We have a floor to lay on a heated screed.
We've chosen the floor and now need to know the best way of securing it.

The first choice was the floating principle, laying it on 2/3mm underlay
and gluing the tongues. A neighbour suggested that the natural movement
in the floor will eventually select the weakest seam and begin to leave
a more and more permanent gap there, an alternative expension joint perhaps.
I'm not keen on gluing the floor directly onto the screed.

The suppliers suggested I look at this stuff;
http://www.elastilon.com/uk/index.ph...tpage&Itemid=1

Has anyone experience of this?

--
R100RT
Aprilia Pegaso 650 IE "The Flying Mythos"
Formerly: James Captain, A10, C15, B25, Dnepr M16 solo, R80/7, R100RT
(green!)
www.davidhowardjeweller.co.uk

On 28/09/10 09:42, Jeweller wrote:
We have a floor to lay on a heated screed.
We've chosen the floor and now need to know the best way of securing it.

The first choice was the floating principle, laying it on 2/3mm underlay
and gluing the tongues. A neighbour suggested that the natural movement
in the floor will eventually select the weakest seam and begin to leave
a more and more permanent gap there, an alternative expension joint
perhaps.
I'm not keen on gluing the floor directly onto the screed.

The suppliers suggested I look at this stuff;
http://www.elastilon.com/uk/index.ph...tpage&Itemid=1

Has anyone experience of this?


I would have said floating was better given the heating cycles as long
as the floor is on an underlay that aids sliding.

I have heard of bonding it down, but no personal experience - all mine
are floating.

I disagree that glued joints are likely to fail if done well - I have
seen "clicky" laminate work some tiny gaps before over a year but my
clicky engineered floors have been fine over quite moderate temperature
cycling - and one of those is heavily weighted down with wardrobes and
shelves which does occasionally cause a very slight creak as you walk
over it but is seems to handle expansion and contraction OK generally.

--
Tim Watts

"Jeweller" wrote in message
...
We have a floor to lay on a heated screed.
We've chosen the floor and now need to know the best way of securing it.

The first choice was the floating principle, laying it on 2/3mm underlay
and gluing the tongues. A neighbour suggested that the natural movement in
the floor will eventually select the weakest seam and begin to leave a
more and more permanent gap there, an alternative expension joint perhaps.
I'm not keen on gluing the floor directly onto the screed.

The suppliers suggested I look at this stuff;
http://www.elastilon.com/uk/index.ph...tpage&Itemid=1


If you go to UK Self Build faq there is a significant section on UFH and
engineered flooring. (I wrote it)

I laid engineered Oak and very pleased with the product.

Your basic idea is correct ... use a 2/3mm closed cell underlay that has
good heat transmission properties (not insulating) .... lay floating, and
glue joints with quality PVA.
Good tip is to fix in 3 or 4 strips first and, making sure it's fully
scribed in and 2 & 3rd rows are absolutely square, clamp up with ratchet
clamps and leave overnight.

Space off wall by 10mm spacers and then fit rest ... I would advise no more
than about 1.2m depth each time before allowing glue to set.

Do NOT glue to screed... it will not suit UFH ...

I have had my Oak flooring down for 7 years .... no joints have opened,
sprung or warped .... that is the beauty of engineered flooring it is
dimensionally stable.
Also if I ever want to re-finish it will re-sand at least 3 times.

Happy to take any questions by PM ... as I don't read group every day.


p.s. If you want a cheap set of ratchet clamps let me know ... finished with
mine.