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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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I need to place an anti weed ground sheet on a gravel path. Weeds are
growing through. Would I need to remove the existing gravel before putting the sheet down or could I put a sheet over the existing gravel and then put gravel on top of that? |
#2
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Gareth wrote:
I need to place an anti weed ground sheet on a gravel path. Weeds are growing through. antiweed ground sheets don't stop weeds Spray them off. |
#3
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Roger Mills wrote:
On 10/06/2011 18:52, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Gareth wrote: I need to place an anti weed ground sheet on a gravel path. Weeds are growing through. antiweed ground sheets don't stop weeds Spray them off. They don't *stop* them, but they *do* slow them down and stop them from making tap roots, so they are easy to remove. Gravel alone does that. The matting really needs to be on soil *under* the gravel so, for best results, you need to lift and relay the gravel. If possible, wash it while it's up. easiest to spray path clear on and in three weeks hose it down and if necessary, add more gravel. |
#4
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In article ,
The Natural Philosopher wrote: Roger Mills wrote: On 10/06/2011 18:52, The Natural Philosopher wrote: antiweed ground sheets don't stop weeds Spray them off. They don't *stop* them, but they *do* slow them down and stop them from making tap roots, so they are easy to remove. Gravel alone does that. Gravel does not prevent weeds from making tap roots, and does not prevent invasion by creeping roots. I won't use poisons near the house, so am waiting until I can afford to strip and re-lay the gravel beds. In the meantime it's a never ending battle with (in my case) deep rooted thistles which have got a hold. Nick -- Serendipity: http://www.leverton.org/blosxom (last update 29th March 2010) "The Internet, a sort of ersatz counterfeit of real life" -- Janet Street-Porter, BBC2, 19th March 1996 |
#5
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On Fri, 10 Jun 2011 20:49:04 +0000 (UTC), Nick Leverton wrote:
In the meantime it's a never ending battle with (in my case) deep rooted thistles which have got a hold. Pulling 'em will get 'em. We get a few thistles here I normally let them grow and flower but not set seed then push a fork in full deepth all round giving it a waggle then pull the thistle out. It helps if the ground is moist after a good bit of rain, under those conditions I've got 3' of tap root out before now. That is with a big thistle, say 3'+ high and 18"+ diameter. Even if you don't get all the root if you get the top foot or so they don't seem to come back. If it snaps off at or just below ground level it probably will. Very few thistles here now (I've not spotted one this year, yet) and much less ragwort just by simply pulling. I only really started on thistle control a couple of years ago, was concentrating on the ragwort before. -- Cheers Dave. |
#6
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In message , Nick Leverton
writes In article , The Natural Philosopher wrote: Roger Mills wrote: On 10/06/2011 18:52, The Natural Philosopher wrote: antiweed ground sheets don't stop weeds Spray them off. They don't *stop* them, but they *do* slow them down and stop them from making tap roots, so they are easy to remove. Gravel alone does that. Gravel does not prevent weeds from making tap roots, and does not prevent invasion by creeping roots. I won't use poisons near the house, so am waiting until I can afford to strip and re-lay the gravel beds. In the meantime it's a never ending battle with (in my case) deep rooted thistles which have got a hold. You could try a double layer of plastic mulch. As the NP says, weed roots will penetrate. I wonder if horticultural (professional supplies rather than garden centre outlets) would do a better job. regards -- Tim Lamb |
#7
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![]() "Dave Liquorice" wrote in message ll.co.uk... On Fri, 10 Jun 2011 20:49:04 +0000 (UTC), Nick Leverton wrote: In the meantime it's a never ending battle with (in my case) deep rooted thistles which have got a hold. Pulling 'em will get 'em. We get a few thistles here I normally let them grow and flower but not set seed then push a fork in full deepth all round giving it a waggle then pull the thistle out. It helps if the ground is moist after a good bit of rain, under those conditions I've got 3' of tap root out before now. That is with a big thistle, say 3'+ high and 18"+ diameter. Even if you don't get all the root if you get the top foot or so they don't seem to come back. If it snaps off at or just below ground level it probably will. Very few thistles here now (I've not spotted one this year, yet) and much less ragwort just by simply pulling. I only really started on thistle control a couple of years ago, was concentrating on the ragwort before. -- Cheers Dave. A good dose of Roundup or similar Glyphoste product twice or three times a year will do it. I use a version called 'Clinic Ace' from my local agricultural supplier. We have an area of gravel approaching an acre to keep weed free and igt works for us. AWEM |
#8
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On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 10:38:51 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:
A good dose of Roundup or similar Glyphoste product twice or three times a year will do it. Don't like using chemicals and glyphosate will kill the surrounding plants as well. To much faff keeping it off them and going round a few times a year compared to a single round of pulling. Gravel just needs to be raked over every so often to keep clear of weeds. If you have gravel and want it to be weed free you have to put the labour in. If I had a large expanse of gravel think I'd get a wheeled, paraffin fired, burner. It'll do for anything growing and any seeds lying about as well, not to mention being fun. B-) -- Cheers Dave. |
#9
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Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 10:38:51 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote: A good dose of Roundup or similar Glyphoste product twice or three times a year will do it. Don't like using chemicals and glyphosate will kill the surrounding plants as well. Bull****. I spray my gravel edges where grass has crept in with Pathclear, and the surrounding grass is as good as ever. Use a driping watering can, not a bloody pressure washer! Glyphosate is even more specific. Kills by foliar absorption. It it doesn't touch the leaves, it won't kill the plant. Round here that's how they keep (public) footpaths across fields going. Spray a meter wide strip of crop just after germination. Its razor sharp edged. |
#10
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![]() "Dave Liquorice" wrote in message ll.co.uk... On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 10:38:51 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote: A good dose of Roundup or similar Glyphoste product twice or three times a year will do it. Don't like using chemicals and glyphosate will kill the surrounding plants as well. To much faff keeping it off them and going round a few times a year compared to a single round of pulling. Gravel just needs to be raked over every so often to keep clear of weeds. If you have gravel and want it to be weed free you have to put the labour in. If I had a large expanse of gravel think I'd get a wheeled, paraffin fired, burner. It'll do for anything growing and any seeds lying about as well, not to mention being fun. B-) -- Cheers Dave. Dave, I suspect that you not used either gyphyosate or a wheeled burner from your comments. Glyphosate: I concur with the comments from 'The Natural Philosopher' - please read them Weed Burner: Hideously dangerous - if you get things hot enough to do the job the gravel explodes and shatters all over the place. It also melts into the soles of your shoes. AMHIK!!!!! I've used both methods, and also individual pulling and from experience I know which method I will continue with. BTW have you ever tried raking an acre of gravel? Even wearing gloves you end up with blisters and by the time you've finished the weeds have regrown!!!! AWEM |
#11
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Huge wrote:
On 2011-06-10, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Roger Mills wrote: On 10/06/2011 18:52, The Natural Philosopher wrote: Gareth wrote: I need to place an anti weed ground sheet on a gravel path. Weeds are growing through. antiweed ground sheets don't stop weeds Spray them off. They don't *stop* them, but they *do* slow them down and stop them from making tap roots, so they are easy to remove. Gravel alone does that. Har, har, har. Yeah. Right. yeah, right. 4" of gravel over 4" of proper sub base is well drained, car proof and only wind blown seeds will start in it. If its 1" of gravel its merely a scattering of mulch and is useless for almost anything. |
#12
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On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 18:28:05 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote:
Dave, I suspect that you not used either gyphyosate ... I have but only on Ground Elder. I'd rather not use it at all. Weed Burner: Hideously dangerous - if you get things hot enough to do the job the gravel explodes and shatters all over the place. Sounds like *you* haven't used a burner properly. You don't need to incinerate the plants just waft the flame over them. The blast of heat ruptures the cell walls and they die back within a few days. Not noticed how the leaves on bushes too near but not within flame range of a decent bonfire all turn brown a few days later? BTW have you ever tried raking an acre of gravel? Even wearing gloves you end up with blisters and by the time you've finished the weeds have regrown!!!! "I've told you a million times not to exaggerate!" -- Cheers Dave. |
#13
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Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sat, 11 Jun 2011 18:28:05 +0100, Andrew Mawson wrote: Dave, I suspect that you not used either gyphyosate ... I have but only on Ground Elder. I'd rather not use it at all. Weed Burner: Hideously dangerous - if you get things hot enough to do the job the gravel explodes and shatters all over the place. Sounds like *you* haven't used a burner properly. You don't need to incinerate the plants just waft the flame over them. The blast of heat ruptures the cell walls and they die back within a few days. Not noticed how the leaves on bushes too near but not within flame range of a decent bonfire all turn brown a few days later? point of a weed burner is to sterilise the soil of buried seeds as well. |
#14
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"Gareth" wrote in message ...
I need to place an anti weed ground sheet on a gravel path. Weeds are growing through. Would I need to remove the existing gravel before putting the sheet down or could I put a sheet over the existing gravel and then put gravel on top of that? Thanks for the replies. I'm not keen on using weed killer - partly because the path is so close to where children play and so on. Also I don't want weed killer seeping in to a small garden where lettuce plants are grown. That said I fear that the weeds are so bad that I'm going to have to use some sort of chemical. It's not just the thistles which I guess I could get rid of with a bit of hard work but also weeds which grow close to the ground and which can't really be pulled up. I was very naive about gravel and just assumed that weeds would not be able to grow on gravel! I see that weeds even manage to grow on tarmac and occasionally even stone paths where there is even a small crack in the stone. Fwiw, this "feature" is even advertised - Patch Magic (grass seed) claims on the packet that it will even grow on concrete! -- * I promise I will format my posts properly in the future. * Windows Live Mail just can't quote! Luckily, I have found this: * http://www.dusko-lolic.from.hr/wlmquote/ |
#15
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In message , Gareth
wrote I was very naive about gravel and just assumed that weeds would not be able to grow on gravel! http://snowdropsgarden.co.uk/beth_00/beth03.htm http://www.greenspaceplanting.co.uk/...0Garden%20-%20 gravel%20garden%20L.jpg I see that weeds even manage to grow on tarmac and occasionally even stone paths where there is even a small crack in the stone. http://www.environetuk.com/japanese-...roperty-buildi ng-damage.aspx -- Alan news2009 {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk |
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