake