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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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mould on rafters in loft
Hi All,
There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at: http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ftmould1-1.jpg Thanks, Tom |
#2
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:
Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K |
#3
Posted to uk.d-i-y
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:
Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm... Thanks, Tom brush it off and watch for it returning. You may have a leak somewhere despite it not being a cheap job |
#4
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K Thanks - it seems the area I can see (old timbers, storage area, under the eaves - the low triangular shaped area that can only be used for storage) is dry - or at least I think it is. The tyvek under tile "felt" is I thought breathable and there are roof air vents to assist ventilation further. Yes there is a shower room at the other end of this loft conversion (with its own window and ceiling vent with fan - but the fan is not on often) and there are down-lighters in the loft ceiling and shower room. I thought the whole area was quite well ventilated, but I suppose you can never be that sure of this. I don't think the mould affects the new roof timbers but as they are a lighter colour it could be more difficult to spot. Also what is happening in sloping part (and top for that matter) would be very difficult to see without specialist equipment. I take the point about the chemicals and involving a pro firm - I have found a can of Rentokill woodworm and dry rot treatment I could you use. I take the point also about brushing off the timbers and see if the mould reappears - I could vacuum the timbers with a stiff brush attachment to get the mould off. Thanks for the help. Tom |
#5
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30/10/10 14:05, cynic wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:14, wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm... Thanks, Tom brush it off and watch for it returning. You may have a leak somewhere despite it not being a cheap job from the pattern of the dampness you should be able to work out whether its from condensation inside, or a leak outside... I'm guessing a leak outside dribbling down... |
#6
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 14:25, Tom wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K Thanks - it seems the area I can see (old timbers, storage area, under the eaves - the low triangular shaped area that can only be used for storage) is dry - or at least I think it is. The tyvek under tile "felt" is I thought breathable and there are roof air vents to assist ventilation further. so where/what is your pic of? are there more downlighters in the ceilings of the rooms below the loft (i.e. what used to be your "top" floor)? Yes there is a shower room at the other end of this loft conversion (with its own window and ceiling vent with fan - but the fan is not on often) and there are down-lighters in the loft ceiling and shower room. Why isn't the fan used much? If you take a bulb out of a downlighter - can you see (with a torch) the rafters etc above through the hole? If so how does it look mouldwise? (common "cheap" downlighters create a "chimney effect" allowing air - (possibly warm, moist air) up past the bulbs into the roofspace - this moisture will then condense on the coldest surfaces, and mould or worse will tend to grow) I thought the whole area was quite well ventilated, but I suppose you can never be that sure of this. I don't think the mould affects the new roof timbers but as they are a lighter colour it could be more difficult to spot. Also what is happening in sloping part (and top for that matter) would be very difficult to see without specialist equipment. I take the point about the chemicals and involving a pro firm - I have found a can of Rentokill woodworm and dry rot treatment I could you use. that's probably as evil as they would splash about and a bit overkill for now - google for pics of dry rot and see for yourself what it looks like? I take the point also about brushing off the timbers and see if the mould reappears - I could vacuum the timbers with a stiff brush attachment to get the mould off. if it does recur you could try household mould killer (for bathrooms etc) i.e. a mild bleach solution - these are sold in trigger sprays but maybe be best "hoomemade" and scrubbed in/onto the timbers *after* the esixting mould has been brushed away. Jim K |
#7
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30/10/2010 13:14, Tom wrote:
Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at: http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ftmould1-1.jpg Thanks, Tom I had similar mould just after a conversion, including a reroof, on my house. The engineer said it was due to lack of ventilation. He got the builder to install some airbricks and checked that there was a free flow of air. The mould went away and hasn't come back. Peter Scott |
#8
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote:
Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm... Thanks, Tom These roof timbers should have been pressure treated timber and there should be no trace of anything like this however wet it got.. When new this timber is green coloured though it can fade a bit with age. The deadly chemicals would prevent moulds and fungus of any sort.. Whoever did this job has ripped you off by installing non-pressure treated timber. Crooks. |
#9
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K Dry rot needs moisture to start it. But once in, it can get the moisture it needs from the air. DRY ROT see. Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides. |
#10
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 15:38, harry wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm... Thanks, Tom These roof timbers should have been pressure treated timber and there should be no trace of anything like this however wet it got.. When new this timber is green coloured though it can fade a bit with age. The deadly chemicals would prevent moulds and fungus of any sort.. Whoever did this job has ripped you off by installing non-pressure treated timber. Crooks. is that a legal/ Building Regs requirement? only my slate laths are treated on my roof.... Jim K |
#11
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote:
On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K Dry rot needs moisture to start it. But once in, it can get the moisture it needs from the air. DRY ROT see. Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides. oh here we go:- my asterixes "The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi- nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either the fungus ceases to grow and dies." Jim K |
#12
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30/10/2010 16:42, Jim K wrote:
On 30 Oct, 15:42, wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:14, wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K Dry rot needs moisture to start it. But once in, it can get the moisture it needs from the air. DRY ROT see. Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides. oh here we go:- my asterixes "The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi- nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either the fungus ceases to grow and dies." Jim K IME, if the conditions are right for rot, you'll get it, regardless of whether the timber has been treated. Chemicals might delay it, but that's all. |
#13
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mould on rafters in loft
On Oct 30, 1:14*pm, Tom wrote:
Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800..photobucket.com/albums/...010/loft/loftm... Thanks, Tom Hopefully its just some dried out surface mould residue - if so its harmless. If its growing though, it will need sorting out. This means taking measures to prevent the leak or condensation happening, it does NOT mean calling a company to apply a wood preservative - something that wont stop it and that you could do yourself for next to nothing. NT |
#14
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 15:42, Jim K wrote:
On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K Dry rot needs moisture to start it. *But once in, it can get the moisture it needs from the air. *DRY ROT see. Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides. oh here we go:- my asterixes "The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi- nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either the fungus ceases to grow and dies." Jim K- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Different idea here. http://www.safeguardeurope.com/applications/dry_rot.php I have seen dry rot in central heated buildings. |
#15
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mould on rafters in loft
On 30 Oct, 19:12, Tabby wrote:
On Oct 30, 1:14*pm, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm... Thanks, Tom Hopefully its just some dried out surface mould residue - if so its harmless. If its growing though, it will need sorting out. This means taking measures to prevent the leak or condensation happening, it does NOT mean calling a company to apply a wood preservative - something that wont stop it and that you could do yourself for next to nothing. NT- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, you can DIY. It's a horrible job though especially in confined spaces. You have to spray as otherwise you can't get the preserver/killer into cracks and joints. |
#16
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mould on rafters in loft
On 31 Oct, 06:44, harry wrote:
On 30 Oct, 15:42, Jim K wrote: On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K Dry rot needs moisture to start it. But once in, it can get the moisture it needs from the air. DRY ROT see. Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides. oh here we go:- my asterixes "The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi- nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either the fungus ceases to grow and dies." Jim K- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Different idea here.http://www.safeguardeurope.com/applications/dry_rot.php where? I have seen dry rot in central heated buildings. wet ones presumably? Jim K |
#17
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mould on rafters in loft
On 31 Oct, 09:11, Jim K wrote:
On 31 Oct, 06:44, harry wrote: On 30 Oct, 15:42, Jim K wrote: On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K Dry rot needs moisture to start it. *But once in, it can get the moisture it needs from the air. *DRY ROT see. Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides.. oh here we go:- my asterixes "The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi- nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either the fungus ceases to grow and dies." Jim K- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Different idea here.http://www.safeguardeurope.com/appli...s/dry_rot..php where? I have seen dry rot in central heated buildings. wet ones presumably? Jim K- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - No, warm, dry and inhabited. |
#18
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mould on rafters in loft
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Tom saying something like: I take the point also about brushing off the timbers and see if the mould reappears - I could vacuum the timbers with a stiff brush attachment to get the mould off. Wear a mask. |
#19
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mould on rafters in loft
On Oct 31, 6:47*am, harry wrote:
On 30 Oct, 19:12, Tabby wrote: On Oct 30, 1:14*pm, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm... Thanks, Tom Hopefully its just some dried out surface mould residue - if so its harmless. If its growing though, it will need sorting out. This means taking measures to prevent the leak or condensation happening, it does NOT mean calling a company to apply a wood preservative - something that wont stop it and that you could do yourself for next to nothing. NT- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, you can DIY. It's a horrible job though especially in confined spaces. The point is that ot doesn't need doing at all. You have to spray as otherwise you can't get the preserver/killer into cracks and joints. No, you have to sort out the ventilation. MBQ |
#20
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mould on rafters in loft
On 31 Oct, 19:30, harry wrote:
On 31 Oct, 09:11, Jim K wrote: On 31 Oct, 06:44, harry wrote: On 30 Oct, 15:42, Jim K wrote: On 30 Oct, 15:42, harry wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:28, Jim K wrote: On 30 Oct, 13:14, Tom wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010.. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. is there a shower room or bathroom in the conversion? are there downlights in the loft "ceilings"? Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? funnily enough, dry rot needs moisture to start and keep going. I would suspect any pofesshunall will sell you some sort of chemical laden solution- beware. Jim K Dry rot needs moisture to start it. *But once in, it can get the moisture it needs from the air. *DRY ROT see. Once established it can only be got rid of by cutting all the timber out and treating the whole area with very nasty chemical fungicides. oh here we go:- my asterixes "The wood destroying fungus, Serpula lacrymans, is commonly known as dry rot. However, the name ‘dry rot’ might be considered rather inappropriate since like all wood destroying fungi it *requires water for germi- nation, growth and survival.* Indeed, water/dampness is the fundamental need of all wood destroying fungi plus, of course, a food source (wood); without either the fungus ceases to grow and dies." Jim K- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Different idea here.http://www.safeguardeurope.com/applications/dry_rot.php where? I have seen dry rot in central heated buildings. wet ones presumably? Jim K- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - No, warm, dry and inhabited.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Brighton Pavilion for example. Rampant dry rot which is kept under control by carefully maintaining the correct temperature and humidity. The alternative is rip apart the fabric of the building to 'cure' - which is obviously not an option in a listed building. |
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mould on rafters in loft
On 02/11/2010 10:52, Man at B&Q wrote:
On Oct 31, 6:47 am, wrote: On 30 Oct, 19:12, wrote: On Oct 30, 1:14 pm, wrote: Hi All, There is mould on the rafters of my loft after a loft conversion was done by a loft company and roofer in late 2009 and early 2010. In November 2009 the loft did get quite wet during the very wet spell when the roofers failed to keep the rain out. This meant it took ages to dry out as "breathable" under-felt had been added beneath new tiles. And the loft area was not heated until the spring. This was not a cheap job. However there is still some mould on the rafters - despite the whole loft becoming bone dry during the summer. Is this a problem? I am concerned about dry rot. Should I get a professional around like Rentokill or other professional top take a look? Please see a photo of the mould as it is now (30 Oct 2010) at:http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...010/loft/loftm... Thanks, Tom Hopefully its just some dried out surface mould residue - if so its harmless. If its growing though, it will need sorting out. This means taking measures to prevent the leak or condensation happening, it does NOT mean calling a company to apply a wood preservative - something that wont stop it and that you could do yourself for next to nothing. NT- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, you can DIY. It's a horrible job though especially in confined spaces. The point is that ot doesn't need doing at all. You have to spray as otherwise you can't get the preserver/killer into cracks and joints. No, you have to sort out the ventilation. MBQ Hooray! I thought my message hadn't got through (see above). Yes, it is almost certainly a ventilation problem. Peter Scott |
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