I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost impossible to
follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the cutting blade
just will not follow it. Within a few inches of starting a cut I find that
the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they all like
this?

--
Triff

On Mar 20, 7:52*am, "Triffid" wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost impossible to
follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the cutting blade
just will not follow it. *Within a few inches of starting a cut I find that
the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they all like
this?

--
Triff

http://groups.google.com/group/uk.d-...7d712e230b808#

wrote:
On Mar 20, 7:52 am, "Triffid" wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost
impossible to follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the
cutting blade just will not follow it. Within a few inches of
starting a cut I find that the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an
inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they
all like this?

--
Triff

http://groups.google.com/group/uk.d-...7d712e230b808#

Thanks for that. I can see that I'm just going to have to dig deep and buy a
decent quality product!

--
Triff

On Mar 20, 7:52*am, "Triffid" wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost impossible to
follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the cutting blade
just will not follow it. *Within a few inches of starting a cut I find that
the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they all like
this?

--
Triff

This often arises if you are pushing too hard on the blade and it
flexes. You probably need a sharp blade, one with coarser teeth or a
stiffer one. Are you using the correct blade for the material/material
thickness?

On 20/03/2011 09:23, harry wrote:
On Mar 20, 7:52 am, wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost impossible to
follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the cutting blade
just will not follow it. Within a few inches of starting a cut I find that
the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they all like
this?

--
Triff

This often arises if you are pushing too hard on the blade and it
flexes. You probably need a sharp blade, one with coarser teeth or a
stiffer one. Are you using the correct blade for the material/material
thickness?

I use a coarse blade for all woodworking. Certainly the best bet with an
underpowered jigsaw.

harry wrote:
On Mar 20, 7:52 am, "Triffid" wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost
impossible to follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the
cutting blade just will not follow it. Within a few inches of
starting a cut I find that the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an
inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they
all like this?

--
Triff

This often arises if you are pushing too hard on the blade and it
flexes. You probably need a sharp blade, one with coarser teeth or a
stiffer one. Are you using the correct blade for the material/material
thickness?

I was cutting through chipboard using the wood cutting blade that came with
the jig-saw.

--
Triff

On 20/03/2011 10:58, Triffid wrote:
harry wrote:
On Mar 20, 7:52 am, "Triffid" wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost
impossible to follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the
cutting blade just will not follow it. Within a few inches of
starting a cut I find that the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an
inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they
all like this?

--
Triff

This often arises if you are pushing too hard on the blade and it
flexes. You probably need a sharp blade, one with coarser teeth or a
stiffer one. Are you using the correct blade for the material/material
thickness?

I was cutting through chipboard using the wood cutting blade that came
with the jig-saw.


Which is likely to be medium/fine. I'd invest in a pack of the coarsest
blades you can find. The finish is perfectly good for most wood/sheet
materials.

On 20/03/2011 07:52, Triffid wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost impossible
to follow a cut line with it.

Quelle surprise Rodney :-)


There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the cutting
blade just will not follow it. Within a few inches of starting a cut I
find that the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw

Yup!

- or are they all
like this?

Nope!

http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-43...aw-prod656300/

Or;

http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-43...aw-prod656297/

I have the first one. "Its a jigsaw Jim, but not as we know it!.

Cuts 38mm worktop with ease, follows the line perfectly, leaves a dead
straight edge - a joy to use.





--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 20/03/2011 07:52, Triffid wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost
impossible to follow a cut line with it.

Quelle surprise Rodney :-)


There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the
cutting blade just will not follow it. Within a few inches of
starting a cut I find that the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an
inch off from the line. Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty
jig-saw

Yup!

- or are they all
like this?

Nope!

http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-43...aw-prod656300/

Or;

http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-43...aw-prod656297/

I have the first one. "Its a jigsaw Jim, but not as we know it!.

Cuts 38mm worktop with ease, follows the line perfectly, leaves a dead
straight edge - a joy to use.

Clearly a quality product - but not sure that I would use it that often to
justify spending that amount of money!

--
Triff

On 20/03/2011 11:00, Triffid wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 20/03/2011 07:52, Triffid wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost
impossible to follow a cut line with it.

Quelle surprise Rodney :-)


There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the
cutting blade just will not follow it. Within a few inches of
starting a cut I find that the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an
inch off from the line. Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty
jig-saw

Yup!

- or are they all
like this?

Nope!

http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-43...aw-prod656300/

Or;

http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-43...aw-prod656297/

I have the first one. "Its a jigsaw Jim, but not as we know it!.

Cuts 38mm worktop with ease, follows the line perfectly, leaves a dead
straight edge - a joy to use.

Clearly a quality product - but not sure that I would use it that often
to justify spending that amount of money!

Alas jigsaws are one of those power tools where you have to spend a lot
to get one that actually works properly.

I'm lucky in that I can justify it as a business expense, but I know
what you mean.

One of the joys of doing DIY for a living is that you can justify buying
the right tools - even to SWMBO :-)



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 20/03/2011 11:00, Triffid wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
On 20/03/2011 07:52, Triffid wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost
impossible to follow a cut line with it.

Quelle surprise Rodney :-)


There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the
cutting blade just will not follow it. Within a few inches of
starting a cut I find that the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an
inch off from the line. Is this just because it is a cheap and
nasty jig-saw

Yup!

- or are they all
like this?

Nope!

http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-43...aw-prod656300/

Or;

http://www.axminster.co.uk/makita-43...aw-prod656297/

I have the first one. "Its a jigsaw Jim, but not as we know it!.

Cuts 38mm worktop with ease, follows the line perfectly, leaves a
dead straight edge - a joy to use.

Clearly a quality product - but not sure that I would use it that
often to justify spending that amount of money!

Alas jigsaws are one of those power tools where you have to spend a
lot to get one that actually works properly.

I'm lucky in that I can justify it as a business expense, but I know
what you mean.

One of the joys of doing DIY for a living is that you can justify
buying the right tools - even to SWMBO :-)

Yes, it's a bit of a catch-22 situation isn't it? If you simply do DIY for
yourself then you only need your power tools occasionally. As a result you
tend not to purchase top-quality expensive tools because you cannot justify
the expenditure. In general there isn't a problem because the less expensive
tools are good enough for occasional use - but this Challenge jig saw is as
good as useless!

--
Triff

Triffid wrote:


Yes, it's a bit of a catch-22 situation isn't it? If you simply do DIY for
yourself then you only need your power tools occasionally. As a result you
tend not to purchase top-quality expensive tools because you cannot
justify the expenditure. In general there isn't a problem because the less
expensive tools are good enough for occasional use - but this Challenge
jig saw is as good as useless!


+1

My tools:

My green bosch was adequate (had for a long time) - basically reliable but
not 100% true. Pressed steel plate and the blade does not cut exactly
perpendicar - but it is good enough for odd work and fine for flooring.
Joinery it is very much on the limit and I will get a better saw for kichen
fitting.

Drill - blue bosch - stronger and generally good enough for all manner of
DIY

Circular saw (aquired not bought) - green bosch. I hate it. It has no reall
controllability, but I personally don't like hand held circulars anyway -
rather use a good jigsaw unless it's rough lumbar chopping.

Metabo combi mitre saw: Pretty good for DIY - handles 2x4. Needed extensive
recalibration out of the box (all over the place) but now does a decent job
of joinery and skirting. If I was doing this for aliving, I'd want a much
better one though.

Dremel - cheapy Maplin thing - fine for what I want.


That's just an illustration - so much depends on the expected use. I bought
for a house refurb - so I was lucky in that I had some idea of the expected
use of each tool and bought accordingly expect those I already had.

--
Tim Watts

On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 07:52:40 -0000, Triffid wrote:

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they all
like this?

Probably doesn't help but how one uses/applies pressure/guides the
saw is critcal to how well the saw will follow an line.

See Harry's post, it only takes a *very* slight twist on the blade
for it to take off in strange direction. So ignore the marker on the
sole plate and let the saw blade go in the direction it wants to for
a straight line. This may mean that the body of the saw has to "crab"
down the work piece.

Twist is only one factor sideways pressure will cause the blade to
bend through the thickness of the work piece producing a cut that
drifts out of square.

Cheap tools are OK you just have to get used to their quirks and
spend more time adjusting and setting up.

--
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 07:52:40 -0000, Triffid wrote:

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they
all like this?

Probably doesn't help but how one uses/applies pressure/guides the
saw is critcal to how well the saw will follow an line.

See Harry's post, it only takes a *very* slight twist on the blade
for it to take off in strange direction. So ignore the marker on the
sole plate and let the saw blade go in the direction it wants to for
a straight line. This may mean that the body of the saw has to "crab"
down the work piece.

Twist is only one factor sideways pressure will cause the blade to
bend through the thickness of the work piece producing a cut that
drifts out of square.

Cheap tools are OK you just have to get used to their quirks and
spend more time adjusting and setting up.

One problem with mine is that if I try to watch the blade rather than the
marker on the sole plate, I have to position my line of sight forward of the
cut line and I end up with a ton of sawdust being thrown up into my eyes!
I'll just have to wear goggles.

--
Triff

On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 17:58:32 +0000, Triffid wrote:

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 07:52:40 -0000, Triffid wrote:

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they all
like this?

Probably doesn't help but how one uses/applies pressure/guides the saw
is critcal to how well the saw will follow an line.

See Harry's post, it only takes a *very* slight twist on the blade for
it to take off in strange direction. So ignore the marker on the sole
plate and let the saw blade go in the direction it wants to for a
straight line. This may mean that the body of the saw has to "crab"
down the work piece.

Twist is only one factor sideways pressure will cause the blade to bend
through the thickness of the work piece producing a cut that drifts out
of square.

Cheap tools are OK you just have to get used to their quirks and spend
more time adjusting and setting up.

One problem with mine is that if I try to watch the blade rather than
the marker on the sole plate, I have to position my line of sight
forward of the cut line and I end up with a ton of sawdust being thrown
up into my eyes! I'll just have to wear goggles.

I wear goggles anyway. The risk of a wood chip, or (worse) a broken
blade, especially with only one eye left! .-)



--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

On Mar 20, 7:52*am, "Triffid" wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost impossible to
follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the cutting blade
just will not follow it. *Within a few inches of starting a cut I find that
the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they all like
this?

Now you know why. If you have to use it, you can at least make the
best of a bad job with 2 things:
1. be gentle with it, this minimises blade warp and direction change
2. steer it by rotating the tool round, dont even think about pushing
sideways.

If you cant justify a decent jigsaw, cheap circulars behave relatively
well, and are of course far faster than a jig.


NT

On Mar 20, 7:52*am, "Triffid" wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost impossible to
follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the cutting blade
just will not follow it. *Within a few inches of starting a cut I find that
the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they all like
this?

--
Triff

One of the things with jigsaws is how they go up and down. Some have a
up-and-down-and-combined-rocking-motion that helps them to cut better.
I expect the more expensive ones do this. It's a similarthing you do
whenusing a hand saw if you think about it. My present jigsaw cost a
tenner!

harry wrote:
On Mar 20, 7:52 am, "Triffid" wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost
impossible to follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the
cutting blade just will not follow it. Within a few inches of
starting a cut I find that the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an
inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they
all like this?

--
Triff

One of the things with jigsaws is how they go up and down. Some have a
up-and-down-and-combined-rocking-motion that helps them to cut better.
I expect the more expensive ones do this. It's a similarthing you do
whenusing a hand saw if you think about it. My present jigsaw cost a
tenner!

My Challenge jig saw either just goes up and down - or has a three position
knob for varying levels of 'rocking'. I suspect the problem is just that the
blade holder is not accurate and allows a bit of 'twist' from side to side -
which allows the blade to run off the cut line.

--
Triff

On Mar 20, 6:01*pm, "Triffid" wrote:
harry wrote:
On Mar 20, 7:52 am, "Triffid" wrote:
I have a 'Challenge' jig-saw (Argos brand) and find it almost
impossible to follow a cut line with it.

There is, of course, a 'pointer' on the bottom plate - but the
cutting blade just will not follow it. Within a few inches of
starting a cut I find that the blade can be as much as a 1/4 of an
inch off from the line.

Is this just because it is a cheap and nasty jig-saw - or are they
all like this?

--
Triff

One of the things with jigsaws is how they go up and down. Some have a
up-and-down-and-combined-rocking-motion that helps them to cut better.
I expect the more expensive ones do this. *It's a similarthing you do
whenusing a hand saw if you think about it. *My present jigsaw cost a
tenner!

My Challenge jig saw either just goes up and down - or has a three position
knob for varying levels of 'rocking'. I suspect the problem is just that the
blade holder is not accurate and allows a bit of 'twist' from side to side -
which allows the blade to run off the cut line.

Decent jigsaws have rollers that keep the blade in line lower down
than where the blade is held. I much prefer circular saws though, for
most jobs.


NT