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Default Knocking down walls

This weekend or next, I will be knocking down two internal block work
walls. One is not load-bearing, and the other used to be, but there is
now a steel doing the work.

I want to minimise the dust getting into the rest of the house, and
had thought of screening the work by fixing some kind of sheet floor
to ceiling, with battens, a couple of feet into the neighbouring
rooms, that form an L around the room I will be working in.

As I'm not well-equipped with old bed sheets, can anyone suggest what
I might use, by way of plastic sheeting or similar, and where I might
buy it at a reasonable cost?

Cheers
Richard
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Default Knocking down walls

geraldthehamster wrote:
This weekend or next, I will be knocking down two internal block work
walls. One is not load-bearing, and the other used to be, but there is
now a steel doing the work.

I want to minimise the dust getting into the rest of the house, and
had thought of screening the work by fixing some kind of sheet floor
to ceiling, with battens, a couple of feet into the neighbouring
rooms, that form an L around the room I will be working in.

As I'm not well-equipped with old bed sheets, can anyone suggest what
I might use, by way of plastic sheeting or similar, and where I might
buy it at a reasonable cost?


Not sure that sheeting makes much difference. Fine dust gets everywhere
sheeting or not..wait till you have grit blasters in..:-)


I think the best approach is do it slow and take out BIG chunks, and
maybe wet it all first.

DO NOT USE ANGLE GRINDERS!!

And don't use a Dyson to clear up, either. Filters will clog in picoseconds.

I have never found a solution to building dust, other than wait till the
job is done, and spend 50% more time cleaning up.




Cheers
Richard

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Default Knocking down walls

On Feb 9, 1:27*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:
geraldthehamster wrote:
This weekend or next, I will be knocking down two internal block work
walls. One is not load-bearing, and the other used to be, but there is
now a steel doing the work.


I want to minimise the dust getting into the rest of the house, and
had thought of screening the work by fixing some kind of sheet floor
to ceiling, with battens, a couple of feet into the neighbouring
rooms, that form an L around the room I will be working in.


As I'm not well-equipped with old bed sheets, can anyone suggest what
I might use, by way of plastic sheeting or similar, and where I might
buy it at a reasonable cost?


Not sure that sheeting makes much difference. Fine dust gets everywhere
sheeting or not..wait till you have grit blasters in..:-)

I think the best approach is do it slow and take out BIG chunks, and
maybe wet it all first.

DO NOT USE ANGLE GRINDERS!!

And don't use a Dyson to clear up, either. Filters will clog in picoseconds.

I have never found a solution to building dust, other than wait till the
job is done, and spend 50% more time cleaning up.



Cheers
Richard- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Yes, there's no way I will contain it all. I've already removed a
redundant wall between one of the neighbouring rooms and a former loo,
carefully, loosening each block at the mortar joints with a rotary
hammer and lifting it out, but the place still filled with dust, which
soon found its way past my casually nailed up dust sheets: a
combination of mortar dust and fragmenting plaster.

Unfortunately I will have to use a grinder to cut the 18 inch nib that
has to remain under one end of the steel, but I'll do that first,
while the room still has walls and a door.

I've now been to the Screwfix website and seen how (relatively) cheap
dust sheets are, so I might just go with those rather than fart about
looking for plastic. This time I'll fix securely to floor and ceiling
with battens, and just leave an overlapping door to get in and out.

I think SWBC (that's "Consulted") is resigned to mess, but there are
possible brownie points in mitigating it.

This isn't a job I'm looking forward to doing, particularly. The
enjoyable part of demolition is hitting things and making them fall
over, but this is going to be more carefully loosening and lifting
away.

Cheers
Richard

Cheers
Richard

Cheers
Richard
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Default Knocking down walls

On Feb 9, 1:33*pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
On Feb 9, 1:27*pm, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:





geraldthehamster wrote:
This weekend or next, I will be knocking down two internal block work
walls. One is not load-bearing, and the other used to be, but there is
now a steel doing the work.


I want to minimise the dust getting into the rest of the house, and
had thought of screening the work by fixing some kind of sheet floor
to ceiling, with battens, a couple of feet into the neighbouring
rooms, that form an L around the room I will be working in.


As I'm not well-equipped with old bed sheets, can anyone suggest what
I might use, by way of plastic sheeting or similar, and where I might
buy it at a reasonable cost?


Not sure that sheeting makes much difference. Fine dust gets everywhere
sheeting or not..wait till you have grit blasters in..:-)


I think the best approach is do it slow and take out BIG chunks, and
maybe wet it all first.


DO NOT USE ANGLE GRINDERS!!


And don't use a Dyson to clear up, either. Filters will clog in picoseconds.


I have never found a solution to building dust, other than wait till the
job is done, and spend 50% more time cleaning up.


Cheers
Richard- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Yes, there's no way I will contain it all. I've already removed a
redundant wall between one of the neighbouring rooms and a former loo,
carefully, loosening each block at the mortar joints with a rotary
hammer and lifting it out, but the place still filled with dust, which
soon found its way past my casually nailed up dust sheets: a
combination of mortar dust and fragmenting plaster.

Unfortunately I will have to use a grinder to cut the 18 inch nib that
has to remain under one end of the steel, but I'll do that first,
while the room still has walls and a door.

I've now been to the Screwfix website and seen how (relatively) cheap
dust sheets are, so I might just go with those rather than fart about
looking for plastic. This time I'll fix securely to floor and ceiling
with battens, and just leave an overlapping door to get in and out.

I think SWBC (that's "Consulted") is resigned to mess, but there are
possible brownie points in mitigating it.

This isn't a job I'm looking forward to doing, particularly. The
enjoyable part of demolition is hitting things and making them fall
over, but this is going to be more carefully loosening and lifting
away.

Cheers
Richard

Cheers
Richard

Cheers
Richard- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


This is all render and skim as well, so there's also concrete dust.

Cheers
Richard
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Default Knocking down walls

"geraldthehamster" wrote

geraldthehamster wrote:
This weekend or next, I will be knocking down two internal block work
walls. One is not load-bearing, and the other used to be, but there is
now a steel doing the work.


I want to minimise the dust getting into the rest of the house, and
had thought of screening the work by fixing some kind of sheet floor
to ceiling, with battens, a couple of feet into the neighbouring
rooms, that form an L around the room I will be working in.


As I'm not well-equipped with old bed sheets, can anyone suggest what
I might use, by way of plastic sheeting or similar, and where I might
buy it at a reasonable cost?


Not sure that sheeting makes much difference. Fine dust gets everywhere
sheeting or not..wait till you have grit blasters in..:-)


I think the best approach is do it slow and take out BIG chunks, and
maybe wet it all first.


DO NOT USE ANGLE GRINDERS!!


And don't use a Dyson to clear up, either. Filters will clog in
picoseconds.


I have never found a solution to building dust, other than wait till the
job is done, and spend 50% more time cleaning up.


Cheers
Richard- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Yes, there's no way I will contain it all. I've already removed a
redundant wall between one of the neighbouring rooms and a former loo,
carefully, loosening each block at the mortar joints with a rotary
hammer and lifting it out, but the place still filled with dust, which
soon found its way past my casually nailed up dust sheets: a
combination of mortar dust and fragmenting plaster.

Unfortunately I will have to use a grinder to cut the 18 inch nib that
has to remain under one end of the steel, but I'll do that first,
while the room still has walls and a door.

I've now been to the Screwfix website and seen how (relatively) cheap
dust sheets are, so I might just go with those rather than fart about
looking for plastic. This time I'll fix securely to floor and ceiling
with battens, and just leave an overlapping door to get in and out.

I think SWBC (that's "Consulted") is resigned to mess, but there are
possible brownie points in mitigating it.

This isn't a job I'm looking forward to doing, particularly. The
enjoyable part of demolition is hitting things and making them fall
over, but this is going to be more carefully loosening and lifting
away.

Cheers
Richard

Cheers
Richard

Cheers
Richard- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


This is all render and skim as well, so there's also concrete dust.

Cheers
Richard



I've finished most of the really dusty jobs in this house, but I was told
(once I'd finished) that dampening the dust sheets helped considerably -
maybe use like a kitchen spray to lightly mist the surface of the sheet(s)
before starting.

Phil


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Default Knocking down walls

geraldthehamster ) wibbled on Wednesday 09 February
2011 13:33:


Yes, there's no way I will contain it all. I've already removed a
redundant wall between one of the neighbouring rooms and a former loo,
carefully, loosening each block at the mortar joints with a rotary
hammer and lifting it out, but the place still filled with dust, which
soon found its way past my casually nailed up dust sheets: a
combination of mortar dust and fragmenting plaster.

Unfortunately I will have to use a grinder to cut the 18 inch nib that
has to remain under one end of the steel, but I'll do that first,
while the room still has walls and a door.

I've now been to the Screwfix website and seen how (relatively) cheap
dust sheets are, so I might just go with those rather than fart about
looking for plastic. This time I'll fix securely to floor and ceiling
with battens, and just leave an overlapping door to get in and out.


I would go with plastic - B&Q sell *very* thin large area sheets for
"painting". Thye are in fact useless for painitng as they either slip on the
floor or tear.

But for taping up an opening they are great as long as you can avoid
touching them.

For an angle grinder inside, you really do want to seal off the area with
plastic, taped 100% all the way round including floor.

As the plastic is light, double width masking tape is generally strong
enough.



--
Tim Watts
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Default Knocking down walls

On Feb 9, 1:53*pm, "TheScullster" wrote:
"geraldthehamster" wrote





geraldthehamster wrote:
This weekend or next, I will be knocking down two internal block work
walls. One is not load-bearing, and the other used to be, but there is
now a steel doing the work.


I want to minimise the dust getting into the rest of the house, and
had thought of screening the work by fixing some kind of sheet floor
to ceiling, with battens, a couple of feet into the neighbouring
rooms, that form an L around the room I will be working in.


As I'm not well-equipped with old bed sheets, can anyone suggest what
I might use, by way of plastic sheeting or similar, and where I might
buy it at a reasonable cost?


Not sure that sheeting makes much difference. Fine dust gets everywhere
sheeting or not..wait till you have grit blasters in..:-)


I think the best approach is do it slow and take out BIG chunks, and
maybe wet it all first.


DO NOT USE ANGLE GRINDERS!!


And don't use a Dyson to clear up, either. Filters will clog in
picoseconds.


I have never found a solution to building dust, other than wait till the
job is done, and spend 50% more time cleaning up.


Cheers
Richard- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Yes, there's no way I will contain it all. I've already removed a
redundant wall between one of the neighbouring rooms and a former loo,
carefully, loosening each block at the mortar joints with a rotary
hammer and lifting it out, but the place still filled with dust, which
soon found its way past my casually nailed up dust sheets: a
combination of mortar dust and fragmenting plaster.


Unfortunately I will have to use a grinder to cut the 18 inch nib that
has to remain under one end of the steel, but I'll do that first,
while the room still has walls and a door.


I've now been to the Screwfix website and seen how (relatively) cheap
dust sheets are, so I might just go with those rather than fart about
looking for plastic. This time I'll fix securely to floor and ceiling
with battens, and just leave an overlapping door to get in and out.


I think SWBC (that's "Consulted") is resigned to mess, but there are
possible brownie points in mitigating it.


This isn't a job I'm looking forward to doing, particularly. The
enjoyable part of demolition is hitting things and making them fall
over, but this is going to be more carefully loosening and lifting
away.


Cheers
Richard


Cheers
Richard


Cheers
Richard- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


This is all render and skim as well, so there's also concrete dust.

Cheers
Richard

I've finished most of the really dusty jobs in this house, but I was told
(once I'd finished) that dampening the dust sheets helped considerably -
maybe use like a kitchen spray to lightly mist the surface of the sheet(s)
before starting.

Phil- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Thanks, I'll try that.

Cheers
Richard
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Default Knocking down walls

In article 26a06a3b-f058-4a27-b682-8b0a8329ed40
@q2g2000pre.googlegroups.com, says...
Cheers
Richard

Cheers
Richard

Cheers
Richard


Three cheers for Richard!

--
Skipweasel - never knowingly understood.
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Default Knocking down walls

On Wed, 09 Feb 2011 14:01:56 +0000, Tim Watts gently
dipped his quill in the best Quink that money could buy:

geraldthehamster ) wibbled on Wednesday 09 February
2011 13:33:


Yes, there's no way I will contain it all. I've already removed a
redundant wall between one of the neighbouring rooms and a former loo,
carefully, loosening each block at the mortar joints with a rotary
hammer and lifting it out, but the place still filled with dust, which
soon found its way past my casually nailed up dust sheets: a
combination of mortar dust and fragmenting plaster.

Unfortunately I will have to use a grinder to cut the 18 inch nib that
has to remain under one end of the steel, but I'll do that first,
while the room still has walls and a door.

I've now been to the Screwfix website and seen how (relatively) cheap
dust sheets are, so I might just go with those rather than fart about
looking for plastic. This time I'll fix securely to floor and ceiling
with battens, and just leave an overlapping door to get in and out.


I would go with plastic - B&Q sell *very* thin large area sheets for
"painting". Thye are in fact useless for painitng as they either slip on the
floor or tear.

But for taping up an opening they are great as long as you can avoid
touching them.

For an angle grinder inside, you really do want to seal off the area with
plastic, taped 100% all the way round including floor.

As the plastic is light, double width masking tape is generally strong
enough.


Dulux decorator centres (and others no doubt) sell the thin plastic.
I use it for decorating and place under dust sheets as they do not
contain heavy splashes.
The stronger stuff is the plastic builders lay under concrete ,, vis
screen ?

Mike P the 1st


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Default Knocking down walls

On 09/02/2011 13:53, TheScullster wrote:
I've finished most of the really dusty jobs in this house, but I was told
(once I'd finished) that dampening the dust sheets helped considerably -
maybe use like a kitchen spray to lightly mist the surface of the sheet(s)
before starting.


Actually it's very useful having one of those sprays to hand - not sure
about spraying the sheets, but certainly just spraying a fine mist
around the room at ceiling level is very effective at clearing the air
and bringing down dust quickly. Particularly useful if you want to
leave the dusty area and want to avoid contaminating the rest of the house!

David
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Default Knocking down walls

Oh, the shame. SWMBO (that's "obeyed") has decided that she wants a
day of mess rather than a week of mess, so next week the walls will be
taken down quickly by (whisper it) a builder.

Cheers
Richard

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In message
,
geraldthehamster writes
Oh, the shame. SWMBO (that's "obeyed") has decided that she wants a
day of mess rather than a week of mess, so next week the walls will be
taken down quickly by (whisper it) a builder.

Even more reason to provide your own anti-dust precautions!
--
Ian
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Default Knocking down walls

On 10 Feb, 12:31, Ian Jackson
wrote:
In message
,
geraldthehamster writesOh, the shame. SWMBO (that's "obeyed") has decided that she wants a
day of mess rather than a week of mess, so next week the walls will be
taken down quickly by (whisper it) a builder.


Even more reason to provide your own anti-dust precautions!
--
Ian


Absolutely.

Cheers
Richard


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Default Knocking down walls

Skipweasel wrote:
[dust sheets]
FreeCycle and ask nicely.


Visit the local charity shop. If they don't have anything on display, ask
if they have anything out the back (and say you'll pay: they get some
pennies from the rag-man for unsaleable stuff so they often get sniffy if
they think you want stuff for free)

Theo
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Default Knocking down walls

On Feb 9, 1:22*pm, geraldthehamster wrote:
This weekend or next, I will be knocking down two internal block work
walls. One is not load-bearing, and the other used to be, but there is
now a steel doing the work.

I want to minimise the dust getting into the rest of the house, and
had thought of screening the work by fixing some kind of sheet floor
to ceiling, with battens, a couple of feet into the neighbouring
rooms, that form an L around the room I will be working in.

As I'm not well-equipped with old bed sheets, can anyone suggest what
I might use, by way of plastic sheeting or similar, and where I might
buy it at a reasonable cost?

Cheers
Richard


I had this very problem, and fixed a cyclone vac nozzle to the sds
drill depth gauge (not a dyson). Magic, problem solved. Saved ages in
cleanup.


NT
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Default Knocking down walls

In article ,
The Natural Philosopher writes:
geraldthehamster wrote:
This weekend or next, I will be knocking down two internal block work
walls. One is not load-bearing, and the other used to be, but there is
now a steel doing the work.

I want to minimise the dust getting into the rest of the house, and
had thought of screening the work by fixing some kind of sheet floor
to ceiling, with battens, a couple of feet into the neighbouring
rooms, that form an L around the room I will be working in.

As I'm not well-equipped with old bed sheets, can anyone suggest what
I might use, by way of plastic sheeting or similar, and where I might
buy it at a reasonable cost?


Not sure that sheeting makes much difference. Fine dust gets everywhere
sheeting or not..wait till you have grit blasters in..:-)


I think the best approach is do it slow and take out BIG chunks, and
maybe wet it all first.

DO NOT USE ANGLE GRINDERS!!

And don't use a Dyson to clear up, either. Filters will clog in picoseconds.


Not so. The very first job my DC04 was used for 10+ years ago was
sucking up all the plaster/mortar/brick dust from demolishing a
wall. You get about 6 canisters full of dust before the filter
needs a rinse, and that's only because it's too tempting to over-
fill the canister each time so there's no space left in the cyclone.

The things to watch out for a
The dust will sand-blast the inside of the canister so it's not
clear anymore. That has no effect on operation, but if you care
about the appearance, you might be concerned.
The weight of a canister full of brick/plaster/mortar dust is
much more than the handle was designed for, so don't carry it
with just the plastic handle. (I haven't broken it, and it may
be stronger than it looks, but I don't chance it.)

This machine is now 10+ years old, and has only been used for
DIY (although it wasn't originally bought for that at all).
No dust has made it through to the post motor hepa filter,
which is a testament to how well they filter.

I have never found a solution to building dust, other than wait till the
job is done, and spend 50% more time cleaning up.


--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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Default Knocking down walls

On 11 Feb, 16:56, (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
In article ,
* * * * The Natural Philosopher writes:





geraldthehamster wrote:
This weekend or next, I will be knocking down two internal block work
walls. One is not load-bearing, and the other used to be, but there is
now a steel doing the work.


I want to minimise the dust getting into the rest of the house, and
had thought of screening the work by fixing some kind of sheet floor
to ceiling, with battens, a couple of feet into the neighbouring
rooms, that form an L around the room I will be working in.


As I'm not well-equipped with old bed sheets, can anyone suggest what
I might use, by way of plastic sheeting or similar, and where I might
buy it at a reasonable cost?


Not sure that sheeting makes much difference. Fine dust gets everywhere
sheeting or not..wait till you have grit blasters in..:-)


I think the best approach is do it slow and take out BIG chunks, and
maybe wet it all first.


DO NOT USE ANGLE GRINDERS!!


And don't use a Dyson to clear up, either. Filters will clog in picoseconds.


Not so. The very first job my DC04 was used for 10+ years ago was
sucking up all the plaster/mortar/brick dust from demolishing a
wall. You get about 6 canisters full of dust before the filter
needs a rinse, and that's only because it's too tempting to over-
fill the canister each time so there's no space left in the cyclone.

The things to watch out for a
The dust will sand-blast the inside of the canister so it's not
clear anymore. That has no effect on operation, but if you care
about the appearance, you might be concerned.
The weight of a canister full of brick/plaster/mortar dust is
much more than the handle was designed for, so don't carry it
with just the plastic handle. (I haven't broken it, and it may
be stronger than it looks, but I don't chance it.)

This machine is now 10+ years old, and has only been used for
DIY (although it wasn't originally bought for that at all).
No dust has made it through to the post motor hepa filter,
which is a testament to how well they filter.

I have never found a solution to building dust, other than wait till the
job is done, and spend 50% more time cleaning up.


--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


I vote for Henry. My Henry is getting on for 20 years old and has been
used for building dust in large quantities of up to 10mm chunks and
all domestic uses and is still doing fine. Oh, the handle rattles.

Cheers
Richard
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