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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Anyone used one of these?
http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html
Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#2
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Anyone used one of these?
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) Hi Dave. It certainly looks simple enough to work, unlike some other Ideal-Home-Exhibition-type "shortcut" gimmicky devices. I loved the method of adjusting the nozzle - bend it with pliers! Bert PS: Haven't seen you over on the Other Place lately... |
#3
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Anyone used one of these?
The Medway Handyman wrote:
http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) Not a new idea, there must be some experience of them? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Durgun-Pro-M.../dp/B002EWCU1E http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pro-Point-Mo.../dp/B002QIBABW http://www.amazon.co.uk/Roughneck-32.../dp/B003CT4D22 www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001DZI3WI www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000T9UEYO |
#4
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Anyone used one of these?
On Jun 7, 9:26*pm, The Medway Handyman
wrote: http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) I think http://www.channel4.com/programmes/g...signs/episode- guide/series-5/episode-22 involves use of a similar tool. |
#5
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Anyone used one of these?
On Tue, 7 Jun 2011 23:26:58 +0100, Robin wrote:
Without it I was bloody useless at pointing. With it I am bloody useless at pointing but a lot faster and more confident of getting the muck fully to the back of the joint. Do you have brick jointer or similar? http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...+Jointer+13mm/ d10/sd2816/p58432 Makes it far easier to get the muck right into the joint. The width of the jointer needs to be the same, or a tad smaller, that the joint width. I improvised with a bit of bent oval section steel strip, approx 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick so nice an rigid. Works like a dream compared to trying to use something that won't go into the joint. Just put the muck on a rectangular trowel offer edge to bottom of joint and slide muck off trowel into joint pushing it right to the back with the jointer. Bear in mind I was also pointing rough stone so joints varied from 1" to virtually nothing and from 1/2" to several inches deep. On Roger's point about the mix, in my limited (and probably useless) experience you do need to make the muck really light and fluffy. That's the thought that went through my mind when I saw the tool. The mix would have to be really soft to squidge through the nozzle without having to apply loads of effort to the plunger. So soft that it would probably slump out of the joint. Off a trowel with jointer you can use a nice stiff mix that stays where you put it... -- Cheers Dave. |
#6
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Anyone used one of these?
On Jun 7, 9:26*pm, The Medway Handyman
wrote: http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) -- Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk They do work very well. I've used it for pointing blockwork on an extension, and around paving slabs. You need to use a plasticiser to allow it to flow nicely, and spend a little bit of time getting used to it, but once you've got the knack, it's very easy. dan. |
#7
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Anyone used one of these?
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Medway Handyman saying something like: http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) The video is convincing enough, and I assume that it's simple and rugged enough to withstand conditions on a building site and the gentle administrations of thousands of brickies and their assistants. Wtf is a putlog? |
#8
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Anyone used one of these?
Do you have brick jointer or
similar? Aye - but it'd not be my tool of choice for pushing muck as it's rounded. In any event, my learning difficulty is with making the muck stand proud of the joint without getting muck all over the face of the brick. So I usually end up with a brushed "flush" finish which looks pretty poor on old bricks with meandering and chipped edges. That's the thought that went through my mind when I saw the tool. The mix would have to be really soft to squidge through the nozzle without having to apply loads of effort to the plunger. So soft that it would probably slump out of the joint. Off a trowel with jointer you can use a nice stiff mix that stays where you put it... I've not had that problem. Bear in mind this tool has a large nozzle - much larger than others I have seen - so "light and fluffy" does not mean "runny as **** water". I've not tried to measure the hardness of the result but it resists my thumbnail so I reckon it'll see me out -- Robin PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com |
#9
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Anyone used one of these?
In article ,
Grimly Curmudgeon writes: We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember The Medway Handyman saying something like: http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) The video is convincing enough, and I assume that it's simple and rugged enough to withstand conditions on a building site and the gentle administrations of thousands of brickies and their assistants. No one on a building site would be caught dead with one. If you get the opportunity, get a brickie to show you how to do pointing. It isn't difficult, but like most of the wet trades, being shown is worth thousands of words of explaining. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
#10
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Anyone used one of these?
The Medway Handyman wrote:
http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) The gun (similar to a normal silicone gun) is a better applicator. The mix needs to be light, as in more plasticiser than water, otherwise you end up with a cartridge full of cementy water. Oh and the last bit in each cartridge needs to be got rid of as it's usually devoid of any moisture and won't go through the nozzle if re-applied. Once the mortar is in the joint, it has to be left to dry out somewhat before using any kind of smoothing tool, this can take up to 2 hours depending on the weather. |
#11
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Anyone used one of these?
On Jun 8, 2:12*pm, (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
In article , * * * * Grimly Curmudgeon writes: We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember The Medway Handyman saying something like: http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) The video is convincing enough, and I assume that it's simple and rugged enough to withstand conditions on a building site and the gentle administrations of thousands of brickies and their assistants. No one on a building site would be caught dead with one. If you get the opportunity, get a brickie to show you how to do pointing. It isn't difficult, but like most of the wet trades, being shown is worth thousands of words of explaining. A bit like the difference between those who can apply silicone around a bath, etc., and those who have to resort to Fugenboys. MBQ |
#12
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Anyone used one of these?
On 07/06/2011 21:26, The Medway Handyman wrote:
http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-) Looks like the right shape but where does the maiden put the batteries? ;-) -- Howard Neil |
#13
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Anyone used one of these?
In message , Grimly
Curmudgeon writes Wtf is a putlog? Thank you. Saves me asking :-) -- Graeme |
#14
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Anyone used one of these?
On Jun 8, 1:53*pm, Owain wrote:
On Jun 8, 1:15*pm, Grimly Curmudgeon *wrote: Wtf is a putlog? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Putlog_hole To be pedantic, that describes what a putlog *hole* is. A putlog is the short piece of scaffold pipe with a flattened end that ties the scaffolding into the newly built wall. The brickie will leave the occasional joint unpointed as a putlog hole, and the scaffolder can stick a putlog in it when he puts up the next lift of scaffolding. Obviously, when the scaffolding comes down at the end of the job, someone has to fill in all the putlog holes. |
#15
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Anyone used one of these?
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Martin Bonner saying something like: A putlog is the short piece of scaffold pipe with a flattened end that ties the scaffolding into the newly built wall. The brickie will leave the occasional joint unpointed as a putlog hole, and the scaffolder can stick a putlog in it when he puts up the next lift of scaffolding. Obviously, when the scaffolding comes down at the end of the job, someone has to fill in all the putlog holes. Most informative. Thanks. |
#16
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Anyone used one of these?
In article ,
Martin Bonner writes: On Jun 8, 1:53*pm, Owain wrote: On Jun 8, 1:15*pm, Grimly Curmudgeon *wrote: Wtf is a putlog? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Putlog_hole To be pedantic, that describes what a putlog *hole* is. A putlog is the short piece of scaffold pipe with a flattened end that ties the scaffolding into the newly built wall. The brickie will leave the occasional joint unpointed as a putlog hole, and the scaffolder can stick a putlog in it when he puts up the next lift of scaffolding. Obviously, when the scaffolding comes down at the end of the job, someone has to fill in all the putlog holes. and it's often obvious, because whilst the bulk of the pointing will have been experly done by a brickie, the putlog holes are often filled by jobber or scaffolder. -- Andrew Gabriel [email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup] |
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