I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

harry wrote:
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

Christ where did you get all that bull**** from?

On 4 Sep, 17:33, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
harry wrote:
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
They are very volatile. *When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. *When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

Christ where did you get all that bull**** from?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Burning things used to be my job.
There's a simplified explanation here for your tiny mind.
Butane gas is commonly dissolved in petrol to aid starting.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petrol#Volatility

harry wrote:
On 4 Sep, 17:33, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
harry wrote:
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:
Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)
For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?
Cheers,
Dave.
There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.
Christ where did you get all that bull**** from?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Burning things used to be my job.
There's a simplified explanation here for your tiny mind.
Butane gas is commonly dissolved in petrol to aid starting.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petrol#Volatility

No mention of buatane I could see there at all.

In message , The Natural Philosopher
writes
harry wrote:
On 4 Sep, 17:33, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
harry wrote:
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:
Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)
For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?
Cheers,
Dave.
There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.
Christ where did you get all that bull**** from?- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -
Burning things used to be my job.
There's a simplified explanation here for your tiny mind.
Butane gas is commonly dissolved in petrol to aid starting.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petrol#Volatility

No mention of buatane I could see there at all.


He was getting confused with bukake


--
geoff

On 5 Sep, 06:37, harry wrote:

Burning things used to be my job.

More of a vocation really. At least that's how the psychiatrist
described it.

In message
,
harry writes
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.

Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

--
geoff

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message
, harry
writes
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.

Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

--
geoff

A little unfair. Don't know about 2-stroke, but diesel and biofuel does:
http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...lcoldweath.htm

And additives can certainly be bought which claim this effect among others:
http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...tives/tcp.aspx

Petrol companies used to make the additives the big selling point: otherwise
why would we choose one brand over another? Whether they really make any
noticeable difference is another matter... (I once met a biker with a bottle
of tetra ethyl lead in his pocket - to stop the pinking on his Laverda.
Very scary scenario indeed: don't know if he is still alive.)

S

Spamlet wrote:
"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message
, harry
writes
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.
There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.
--
geoff

A little unfair. Don't know about 2-stroke, but diesel and biofuel does:
http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...lcoldweath.htm


That entirely different: Those are compression ignition engines.

And additives can certainly be bought which claim this effect among others:
http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...tives/tcp.aspx


Well its easy enough to add stiff to make worn engines spring to life.
But in general there is no need.

Thats what we have a spark for.

Petrol companies used to make the additives the big selling point: otherwise
why would we choose one brand over another?

But in general cold starting has never been a petrol engine problem.


Whether they really make any
noticeable difference is another matter... (I once met a biker with a bottle
of tetra ethyl lead in his pocket - to stop the pinking on his Laverda.
Very scary scenario indeed: don't know if he is still alive.)


Why? its relatively harmless, lead.

Need to cosume a lot over a long period to od any real harm.


S

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Spamlet wrote:
"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message
,
harry writes
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.
There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.
--
geoff

A little unfair. Don't know about 2-stroke, but diesel and biofuel does:
http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...lcoldweath.htm


That entirely different: Those are compression ignition engines.

And additives can certainly be bought which claim this effect among
others:
http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...tives/tcp.aspx


Well its easy enough to add stiff to make worn engines spring to life. But
in general there is no need.

Thats what we have a spark for.

Petrol companies used to make the additives the big selling point:
otherwise why would we choose one brand over another?

But in general cold starting has never been a petrol engine problem.

Certainly was after my typical rebuilds, and I kept a bottle of ether on ice
specially for the purpose. (Yes there probably is truth in the mention of
old petrol, one tends to have after a rebuild, being less keen to ignite.)


Whether they really make any
noticeable difference is another matter... (I once met a biker with a
bottle of tetra ethyl lead in his pocket - to stop the pinking on his
Laverda. Very scary scenario indeed: don't know if he is still alive.)


Why? its relatively harmless, lead.

Concentrated it is very nasty: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tetraethyllead
"Contact with concentrated TEL leads to the familiar symptoms of acute lead
poisoning."

This chap kept a bottle of conc TEL in the pocket of his leathers, and
dribbled it down the sides of the bottle when he added it with every petrol
fill up. He would have been soaked in the stuff and consuming it with every
bag of chips he bought, from what was on his fingers.


Need to cosume a lot over a long period to od any real harm.


S

"Spamlet" wrote in message
...

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message
,
harry writes
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.

Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

--
geoff

A little unfair. Don't know about 2-stroke, but diesel and biofuel does:
http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...lcoldweath.htm

And additives can certainly be bought which claim this effect among
others:
http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...tives/tcp.aspx

Petrol companies used to make the additives the big selling point:
otherwise why would we choose one brand over another? Whether they really
make any noticeable difference is another matter... (I once met a biker
with a bottle of tetra ethyl lead in his pocket - to stop the pinking on
his Laverda. Very scary scenario indeed: don't know if he is still alive.)

S

Not even as complicated as "additives"; petrol as distilled is a blend of
hydrocarbons with different chain lengths; the shorter are more volatile. So
they help starting, but evaporate. One reason why things can be a swine to
start in the spring, on last year's petrol.

newshound wrote:


"Spamlet" wrote in message
...

"geoff" wrote in message
...
In message
,
harry writes
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.

Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

--
geoff

A little unfair. Don't know about 2-stroke, but diesel and biofuel does:
http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...lcoldweath.htm


And additives can certainly be bought which claim this effect among
others:
http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...tives/tcp.aspx

Petrol companies used to make the additives the big selling point:
otherwise why would we choose one brand over another? Whether they
really make any noticeable difference is another matter... (I once met
a biker with a bottle of tetra ethyl lead in his pocket - to stop the
pinking on his Laverda. Very scary scenario indeed: don't know if he
is still alive.)

S

Not even as complicated as "additives"; petrol as distilled is a blend
of hydrocarbons with different chain lengths; the shorter are more
volatile. So they help starting, but evaporate. One reason why things
can be a swine to start in the spring, on last year's petrol.

Actually, on the year *before* last's, petrol. Had no problem with LAST
years.

On 4 Sep, 19:48, "Spamlet" wrote:

A little unfair. *Don't know about 2-stroke, but diesel and biofuel does:http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...guide/a/diesel...

No they don't. If you've got "additives" in diesel, they're there to
avoid waxing in cold weather, not to aid starting.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 4 Sep, 19:48, "Spamlet" wrote:

A little unfair. Don't know about 2-stroke, but diesel and biofuel does:http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...guide/a/diesel...

No they don't. If you've got "additives" in diesel, they're there to
avoid waxing in cold weather, not to aid starting.

sort of. Lacking ether, a glow plug is generally useful.

But starting additives that cost money and don't contribute to final
power are a bad thing.

Better to use the glow plug.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember "Spamlet"
saying something like:

A little unfair. Don't know about 2-stroke, but diesel and biofuel does:
http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...lcoldweath.htm

To deal with a totally different problem relating to diesel.

On 4 Sep, 19:48, "Spamlet" wrote:
"geoff" wrote in message

...





In message
, harry
writes
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.

Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. *When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. *When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

--
geoff

A little unfair. *Don't know about 2-stroke, but diesel and biofuel does:http://alternativefuels.about.com/od...guide/a/diesel...

And additives can certainly be bought which claim this effect among others:http://www.chevron.com/products/prod...tives/tcp.aspx

Petrol companies used to make the additives the big selling point: otherwise
why would we choose one brand over another? *Whether they really make any
noticeable difference is another matter... (I once met a biker with a bottle
of tetra ethyl lead in his pocket - to stop the pinking on his Laverda.
Very scary scenario indeed: don't know if he is still alive.)

S- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Are you mad? He was only adding lead to up the octane rating and
reduce pre-ignition. Actually reduces the calorific value of the
fuel.
Absolutely no danger at all except maybe to the environment.

harry wrote:
noticeable difference is another matter... (I once met a biker with a bottle
of tetra ethyl lead in his pocket - to stop the pinking on his Laverda.
Very scary scenario indeed: don't know if he is still alive.)

Are you mad? He was only adding lead to up the octane rating and
reduce pre-ignition. Actually reduces the calorific value of the
fuel.
Absolutely no danger at all except maybe to the environment.

Or his health if he makes a mistake handling it: lead poisoning.

#Paul

On 5 Sep, 06:42, harry wrote:

Absolutely no danger at all except maybe to the environment.

If he was carrying a bottle of retail octane booster he'd be OK. The
stuff is pre-diluted to a pretty low concentration.

Handling an organic lead compound, like tetraethyl lead, he, and
everyone who shook hands with him for a week, would be at risk of
acute lead poisoning. That stuff is fiendish. Tiny quantities are a
hazard, and skin's no barrier to it.

On 4 Sep, 18:59, geoff wrote:
In message
,
harry writes





On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.

Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. *When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. *When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

--
geoff- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Petrol is not a fixed substance. It is a blend of all manner of
things that varies from company to company and according to climate,
time of year, availabilty and local legislation etc. I never heard
such ignorance as is being spouted here.

There's no excuse. Before you babble on, check your facts on the
internet.
For the less intelligent, start here.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petrol

harry wrote:
On 4 Sep, 18:59, geoff wrote:
In message
,
harry writes





On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:
Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)
For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?
Cheers,
Dave.
There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.
--
geoff- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Petrol is not a fixed substance. It is a blend of all manner of
things that varies from company to company and according to climate,
time of year, availabilty and local legislation etc. I never heard
such ignorance as is being spouted here.

There's no excuse. Before you babble on, check your facts on the
internet.
For the less intelligent, start here.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petrol

The trouble with dimwit ex arsonists with an internet connection, is
they read something and think they understand what it means.

"harry" wrote in message news:26b03234-3e6e-4def-89bc-


Before you babble on, check your facts on the internet.


Check 'facts on internet' .... ********.

The internet is a source of information, good & bad, just because it is
on-line does not make it fact.

Rick Hughes wrote:

"harry" wrote in message news:26b03234-3e6e-4def-89bc-


Before you babble on, check your facts on the internet.


Check 'facts on internet' .... ********.

The internet is a source of information, good & bad, just because it is
on-line does not make it fact.

I suspect "harry" is doing the usual thing of looking on the internet
and not understanding one bit of what he reads. I can recall that some
years ago the US researched the addition of small quantities of butane
to petrol, not to improve starting but to improve emissions in winter.
The recommendation was for butane to be added in very small proportions
(up to 2% IIRC) with a caveat that this increased the vapour pressure
significantly and it would have to be a measure for only the coldest
months of winter.

The winters in question were, of course, considerably colder than in the
UK. The UK's winter temperatures are higher than the autumn and spring
temperatures in the regions of the US where butane was considered as an
additive. I think it's unlikely that it is added in the UK, but I'm sure
"harry" will be able to provide these unimpeachable sources for the use
of butane in petrol in the UK.

In message
,
harry writes
On 4 Sep, 18:59, geoff wrote:
In message
,
harry writes





On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.

Have you been drinking them or something ?

They are very volatile. *When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. *When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

--
geoff- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Petrol is not a fixed substance. It is a blend of all manner of
things that varies from company to company and according to climate,
time of year, availabilty and local legislation etc.

No **** sherlock

I never heard
such ignorance as is being spouted here.

There's no excuse. Before you babble on, check your facts on the
internet.

HA ha - now there's a quote that defines you

--
geoff

"harry" wrote in message
...
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

Not being a user of such things, I am intrigued to know how the fuel level
is maintained in carbs that have to work at any angle - even the different
angles between the front and back pot of my old Ducati, used to give me
headaches getting the mixture right.

S

Spamlet wrote:
"harry" wrote in message
...
On 4 Sep, 16:31, Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.
There are special addtives in petrol to enable easy cold starting.
They are very volatile. When the engine is hot they're not needed.
With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol. When the engine is warm, the
addtives have evaporated leaving the remaining stuff in the carb.
without. So the engine is hard to start.

Not being a user of such things, I am intrigued to know how the fuel level
is maintained in carbs that have to work at any angle - even the different
angles between the front and back pot of my old Ducati, used to give me
headaches getting the mixture right.


what makes you think that fuel level IS maintained :-)

I suspect where there is a fuel chamber in the carb itself, its suction
that gets the fuel into it.

Clunks are what you use to have a pickup at the tank bottom.


S

On 4 Sep, 19:34, "Spamlet" wrote:

Not being a user of such things, I am intrigued to know how the fuel level
is maintained in carbs that have to work at any angle

It isn't.

Carbs need a constant (and tiny) _pressure_ at the jet, so as to give
a predictable flow behaviour. One easy way to achieve this is a known
head and a constant level float chamber. An any-axis carb can't do
this though, so they use a diaphram pressure-regulator instead, just
like a gas regulator.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 4 Sep, 19:34, "Spamlet" wrote:

Not being a user of such things, I am intrigued to know how the fuel level
is maintained in carbs that have to work at any angle

It isn't.

Carbs need a constant (and tiny) _pressure_ at the jet, so as to give
a predictable flow behaviour.

Actually, they don't need pressure above atmosphere, since the venturi
operates below atmospheric.

The simple form of model aircraft engines operate with fueel levels
above and below the carb venturi and no pressurisation at all, or
diaphragms or anything. Its certainly true that larger ones tap exahust
pressure to pressurise the tank, but this is more about reliable running
at odd aerobatic angles, than actually running at all.



One easy way to achieve this is a known
head and a constant level float chamber. An any-axis carb can't do
this though, so they use a diaphram pressure-regulator instead, just
like a gas regulator.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember harry saying
something like:

With a cold engine, most of the petrol has evaporated from the carb.
the choke refills it with fresh petrol.

Woohoo.
The Harrycarb.

Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?


Experience.

Cold. Full choke. pump the primer bulb if it exists, pull and back off
the choke the moment it wont stall teh thing.

Hot. Just pull. If its run out of fuel prime but don't choke.

warm. As above, but pull harder, and maybe a smidgeon of choke,. To
little choke merely means it takes a long time to fire. Too much means
it will flood and you will never restart it.



Cheers,
Dave.

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Bodgit wrote:
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?


Experience.

Cold. Full choke. pump the primer bulb if it exists, pull and back off the
choke the moment it wont stall teh thing.

Hot. Just pull. If its run out of fuel prime but don't choke.

warm. As above, but pull harder, and maybe a smidgeon of choke,. To little
choke merely means it takes a long time to fire. Too much means it will
flood and you will never restart it.


IME,

Cold- set throttle to start position, full choke, pump primer if fitted
acouple of times. Pull cord until it sputters then dies. Choke fully off,
and pull cord til it starts. Probably 1 or 2 tugs.

Hot - set throttle to start position or leave in idle position and pull
cord. If no-go after 4-5 pulls, refer to "Cold" procedure.

If it's being a right c*nt, then it needs a service / new plug / carb reset
etc.

Tim.

"Bodgit" wrote in message
...
I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Cold - Tricky but possible once you know the trick for that particular
engine
Hot - Easy (first pull)
Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
usual procedure is to mess randomly with the choke and throttle. After
a few hundred pulls it eventually sparks up, but by that time I'm too
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?

Cheers,
Dave.

Earplugs for all the neighbours.

S

Bodgit wrote:

I have 4 2-stroke engines (chainsaw, strimmer, outboards etc). For
each one you can summarise the starting procedure thus:

Warm - Nigh on impossible (profanities abound)

For warm I mean that it's been off for more than 5 minutes but less
than an hour or so. Why are they so difficult to start when warm? My
knackered to cut down tree/strim grass/motor to boat etc. Is there
anything I'm missing?


Each one can be different, just like the amount and time needed on a cold
start.
you just need to experiment with choke or primer if it refuses to start
without, and then try and remember what worked for that particular engine.
\0