I have 2 cat 5 cables that run from the kitchen to my patch panel.

The cables came loose from a window frame and got steached when
somebody opened a window.

I cut off the first 12 feet of the cables, including the bad bit and
fiited new between the socket in the kitchen and a pair of krone style
joiners which connect to the original wires

I have a cat5 tester and almost had it ready to role but I' have three
wires that are not connected.

I have re-made the joints at the joiners and and the sockets a couple
of times but still cant find the break. Ive also punched down all the
Krone fittings

Is there a tecnique to trace the break to the original or new wiring.

I dont fancy putting RJ45's on the old wires as its a bit brittle and
under the eaves

All i,ve got is a multimeter.

Help and direction appreciated


Parts

In article ,
scribeth thus
I have 2 cat 5 cables that run from the kitchen to my patch panel.

The cables came loose from a window frame and got steached when
somebody opened a window.

I cut off the first 12 feet of the cables, including the bad bit and
fiited new between the socket in the kitchen and a pair of krone style
joiners which connect to the original wires

I have a cat5 tester and almost had it ready to role but I' have three
wires that are not connected.

I have re-made the joints at the joiners and and the sockets a couple
of times but still cant find the break. Ive also punched down all the
Krone fittings

Is there a tecnique to trace the break to the original or new wiring.

I dont fancy putting RJ45's on the old wires as its a bit brittle and
under the eaves

All i,ve got is a multimeter.

Help and direction appreciated


Parts


I suspect its pulled apart somewhere else along the line and if it were
that case you'd need a TDR to find it which is something most people
don't have..

However if you have Two decent pairs working then use those for carrying
the signal only the Orange and Green pairs are used for normal 10/100
ethernet use.

You can find out which pairs are OK by doing a simple Ohms test with a
meter .Just short say the Green and Green/White at one end with a bit of
wire then check for continuity on the other end you can also do a check
from each conductor to each other to see if you have any shorts which
sometimes happen when cables have been pulled..

So if say you have a decent Blue pair and the Greens U/S then substitute
the Blue for the Green. Done it before and its worked fine...

Don't use a Green and a Blue wire for instance to make a pair, it might
measure OK but you won't get much of a signal down it!.

Course if its Gigabit or Power over ethernet anywhere then that won't
work and you prolly end up replacing the complete length..
--
Tony Sayer

On Oct 22, 5:23*pm, wrote:
I have 2 cat 5 cables that run from the kitchen to my patch panel.

The cables came loose from a window frame and got steached *when
somebody opened a window.

I cut off the first 12 feet of the cables, including the bad bit and
fiited new between the socket in the kitchen and a pair of krone style
joiners which connect to the original wires

I have a cat5 tester and almost had it ready to role but I' have three
wires that are not connected.

I have re-made the joints at the joiners and and the sockets a couple
of times but still cant find the break. Ive also punched down all the
Krone fittings

Is there a tecnique to trace the break to the original *or new wiring.

I dont fancy putting RJ45's on the old wires as its a bit brittle and
under the eaves

All i,ve got is a multimeter.

Help and direction appreciated

Parts

Divide & conquer. Separate the lengths of cable anywhere you can to
narrow it down. Thats about all you can do with a nothing but
multimeter.

To locate the break, one of the easiest devices is a capacitance
meter. Just measure cable capacitance at each end, and capacitance is
proportional to the lemngth of connceted/unbroken cable. Its simple to
make a C meter if you've got basic electronic skills, or you can use a
sig gen, multimeter and simple filter to do the same.


NT

"tony sayer" wrote in message
...
In article ,
scribeth thus
I have 2 cat 5 cables that run from the kitchen to my patch panel.

The cables came loose from a window frame and got steached when
somebody opened a window.

I cut off the first 12 feet of the cables, including the bad bit and
fiited new between the socket in the kitchen and a pair of krone style
joiners which connect to the original wires

I have a cat5 tester and almost had it ready to role but I' have three
wires that are not connected.

I have re-made the joints at the joiners and and the sockets a couple
of times but still cant find the break. Ive also punched down all the
Krone fittings

Is there a tecnique to trace the break to the original or new wiring.

I dont fancy putting RJ45's on the old wires as its a bit brittle and
under the eaves

All i,ve got is a multimeter.

Help and direction appreciated


Parts


I suspect its pulled apart somewhere else along the line and if it were
that case you'd need a TDR to find it which is something most people
don't have..

Really? LOL
You almost covered my screen with coffee with that one Tony

However if you have Two decent pairs working then use those for carrying
the signal only the Orange and Green pairs are used for normal 10/100
ethernet use.

You can find out which pairs are OK by doing a simple Ohms test with a
meter .Just short say the Green and Green/White at one end with a bit of
wire then check for continuity on the other end you can also do a check
from each conductor to each other to see if you have any shorts which
sometimes happen when cables have been pulled..

So if say you have a decent Blue pair and the Greens U/S then substitute
the Blue for the Green. Done it before and its worked fine...

Don't use a Green and a Blue wire for instance to make a pair, it might
measure OK but you won't get much of a signal down it!.

Course if its Gigabit or Power over ethernet anywhere then that won't
work and you prolly end up replacing the complete length..
--
Tony Sayer

I suspect its pulled apart somewhere else along the line and if it were
that case you'd need a TDR to find it which is something most people
don't have..

Really? LOL
You almost covered my screen with coffee with that one Tony


There is a rather simple design for one of they tho you do need a scope
to work it wiv...

Which I suspect more people might not have..

'ang on, perhaps with a PC soundcard;?..

--
Tony Sayer

On Oct 23, 12:14*pm, tony sayer wrote:
I suspect its pulled apart somewhere else along the line and if it were
that case you'd need a TDR to find it which is something most people
don't have..

Really? LOL
You almost covered my screen with coffee with that one Tony

There is a rather simple design for one of they tho you do need a scope
to work it wiv...

Which I suspect more people might not have..

'ang on, perhaps with a PC soundcard;?..

Would a 20kHz soundcard scope be enough?

The capacitance meter approach is real simple.


NT

In article
..com, Tabby scribeth thus
On Oct 23, 12:14*pm, tony sayer wrote:
I suspect its pulled apart somewhere else along the line and if it were
that case you'd need a TDR to find it which is something most people
don't have..

Really? LOL
You almost covered my screen with coffee with that one Tony

There is a rather simple design for one of they tho you do need a scope
to work it wiv...

Which I suspect more people might not have..

'ang on, perhaps with a PC soundcard;?..

Would a 20kHz soundcard scope be enough?

The capacitance meter approach is real simple.


NT

Have to get around to trying sometime..
--
Tony Sayer

On 23/10/2010 15:48, Tabby wrote:

Would a 20kHz soundcard scope be enough?

The capacitance meter approach is real simple.


NT

Ooh let's see... speed of transmission in copper is roughly half that of
light. But the signal needs to go out and back, so the transit time is
that of a signal going one way at a quarter that of light.

so 20kHz will give you a resolution pushing 4km.

Feel free to point out the error in my calculations!

Andy

On Oct 24, 8:44*pm, Andy Champ wrote:
On 23/10/2010 15:48, Tabby wrote:



Would a 20kHz soundcard scope be enough?

The capacitance meter approach is real simple.

NT

Ooh let's see... speed of transmission in copper is roughly half that of
light. *But the signal needs to go out and back, so the transit time is
that of a signal going one way at a quarter that of light.

so 20kHz will give you a resolution pushing 4km.

Feel free to point out the error in my calculations!

Andy


Well, the L & C of the cable should slow it down, but even so I can't
see a 20kHz scope being usable.


NT