Can anyone point me to a handy table of electrical loads I can use for
planning a house rewiring job.

In particular, how much do I need to allow for the control gear in a
modern fluorescent light fitting?
--
Les Desser
(The Reply-to address IS valid)

On Aug 30, 10:09*pm, Les Desser wrote:
Can anyone point me to a handy table of electrical loads I can use for
planning a house rewiring job.

In particular, how much do I need to allow for the control gear in a
modern fluorescent light fitting?
--
Les Desser
(The Reply-to address IS valid)

Less power than an old magnetic ballast with glowstart.

http://www.eu-greenlight.org/pdf/Bal...deEN200212.pdf (see page 7
for what the EEI classes mean)
class A3: electronic ballasts
class A2: electronic ballasts with reduced losses
class A1: dimmable electronic ballasts

Page 12 tells me that an A2 class HF ballast uses 55W on a tube rated
58W. Philips or whoever made your ballast(s) have very good PDF files
telling you what (industrial) quantities of the fittings can be
connected to one circuit breaker.

In article
, Part
timer Mon, 30 Aug 2010 15:22:27 writes

Page 12 tells me that an A2 class HF ballast uses 55W on a tube rated
58W.

Thank you very much. That is spot on.

Thanks also to the others who said the same thing - that there is no
need to add an allowance for the modern ballasts.

I will use 40/60/70 W for 4/5/6 foot tubes as an estimate.
--
Les Desser
(The Reply-to address IS valid)

On Aug 30, 10:09*pm, Les Desser wrote:
Can anyone point me to a handy table of electrical loads I can use for
planning a house rewiring job.

In particular, how much do I need to allow for the control gear in a
modern fluorescent light fitting?

Nothing


NT

In article ,
Les Desser wrote:
Can anyone point me to a handy table of electrical loads I can use for
planning a house rewiring job.

If this is your house and of a normal size which you intend living in,
just install the usual circuits. Like as regards lighting, one for each
floor, with an additional one for the hall and stairs. I always use 1.5mm
cable for the feeds which allows uprating of the normal 6 amp MCB later if
needed. The costs of cable etc are tiny compared to the work involved, so
it makes no sense to penny pinch.

In particular, how much do I need to allow for the control gear in a
modern fluorescent light fitting?

None, I'd say.

--
*If a pig loses its voice, is it disgruntled? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
Les Desser wrote:
Can anyone point me to a handy table of electrical loads I can use for
planning a house rewiring job.

If this is your house and of a normal size which you intend living in,
just install the usual circuits. Like as regards lighting, one for each
floor, with an additional one for the hall and stairs. I always use 1.5mm
cable for the feeds which allows uprating of the normal 6 amp MCB later if
needed. The costs of cable etc are tiny compared to the work involved, so
it makes no sense to penny pinch.

If you make provision for an electric oven and hob it would be wise to err
on the cautious side as some models can draw quite a bit of power.

I have just stayed in a holiday cottage where the main switch for the cooker
was at the back of a cupboard. I did wonder if this contravened any
regulations. What was confusing was that there was another main switch which
just operated the bob.


--
Michael Chare

On 30 Aug, 22:09, Les Desser wrote:
Can anyone point me to a handy table of electrical loads I can use for
planning a house rewiring job.

In particular, how much do I need to allow for the control gear in a
modern fluorescent light fitting?
--
Les Desser
(The Reply-to address IS valid)

The old rule of thumb was to multiply the rated wattage of the
individual flourescent batten by 1.8 - this is probably generous but
its workable

In article
,
cynic Thu, 2 Sep 2010 12:56:49 writes

The old rule of thumb was to multiply the rated wattage of the
individual flourescent batten by 1.8 - this is probably generous but
its workable

I do remember that - I used to just double it.

However, it does seem that modern electronic gear does not need any
up-rating
--
Les Desser
(The Reply-to address IS valid)