On Sep 3, 12:30*am, "Martin Crossley"
wrote:
If they are like the old non-safety version, the pin pushes back out with a
bit of jiggling with a suitable tool to try to ease it past the stops (steps
in the moulding) *it clicked against going in, but just slightly more than
enough force damages them.

Lovely :-)

Looks like these are a super-safety type where you can not get them
out again (I can see a logic to that re VDE safety not being left
staring at a live probe sticking out of something). Useful factor for
sales too!

On 3 Sep, 12:59, "js.b1" wrote:
On Sep 3, 12:30*am, "Martin Crossley"

wrote:
If they are like the old non-safety version, the pin pushes back out with a
bit of jiggling with a suitable tool to try to ease it past the stops (steps
in the moulding) *it clicked against going in, but just slightly more than
enough force damages them.

Lovely :-)

Looks like these are a super-safety type where you can not get them
out again (I can see a logic to that re VDE safety not being left
staring at a live probe sticking out of something). Useful factor for
sales too!

Looking at the picture in
http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/88170.pdf
it looks as it it's probably intended to be difficult - if you could
get a piece of thin walled tube which can be pushed into the annular
gap between the two parts of the insulation it might be possible to
release the clip, but unless you've a lot of these to take apart I
suspect it would be more trouble than it's worth - you might have to
experiment on several to get the technique right.

On Sep 3, 3:27 pm, docholliday wrote:
it looks as it it's probably intended to be difficult

It is, got it out - but punched the grub screw sideways into the
terminal :-)
Due to Farnell £20 min order, I will wait until I need some other
things and pick up a few spare.

It happened right when I needed a voltmeter :-)
Car was doing occasional "no start", everything goes dead, then comes
alive again after a minute. Trying again either makes it start fine or
it repeats. I suspect a) high resistance negative battery terminal
from bare conductors under two lousy pozidrive screws and perhaps
another wher the negative cable runs off to after the bodywork
connection (starter ?) or b) starter might be going out because I used
to sometimes get a click-nothing, then repeat, then it started
normally.
If battery voltage drops low enough for any reason the alarm/
immobiliser steps in, making the car dead until they timeout and
making it live & re-armed. It used to do this when the car battery was
right on its last legs, but the battery has recently been replaced and
alternator checked (2x). Battery was 12.9V (last night, 5 starts ok)
to 12.5V (today, 3 starts ok) confirm the battery is ok and the
14.50-14.51V with the engine running and bright door lights shows that
is ok too. However those starts were without it being moved, sat
stationary on the driveway.
I do not think immobilisers or alarms are worth it, better fitting
your own kill switch or other lock.