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Default mould on rafters in loft

Hi All,

There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.

In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.

This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.

However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.

Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?

Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ftmould1-1.jpg

Thanks, Tom
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On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:
Hi All,

There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.

In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.

This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.

However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?

Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.

I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.

Jim K
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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:
Hi All,

There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.

In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.

This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.

However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.

Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?

Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm...

Thanks, Tom


brush it off and watch for it returning. You may have a leak somewhere
despite it not being a cheap job
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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:

Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?

Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.

I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.

Jim K


Thanks - it seems the area I can see (old timbers, storage area, under
the eaves - the low triangular shaped area that can only be used for
storage) is dry - or at least I think it is. The tyvek under tile
"felt" is I thought breathable and there are roof air vents to assist
ventilation further.

Yes there is a shower room at the other end of this loft conversion
(with its own window and ceiling vent with fan - but the fan is not on
often) and there are down-lighters in the loft ceiling and shower
room.

I thought the whole area was quite well ventilated, but I suppose you
can never be that sure of this.

I don't think the mould affects the new roof timbers but as they are a
lighter colour it could be more difficult to spot. Also what is
happening in sloping part (and top for that matter) would be very
difficult to see without specialist equipment.

I take the point about the chemicals and involving a pro firm - I have
found a can of Rentokill woodworm and dry rot treatment I could you
use.

I take the point also about brushing off the timbers and see if the
mould reappears - I could vacuum the timbers with a stiff brush
attachment to get the mould off.

Thanks for the help.
Tom
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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 30/10/10 14:05, cynic wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:14, wrote:
Hi All,

There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.

In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.

This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.

However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.

Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?

Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm...

Thanks, Tom


brush it off and watch for it returning. You may have a leak somewhere
despite it not being a cheap job


from the pattern of the dampness
you should be able to work out
whether its from condensation inside,
or a leak outside...
I'm guessing a leak outside
dribbling down...



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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 30 Oct, 14:25, Tom wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:



On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:


Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.


I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.


Jim K


Thanks - it seems the area I can see (old timbers, storage area, under
the eaves - the low triangular shaped area that can only be used for
storage) is dry - or at least I think it is. The tyvek under tile
"felt" is I thought breathable and there are roof air vents to assist
ventilation further.


so where/what is your pic of?
are there more downlighters in the ceilings of the rooms below the
loft (i.e. what used to be your "top" floor)?

Yes there is a shower room at the other end of this loft conversion
(with its own window and ceiling vent with fan - but the fan is not on
often) and there are down-lighters in the loft ceiling and shower
room.


Why isn't the fan used much?

If you take a bulb out of a downlighter - can you see (with a torch)
the rafters etc above through the hole?
If so how does it look mouldwise?

(common "cheap" downlighters create a "chimney effect" allowing air -
(possibly warm, moist air) up past the bulbs into the roofspace - this
moisture will then condense on the coldest surfaces, and mould or
worse will tend to grow)

I thought the whole area was quite well ventilated, but I suppose you
can never be that sure of this.

I don't think the mould affects the new roof timbers but as they are a
lighter colour it could be more difficult to spot. Also what is
happening in sloping part (and top for that matter) would be very
difficult to see without specialist equipment.

I take the point about the chemicals and involving a pro firm - I have
found a can of Rentokill woodworm and dry rot treatment I could you
use.


that's probably as evil as they would splash about and a bit overkill
for now - google for pics of dry rot and see for yourself what it
looks like?

I take the point also about brushing off the timbers and see if the
mould reappears - I could vacuum the timbers with a stiff brush
attachment to get the mould off.


if it does recur you could try household mould killer (for bathrooms
etc) i.e. a mild bleach solution - these are sold in trigger sprays
but maybe be best "hoomemade" and scrubbed in/onto the timbers *after*
the esixting mould has been brushed away.

Jim K
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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 30/10/2010 13:14, Tom wrote:
Hi All,

There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.

In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.

This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.

However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.

Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?

Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ftmould1-1.jpg

Thanks, Tom


I had similar mould just after a conversion, including a reroof, on my
house. The engineer said it was due to lack of ventilation. He got the
builder to install some airbricks and checked that there was a free flow
of air. The mould went away and hasn't come back.

Peter Scott
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On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:
Hi All,

There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.

In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.

This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.

However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.

Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?

Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm...

Thanks, Tom


These roof timbers should have been pressure treated timber and there
should be no trace of anything like this however wet it got.. When new
this timber is green coloured though it can fade a bit with age. The
deadly chemicals would prevent moulds and fungus of any sort..
Whoever did this job has ripped you off by installing non-pressure
treated timber. Crooks.
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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:

Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?

Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.

I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.

Jim K


Dry rot needs moisture to start it. But once in, it can get the
moisture it needs from the air. DRY ROT see.
Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber
out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides.
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On 30 Oct, 15:38, harry wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:



Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm...


Thanks, Tom


These roof timbers should have been pressure treated timber and there
should be no trace of anything like this however wet it got.. When new
this timber is green coloured though it can fade a bit with age. The
deadly chemicals would prevent moulds and fungus of any sort..
Whoever did this job has ripped you off by installing non-pressure
treated timber. Crooks.


is that a legal/ Building Regs requirement? only my slate laths are
treated on my roof....

Jim K


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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:



On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:


Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.


I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.


Jim K


Dry rot needs moisture to start it. But once in, it can get the
moisture it needs from the air. DRY ROT see.
Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber
out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides.


oh here we go:- my asterixes

"The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is
commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry
rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like
all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi-
nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness
is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi
plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either
the fungus ceases to grow and dies."

Jim K
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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 30/10/2010 16:42, Jim K wrote:
On 30 Oct, 15:42, wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim wrote:



On 30 Oct, 13:14, wrote:


Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.


I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.


Jim K


Dry rot needs moisture to start it. But once in, it can get the
moisture it needs from the air. DRY ROT see.
Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber
out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides.


oh here we go:- my asterixes

"The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is
commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry
rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like
all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi-
nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness
is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi
plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either
the fungus ceases to grow and dies."

Jim K


IME, if the conditions are right for rot, you'll get it, regardless of
whether the timber has been treated. Chemicals might delay it, but
that's all.
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On Oct 30, 1:14*pm, Tom wrote:
Hi All,

There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.

In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.

This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.

However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.

Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?

Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800..photobucket.com/albums/...010/loft/loftm...

Thanks, Tom


Hopefully its just some dried out surface mould residue - if so its
harmless. If its growing though, it will need sorting out. This means
taking measures to prevent the leak or condensation happening, it does
NOT mean calling a company to apply a wood preservative - something
that wont stop it and that you could do yourself for next to nothing.


NT
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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 30 Oct, 15:42, Jim K wrote:
On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote:





On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:


On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:


Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.


I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.


Jim K


Dry rot needs moisture to start it. *But once in, it can get the
moisture it needs from the air. *DRY ROT see.
Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber
out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides.


oh here we go:- my asterixes

"The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is
commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry
rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like
all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi-
nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness
is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi
plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either
the fungus ceases to grow and dies."

Jim K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Different idea here.
http://www.safeguardeurope.com/applications/dry_rot.php

I have seen dry rot in central heated buildings.
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On 30 Oct, 19:12, Tabby wrote:
On Oct 30, 1:14*pm, Tom wrote:





Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm...


Thanks, Tom


Hopefully its just some dried out surface mould residue - if so its
harmless. If its growing though, it will need sorting out. This means
taking measures to prevent the leak or condensation happening, it does
NOT mean calling a company to apply a wood preservative - something
that wont stop it and that you could do yourself for next to nothing.

NT- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Yes, you can DIY. It's a horrible job though especially in confined
spaces.
You have to spray as otherwise you can't get the preserver/killer into
cracks and joints.


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On 31 Oct, 06:44, harry wrote:
On 30 Oct, 15:42, Jim K wrote:



On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote:


On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:


On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:


Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.


I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.


Jim K


Dry rot needs moisture to start it. But once in, it can get the
moisture it needs from the air. DRY ROT see.
Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber
out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides.


oh here we go:- my asterixes


"The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is
commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry
rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like
all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi-
nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness
is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi
plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either
the fungus ceases to grow and dies."


Jim K- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Different idea here.http://www.safeguardeurope.com/applications/dry_rot.php


where?

I have seen dry rot in central heated buildings.


wet ones presumably?

Jim K
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On 31 Oct, 09:11, Jim K wrote:
On 31 Oct, 06:44, harry wrote:





On 30 Oct, 15:42, Jim K wrote:


On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote:


On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:


On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:


Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.


I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.


Jim K


Dry rot needs moisture to start it. *But once in, it can get the
moisture it needs from the air. *DRY ROT see.
Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber
out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides..


oh here we go:- my asterixes


"The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is
commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry
rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like
all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi-
nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness
is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi
plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either
the fungus ceases to grow and dies."


Jim K- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Different idea here.http://www.safeguardeurope.com/appli...s/dry_rot..php


where?

I have seen dry rot in central heated buildings.


wet ones presumably?

Jim K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


No, warm, dry and inhabited.
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Default mould on rafters in loft

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Tom saying
something like:

I take the point also about brushing off the timbers and see if the
mould reappears - I could vacuum the timbers with a stiff brush
attachment to get the mould off.


Wear a mask.
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Default mould on rafters in loft

On Oct 31, 6:47*am, harry wrote:
On 30 Oct, 19:12, Tabby wrote:



On Oct 30, 1:14*pm, Tom wrote:


Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm...


Thanks, Tom


Hopefully its just some dried out surface mould residue - if so its
harmless. If its growing though, it will need sorting out. This means
taking measures to prevent the leak or condensation happening, it does
NOT mean calling a company to apply a wood preservative - something
that wont stop it and that you could do yourself for next to nothing.


NT- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Yes, you can DIY. It's a horrible job though especially in confined
spaces.


The point is that ot doesn't need doing at all.

You have to spray as otherwise you can't get the preserver/killer into
cracks and joints.


No, you have to sort out the ventilation.

MBQ


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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 31 Oct, 19:30, harry wrote:
On 31 Oct, 09:11, Jim K wrote:





On 31 Oct, 06:44, harry wrote:


On 30 Oct, 15:42, Jim K wrote:


On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote:


On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:


On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:


Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010..


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion?
are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"?


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going.


I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical
laden solution- beware.


Jim K


Dry rot needs moisture to start it. *But once in, it can get the
moisture it needs from the air. *DRY ROT see.
Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber
out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides.


oh here we go:- my asterixes


"The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is
commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry
rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like
all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi-
nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness
is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi
plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either
the fungus ceases to grow and dies."


Jim K- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Different idea here.http://www.safeguardeurope.com/applications/dry_rot.php


where?


I have seen dry rot in central heated buildings.


wet ones presumably?


Jim K- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


No, warm, dry and inhabited.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Brighton Pavilion for example. Rampant dry rot which is kept under
control by carefully maintaining the correct temperature and humidity.
The alternative
is rip apart the fabric of the building to 'cure' - which is obviously
not an option in a listed building.


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Default mould on rafters in loft

On 02/11/2010 10:52, Man at B&Q wrote:
On Oct 31, 6:47 am, wrote:
On 30 Oct, 19:12, wrote:



On Oct 30, 1:14 pm, wrote:


Hi All,


There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was
done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.


In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell
when the roofers failed to keep the rain out.


This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been
added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the
spring. This was not a cheap job.


However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole
loft becoming bone dry during the summer.


Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a
professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a
look?


Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm...


Thanks, Tom


Hopefully its just some dried out surface mould residue - if so its
harmless. If its growing though, it will need sorting out. This means
taking measures to prevent the leak or condensation happening, it does
NOT mean calling a company to apply a wood preservative - something
that wont stop it and that you could do yourself for next to nothing.


NT- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Yes, you can DIY. It's a horrible job though especially in confined
spaces.


The point is that ot doesn't need doing at all.

You have to spray as otherwise you can't get the preserver/killer into
cracks and joints.


No, you have to sort out the ventilation.

MBQ



Hooray! I thought my message hadn't got through (see above). Yes, it is
almost certainly a ventilation problem.

Peter Scott
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