Problems never cease. Two halogen bulbs in the kitchen failed a few
days ago, though one was intermittent. New bulbs were obtained. Don't
work. Swapped bulbs in good sockets. No problem. So it's not the
bulbs. It's not the consumer unit protection switches, either (all
up). So it must be the Aurora AU-E60 transformers. What would one
expect to pay for one of these? Amazon's price is £8.95 with free
shipping. Seems a lot for such a diddly little thing.

However, more importantly, how the heck do I gain access to the
transformers for the kitchen lights? On the upper floor (e.g. for
lights in bathroom or landing) it's easy, because I can just go up
into the roof space and the transformers are just lying around on
lengths of cable. But surely I don't need to lift the floorboards to
access the ones for the kitchen?

Fed up with ruddy modern gizmos...

MM

"MM" wrote in message
...
Problems never cease. Two halogen bulbs in the kitchen failed a few
days ago, though one was intermittent. New bulbs were obtained. Don't
work. Swapped bulbs in good sockets. No problem. So it's not the
bulbs. It's not the consumer unit protection switches, either (all
up). So it must be the Aurora AU-E60 transformers. What would one
expect to pay for one of these? Amazon's price is £8.95 with free
shipping. Seems a lot for such a diddly little thing.

However, more importantly, how the heck do I gain access to the
transformers for the kitchen lights? On the upper floor (e.g. for
lights in bathroom or landing) it's easy, because I can just go up
into the roof space and the transformers are just lying around on
lengths of cable. But surely I don't need to lift the floorboards to
access the ones for the kitchen?

They usually fit through the holes the down lighters are in, you don't say
what yours are.

In message , MM
writes
Problems never cease. Two halogen bulbs in the kitchen failed a few
days ago, though one was intermittent. New bulbs were obtained. Don't
work. Swapped bulbs in good sockets. No problem. So it's not the
bulbs. It's not the consumer unit protection switches, either (all
up). So it must be the Aurora AU-E60 transformers. What would one
expect to pay for one of these? Amazon's price is £8.95 with free
shipping. Seems a lot for such a diddly little thing.


Probably, but haven't bought any for years, compare the prices with say
TLC or screwfix etc. They don't need to be the same brand, just the same
rating.

However, more importantly, how the heck do I gain access to the
transformers for the kitchen lights? On the upper floor (e.g. for
lights in bathroom or landing) it's easy, because I can just go up
into the roof space and the transformers are just lying around on
lengths of cable. But surely I don't need to lift the floorboards to
access the ones for the kitchen?

Normally through the hole the lights are fitted in. Remove the light
from the hole - pull them down carefully, they are just held in place
by spring clips behind. and pull the cable to bring out the transformer.
--
Chris French

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 08:35:59 +0100, chris French
wrote:

In message , MM
writes
Problems never cease. Two halogen bulbs in the kitchen failed a few
days ago, though one was intermittent. New bulbs were obtained. Don't
work. Swapped bulbs in good sockets. No problem. So it's not the
bulbs. It's not the consumer unit protection switches, either (all
up). So it must be the Aurora AU-E60 transformers. What would one
expect to pay for one of these? Amazon's price is £8.95 with free
shipping. Seems a lot for such a diddly little thing.


Probably, but haven't bought any for years, compare the prices with say
TLC or screwfix etc. They don't need to be the same brand, just the same
rating.

However, more importantly, how the heck do I gain access to the
transformers for the kitchen lights? On the upper floor (e.g. for
lights in bathroom or landing) it's easy, because I can just go up
into the roof space and the transformers are just lying around on
lengths of cable. But surely I don't need to lift the floorboards to
access the ones for the kitchen?

Normally through the hole the lights are fitted in. Remove the light
from the hole - pull them down carefully, they are just held in place
by spring clips behind. and pull the cable to bring out the transformer.

Okay, I did that (removed light fixture). Now I've put it back
temporarily till I get a new transformer, but now I can't get the
spring clips to hold the fixture in place firmly. The round, beige
bezel is slightly loose against the ceiling.

Here's some pictures I did half an hour ago:
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/lights/

Scroll down to see all four pics.

On pic3.jpg, are the spring clips supposed to be pushed flat when the
holder is in the ceiling? I can barely get my fingers in through the
hole! Or have I bent them on removal?

Thanks!

MM

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 10:27:14 +0100, MM wrote:

On pic3.jpg, are the spring clips supposed to be pushed flat when the
holder is in the ceiling? I can barely get my fingers in through the
hole! Or have I bent them on removal?

Did you just pull the bezel out or did you release the springs first?
Just pulling out will probably have bent them...

--
Cheers
Dave.

MM wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 08:35:59 +0100, chris French
wrote:

In message , MM
writes
Problems never cease. Two halogen bulbs in the kitchen failed a few
days ago, though one was intermittent. New bulbs were obtained.
Don't work. Swapped bulbs in good sockets. No problem. So it's not
the bulbs. It's not the consumer unit protection switches, either
(all up). So it must be the Aurora AU-E60 transformers. What would
one expect to pay for one of these? Amazon's price is £8.95 with
free shipping. Seems a lot for such a diddly little thing.


Probably, but haven't bought any for years, compare the prices with
say TLC or screwfix etc. They don't need to be the same brand, just
the same rating.

However, more importantly, how the heck do I gain access to the
transformers for the kitchen lights? On the upper floor (e.g. for
lights in bathroom or landing) it's easy, because I can just go up
into the roof space and the transformers are just lying around on
lengths of cable. But surely I don't need to lift the floorboards to
access the ones for the kitchen?

Normally through the hole the lights are fitted in. Remove the light
from the hole - pull them down carefully, they are just held in
place by spring clips behind. and pull the cable to bring out the
transformer.

Okay, I did that (removed light fixture). Now I've put it back
temporarily till I get a new transformer, but now I can't get the
spring clips to hold the fixture in place firmly. The round, beige
bezel is slightly loose against the ceiling.

Here's some pictures I did half an hour ago:
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/lights/

Scroll down to see all four pics.

On pic3.jpg, are the spring clips supposed to be pushed flat when the
holder is in the ceiling? I can barely get my fingers in through the
hole! Or have I bent them on removal?

The springs look fine. However the lugs they are attached to look like they
are bent slightly inwards. It often happens.

--
Adam

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 13:48:53 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 20/04/2011 10:27, MM wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 08:35:59 +0100, chris French
wrote:

In , MM
writes
Problems never cease. Two halogen bulbs in the kitchen failed a few
days ago, though one was intermittent. New bulbs were obtained. Don't
work. Swapped bulbs in good sockets. No problem. So it's not the
bulbs. It's not the consumer unit protection switches, either (all
up). So it must be the Aurora AU-E60 transformers. What would one
expect to pay for one of these? Amazon's price is £8.95 with free
shipping. Seems a lot for such a diddly little thing.

TLCs cheapest are about £6.90 at the mo...



Probably, but haven't bought any for years, compare the prices with say
TLC or screwfix etc. They don't need to be the same brand, just the same
rating.

However, more importantly, how the heck do I gain access to the
transformers for the kitchen lights? On the upper floor (e.g. for
lights in bathroom or landing) it's easy, because I can just go up
into the roof space and the transformers are just lying around on
lengths of cable. But surely I don't need to lift the floorboards to
access the ones for the kitchen?

Normally through the hole the lights are fitted in. Remove the light
from the hole - pull them down carefully, they are just held in place
by spring clips behind. and pull the cable to bring out the transformer.

Okay, I did that (removed light fixture). Now I've put it back
temporarily till I get a new transformer, but now I can't get the
spring clips to hold the fixture in place firmly. The round, beige
bezel is slightly loose against the ceiling.

Here's some pictures I did half an hour ago:
http://www.littletyke.myzen.co.uk/lights/

Scroll down to see all four pics.

On pic3.jpg, are the spring clips supposed to be pushed flat when the
holder is in the ceiling? I can barely get my fingers in through the
hole! Or have I bent them on removal?

The lugs on the fitting look slightly bent inwards. That will make a bit
of difference. The way the springs work is that the short tabs hit the
ceiling and rotate the long part of the clip round on top of the
ceiling. Then they push against the side of the hole in the ceiling to
provide the cantilever for the final "spring". Hence if the hole is a
bit generous on one axis they can end up a little loose - sometimes this
can just be because the springs themselves have gouged a bit out of the
plasterboard on removal. Rotating the whole assembly a few degrees will
fix that.

Many thanks to everybody! I have installed a new transformer and it
works!!!!

(Still have to fit the mount back in the ceiling, but I wanted to
impart the good news first.)

In the Spalding area I had the devil's own job to locate replacement
transformers. Eventually I was pointed to the industrial estate and an
electrical wholesalers name of EPH. They sold me a JCC JC4030, which
the retailer assured me was plug-compatible with the Aurora AU-E60.
Anyway, I switched off the mains lighting circuit for downstairs rear
and also tested the junction box pins (out of the hole in the ceiling)
with a neon test screwdriver. Then I carefully fitted the new
transformer. One small question: The low voltage wires come with short
rubber/plastic sleeves over the ends of the already bared wires. What
are they for? I thought I'd need sidecutters, but the thing was just
ready to install out of the box. Cost me £6 including VAT.

And now, finally, to the ruddy spring clips: Suppose I cannot get the
bezel/mount (what the heck does the trade call it?) to fit snugly
against the ceiling, can I get a replacement, and if so, what do I
search for on the web? I tried first thing this morning, tried for
ages, but found absolutely nothing, not even similar.

Thanks again.

MM

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 07:41:26 +0100, MM wrote:

Problems never cease. Two halogen bulbs in the kitchen failed a few
days ago, though one was intermittent. New bulbs were obtained. Don't
work. Swapped bulbs in good sockets. No problem. So it's not the
bulbs. It's not the consumer unit protection switches, either (all
up). So it must be the Aurora AU-E60 transformers. What would one
expect to pay for one of these? Amazon's price is £8.95 with free
shipping. Seems a lot for such a diddly little thing.

However, more importantly, how the heck do I gain access to the
transformers for the kitchen lights? On the upper floor (e.g. for
lights in bathroom or landing) it's easy, because I can just go up
into the roof space and the transformers are just lying around on
lengths of cable. But surely I don't need to lift the floorboards to
access the ones for the kitchen?

Fed up with ruddy modern gizmos...

MM

I have two out of a dozen 12v lights in the kitchen that 'fail' now and
then. Each fitting has its own transformer

It isn't the bulb or the transformer, but the actual bulb holder that plays
up. The wires into the back of the bulb holders need an occasional tweak
and they will work again quite happily until the next time they go out.....

The bulbs are held in place by a removeable ring, so the whole fitting
doesn't need to come out. Remove the bulb and the connector is revealed. I
usually have SWMBO flick the switch down once I've tweaked the wires, just
to make sure the light is working again. Yes, I know in theory it should be
possible to get the wires set so the problem doesn't reappear but it does,
and I can't be arsed to get new connectors for the bulbs.

--
The Wanderer

If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a
nail.

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 10:51:35 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 10:27:14 +0100, MM wrote:

On pic3.jpg, are the spring clips supposed to be pushed flat when the
holder is in the ceiling? I can barely get my fingers in through the
hole! Or have I bent them on removal?

Did you just pull the bezel out or did you release the springs first?
Just pulling out will probably have bent them...

I'm afraid I used force, sorry! Didn't know how they were fixed. Of
course, I *should* have gone up into the roof space and looked at the
ones for the upper landing or bathroom, which are exactly the same. I
went up there a few minutes ago and the long legs of the springs are
pushed flat down onto the plasterboard. The short legs appear to
simply dig into the side of the hole.

Maybe I'll have to write this mount off to experience and be more
careful with the other two. I'll look out for a supplier who can
supply a replacement mount and in the meantime if it is not completely
snug against the ceiling, it won't matter for a week or two.

MM

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 10:51:35 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 10:27:14 +0100, MM wrote:

On pic3.jpg, are the spring clips supposed to be pushed flat when the
holder is in the ceiling? I can barely get my fingers in through the
hole! Or have I bent them on removal?

Did you just pull the bezel out or did you release the springs first?
Just pulling out will probably have bent them...

15:30 Update!

I see now how the mount is fixed. You just insert it in the hole and
push and it kind of snaps in. Firm as anything now.

I now declare this panic officially over.

MM

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 20:18:06 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

(what's the emoticon for expressing fear of God regarding use of neon
screwdrivers?)

Not recommended? I use one just to make sure the wires are dead. Even
though I've switched off the mains (all or a ring) with the lights on.

MM

John Rumm wrote:
On 20/04/2011 15:20, MM wrote:

Many thanks to everybody! I have installed a new transformer and it
works!!!!

(Still have to fit the mount back in the ceiling, but I wanted to
impart the good news first.)

In the Spalding area I had the devil's own job to locate replacement
transformers. Eventually I was pointed to the industrial estate and
an

Any electrical supplier would have had something suitable - the brand
is not really relevant from a compatibility PoV.

Odd thing is that EPH is actually a Edmundsons. Sometimes when Edmundsons
want to make a presence in a town they often buy out an independent
wholesalers and use both names (eg Barnsley has Edmundson - Waterhouse). Not
relevant to MMs problem, just a bit of info on Edmundsons


electrical wholesalers name of EPH. They sold me a JCC JC4030, which
the retailer assured me was plug-compatible with the Aurora AU-E60.
Anyway, I switched off the mains lighting circuit for downstairs rear
and also tested the junction box pins (out of the hole in the
ceiling) with a neon test screwdriver. Then I carefully fitted the
new

(what's the emoticon for expressing fear of God regarding use of neon
screwdrivers?)

He USED what!

--
Adam

MM wrote:

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 20:18:06 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

neon screwdrivers

Not recommended?

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...r#The_Problems

John Rumm wrote:
On 20/04/2011 20:21, MM wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 20:18:06 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

(what's the emoticon for expressing fear of God regarding use of
neon screwdrivers?)

Not recommended? I use one just to make sure the wires are dead. Even
though I've switched off the mains (all or a ring) with the lights
on.

Well once all the lights have gone out (which you can take as a fairly
good indication the power is off) the screwdriver is unlikely to do
too much harm. However, don't trust them to tell you something is
either live or dead - they lie!

As there was only one T&E entering the JB I would have just turned the
lightswitch off.

--
Adam

John Rumm wrote:
On 20/04/2011 21:52, ARWadsworth wrote:
John wrote:
On 20/04/2011 20:21, MM wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 20:18:06 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

(what's the emoticon for expressing fear of God regarding use of
neon screwdrivers?)

Not recommended? I use one just to make sure the wires are dead.
Even though I've switched off the mains (all or a ring) with the
lights on.

Well once all the lights have gone out (which you can take as a
fairly good indication the power is off) the screwdriver is
unlikely to do too much harm. However, don't trust them to tell you
something is either live or dead - they lie!

As there was only one T&E entering the JB I would have just turned
the lightswitch off.

Let's hope it was not the apprentice deciding which wires to put the
switch in ;-)

I would not have worked at the house I was at the other day. LN reversal on
the CU tails!

I did get a call back later after fixing the problem as the boiler would not
fire up. However one of the thing about spending a night in the pub with
geoff is that (apart from drinking lots of beer) you learn stuff. And I was
given full details on LN reversals and boilers not firing up.

I always check with a volt stick if I am going to touch bare cables.

--
Adam

On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 20:30:02 +0100, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

John Rumm wrote:
On 20/04/2011 15:20, MM wrote:

Many thanks to everybody! I have installed a new transformer and it
works!!!!

(Still have to fit the mount back in the ceiling, but I wanted to
impart the good news first.)

In the Spalding area I had the devil's own job to locate replacement
transformers. Eventually I was pointed to the industrial estate and
an

Any electrical supplier would have had something suitable - the brand
is not really relevant from a compatibility PoV.

Odd thing is that EPH is actually a Edmundsons. Sometimes when Edmundsons
want to make a presence in a town they often buy out an independent
wholesalers and use both names (eg Barnsley has Edmundson - Waterhouse). Not
relevant to MMs problem, just a bit of info on Edmundsons


electrical wholesalers name of EPH. They sold me a JCC JC4030, which
the retailer assured me was plug-compatible with the Aurora AU-E60.
Anyway, I switched off the mains lighting circuit for downstairs rear
and also tested the junction box pins (out of the hole in the
ceiling) with a neon test screwdriver. Then I carefully fitted the
new

(what's the emoticon for expressing fear of God regarding use of neon
screwdrivers?)

He USED what!

I don't quite see why then the sheds sell those things (I have
collected three over the years) if not to test for live
wires/connections....

?

How *should* one make sure? (I do have a multimeter.)

MM

On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 01:07:20 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

On 21/04/2011 00:01, MM wrote:
On Wed, 20 Apr 2011 20:30:02 +0100, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:

John wrote:
On 20/04/2011 15:20, MM wrote:

(what's the emoticon for expressing fear of God regarding use of neon
screwdrivers?)

He USED what!

I don't quite see why then the sheds sell those things (I have
collected three over the years) if not to test for live
wires/connections....

Well they make ok screwdrivers...

How *should* one make sure? (I do have a multimeter.)

If you are doing much messing about with electrics then one of the non
contact volt sticks are quite good, e.g. :

http://cpc.farnell.com/fluke/1ac-ii/...tor/dp/IN04816

Ooh, blimey, that's expensive! Still, it looks really neat and, I
suppose, safety is paramount. Oh dear, I've already spent my pension
that is due to be paid as from August!

Old analogue multimeters will give a reliable indication of volts
present or not. Digital ones are sometimes to sensitive and can see
phantom volts when not actually there.

Mine's digital

MM

On Thu, 21 Apr 2011 01:07:20 +0100, John Rumm
wrote:

If you are doing much messing about with electrics then one of the non
contact volt sticks are quite good, e.g. :

http://cpc.farnell.com/fluke/1ac-ii/...tor/dp/IN04816

Would a similar product from Silverline also do the job?

http://www.headingonline.com/p-379-n...ne-675220.aspx

It's only £5.57 at Amazon, with free shipping.

MM