My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing installed on
purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the under stairs
storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into the kitchen, it is
near the bottom and on the outside wall which has a window. What is the
best way of treating it and is there a permanent cure? Not certain if
there is an air brick, think so but as I am 50 miles away it is
difficult to check.
--
Residing on low ground in North Staffordshire

Moonraker wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing installed on
purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the under stairs
storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into the kitchen, it is
near the bottom and on the outside wall which has a window. What is the
best way of treating it and is there a permanent cure? Not certain if
there is an air brick, think so but as I am 50 miles away it is
difficult to check.

That's probably condensation. Due to lack of insulation and or lack of
ventilation to that area and it being next door to kitchen.
Rather than improve ventilation. I'd suggest dry lining it with thin
insulation and foil backed board.

Think that the whole thing can be bought as a per-made sandwich.

On May 23, 11:47*am, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
Moonraker wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing installed on
purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the under stairs
storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into the kitchen, it is
near the bottom and on the outside wall which has a window. What is the
best way of treating it and is there a permanent cure? Not certain if
there is an air brick, think so but as I am 50 miles away it is
difficult to check.

That's probably condensation. Due to lack of insulation and or lack of
ventilation to that area and it being next door to kitchen.
* Rather than improve ventilation. I'd suggest dry lining it with thin
insulation and foil backed board.

Think that the whole thing can be bought as a per-made sandwich.

ditto, fwiw

On May 23, 11:08*am, Moonraker wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing installed on
purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the under stairs
storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into the kitchen, it is
near the bottom and on the outside wall which has a window. What is the
best way of treating it and is there a permanent cure? Not certain if
there is an air brick, think so but as I am 50 miles away it is
difficult to check.


others have commented on how to stop the condensation. To remove the
mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the air to
circulate.

Robert

On May 24, 3:19*pm, RobertL wrote:
On May 23, 11:08*am, Moonraker wrote:

My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing installed on
purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the under stairs
storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into the kitchen, it is
near the bottom and on the outside wall which has a window. What is the
best way of treating it and is there a permanent cure? Not certain if
there is an air brick, think so but as I am 50 miles away it is
difficult to check.

others have commented on how to stop the condensation. *To remove the
mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the air to
circulate.

Robert

Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.


NT

On May 24, 3:29 pm, Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, RobertL wrote:



On May 23, 11:08 am, Moonraker wrote:

My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing installed on
purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the under stairs
storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into the kitchen, it is
near the bottom and on the outside wall which has a window. What is the
best way of treating it and is there a permanent cure? Not certain if
there is an air brick, think so but as I am 50 miles away it is
difficult to check.

others have commented on how to stop the condensation. To remove the
mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the air to
circulate.

Robert

Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.

tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill the
current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture accumulating
to start the mould again...

another possibility for the situation could be debris from the window
(if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there is one?)
allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the mould...that all
assumes the window is above the damp patch?

Even if not necess. below the window, if the damp patch is very
localised (e.g. its a defined area on a wall *but not all that wall*)
I would be leaning to other causes than just condensation, as AOTBE
that "condensation" should be affecting *all* that wall not just a
certain area of it....

Jim K

On May 24, 10:16*pm, Jim K wrote:
On May 24, 3:29 pm, Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, RobertL wrote:

On May 23, 11:08 am, Moonraker wrote:


My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing installed on
purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the under stairs
storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into the kitchen, it is
near the bottom and on the outside wall which has a window. What is the
best way of treating it and is there a permanent cure? Not certain if
there is an air brick, think so but as I am 50 miles away it is
difficult to check.

others have commented on how to stop the condensation. *To remove the
mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the air to
circulate.

Robert

Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.

tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill the
current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture accumulating
to start the mould again...

In an ideal world, sure.


another possibility for the situation could be debris from the window
(if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there is one?)
allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the mould...that all
assumes the window is above the damp patch?

Lack of effective cavity isnt a reason for damp.


Even if not necess. below the window, if the damp patch is very
localised (e.g. its a defined area on a wall *but not all that wall*)
I would be leaning to other causes than just condensation, as AOTBE
that "condensation" should be affecting *all* that wall not just a
certain area of it....

Jim K

Condensation doesnt normally affect the whole wall.


NT

On May 24, 10:30 pm, Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 10:16 pm, Jim K wrote:



On May 24, 3:29 pm, Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, RobertL wrote:

On May 23, 11:08 am, Moonraker wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing installed on
purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the under stairs
storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into the kitchen, it is
near the bottom and on the outside wall which has a window. What is the
best way of treating it and is there a permanent cure? Not certain if
there is an air brick, think so but as I am 50 miles away it is
difficult to check.

others have commented on how to stop the condensation. To remove the
mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the air to
circulate.

Robert

Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.

tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill the
current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture accumulating
to start the mould again...

In an ideal world, sure.

;)

another possibility for the situation could be debris from the window
(if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there is one?)
allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the mould...that all
assumes the window is above the damp patch?

Lack of effective cavity isnt a reason for damp.

********!

Even if not necess. below the window, if the damp patch is very
localised (e.g. its a defined area on a wall *but not all that wall*)
I would be leaning to other causes than just condensation, as AOTBE
that "condensation" should be affecting *all* that wall not just a
certain area of it....

Jim K

Condensation doesnt normally affect the whole wall.

really? any more detailed thoughts?

Jim K

On May 24, 10:38*pm, Jim K wrote:
On May 24, 10:30 pm, Tabby wrote:



On May 24, 10:16 pm, Jim K wrote:

On May 24, 3:29 pm, Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, RobertL wrote:

On May 23, 11:08 am, Moonraker wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing installed on
purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the under stairs
storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into the kitchen, it is
near the bottom and on the outside wall which has a window. What is the
best way of treating it and is there a permanent cure? Not certain if
there is an air brick, think so but as I am 50 miles away it is
difficult to check.

others have commented on how to stop the condensation. *To remove the
mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the air to
circulate.

Robert

Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.

tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill the
current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture accumulating
to start the mould again...

In an ideal world, sure.

;)

another possibility for the situation could be debris from the window
(if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there is one?)
allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the mould...that all
assumes the window is above the damp patch?

Lack of effective cavity isnt a reason for damp.

********!

Oh? Do you think the mllions of houses with no cavity all have damp
walls?


Even if not necess. below the window, if the damp patch is very
localised (e.g. its a defined area on a wall *but not all that wall*)
I would be leaning to other causes than just condensation, as AOTBE
that "condensation" should be affecting *all* that wall not just a
certain area of it....

Jim K

Condensation doesnt normally affect the whole wall.

really? any more detailed thoughts?

Jim K

its usually only at the bottom things get bad. Higher up has more
airflow, no thermal conncetion to the cold ground, and more sun.


NT

Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 10:38 pm, Jim K wrote:
On May 24, 10:30 pm, Tabby wrote:



On May 24, 10:16 pm, Jim K wrote:

On May 24, 3:29 pm, Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, RobertL wrote:

On May 23, 11:08 am, Moonraker wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing
installed on purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the
under stairs storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into
the kitchen, it is near the bottom and on the outside wall
which has a window. What is the best way of treating it and is
there a permanent cure? Not certain if there is an air brick,
think so but as I am 50 miles away it is difficult to check.

others have commented on how to stop the condensation. To remove
the mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the
air to circulate.

Robert

Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.

tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill
the current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture
accumulating to start the mould again...

In an ideal world, sure.

;)

another possibility for the situation could be debris from the
window (if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there
is one?) allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the
mould...that all assumes the window is above the damp patch?

Lack of effective cavity isnt a reason for damp.

********!

Oh? Do you think the mllions of houses with no cavity all have damp
walls?

I think you have rather over-exaggerated you calculations somewhat there.

If a stone, single, double or one and half brick wall [1] was completely
effective in preventing damp penetration, then why use a cavity wall system?
(And please don't say it was for thermal insulation).

IME, in most of the houses that I have seen with the above construction [2],
there has *always* been some significant signs damp penetration in one or
more rooms at some time or other - and attempts have often been made to stop
this by rendering the wall, or applying some other waterproof system such as
slate or even corrugated sheets to the external wall[s].

The caveat to that, is solid walls constructed of engineering bricks such as
the Staffordshire blue or red.

[1] 41/2", 9" and 13" brick walls.

[2] Pre 1940's when solid walls were usually the predominant
construction, although a few of the 'new fangled' council houses that were
being built in the late 1920s were beginning to be constructed with
cavities.

On 24/05/2011 23:42, Woodworm wrote:
Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 10:38 pm, Jim wrote:
On May 24, 10:30 pm, wrote:



On May 24, 10:16 pm, Jim wrote:

On May 24, 3:29 pm, wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, wrote:

On May 23, 11:08 am, wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing
installed on purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the
under stairs storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into
the kitchen, it is near the bottom and on the outside wall
which has a window. What is the best way of treating it and is
there a permanent cure? Not certain if there is an air brick,
think so but as I am 50 miles away it is difficult to check.

others have commented on how to stop the condensation. To remove
the mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the
air to circulate.

Robert

Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.

tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill
the current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture
accumulating to start the mould again...

In an ideal world, sure.

;)

another possibility for the situation could be debris from the
window (if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there
is one?) allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the
mould...that all assumes the window is above the damp patch?

Lack of effective cavity isnt a reason for damp.

********!

Oh? Do you think the mllions of houses with no cavity all have damp
walls?

I think you have rather over-exaggerated you calculations somewhat there.

If a stone, single, double or one and half brick wall [1] was completely
effective in preventing damp penetration, then why use a cavity wall system?
(And please don't say it was for thermal insulation).

IME, in most of the houses that I have seen with the above construction [2],
there has *always* been some significant signs damp penetration in one or
more rooms at some time or other - and attempts have often been made to stop
this by rendering the wall, or applying some other waterproof system such as
slate or even corrugated sheets to the external wall[s].

The caveat to that, is solid walls constructed of engineering bricks such as
the Staffordshire blue or red.

[1] 41/2", 9" and 13" brick walls.

[2] Pre 1940's when solid walls were usually the predominant
construction, although a few of the 'new fangled' council houses that were
being built in the late 1920s were beginning to be constructed with
cavities.


It is definitely a brick cavity wall, as I say there was a general damp
problem throughout the house when purchased and it was damp proofed.
This was by drilling holes and an injection of some sort. The original
general damp problem is cured, it is just this one are of mould. As it
is not practical for me to dry line it are there any good products that
will keep the mould at bay? Incidental the kitchen is not greatly used
so not a lot of damp from there methinks.

--
Residing on low ground in North Staffordshire

On May 24, 11:42*pm, "Woodworm" wrote:
Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 10:38 pm, Jim K wrote:
On May 24, 10:30 pm, Tabby wrote:

On May 24, 10:16 pm, Jim K wrote:

On May 24, 3:29 pm, Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, RobertL wrote:

On May 23, 11:08 am, Moonraker wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing
installed on purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the
under stairs storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into
the kitchen, it is near the bottom and on the outside wall
which has a window. What is the best way of treating it and is
there a permanent cure? Not certain if there is an air brick,
think so but as I am 50 miles away it is difficult to check.

others have commented on how to stop the condensation. To remove
the mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the
air to circulate.

Robert

Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.

tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill
the current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture
accumulating to start the mould again...

In an ideal world, sure.

;)

another possibility for the situation could be debris from the
window (if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there
is one?) allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the
mould...that all assumes the window is above the damp patch?

Lack of effective cavity isnt a reason for damp.

********!

Oh? Do you think the mllions of houses with no cavity all have damp
walls?

I think you have rather over-exaggerated you calculations somewhat there.

I dont see any calculations anywhere in this thread


If a stone, single, double or one and half brick wall [1] was completely
effective in preventing damp penetration, then why use a cavity wall system?
(And please don't say it was for thermal insulation).

it was to eliminate the slight risk of damp. The thermal reason is
more modern.


IME, in most of the houses that I have seen with the above construction [2],
there has *always* been some significant signs damp penetration in one or
more rooms at some time or other - and attempts have often been made to stop
this by rendering the wall, or applying some other waterproof system such as
slate or even corrugated sheets to the external wall[s].

Its not what I've observed. Certainly when people have used those
inappropriate approaches, which create damp trouble, its hardly
surprising they have problems. There always were and still are huge
numbers of non-cavity houses that are dry.

Cavity walls ahve been known in the UK for thousands of years, the
reason they were mostly not used before the 30s was that in most cases
they weren't needed. They were primarily recommedned for coastal
areas, where wet driving winds were liable to penetrate solid walls.

Back to the original point: 99% of solid walls, assuming they're not
treated inappropriately, don't sufer damp, thus bridging a cavity is
not in itself a cause of damp. (If people do unwise things with them,
all bets are off.)


NT

On May 25, 11:24*am, Moonraker wrote:
On 24/05/2011 23:42, Woodworm wrote:

Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 10:38 pm, Jim *wrote:
On May 24, 10:30 pm, *wrote:

On May 24, 10:16 pm, Jim *wrote:

On May 24, 3:29 pm, *wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, *wrote:

On May 23, 11:08 am, *wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing
installed on purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the
under stairs storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into
the kitchen, it is near the bottom and on the outside wall
which has a window. What is the best way of treating it and is
there a permanent cure? Not certain if there is an air brick,
think so but as I am 50 miles away it is difficult to check.

others have commented on how to stop the condensation. To remove
the mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.

Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the
air to circulate.

Robert

Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.

tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill
the current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture
accumulating to start the mould again...

In an ideal world, sure.

;)

another possibility for the situation could be debris from the
window (if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there
is one?) allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the
mould...that all assumes the window is above the damp patch?

Lack of effective cavity isnt a reason for damp.

********!

Oh? Do you think the mllions of houses with no cavity all have damp
walls?

I think you have rather over-exaggerated you calculations somewhat there.

If a stone, single, double or one and half brick wall [1] was completely
effective in preventing damp penetration, then why use a cavity wall system?
(And please don't say it was for thermal insulation).

IME, in most of the houses that I have seen with the above construction [2],
there has *always* been some significant signs damp penetration in one or
more rooms at some time or other - and attempts have often been made to stop
this by rendering the wall, or applying some other waterproof system such as
slate or even corrugated sheets to the external wall[s].

The caveat to that, is solid walls constructed of engineering bricks such as
the Staffordshire blue or red.

[1] * *41/2", 9" and 13" brick walls.

[2] * *Pre 1940's when solid walls were usually the predominant
construction, although a few of the 'new fangled' council houses that were
being built in the late 1920s were beginning to be constructed with
cavities.

It is definitely a brick cavity wall, as I say there was a general damp
problem throughout the house when purchased and it was damp proofed.
This was by drilling holes and an injection of some sort. The original
general damp problem is cured, it is just this one are of mould. As it
is not practical for me to dry line it are there any good products that
will keep the mould at bay? Incidental the kitchen is not greatly used
so not a lot of damp from there methinks.


Ahh. If it had a damp problem and the solution was injecting a dpc,
then the odds are that wherever the damp was coming into the house it
still is. It then condenses in this mouldy area. I'd be looking over
the whole house for any and all sources of water ingress, or failure
to get rid of normal dampness.

Applying something to the surface where the mould is can't cure it
unless you're applying insulation. In theory you could apply anti-
mould paint of some sort, but the mould will recur at some point, or
never fully go. You really need to either find the cause of excess RH
in the house or insulate the wall.

Damp and its treatment is one of those subjects on which opinions are
mixed on here.


NT

Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 11:42 pm, "Woodworm" wrote:
Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 10:38 pm, Jim K wrote:
On May 24, 10:30 pm, Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 10:16 pm, Jim K wrote:
On May 24, 3:29 pm, Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, RobertL wrote:
On May 23, 11:08 am, Moonraker wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing
installed on purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the
under stairs storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into
the kitchen, it is near the bottom and on the outside wall
which has a window. What is the best way of treating it and is
there a permanent cure? Not certain if there is an air brick,
think so but as I am 50 miles away it is difficult to check.
others have commented on how to stop the condensation. To remove
the mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.
Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the
air to circulate.
Robert
Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.
tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill
the current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture
accumulating to start the mould again...
In an ideal world, sure.
;)
another possibility for the situation could be debris from the
window (if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there
is one?) allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the
mould...that all assumes the window is above the damp patch?
Lack of effective cavity isnt a reason for damp.
********!
Oh? Do you think the mllions of houses with no cavity all have damp
walls?
I think you have rather over-exaggerated you calculations somewhat there.

I dont see any calculations anywhere in this thread


If a stone, single, double or one and half brick wall [1] was completely
effective in preventing damp penetration, then why use a cavity wall system?
(And please don't say it was for thermal insulation).

it was to eliminate the slight risk of damp. The thermal reason is
more modern.


IME, in most of the houses that I have seen with the above construction [2],
there has *always* been some significant signs damp penetration in one or
more rooms at some time or other - and attempts have often been made to stop
this by rendering the wall, or applying some other waterproof system such as
slate or even corrugated sheets to the external wall[s].

Its not what I've observed. Certainly when people have used those
inappropriate approaches, which create damp trouble, its hardly
surprising they have problems. There always were and still are huge
numbers of non-cavity houses that are dry.

Cavity walls ahve been known in the UK for thousands of years, the
reason they were mostly not used before the 30s was that in most cases
they weren't needed. They were primarily recommedned for coastal
areas, where wet driving winds were liable to penetrate solid walls.

Back to the original point: 99% of solid walls, assuming they're not
treated inappropriately, don't sufer damp, thus bridging a cavity is
not in itself a cause of damp. (If people do unwise things with them,
all bets are off.)


NT
I think more to the point, prior to about 1960, you had a situation in
which home heating was done with open chimneyed solid fuel. That dries
the air inside and sends all the fumes up the chimney. Condensation
happens when you don't use a chimney, and effectively seal a house and
its moisture in.

At this point insulation gets to be pretty important, as does ventilation.

wet brick dries outwards very fast. And the rain never penetrates that
far mostly. Double brick walls are almost completely impervious to rain.

I think cavity walls are in fact better insulators than double brick, in
general.

Tabby wrote:
On May 25, 11:24 am, Moonraker wrote:
On 24/05/2011 23:42, Woodworm wrote:

Tabby wrote:
On May 24, 10:38 pm, Jim wrote:
On May 24, 10:30 pm, wrote:
On May 24, 10:16 pm, Jim wrote:
On May 24, 3:29 pm, wrote:
On May 24, 3:19 pm, wrote:
On May 23, 11:08 am, wrote:
My daughter lives in a 1930's house, she had damp proofing
installed on purchasing it. There is a patch of mould in the
under stairs storage"room" there is no door just a curtain into
the kitchen, it is near the bottom and on the outside wall
which has a window. What is the best way of treating it and is
there a permanent cure? Not certain if there is an air brick,
think so but as I am 50 miles away it is difficult to check.
others have commented on how to stop the condensation. To remove
the mold you can wipe with dilute bleach.
Also, don't stack things in contact with the wall - allow the
air to circulate.
Robert
Bleach is very short lived. Better to repaint with paint using an
added mould killing agent, such as aspirin or copper.
tho if the OP does insulate and pboard it out the bleach will kill
the current mould and the insullation will stop the moisture
accumulating to start the mould again...
In an ideal world, sure.
;)
another possibility for the situation could be debris from the
window (if new or replaced/enlarged?) bridging the cavity if there
is one?) allowing moisture to get to the inner wall hence the
mould...that all assumes the window is above the damp patch?
Lack of effective cavity isnt a reason for damp.
********!
Oh? Do you think the mllions of houses with no cavity all have damp
walls?
I think you have rather over-exaggerated you calculations somewhat there.
If a stone, single, double or one and half brick wall [1] was completely
effective in preventing damp penetration, then why use a cavity wall system?
(And please don't say it was for thermal insulation).
IME, in most of the houses that I have seen with the above construction [2],
there has *always* been some significant signs damp penetration in one or
more rooms at some time or other - and attempts have often been made to stop
this by rendering the wall, or applying some other waterproof system such as
slate or even corrugated sheets to the external wall[s].
The caveat to that, is solid walls constructed of engineering bricks such as
the Staffordshire blue or red.
[1] 41/2", 9" and 13" brick walls.
[2] Pre 1940's when solid walls were usually the predominant
construction, although a few of the 'new fangled' council houses that were
being built in the late 1920s were beginning to be constructed with
cavities.
It is definitely a brick cavity wall, as I say there was a general damp
problem throughout the house when purchased and it was damp proofed.
This was by drilling holes and an injection of some sort. The original
general damp problem is cured, it is just this one are of mould. As it
is not practical for me to dry line it are there any good products that
will keep the mould at bay? Incidental the kitchen is not greatly used
so not a lot of damp from there methinks.


Ahh. If it had a damp problem and the solution was injecting a dpc,
then the odds are that wherever the damp was coming into the house it
still is. It then condenses in this mouldy area. I'd be looking over
the whole house for any and all sources of water ingress, or failure
to get rid of normal dampness.

Applying something to the surface where the mould is can't cure it
unless you're applying insulation. In theory you could apply anti-
mould paint of some sort, but the mould will recur at some point, or
never fully go. You really need to either find the cause of excess RH
in the house or insulate the wall.

Damp and its treatment is one of those subjects on which opinions are
mixed on here.


The facts however are not.

Either you stop it getting in, or you help it getting out.

Either works.

It so happens that ant thermal barriers you install are likely to also
be prertty effective water and moisture barriers, so once you take the
'sealed house with insulation ' approach you must complete the task with
DPC/DPM special ventilation, insulation and reducing water ingress.





NT