UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Prev Previous Post   Next Post Next
  #1   Report Post  
Posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 126
Default Converting CH to C plan or something else ... a few questions

Hi all
I have a plan ... a yen really ... to improve our CH heating system. It
currently has a 4-port back boiler running a gravity feed HW, pumped CH
system. I installed a Sunvic select (207, I think) programmer a while ago,
and replaced the pump with a Grundfoss when the original died.

We do suffer from lack of HW after someone has had a bath etc. I don't want
to change the back boiler, even though I realise it's old-skool.

I have in mind to either:

a) add a Cylinder thermostat and 2-port valve, and convert to C-plan. The
valve will have to be on the return from the boiler, there's no room in the
flow pipe.
b) add a mid-position valve and convert to Y plan (no zoning envisaged).

I've read lots about doing this sort of work on the archives of this fine
newsgroup, and on the wiki. I've also identified all the pipes in the
current arrangement and understand the need for siting the valve with
respect to the flow & return to the F&E tank etc. I do still have a few
questions which might help me decide the route to take. Answers gratefully
received.

1) with my devil's advocate hat on, would there be any real benefit of a C-
plan over our current arrangement?

2) Y-plan seems to be talked of slightly disparagingly in comparison to S-
plan, due to reliabilty problems, difficulty with problem diagnosis, and
lack of zone expansion capability. Given that I don't intend to have any
zoning, are the other problems real (eg. these days)?

3) If I were to change to Y-plan, I understand that I'd need to cap off part
of the boiler. As I mentioned, the back boiler has 4 ports - 2x22mm
(currently CH), and 2x28mm (currently to the heat exchanger for HW). Is this
just a matter of capping off the two 28mm pipes (and moving the feed and
vent pipes) ?

3a) I assume that the reason that the pipes from the boiler are different
diameters for the two circuits is that the larger 28mm dia. gives less
resistance and better allows the HW to be unpumped - is that right?

4) what, exactly, should I be looking for spec-wise in a gate valve, apart
from the pipe diameter? I have a part number for a 2-port Honeywell valve
but I'm curious about what the spec actually calls for. There are a lot of
valves for sale on eBay ...

Thanks a lot in advance

regards
Jon N

 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules

Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
converting to LPG?? mm Home Repair 36 November 18th 09 01:06 AM
Converting a ATX PS to 13.8v Dave Plowman (News) Electronics Repair 25 August 11th 09 12:59 PM
Converting a ATX PS to 13.8v Dave Plowman (News) Electronics Repair 3 August 6th 09 11:40 PM
Converting from metric to inches in a plan [email protected] Woodworking 26 July 11th 08 12:46 AM
Y-plan wiring questions Geronimo W. Christ Esq UK diy 7 March 12th 06 10:03 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 12:12 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004-2024 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.
 

About Us

"It's about DIY & home improvement"