Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.

sm_jamieson wrote:

Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?

None.
Get what fits/what you want.
Some people like a line of 500 doors, others are not too bothered if it
goes 500/400/400/300 etc.

Alan.


--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?

Not that I can see.

Bear in mind though, that assembling 4 x 500 units takes a lot longer than
assembling 2 x 1000.

Wickes take away range is good value.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
...
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?

I think 600s (as in 2 x 300 doors) look nicer, perhaps it's just me

tim

On Oct 31, 9:21*am, sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.

I fitted 1000mm Wickes units recently and had to add extra legs (well,
lengths of baton) to stop them sagging in the middle. Still, I'm sure
the 1000s work out considerably cheaper than a couple of 500s.

sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.

Have you mentioned this to the wife:-)?
--
Adam

On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 05:58:40 -0700 (PDT), mike wrote:


I fitted 1000mm Wickes units recently and had to add extra legs (well,
lengths of baton) to stop them sagging in the middle. Still, I'm sure
the 1000s work out considerably cheaper than a couple of 500s.

Well worth doing, as is supporting the front edge of the shelf on the central
divider. Anything to push back the suggestion of replacement. ;-)

Andy C

On 31/10/2010 12:25, tim.... wrote:
wrote in message
...
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?

I think 600s (as in 2 x 300 doors) look nicer, perhaps it's just me

tim



Smaller doors are more practical. Less of an obstruction when they're open

sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.
None whatsoever but bear in mind the spaces for appliances
(dishwashers, ranges etc are mostly 600 in domestic kitchens)
Probably why the kitchen people seem to work in 600 blocks.

On 31 Oct, 13:02, "ARWadsworth"
wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.

Have you mentioned this to the wife:-)?
--
No.
(!)
Simon.

On 31 Oct, 14:57, F Murtz wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.

* None whatsoever but bear in mind the spaces for appliances
(dishwashers, ranges etc are mostly 600 in domestic kitchens)
Probably why the kitchen people seem to work in 600 blocks.

I guess the main use of the 1000 unit is to fit a double or 1.5 bowl
sink unit.
I'll probably use 600 for the rest, and fill in the ends with whatever
is closest
or infill panels.
Simon.

sm_jamieson wrote:
On 31 Oct, 14:57, F wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.

None whatsoever but bear in mind the spaces for appliances
(dishwashers, ranges etc are mostly 600 in domestic kitchens)
Probably why the kitchen people seem to work in 600 blocks.

I guess the main use of the 1000 unit is to fit a double or 1.5 bowl
sink unit.
I'll probably use 600 for the rest, and fill in the ends with whatever
is closest
or infill panels.
Simon.


You can if you wish, straddle two 600 units with your two bowl sink.
You just try to get both drains in the one unit and form the sides to
the shape of the overlapping bowl.

sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.
makes a rather too large drawer.

In message , tim....
writes

"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
...
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?

I think 600s (as in 2 x 300 doors) look nicer, perhaps it's just me


300 doors? surely a 600 unit would have 1x600 door normally. A 1000
unit will have 2 x 500.
--
Chris French

In message , F Murtz
writes
sm_jamieson wrote:
On 31 Oct, 14:57, F wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.

None whatsoever but bear in mind the spaces for appliances
(dishwashers, ranges etc are mostly 600 in domestic kitchens)
Probably why the kitchen people seem to work in 600 blocks.

I guess the main use of the 1000 unit is to fit a double or 1.5 bowl
sink unit.
I'll probably use 600 for the rest, and fill in the ends with whatever
is closest
or infill panels.
Simon.


You can if you wish, straddle two 600 units with your two bowl sink.
You just try to get both drains in the one unit and form the sides to
the shape of the overlapping bowl.

Our kitchen here (about 30 years old) has a 1200 unit for the sink
--
Chris French

On 01/11/2010 11:03, chris French wrote:
In message , tim....
writes

"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
...
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?

I think 600s (as in 2 x 300 doors) look nicer, perhaps it's just me


300 doors? surely a 600 unit would have 1x600 door normally. A 1000 unit
will have 2 x 500.

IIRC you can fit 2 x 300 doors to a 600 unit but, as there's no central
division in the carcass, there's nothing for the doors to close against
and you're aware of the gap between them.

In message , stuart noble
writes
On 01/11/2010 11:03, chris French wrote:
In message , tim....
writes

"sm_jamieson" wrote in message
...
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?

I think 600s (as in 2 x 300 doors) look nicer, perhaps it's just me


300 doors? surely a 600 unit would have 1x600 door normally. A 1000 unit
will have 2 x 500.

IIRC you can fit 2 x 300 doors to a 600 unit but, as there's no central
division in the carcass, there's nothing for the doors to close against
and you're aware of the gap between them.

Oh yes, I'm sure you can fit 2x300 doors, but I'd not say it was the
norm. I'd find it rather annoying I think (unless pushed for space, eg
a narrow galley kitchen
--
Chris French

On 01/11/2010 12:44, chris French wrote:

IIRC you can fit 2 x 300 doors to a 600 unit but, as there's no
central division in the carcass, there's nothing for the doors to
close against and you're aware of the gap between them.

Oh yes, I'm sure you can fit 2x300 doors, but I'd not say it was the
norm. I'd find it rather annoying I think (unless pushed for space, eg a
narrow galley kitchen

Owing to a cockup by the designer we have a pair of 300 doors on a 600
unit, although all the rest have either 500 or 600 doors.

You don't notice the gap. They close against the top and bottom. And
you don't bang your head on them coming around the corner!

Andy

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.
makes a rather too large drawer.

Most kitchen base units these days don't have drawers, just full height
doors - unless you buy a specific drawer unit.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 31/10/2010 09:42, The Medway Handyman wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?

Not that I can see.

Bear in mind though, that assembling 4 x 500 units takes a lot longer than
assembling 2 x 1000.

Not if you get ready-assembled stuff from Howden's (if you're able to
blag a trade account from them)

Wickes take away range is good value.

Howden's certainly worked out the cheapest supplier for me last time I
looked - also very versatile as you can easily buy any spare
doors/components etc for 'customisations' at the same time.

David

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.
makes a rather too large drawer.

Most kitchen base units these days don't have drawers, just full height
doors - unless you buy a specific drawer unit.

Is that because of a decision of the "developer" or availability at the
wholesaler?

IME a kitchen without drawers is unfit for purpose but this doesn't stop
developers doing it (and of fitting out a 3 bed family house with only
enough space for a single under top fridge or freezer).

tim

On 02/11/2010 11:10, tim.... wrote:
"The Medway wrote in message
...
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.
makes a rather too large drawer.

Most kitchen base units these days don't have drawers, just full height
doors - unless you buy a specific drawer unit.

Is that because of a decision of the "developer" or availability at the
wholesaler?

IME a kitchen without drawers is unfit for purpose but this doesn't stop
developers doing it (and of fitting out a 3 bed family house with only
enough space for a single under top fridge or freezer).

tim




Certainly with B&Q, you buy the carcass plus a drawer pack or a door
pack. Ample stocks of both last time I looked.

On Nov 2, 12:41*am, "The Medway Handyman" davidno-spam-
wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.
makes a rather too large drawer.

By that token the doors would be a bit of a problem too.


Most kitchen base units these days don't have drawers, just full height
doors - unless you buy a specific drawer unit.

Not IMHE.

More to the point, in answer to TNP, a 1000 base unit with drawers
will often have two 500mm drawers ratyher than one 1000mm drawer.

MBQ

tim.... wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message ...
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.
makes a rather too large drawer.

Most kitchen base units these days don't have drawers, just full
height doors - unless you buy a specific drawer unit.

Is that because of a decision of the "developer" or availability at
the wholesaler?

I don't buy from a wholesaler, if asked I'll supply & fit Wickes take away.
None of their base unit have a drawer, just a full height door - apparently
to make it easier to see & access the cupboard :-)


IME a kitchen without drawers is unfit for purpose but this doesn't
stop developers doing it (and of fitting out a 3 bed family house
with only enough space for a single under top fridge or freezer).

But you can use a drawer unit, so the kitchen will have drawers.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


tim

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
tim.... wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message ...
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
sm_jamieson wrote:
Not fitted a kitchen for ages. Are there any general principles to
selecting 1000 or 600 base units apart from achieving the overall
length you are after ?
For example, any reason not to go for all 1000 units ?
Cheers,
Simon.
makes a rather too large drawer.

Most kitchen base units these days don't have drawers, just full
height doors - unless you buy a specific drawer unit.

Is that because of a decision of the "developer" or availability at
the wholesaler?

I don't buy from a wholesaler, if asked I'll supply & fit Wickes take
away. None of their base unit have a drawer, just a full height door -
apparently to make it easier to see & access the cupboard :-)


IME a kitchen without drawers is unfit for purpose but this doesn't
stop developers doing it (and of fitting out a 3 bed family house
with only enough space for a single under top fridge or freezer).

So that's one shop I wont be buying a new kitchen from :-(

IME the top part of the cupboard remains empty if it isn't used as a drawer
unit.



But you can use a drawer unit, so the kitchen will have drawers.


I know, but it takes up useful space whereas a top drawer doesn't

tim