I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself. I've not made steel bolts before, just
tiny brass ones.

So, get some one inch square steel and turn it down to half an inch
like this:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

Here's the lathe at work. There's a lot of metal to get rid of:
http://i53.tinypic.com/jkuars.jpg

I used a hand die for cutting the thread. I suppose one day I'll learn
how to do the threading on the lathe. I have no idea how that is done.
I have a horror of the tool winding itself into the chuck. Not that
I've ever done that.

In message
,
Matty F writes
I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself. I've not made steel bolts before, just
tiny brass ones.

So, get some one inch square steel and turn it down to half an inch
like this:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

Here's the lathe at work. There's a lot of metal to get rid of:
http://i53.tinypic.com/jkuars.jpg

I used a hand die for cutting the thread. I suppose one day I'll learn
how to do the threading on the lathe. I have no idea how that is done.
I have a horror of the tool winding itself into the chuck. Not that
I've ever done that.

First 6 weeks in the apprentice school 50 years ago and not used since!
AFAIR you obviously need a cutting tool ground to the correct thread
form. The lead screw is mechanically synchronised with the chuck but you
have to work out the correct gear ratio for your chosen thread pitch.
After that things get a bit hazy.... an expert will be along shortly:-)

regards


--
Tim Lamb

On 24/05/2011 08:52, Matty F wrote:
I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself. I've not made steel bolts before, just
tiny brass ones.

I suspect I could get the size from my local supplier, but with hex
heads rather than square. However, he has surprised me before with what
he has in stock.

So, get some one inch square steel and turn it down to half an inch
like this:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

Here's the lathe at work. There's a lot of metal to get rid of:
http://i53.tinypic.com/jkuars.jpg

I used a hand die for cutting the thread. I suppose one day I'll learn
how to do the threading on the lathe. I have no idea how that is done.
I have a horror of the tool winding itself into the chuck. Not that
I've ever done that.


There are three main ways to thread on the lathe.

First, buy a lathe with a threading function. The crosslide is driven at
the right speed to give the number of threads per inch (or mm) you want.
When it runs up against a stop, the drive disengages. You do end up with
a groove at the end of the thread this way. As you will probably need to
take multiple cuts, there is a small clock device that shows you when to
engange the drive again to follow the same cuts.

Second, use a button die holder in the tailstock. This has two parts - a
fixed part that goes in the tailstock (or capstan if applicable) and a
part that holds the die. The die holder part is free to rotate unless
pressed up close to the fixed part, when it is held stationary by dogs.
It needs a steady feed to keep the two parts together. When you reach
the end of the thread, stop feeding and the die holder part will pull
forward and rotate freely. The disadvantage here is that you have to
back the die off the thread, as you would with a hand die.

Third, use a Coventry die head. These have a set of three of more
cutting dies that move in and out radially. Again, this is fed in using
the tailstock or capstan but, at the end of the cut, when the die pulls
forward the dies snap open, coming clear of the thread. The holder can
then be pulled straight back off the workpiece without having to reverse
the lathe. You can also get Coventry die heads that open on striking a
stop, rather than on pulling off. Coventry die heads are expensive, but
completely worth the cost for repetitive machining with a capstan lathe.

Colin Bignell

"Matty F" wrote in message
...
I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself. I've not made steel bolts before, just
tiny brass ones.

So, get some one inch square steel and turn it down to half an inch
like this:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

Here's the lathe at work. There's a lot of metal to get rid of:
http://i53.tinypic.com/jkuars.jpg

I used a hand die for cutting the thread. I suppose one day I'll learn
how to do the threading on the lathe. I have no idea how that is done.
I have a horror of the tool winding itself into the chuck. Not that
I've ever done that.

Don't forget that a cut thread may be weaker than a rolled thread, use a
better grade of steel if its important.

On May 24, 9:32*am, "Nightjar \"cpb\"@" "insertmysurnamehere wrote:

First, buy a lathe with a threading function.

You also need one with a leadscrew that's either metric or imperial,
as needed. It's awkward to convert from one to the other (although it
can be done, it can usually only be done on larger lathes, on account
of needing a 127 tooth changewheel for the conversion).

If you have access to one, a die box is the best practical way to cut
threads on a lathe.

If you're making "bolts", then a normal hand die stock is a perfectly
adequate way to do it - there's a small tendency for the thread to
wobble, but if you're only using short nuts on it, then that's no
problem. Supporting the die stock with the tailstock from behind is
normally a help.

Thread cutting with a point tool on the lathe is a specialist task.
Even when you're tooled up and experienced in doing it, it's unusual
to do it if you're merely making a thread for a threaded fastener.

On 24/05/2011 08:52, Matty F wrote:

So, get some one inch square steel

What grade of material did you use? It looks as if it might be ordinary
mild steel. Is that strong enough, given that almost any bolt you
purchase these days will be a high-tensile grade?

Not criticising, just wondering. You've certainly got a nice finish on
them.

--
Andy

On May 24, 9:25 pm, Andy Wade wrote:
On 24/05/2011 08:52, Matty F wrote:

So, get some one inch square steel

What grade of material did you use? It looks as if it might be ordinary
mild steel. Is that strong enough, given that almost any bolt you
purchase these days will be a high-tensile grade?

Not criticising, just wondering. You've certainly got a nice finish on
them.

I think it was mild steel, bought for that job by a qualified person.
I need to match 109 year old bolts, which are not high tensile. They
are merely holding pieces of wood together.

On May 24, 9:18 pm, Andy Dingley wrote:
On May 24, 9:32 am, "Nightjar \"cpb\"@" "insertmysurnamehere wrote:

First, buy a lathe with a threading function.

You also need one with a leadscrew that's either metric or imperial,
as needed. It's awkward to convert from one to the other (although it
can be done, it can usually only be done on larger lathes, on account
of needing a 127 tooth changewheel for the conversion).

If you have access to one, a die box is the best practical way to cut
threads on a lathe.

If you're making "bolts", then a normal hand die stock is a perfectly
adequate way to do it - there's a small tendency for the thread to
wobble, but if you're only using short nuts on it, then that's no
problem. Supporting the die stock with the tailstock from behind is
normally a help.

That is what I did in this case.

Thread cutting with a point tool on the lathe is a specialist task.
Even when you're tooled up and experienced in doing it, it's unusual
to do it if you're merely making a thread for a threaded fastener.

I will thread all these bolts by hand.
There are other jobs involving two inch threads with unusual pitches,
that will have to be done with a point tool on the lathe. I shall
watch someone else do it with interest.

On May 24, 10:25*am, Andy Wade wrote:

almost any bolt you
purchase these days will be a high-tensile grade?

I'm just wondering if I've ever seen a _Whitworth_ bolt in high-
tensile steel?

Andy Dingley wrote:
On May 24, 10:25 am, Andy Wade wrote:

almost any bolt you
purchase these days will be a high-tensile grade?

I'm just wondering if I've ever seen a _Whitworth_ bolt in high-
tensile steel?
surely these were the default type for cast iron cylinder heads and blocks?

On May 24, 11:06*am, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

I'm just wondering if I've ever seen a _Whitworth_ bolt in high-
tensile steel?

surely these were the default type for cast iron cylinder heads and blocks?

So why would you need a high-tensile bolt if it's going into CI? The
threads will fail long before the bolt. If it's a bolt with this much
force on it, you'd use a stonger thread than Whitworth.

I've got stashes of BSF bolts from the '30s & '40s that are high
tensile, but none of the Whit are.

Matty F wrote:

http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..

--
Paul - xxx

Matty F wrote:

I think it was mild steel, bought for that job by a qualified person.
I need to match 109 year old bolts, which are not high tensile. They
are merely holding pieces of wood together.

Can I be a complete Philistine and ask why the thread matters at all if
these bolts are just being used to hold bits of wood together? Why not just
buy a nut and bolt set off the shelf? So what if it's metric?




--
Murphy's ultimate law is that if something that could go wrong doesn't,
it turns out that it would have been better if it had gone wrong.

GB wrote:

Matty F wrote:

I think it was mild steel, bought for that job by a qualified
person. I need to match 109 year old bolts, which are not high
tensile. They are merely holding pieces of wood together.

Can I be a complete Philistine and ask why the thread matters at all
if these bolts are just being used to hold bits of wood together? Why
not just buy a nut and bolt set off the shelf? So what if it's metric?

'Authenticity'?

--
Paul - xxx

On May 24, 12:10*pm, "Paul - xxx" wrote:
Matty F wrote:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff *bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..

I was surprised to see you proposing a replacement for that. Put a
bunch of nuts on it and you can whack it back straight too, I dont
think I'd replace it. Wire brush the head clean.


NT

Paul - xxx wrote:
GB wrote:

Matty F wrote:

I think it was mild steel, bought for that job by a qualified
person. I need to match 109 year old bolts, which are not high
tensile. They are merely holding pieces of wood together.

Can I be a complete Philistine and ask why the thread matters at all
if these bolts are just being used to hold bits of wood together? Why
not just buy a nut and bolt set off the shelf? So what if it's
metric?

'Authenticity'?

I thought it's an advantage if you can tell the replacement bits from the
original?





--
Murphy's ultimate law is that if something that could go wrong doesn't,
it turns out that it would have been better if it had gone wrong.

"Tabby" wrote in message
...
On May 24, 12:10 pm, "Paul - xxx" wrote:
Matty F wrote:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..

That's where a thread file is handy, I have restored many an old bolt with
one.

Mike

On 24/05/2011 10:18, Andy Dingley wrote:
On May 24, 9:32 am, "Nightjar\"cpb\"@""insertmysurnamehere wrote:

First, buy a lathe with a threading function.

You also need one with a leadscrew that's either metric or imperial,
as needed. It's awkward to convert from one to the other (although it
can be done, it can usually only be done on larger lathes, on account
of needing a 127 tooth changewheel for the conversion).

I wouldn't really count a Myford CL7 as a 'larger lathe', unless you are
comparing it to a Pultra. One lathe I had you could set the thread pitch
with a gearbox, rather than having to change gearwheels, although the
range was fairly limited and Imperial only.

If you have access to one, a die box is the best practical way to cut
threads on a lathe.

The best way to form threads on most materials is to roll them. It may
not be the most practical way for the home worker though.

If you're making "bolts", then a normal hand die stock is a perfectly
adequate way to do it - there's a small tendency for the thread to
wobble, but if you're only using short nuts on it, then that's no
problem. Supporting the die stock with the tailstock from behind is
normally a help.

Thread cutting with a point tool on the lathe is a specialist task.
Even when you're tooled up and experienced in doing it, it's unusual
to do it if you're merely making a thread for a threaded fastener.

It is cheaper and easier than having a lot of dies you don't use very often.

Colin Bignell

"Matty F" wrote in message
...
I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself. I've not made steel bolts before, just
tiny brass ones.

So, get some one inch square steel and turn it down to half an inch
like this:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg


Nice work. A lath is the one tool I would love to own.

I did make a couple of long bolts a few years ago simply because I was
unable to buy stock ones long enough. I cheated and puddle welded a second
nut onto the end of a length of rod, then hand threaded the other end. I
first cut a short thread for the nut that made the head, about two thirds
the depth of the nut, puddle welded the remaining hole and ground it off
smooth. The finished article looked just like a bolt head.

Mike

On 24/05/2011 11:00, Andy Dingley wrote:
On May 24, 10:25 am, Andy wrote:

almost any bolt you
purchase these days will be a high-tensile grade?

I'm just wondering if I've ever seen a _Whitworth_ bolt in high-
tensile steel?

Any with a head marking of 8.8 or H are high tensile. I would also be
surprised if you could buy anything other than high tensile bolts off
the shelf today.

Colin Bignell

On May 24, 8:52*am, Matty F wrote:

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

Your new ones won't last - they're made of steel, not wrought iron.

Now if only you'd forged some iron ones up... 8-)

On May 25, 5:14 am, Andy Dingley wrote:
On May 24, 8:52 am, Matty F wrote:

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

Your new ones won't last - they're made of steel, not wrought iron.

Now if only you'd forged some iron ones up... 8-)

The bolts are going to be painted properly, and mostly kept indoors
and certainly away from the rain.
Instead of being abandoned in a farmer's paddock for 20 years.

On May 24, 11:22 pm, "GB" wrote:
Matty F wrote:
I think it was mild steel, bought for that job by a qualified person.
I need to match 109 year old bolts, which are not high tensile. They
are merely holding pieces of wood together.

Can I be a complete Philistine and ask why the thread matters at all if
these bolts are just being used to hold bits of wood together? Why not just
buy a nut and bolt set off the shelf? So what if it's metric?

The square head has to fit into original timber holes on an artifact
that is unique in the world. I try to refurbish the original parts if
possible but the old bolts are too rusty.

On 5/24/2011 11:10 PM, Paul - xxx wrote:
Matty F wrote:

http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..


And run the die over it.

On 5/25/2011 1:00 AM, MuddyMike wrote:
"Matty wrote in message
...
I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself. I've not made steel bolts before, just
tiny brass ones.

So, get some one inch square steel and turn it down to half an inch
like this:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg


Nice work. A lath is the one tool I would love to own.

I did make a couple of long bolts a few years ago simply because I was
unable to buy stock ones long enough. I cheated and puddle welded a second
nut onto the end of a length of rod, then hand threaded the other end. I
first cut a short thread for the nut that made the head, about two thirds
the depth of the nut, puddle welded the remaining hole and ground it off
smooth. The finished article looked just like a bolt head.

Mike



I was thinking of welding too. Save all that lathe work.

On May 25, 1:00 am, "MuddyMike" wrote:
"Matty F" wrote in message

...

I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself. I've not made steel bolts before, just
tiny brass ones.

So, get some one inch square steel and turn it down to half an inch
like this:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

Nice work. A lath is the one tool I would love to own.

I did make a couple of long bolts a few years ago simply because I was
unable to buy stock ones long enough. I cheated and puddle welded a second
nut onto the end of a length of rod, then hand threaded the other end. I
first cut a short thread for the nut that made the head, about two thirds
the depth of the nut, puddle welded the remaining hole and ground it off
smooth. The finished article looked just like a bolt head.

It would certainly be easier to weld a nut on the end of some threaded
rod. I haven't done welding for forty years, and in this case the
final bolts might not be strong enough for the job, which is a
nightmare of complicated Victorian design.

On Tue, 24 May 2011 09:32:35 +0100, "Nightjar \"cpb\"@"
"insertmysurnamehere wrote:

There are three main ways to thread on the lathe.

First, buy a lathe with a threading function
Second, use a button die holder in the tailstock
Third, use a Coventry die head.

....or convert it to full CNC or add an E-Leadscrew
http://www.autoartisans.com/ELS and cut just about any thread pitch
you require without buggering about with gearing or dies.

--

On May 25, 9:06 am, Gib Bogle wrote:
On 5/24/2011 11:10 PM, Paul - xxx wrote:

Matty F wrote:

http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..

And run the die over it.

I suppose you are both joking. It's hard to tell sometimes.
Here's an old bolt I fixed up for another job:
http://i25.tinypic.com/2qmes9l.jpg

On 24/05/2011 23:42, Matty F wrote:
On May 25, 9:06 am, Gib wrote:
On 5/24/2011 11:10 PM, Paul - xxx wrote:

Matty F wrote:

http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..

And run the die over it.

I suppose you are both joking. It's hard to tell sometimes.
Here's an old bolt I fixed up for another job:
http://i25.tinypic.com/2qmes9l.jpg


I think that on this thread, some posters are missing the point of
authenticity being the important factor. There are some of us sat in the
background that know what you are trying to aim for and admire your
skills at coming up with the finished product, with a limited workshop
containing machines that are almost as old as the equipment you are
trying to re-furbish.

Keep up the good work.

Dave

On 24/05/2011 22:09, Matty F wrote:
On May 25, 1:00 am, wrote:
"Matty wrote in message

...

I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself. I've not made steel bolts before, just
tiny brass ones.

So, get some one inch square steel and turn it down to half an inch
like this:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

Nice work. A lath is the one tool I would love to own.

I did make a couple of long bolts a few years ago simply because I was
unable to buy stock ones long enough. I cheated and puddle welded a second
nut onto the end of a length of rod, then hand threaded the other end. I
first cut a short thread for the nut that made the head, about two thirds
the depth of the nut, puddle welded the remaining hole and ground it off
smooth. The finished article looked just like a bolt head.

It would certainly be easier to weld a nut on the end of some threaded
rod. I haven't done welding for forty years, and in this case the
final bolts might not be strong enough for the job, which is a
nightmare of complicated Victorian design.

Care to tell us what this nightmare of complicated design is? A lot of
us would be very interested.

Dave

In message
,
Matty F writes
On May 25, 9:06 am, Gib Bogle wrote:
On 5/24/2011 11:10 PM, Paul - xxx wrote:

Matty F wrote:

http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..

And run the die over it.

I suppose you are both joking. It's hard to tell sometimes.
Here's an old bolt I fixed up for another job:
http://i25.tinypic.com/2qmes9l.jpg

Amateur ...
http://www.solarnavigator.net/mythol...ankenstein_mon
ster_Boris_Karloff.jpg


--
geoff

On May 25, 11:13 am, Dave wrote:
On 24/05/2011 22:09, Matty F wrote:



On May 25, 1:00 am, wrote:
"Matty wrote in message

...

I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself. I've not made steel bolts before, just
tiny brass ones.

So, get some one inch square steel and turn it down to half an inch
like this:
http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

Nice work. A lath is the one tool I would love to own.

I did make a couple of long bolts a few years ago simply because I was
unable to buy stock ones long enough. I cheated and puddle welded a second
nut onto the end of a length of rod, then hand threaded the other end. I
first cut a short thread for the nut that made the head, about two thirds
the depth of the nut, puddle welded the remaining hole and ground it off
smooth. The finished article looked just like a bolt head.

It would certainly be easier to weld a nut on the end of some threaded
rod. I haven't done welding for forty years, and in this case the
final bolts might not be strong enough for the job, which is a
nightmare of complicated Victorian design.

Care to tell us what this nightmare of complicated design is? A lot of
us would be very interested.

This typical design appears to be a horse-drawn vehicle converted to
electric power.
http://i56.tinypic.com/11gj8qw.jpg

The roof has lots of tiny windows so it's not strong.
When that humungous pole with springs is added to the roof, it gets
very complicated. It has long pieces of wood held on by 18 bolts.

On May 24, 1:59*pm, "Nightjar \"cpb\"@" "insertmysurnamehere wrote:

You also need one with a leadscrew that's either metric or imperial,
as needed. It's awkward to convert from one to the other (although it
can be done, it can usually only be done on larger lathes, on account
of needing a 127 tooth changewheel for the conversion).

I wouldn't really count a Myford CL7 as a 'larger lathe',

I don't know a CL7, but the ML7 is a tiny little thing, where the only
thing big about it is the pricetag. Crazy things, but that's model
engineers for you. You can get a S/H Colchester for the price of a S/H
ML7, and a lot more tooling included.

One lathe I had you could set the thread pitch
with a gearbox, rather than having to change gearwheels, although the
range was fairly limited and Imperial only.

That's usual. You don't need many pitches, especially not for imperial
work. It's generally impractical to cut metric pitches on an imperial
leadscrew because either the 127 conversion gear uses up all the space
on the banjo, or else the Norton gearbox won't have useful ratios in
it - you need to cut 1.0mm or 1.5mm, but not 1.33mm.


The best way to form threads on most materials is to roll them. It may
not be the most practical way for the home worker though.

It might form the best threads, but it's far from being the best way
to form them. Even with good tooling, rolling threads is a PITA and no-
one does it up to a shoulder.

The only time I roll threads is in thin rod, for strength. It's also
nice to make a thread that's larger than the rod diameter. I have a
bike spoke rolling machine and it comes in handy for a few high
tension, thin wire jobs.



It is cheaper and easier than having a lot of dies you don't use very often.

There's no way that single-point cutting can be said to be "easier",
even if you have a capstan or an automatic. Especially not if the
thread is too big to cut in one pass and you have to pick up the
thread for a second cut.

On 5/25/2011 10:42 AM, Matty F wrote:
On May 25, 9:06 am, Gib wrote:
On 5/24/2011 11:10 PM, Paul - xxx wrote:

Matty F wrote:

http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..

And run the die over it.

I suppose you are both joking. It's hard to tell sometimes.
Here's an old bolt I fixed up for another job:
http://i25.tinypic.com/2qmes9l.jpg

I wasn't joking, Matty. Maybe I've misunderstood, but that corroded
bolt you showed looked to me as if it could be straightened and cleaned
up to be made quite serviceable. I don't know what sort of final effect
you're after, though.

BTW are you familiar with the stationary steam engine that David Harre
and friends restored, at the Oratia Museum? That's a beautiful thing.

On 25/05/2011 01:25, Andy Dingley wrote:
On May 24, 1:59 pm, "Nightjar\"cpb\"@""insertmysurnamehere wrote:

You also need one with a leadscrew that's either metric or imperial,
as needed. It's awkward to convert from one to the other (although it
can be done, it can usually only be done on larger lathes, on account
of needing a 127 tooth changewheel for the conversion).

I wouldn't really count a Myford CL7 as a 'larger lathe',

I don't know a CL7, but the ML7 is a tiny little thing, where the only
thing big about it is the pricetag.

The CL7 is the ML7 with a long bed and a capstan.

Crazy things, but that's model
engineers for you. You can get a S/H Colchester for the price of a S/H
ML7, and a lot more tooling included.

I wouldn't have wanted to try to carry a Colcheter up the stairs to our
first workshop and I doubt it would have stayed there if I did - the
floor bounced.

....
It is cheaper and easier than having a lot of dies you don't use very often.

There's no way that single-point cutting can be said to be "easier",
even if you have a capstan or an automatic. Especially not if the
thread is too big to cut in one pass and you have to pick up the
thread for a second cut.

I can't say I ever found it a chore.

Colin Bignell

On May 25, 12:55 pm, Gib Bogle wrote:
On 5/25/2011 10:42 AM, Matty F wrote:



On May 25, 9:06 am, Gib wrote:
On 5/24/2011 11:10 PM, Paul - xxx wrote:

Matty F wrote:

http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..

And run the die over it.

I suppose you are both joking. It's hard to tell sometimes.
Here's an old bolt I fixed up for another job:
http://i25.tinypic.com/2qmes9l.jpg

I wasn't joking, Matty. Maybe I've misunderstood, but that corroded
bolt you showed looked to me as if it could be straightened and cleaned
up to be made quite serviceable. I don't know what sort of final effect
you're after, though.

While there's not a huge force on the bolts, the old rusty ones are
not really good enough where safety is an issue.
For brake bolts etc we would buy new high tensile bolts.

BTW are you familiar with the stationary steam engine that David Harre
and friends restored, at the Oratia Museum? That's a beautiful thing.

Yes, here it is being used to cook potatoes with steam:
http://i55.tinypic.com/6pn6dc.jpg

Matty F wrote:

I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself.

Do you have a dog?

Matty F wrote:

On May 25, 9:06 am, Gib Bogle wrote:
On 5/24/2011 11:10 PM, Paul - xxx wrote:

Matty F wrote:

http://i55.tinypic.com/kedqas.jpg

I'll make the bolts in pairs and chop them apart later.
The old bolts are way past their prime after 109 years.

sniff bit 'o wire brushing and you'll be fine ..

And run the die over it.

I suppose you are both joking. It's hard to tell sometimes.
Here's an old bolt I fixed up for another job:
http://i25.tinypic.com/2qmes9l.jpg

I was joking, hence the sniff a-la plumber/electrician/mechanic/any
old duffer giving free advice, before he quotes (estimates) an
exorbitant fee ..

--
Paul - xxx

On May 25, 6:46 pm, (Steve Firth) wrote:
Matty F wrote:
I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself.

Do you have a dog?

No I don't. Why do you ask?

In message
,
Matty F writes
On May 25, 6:46 pm, (Steve Firth) wrote:
Matty F wrote:
I don't know what your bolt suppliers are like, but here in the
Antipodes if you want six inch Whitworth bolts with square heads, you
have to make them yourself.

Do you have a dog?

No I don't. Why do you ask?

Is this *keeping a dog and barking yourself*? Bit oblique for most of
us:-)

regards

--
Tim Lamb