Just wanted to run this past the panel:

Ripped the old bog (in the hall that used to be a bathroom) out today
(hooray). Previously flushed with loads of bleach and conc HCl (not at the
same time mind) to sanitise and clean everything.

*Much* to my surprise, the pipe in the floor is plastic - as it is a 1950's
bungalow I was expecting clay or iron. Must have been replaced sometime...

But that's not the real point: I plan to fill it with concrete level with
the floor ready to tile over the lot.

1) As it is a plastic pipe, straight down with a rest bend about 18"-2'
down, I'm thinking to throw concrete down until it fills the bend, at which
point it will have enough friction to allow me to pile in more concrete to
the top.

2) The manhole is 4-5' away so no real danger of concrete getting into the
main drains.

3) The PVC pipe should provide effectively a DPM - though there is always a
risk of water getting in from the other end, though I will be plugging that
in the manhole too. The pit will be decomissioned completely once I prove
whether a nearby gutter downpipe goes into it or not, because nothing else
does now.

4) I don't see much point in screed on top of concrete so hence the plan
just to fill the pipe to the floor level.

Anyone see anything wrong with any of that? Filling in bog pipes isn't
something I do on a regular basis!

Ta

Tim

--
Tim Watts

Tim Watts wrote:
Just wanted to run this past the panel:

Ripped the old bog (in the hall that used to be a bathroom) out today
(hooray). Previously flushed with loads of bleach and conc HCl (not
at the same time mind) to sanitise and clean everything.

*Much* to my surprise, the pipe in the floor is plastic - as it is a
1950's bungalow I was expecting clay or iron. Must have been replaced
sometime...

But that's not the real point: I plan to fill it with concrete level
with the floor ready to tile over the lot.

1) As it is a plastic pipe, straight down with a rest bend about
18"-2' down, I'm thinking to throw concrete down until it fills the
bend, at which point it will have enough friction to allow me to pile
in more concrete to the top.

2) The manhole is 4-5' away so no real danger of concrete getting
into the main drains.

3) The PVC pipe should provide effectively a DPM - though there is
always a risk of water getting in from the other end, though I will
be plugging that in the manhole too. The pit will be decomissioned
completely once I prove whether a nearby gutter downpipe goes into it
or not, because nothing else does now.

4) I don't see much point in screed on top of concrete so hence the
plan just to fill the pipe to the floor level.

Anyone see anything wrong with any of that? Filling in bog pipes isn't
something I do on a regular basis!

Ta

Tim

Filling with concrete is all I have ever seen done whilst on site.

Mind you that is all that British Coal did with their mine shafts and they
only put a few feet of concrete at the top of a long vertical hole.
--
Adam

In article , Tim Watts
writes

Anyone see anything wrong with any of that? Filling in bog pipes isn't
something I do on a regular basis!

Me neither, thankfully, but last time I did it I obtained a plastic cap
(available off the shelf) which is a tight fit over the end of the pipe.
If you were able to excavate around the pipe enough to cut it so that
when the cap is fitted, it is flush to the floor, you could tile
straight on to that. The cap is plenty strong enough.

That would also not put the pipe beyond re-use in the future.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")

On Sun, 22 Aug 2010 09:06:39 +0100, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

If you were able to excavate around the pipe enough to cut it so that
when the cap is fitted, it is flush to the floor, you could tile
straight on to that. The cap is plenty strong enough.

That would also not put the pipe beyond re-use in the future.

That would be my prefered approach as well. Even if the pipe is not
going to be used again a 2' vertical drop and swept bend full of
concrete would not be fun to have to dig out. I'd find some way of
plugging the pipe firmly a few inches below the top and then use a
concret plug. Maybe two rings of screws out into the floor slab. The
lower ring having a bit of thick bit of tight fitting card board
shoved against them. It would hold long enough for the concrete to
set with the second ring of screws holding that in place one the
dryish mixture was set.

--
Cheers
Dave.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
Andrew Mawson wrote:
We had a salt glazed pipe under our kitchen at the last house that
had previously served a downstairs loo. I just packed it with
crumpled newspaper and filled it with a very strong sharpe sand
and cement plug maybe 9" long. Never had any problems with it in
the 25 years we were there

Had exactly the same situation and the BCO told me to do exactly
that.

Same here - fistfuls of newspaper to stop it entering the main system, and
tamped strong concrete mix on top of that.

On 22/08/2010 11:51, Steve Walker wrote:
The Medway Handyman wrote:
Andrew Mawson wrote:
We had a salt glazed pipe under our kitchen at the last house that
had previously served a downstairs loo. I just packed it with
crumpled newspaper and filled it with a very strong sharpe sand
and cement plug maybe 9" long. Never had any problems with it in
the 25 years we were there

Had exactly the same situation and the BCO told me to do exactly
that.

Same here - fistfuls of newspaper to stop it entering the main system, and
tamped strong concrete mix on top of that.


Polystyrene packaging works well, but I think you can get something
called a "mushroom bung" if you're serious

In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Anyone see anything wrong with any of that? Filling in bog pipes isn't
something I do on a regular basis!

I'll be interested in replies. Next door had their outside loo removed by
cowboys and my guess is this is how they sealed it off. And it hasn't
worked - we get drain smells. Of course I can't be certain this is the
reason. Theirs would likely have been ceramic, due to the age.

--
*Before they invented drawing boards, what did they go back to?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

In article ,
Tim Watts wrote:
Anyone see anything wrong with any of that? Filling in bog pipes isn't
something I do on a regular basis!

I'll be interested in replies. Next door had their outside loo removed by
cowboys and my guess is this is how they sealed it off. And it hasn't
worked - we get drain smells. Of course I can't be certain this is the
reason. Theirs would likely have been ceramic, due to the age.


I'd be surprised if a minor air leak (if there is) outside would be
discernable by you? IME you have to have a fairly open pipe in a confined
space to get a decent whiff.

Anyway...

That bit went OK. I got 3 M10 SS studs resined into the existing floor,
nespaper bung down the bottom round the bend. Filled with strong C20-ish
concrete.

Had some left, so decided to bung up the defunct entries into the old
manhole. Fine so far. Wondered where the 3rd port went. Guessed it might be
a ground floor flat roof gutter. Yes, that seemed to be so, except that
downpipe is blocked to all but the smallest trickle so the water is going
into the ground. Luckily that bit of the house is a sticky out bit with a
deep (2' rather than the rest of the house which is 1') foundation concrete
strip sitting directly on clay - so washout is likely minimal from a leaking
downpipe and the roof is 3m2 so not too much water.

So that's on the semi urgent list of jobs for conversion to a soakaway.


So after that, I thought I'd better check I hadn't let any concrete related
debris get into the main drains (I was careful). Went round the various
manholes flushing with a hose from the previous one. All well and good until
I got to the last one before the road.

At this point, it is a 6" shared private sewer for 3-4 houses and I must
maintain my section at my expense.

It didn't look too happy. It's an old style one with a u-trap and bypass
port. The bypass plug has never been there, but despite that, there was
water backing up the main exit pipe. Not my concrete, that much I was
certain.

So, in the spirit of DIY, got a 3m bit of JG speedfit and plugged the hose
on the end and tried a bit of low pressure jetting. Could get more than 1.5m
down the main exit. Something soft and sqidgey down there.

So, now, in the spirit of knowing when to give up, called out the local
rodding guys, who came within the hour and ran a jet down it. That worked.

As I had to pay for the hour, he offered to jet the entire 6" up the garden
too. This was a good thing. Although it was functioning, there were piles of
clag (mostly paper and some tree roots) upsteam that came down. They then
blocked the main outlet again - so something's not right down there.

So he cleared that again - this time, something that looked like a cloth
came out which was obviously the culprit - although we both concluded that
there must be a snag in the pipe for it to be getting caught on.

He went through again and could get to the main sewer, but said something
didn't feel right. Maybe roots.

So I've booked a CCTV survey for next week. It's not urgent as the darin is
running, but might as well deal with it in an orderly manner now it's come
to light.

Two bits of good news:

1) He says they can fix roots and damaged joints without digging it up. They
can chop the roots off with some sort of bladed thing that goes on the jet
washer and lined any damaged joints with an epoxy "sock" from the inside all
at surprisingly reasonable rates. I saw a sample repair he made up and
carried in the van. Most impressive - the repair lining is about 1/8" thick
and perefectly smooth and very tough.


2) I start a new job tomorrow so can actually afford all this ********. Glad
I caught it before the drain overflowed and got gross. At least it's working
for now. Also glad I chopped down most of the trees over the drain run
(bah).

Ho hum...

--
Tim Watts

On 22 Aug, 20:25, Tim Watts wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
* *Tim Watts wrote:
Anyone see anything wrong with any of that? Filling in bog pipes isn't
something I do on a regular basis!

I'll be interested in replies. Next door had their outside loo removed by
cowboys and my guess is this is how they sealed it off. And it hasn't
worked - we get drain smells. Of course I can't be certain this is the
reason. Theirs would likely have been ceramic, due to the age.

I'd be surprised if a minor air leak (if there is) outside would be
discernable by you? IME you have to have a fairly open pipe in a confined
space to get a decent whiff.

Anyway...

That bit went OK. I got 3 M10 SS studs resined into the existing floor,
nespaper bung down the bottom round the bend. Filled with strong C20-ish
concrete.

Had some left, so decided to bung up the defunct entries into the old
manhole. Fine so far. Wondered where the 3rd port went. Guessed it might be
a ground floor flat roof gutter. Yes, that seemed to be so, except that
downpipe is blocked to all but the smallest trickle so the water is going
into the ground. Luckily that bit of the house is a sticky out bit with a
deep (2' rather than the rest of the house which is 1') foundation concrete
strip sitting directly on clay - so washout is likely minimal from a leaking
downpipe and the roof is 3m2 so not too much water.

So that's on the semi urgent list of jobs for conversion to a soakaway.

So after that, I thought I'd better check I hadn't let any concrete related
debris get into the main drains (I was careful). Went round the various
manholes flushing with a hose from the previous one. All well and good until
I got to the last one before the road.

At this point, it is a 6" shared private sewer for 3-4 houses and I must
maintain my section at my expense.

It didn't look too happy. It's an old style one with a u-trap and bypass
port. The bypass plug has never been there, but despite that, there was
water backing up the main exit pipe. Not my concrete, that much I was
certain.

So, in the spirit of DIY, got a 3m bit of JG speedfit and plugged the hose
on the end and tried a bit of low pressure jetting. Could get more than 1..5m
down the main exit. Something soft and sqidgey down there.

So, now, in the spirit of knowing when to give up, called out the local
rodding guys, who came within the hour and ran a jet down it. That worked..

As I had to pay for the hour, he offered to jet the entire 6" up the garden
too. This was a good thing. Although it was functioning, there were piles of
clag (mostly paper and some tree roots) upsteam that came down. They then
blocked the main outlet again - so something's not right down there.

So he cleared that again - this time, something that looked like a cloth
came out which was obviously the culprit - although we both concluded that
there must be a snag in the pipe for it to be getting caught on.

He went through again and could get to the main sewer, but said something
didn't feel right. Maybe roots.

So I've booked a CCTV survey for next week. It's not urgent as the darin is
running, but might as well deal with it in an orderly manner now it's come
to light.

Two bits of good news:

1) He says they can fix roots and damaged joints without digging it up. They
can chop the roots off with some sort of bladed thing that goes on the jet
washer and lined any damaged joints with an epoxy "sock" from the inside all
at surprisingly reasonable rates. I saw a sample repair he made up and
carried in the van. Most impressive - the repair lining is about 1/8" thick
and perefectly smooth and very tough.

2) I start a new job tomorrow so can actually afford all this ********. Glad
I caught it before the drain overflowed and got gross. At least it's working
for now. Also glad I chopped down most of the trees over the drain run
(bah).

Ho hum...

--
Tim Watts

Interesting - I got 30m of drain replaced fully by the house
insurance.

Rob

robgraham wrote:


Interesting - I got 30m of drain replaced fully by the house
insurance.

Rob

Oooh... Then it would be certainly worth a call to mine, before starting
work... Never even occurred to me that such things might be covered....

I'll go ahead with the CCTV survey which gives me a report I could send
them.

--
Tim Watts

"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
robgraham wrote:


Interesting - I got 30m of drain replaced fully by the house
insurance.

Rob

Oooh... Then it would be certainly worth a call to mine, before starting
work... Never even occurred to me that such things might be covered....

I'll go ahead with the CCTV survey which gives me a report I could send
them.

--
Tim Watts

How old is your house? Shared private sewers built before 1/10/1937 are the
responsibility of the local water company who must repair them free of
charge.
--
Dave Baker

"Dave Baker" wrote:
"Tim Watts" wrote in message
...
robgraham wrote:


Interesting - I got 30m of drain replaced fully by the house
insurance.

Rob

Oooh... Then it would be certainly worth a call to mine, before
starting
work... Never even occurred to me that such things might be
covered....

I'll go ahead with the CCTV survey which gives me a report I could
send
them.

--
Tim Watts

How old is your house? Shared private sewers built before 1/10/1937
are the
responsibility of the local water company who must repair them free of

charge.

1950s
--
Tim Watts

On 23 Aug,
Tim Watts wrote:

"Dave Baker" wrote:

How old is your house? Shared private sewers built before 1/10/1937
are the
responsibility of the local water company who must repair them free of

charge.

1950s

The last government was in the process of extending this responsibility to
all private sewers from next year. The enabling legislation was passed. I
wonder what's happened about it?

--
B Thumbs
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