I posted this a few weeks ago, but didn't get much inspiration,
so here it is again.

My boiler is in the integral garage, and the condensate drain was
taken through the wall, vertically down for a short distance to
join with an existing 32 mm pipe, the drain from a sink. This
then runs at a shallow angle for about 3 metres, where it joins
into the rainwater downpipe, eventually discharging into a
soakaway. (I didn't fit the sink, I know it is not really
correct.)

As I had freezing problems, last year I lagged the external
pipework with 25 mm thickness Armaflex. The extreme weather last
winter still caused me some problems, at the junction with the
downpipe. Luckily, I was able to thaw it relatively easily, and
then kept the pipe clear by periodically running water from the
sink to prevent any ice accumulation.

There are no possible alternative drainage points.

Since, by its nature, the downpipe will be open to air, I don't
see much point in trying to get sheet insulation around the
junction point.

(1) I could consider routing the solvent-weld drain internally
through the garage, to reduce the exposure, but it would be a
fiddly run, and the junction point issue still arises.

(2) In addition to (1), I could, adapting a recent suggestion in
a different context, use a swept-tee in place of a 90 degree
bend, and insert a solvent weld screw-cap end in the "unused" leg
of the tee, just before it passes through the wall. When it
freezes, I could remove the cap and allow it to drain into a
bucket. This is fine so long as it doesn't have to be left
unattended.

(3) I could use trace heating, either with the installation as it
is, or having modified as (1) above. I guess this still requires
me to lag the heated area, with hand-crafted chunks of expensive
Armaflex.

Any thoughts and experiences on the best way to proceed, to get
the best result for least work and expense?

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

Chris J Dixon wrote:
I posted this a few weeks ago, but didn't get much inspiration,
so here it is again.

My boiler is in the integral garage, and the condensate drain was
taken through the wall, vertically down for a short distance to
join with an existing 32 mm pipe, the drain from a sink. This
then runs at a shallow angle for about 3 metres, where it joins
into the rainwater downpipe, eventually discharging into a
soakaway. (I didn't fit the sink, I know it is not really
correct.)

As I had freezing problems, last year I lagged the external
pipework with 25 mm thickness Armaflex. The extreme weather last
winter still caused me some problems, at the junction with the
downpipe. Luckily, I was able to thaw it relatively easily, and
then kept the pipe clear by periodically running water from the
sink to prevent any ice accumulation.

There are no possible alternative drainage points.

Since, by its nature, the downpipe will be open to air, I don't
see much point in trying to get sheet insulation around the
junction point.

(1) I could consider routing the solvent-weld drain internally
through the garage, to reduce the exposure, but it would be a
fiddly run, and the junction point issue still arises.

(2) In addition to (1), I could, adapting a recent suggestion in
a different context, use a swept-tee in place of a 90 degree
bend, and insert a solvent weld screw-cap end in the "unused" leg
of the tee, just before it passes through the wall. When it
freezes, I could remove the cap and allow it to drain into a
bucket. This is fine so long as it doesn't have to be left
unattended.

(3) I could use trace heating, either with the installation as it
is, or having modified as (1) above. I guess this still requires
me to lag the heated area, with hand-crafted chunks of expensive
Armaflex.

Any thoughts and experiences on the best way to proceed, to get
the best result for least work and expense?

Chris
As you have found, insulation will not stop things freezing - it will
just take longer or if there is other heat input such as more hot
condensate or heating tape it might just help.
Given that we only get really cold winters from time to time, why not
just use the bucket method? This could still in theory freeze up if the
drip rate is too low but at least you would see the formation of the icicle.
Sensible precautions and observation during cold weather sould be all
you need.
When you replace the boiler next, get a condensate drain properly
routed though the house into the foul drain and don't accept anything
less than a proper job.

Bob

Bob Minchin wrote:

When you replace the boiler next, get a condensate drain properly
routed though the house into the foul drain and don't accept anything
less than a proper job.

That just isn't feasible, I can't see that there is a route
available.

The soil stack is internal, in the external corner of the
kitchen, which has a solid floor, was recently refitted, and I
hope will see me out.

Any route from boiler to soil pipe would also cross the back
door.

If I were to consider for a moment pumping upwards, the bathroom
is above the kitchen, another expensive job I hope never to have
to disturb. Joists run across the route, which is covered by the
rather large bath, as does the kitchen extractor duct, completely
blocking the route.

Chris
--
Chris J Dixon Nottingham UK


Have dancing shoes, will ceilidh.

In article ,
Chris J Dixon writes:
I posted this a few weeks ago, but didn't get much inspiration,
so here it is again.

My boiler is in the integral garage, and the condensate drain was
taken through the wall, vertically down for a short distance to
join with an existing 32 mm pipe, the drain from a sink. This
then runs at a shallow angle for about 3 metres, where it joins
into the rainwater downpipe, eventually discharging into a
soakaway. (I didn't fit the sink, I know it is not really
correct.)

As I had freezing problems, last year I lagged the external
pipework with 25 mm thickness Armaflex. The extreme weather last
winter still caused me some problems, at the junction with the
downpipe. Luckily, I was able to thaw it relatively easily, and
then kept the pipe clear by periodically running water from the
sink to prevent any ice accumulation.

Some years ago (before condensing boilers were popular), I plumbed
in a dehumidifier, and also had to route the condensate pipe outside.
I made up a length of insulated resistance wire, and ran it inside
the condensate pipe, poking out the end. It ran from 18V AC, and
was switched on by an outside froststat. Worked well for a number
of years.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]