Hi,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally found
in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise. I've loads
of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

My `Two Ronnies' hardware store only goes down to 2A, the local radio/TV
repair shop doesn't have them. Screwfix and Maplin only go down to 3A.

I only need one. Pointers welcome.

Cheers,

--
Ralph Corderoy. http://inputplus.co.uk/ralph/ http://troff.org/

Ralph Corderoy wrote:
Hi,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally found
in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise. I've loads
of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

http://www.electricalsfast.com/acatalog/fuses.html has 1A fuses listed
on their site.

--
Chris Green )

In article ,
Ralph Corderoy wrote:
I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally found
in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise. I've loads
of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

The plug fuse is only there to protect the cable. The appliance, if it
needs protecting with a 1 amp fuse, should be done separately with the
correct fuse for the job - perhaps fast blow etc. And the smallest mains
cable you'll find is 3 amps.

--
*Hard work pays off in the future. Laziness pays off now *

Dave Plowman London SW 12
RIP Acorn

In article ,
(Ralph Corderoy) writes:
Hi,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally found
in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise. I've loads
of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

For use in appliance plugs, the BS1362 cartidge fuses have to be
marked ASTA (Association of Short-circuit Test Authorities, IIRC).
This is a tiny diamond symbol with the letters overprinted on it,
usually illegably on something that small. Whilst BS1362 cartidge
fuses are available in 1A ratings, I never saw any approved by ASTA,
which means they would fail a PAT test.

What is the application where it's used, and does it claim a 1A fuse
is required? Normally they are used for protecting appliance flexs,
and there's no flex which needs anything as low as 1A (unless it was
a very long length).

--
Andrew Gabriel

Hi Chris,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally
found in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise.
I've loads of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

http://www.electricalsfast.com/acatalog/fuses.html has 1A fuses listed
on their site.

Thanks, they do. But the GBP3.50 postage is a bit steep given the
item's price.

Thanks anyway.

--
Ralph Corderoy. http://inputplus.co.uk/ralph/ http://troff.org/

In article ,
says...
In article ,
(Ralph Corderoy) writes:
Hi,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally found
in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise. I've loads
of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

What is the application where it's used, and does it claim a 1A fuse
is required? Normally they are used for protecting appliance flexs,
and there's no flex which needs anything as low as 1A (unless it was
a very long length).


Shaver adapter plug perhaps?

Peter

Peter Watson wrote:
In article ,
says...
In article ,
(Ralph Corderoy) writes:
Hi,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally
found in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise.
I've loads of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

What is the application where it's used, and does it claim a 1A fuse
is required? Normally they are used for protecting appliance flexs,
and there's no flex which needs anything as low as 1A (unless it was
a very long length).


Shaver adapter plug perhaps?

Mine has a fuse physically smaller than a normal 13A plug top one.

In message , Ralph Corderoy
writes
Hi,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally found
in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise. I've loads
of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

My `Two Ronnies' hardware store only goes down to 2A, the local radio/TV
repair shop doesn't have them. Screwfix and Maplin only go down to 3A.

I only need one. Pointers welcome.

RS ?
--
geoff

In message , BillR
writes
Peter Watson wrote:
In article ,
says...
In article ,
(Ralph Corderoy) writes:
Hi,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally
found in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise.
I've loads of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

What is the application where it's used, and does it claim a 1A fuse
is required? Normally they are used for protecting appliance flexs,
and there's no flex which needs anything as low as 1A (unless it was
a very long length).


Shaver adapter plug perhaps?

Mine has a fuse physically smaller than a normal 13A plug top one.


20 mm ?
--
geoff

I work b&q and we stock 1A fuses they are slightly smaller in size than plug
type fuses
"BillR" wrote in message
...
Peter Watson wrote:
In article ,
says...
In article ,
(Ralph Corderoy) writes:
Hi,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally
found in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise.
I've loads of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

What is the application where it's used, and does it claim a 1A fuse
is required? Normally they are used for protecting appliance flexs,
and there's no flex which needs anything as low as 1A (unless it was
a very long length).


Shaver adapter plug perhaps?

Mine has a fuse physically smaller than a normal 13A plug top one.

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message , BillR
writes
Peter Watson wrote:
In article ,
says...
In article ,
(Ralph Corderoy) writes:
Hi,

I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally
found in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise.
I've loads of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

What is the application where it's used, and does it claim a 1A fuse
is required? Normally they are used for protecting appliance flexs,
and there's no flex which needs anything as low as 1A (unless it was
a very long length).


Shaver adapter plug perhaps?

Mine has a fuse physically smaller than a normal 13A plug top one.


20 mm ?
--
geoff

try here

http://test.nangle.co.uk/acatalog/index.htm

Hi Andrew,

(Ralph Corderoy) writes:
I'm trying to replace a 1 amp cartridge fuse, the 1" type normally
found in appliance plugs and fused switches if that's imprecise.
I've loads of 2A, 3A, 5A, and 13A but the one that's blown is 1A.

For use in appliance plugs, the BS1362 cartidge fuses have to be
marked ASTA (Association of Short-circuit Test Authorities, IIRC).
This is a tiny diamond symbol with the letters overprinted on it,
usually illegably on something that small. Whilst BS1362 cartidge
fuses are available in 1A ratings, I never saw any approved by ASTA,
which means they would fail a PAT test.

Sorry for not replying sooner but it had to initially wait until I had a
chance to search through the bin in which I disposed of the fuse having
tested it was duff :-) Naturally, I couldn't find it so it must have
been empty before I grabbed the contents for later searching.

What is the application where it's used, and does it claim a 1A fuse
is required? Normally they are used for protecting appliance flexs,
and there's no flex which needs anything as low as 1A (unless it was a
very long length).

There's a MCB for the garage supply labelled

hager ________
B16 |__6000__|
230/400 V~ |__3__|
MT 116 450116

The thick cable from this appears through the garage wall where it goes
to a single wall socket. Next to that socket on the wall is a fused
switch and cables join the two within the pattresses. From the switch a
thinner cable runs to a 100W bulb ceiling light and from there to a
second switch at the other end of the garage; it's wired in series.

The 1A fuse has lasted since the house was new in 1994. What's a PAT
test and did they exist back then? I've inspected the thinner cable and
it has no markings that I can see, unlike, e.g. CAT5 cable.

Cheers,

--
Ralph Corderoy. http://inputplus.co.uk/ralph/ http://troff.org/

In uk.d-i-y, Ralph Corderoy wrote:

There's a MCB for the garage supply labelled

hager ________
B16 |__6000__|
230/400 V~ |__3__|
MT 116 450116

OK, that's a normal 16A quick-response MCB to protect the garage circuit;
and from your description, the garage lighting is teed off from that circuit
through a fused connection unit. In which case, replacing the 1A cartridge
fuse which was there with a 3A one will be fine. The fixed wiring you
describe for the lights will be at worst 1mmsq, maybe 1.5mmsq; a 3A fuse
is quite sensitive enough to protect that wiring, and they're a lot
easier to get hold of than 1A jobbies. (Which are available at places
like RS and Farnell; but there's no need to monkey with such exotica.)

The 1A fuse has lasted since the house was new in 1994. What's a PAT
test and did they exist back then? I've inspected the thinner cable and
it has no markings that I can see, unlike, e.g. CAT5 cable.

PAT = Portable Appliance Testing. Depending on your worldview, either a
major contribution to electrical safety in practice, or a scam for
barely-trained monkeys to connect cables and appliances up to testing
kit they don't understand and produce Sistificates. (Truth, as always, is
between these extremes: it's lawyer-driven overkill for most office
environments, and probably not done stringently enough in toolhire and
construction-site environments. Oh well...) Only relevance of PAT testing
to your query is that an appliance whose flex was so wimpy as to really
need a 1A rather than a 3A fuse would fail PAT testing, were it carried
out by a sensible and competent person who considers visual inspection
and assessment of the conditions of use to be 90% of the job... as opposed
to the "plug it in and see the needle stay in the Green Zone" tribe...

HTH, Stefek

Hi Stefek,

OK, that's a normal 16A quick-response MCB to protect the garage
circuit; and from your description, the garage lighting is teed off
from that circuit through a fused connection unit. In which case,
replacing the 1A cartridge fuse which was there with a 3A one will be
fine.

Thanks for letting me know. I'm running with a 2A at the moment as that
was the closest I could buy.

PAT = Portable Appliance Testing. Depending on your worldview, either
a major contribution to electrical safety in practice, or a scam for
barely-trained monkeys to connect cables and appliances up to testing
kit they don't understand and produce Sistificates.

Oh, yep, I know what you mean. They put lots of `tested' stickers on
things. I didn't realise that would apply to a fused switch on the wall
compared to a `portable' TV or kettle.

I guess the builder spec'd the fuse at 1A and, since they were building
lots of garages, had a lot of 1A fuses bought in.

Cheers,

--
Ralph Corderoy. http://inputplus.co.uk/ralph/ http://troff.org/

In uk.d-i-y, Ralph Corderoy wrote:

Thanks for letting me know. I'm running with a 2A at the moment as that
was the closest I could buy.

That'll be fine too.

PAT = Portable Appliance Testing. Depending on your worldview, either
a major contribution to electrical safety in practice, or a scam for
barely-trained monkeys to connect cables and appliances up to testing
kit they don't understand and produce Sistificates.

Oh, yep, I know what you mean. They put lots of `tested' stickers on
things. I didn't realise that would apply to a fused switch on the wall
compared to a `portable' TV or kettle.

It doesn't apply; think of it as a mildly pink herring for the porpoises
of this discussion ;-) Yes, a supply of green "TESTED: date RETEST:
date (many more mouths to feed Guv'nor)" stickers is essential for
the PATter...

I guess the builder spec'd the fuse at 1A and, since they were building
lots of garages, had a lot of 1A fuses bought in.

From the description you gave, it sounds to me much more like a (perfectly
competent) d-i-y job by someone who was a little paranoid and had access
to a source of 1A fuses, than something the original builder would have
done. Could be, too, that whoever did the wiring put in a 3A ("normal")
plug-top-style fuse in the FCU, and that it was later replaced by the
paranoid...

Cheers, Stefek