drawn a blank round here - pallet quantities or drive to south
yorkshire?!!!?

anyone know who may have in stock in ?

better perhaps is there an alternative?

I'm rebuilding a rotted (from inside) chimney stack - seems SRPC is
the stuff to use to try to not have the same thing happen again....

Cheers
Jim K

"Jim K" wrote in message
...
drawn a blank round here - pallet quantities or drive to south
yorkshire?!!!?

anyone know who may have in stock in ?

better perhaps is there an alternative?

I'm rebuilding a rotted (from inside) chimney stack - seems SRPC is
the stuff to use to try to not have the same thing happen again....

Cheers
Jim K

How old would this be? If it is a relic from the days before smokeless
fuels, you shouldn't have a problem nowadays. And if the chimney has been
emitting sulphurous fumes these days, the environmental health department of
the local council will want to know about it.

SO

On Aug 17, 6:44 pm, "Spamlet" wrote:
"Jim K" wrote in message

...

drawn a blank round here - pallet quantities or drive to south
yorkshire?!!!?

anyone know who may have in stock in ?

better perhaps is there an alternative?

I'm rebuilding a rotted (from inside) chimney stack - seems SRPC is
the stuff to use to try to not have the same thing happen again....

Cheers
Jim K

How old would this be? If it is a relic from the days before smokeless
fuels, you shouldn't have a problem nowadays. And if the chimney has been
emitting sulphurous fumes these days, the environmental health department of
the local council will want to know about it.

quite right too if a little tangenital:-

I expect the bricks are "saturated" with sulphatey wastes from decades
of burning....so when they get wet next time it will leach out
and....attack the new OPC mortar....

Cheers
Jim K

On Aug 17, 7:17*pm, Jim K wrote:
On Aug 17, 6:44 pm, "Spamlet" wrote:



"Jim K" wrote in message

....

drawn a blank round here - pallet quantities or drive to south
yorkshire?!!!?

anyone know who may have in stock in ?

better perhaps is there an alternative?

I'm rebuilding a rotted (from inside) chimney stack - seems SRPC is
the stuff *to use to try to not have the same thing happen again.....

Cheers
Jim K

How old would this be? *If it is a relic from the days before smokeless
fuels, you shouldn't have a problem nowadays. *And if the chimney has been
emitting sulphurous fumes these days, the environmental health department of
the local council will want to know about it.

quite right too if a little tangenital:-

I expect the bricks are "saturated" with sulphatey wastes from decades
of burning....so when they get wet next time it will leach out
and....attack the new OPC mortar....

Cheers
Jim K

Use lime?


NT

On Aug 17, 9:30 pm, Tabby wrote:
On Aug 17, 7:17 pm, Jim K wrote:



On Aug 17, 6:44 pm, "Spamlet" wrote:

"Jim K" wrote in message

...

drawn a blank round here - pallet quantities or drive to south
yorkshire?!!!?

anyone know who may have in stock in ?

better perhaps is there an alternative?

I'm rebuilding a rotted (from inside) chimney stack - seems SRPC is
the stuff to use to try to not have the same thing happen again....

Cheers
Jim K

How old would this be? If it is a relic from the days before smokeless
fuels, you shouldn't have a problem nowadays. And if the chimney has been
emitting sulphurous fumes these days, the environmental health department of
the local council will want to know about it.

quite right too if a little tangenital:-

I expect the bricks are "saturated" with sulphatey wastes from decades
of burning....so when they get wet next time it will leach out
and....attack the new OPC mortar....

Cheers
Jim K

Use lime?

NT

take/point me thru the theory plse?? ;)

CHeers
Jim K

"Jim K" wrote in message
...
On Aug 17, 6:44 pm, "Spamlet" wrote:
"Jim K" wrote in message

...

drawn a blank round here - pallet quantities or drive to south
yorkshire?!!!?

anyone know who may have in stock in ?

better perhaps is there an alternative?

I'm rebuilding a rotted (from inside) chimney stack - seems SRPC is
the stuff to use to try to not have the same thing happen again....

Cheers
Jim K

How old would this be? If it is a relic from the days before smokeless
fuels, you shouldn't have a problem nowadays. And if the chimney has
been
emitting sulphurous fumes these days, the environmental health department
of
the local council will want to know about it.

quite right too if a little tangenital:-

I expect the bricks are "saturated" with sulphatey wastes from decades
of burning....so when they get wet next time it will leach out
and....attack the new OPC mortar....

Cheers
Jim K

I would have thought that if the acid is in the bricks from long ago it may
well have already attacked the cement and neutralised itself or done so by
absorbing CO2 from the air (But I'm no mason or restoration buff so others
might know better how long this stuff can hang around.) You could try
getting some pH - the 'universal' type - papers and testing some washings
from the brickwork, to see how seriously acid they are, and even add a pinch
of lime at a time to see how much it takes to neutralise.

Gosh, the old chemistry seems to be becoming a UK.d-i-y feature these days!

NT says to try lime - presumably as a lime wash - which would convert any
sulphuric remains to gypsum one would expect, but how far into a brick this
would get, one can only guess. You might try some washing soda or sodium
bicarbonate to wash down the bricks, which ought to penetrate further as it
would be less likely to solidify and block the pores.

I think you probably don't really have much to worry about if your chimney
is not going to go on using sulphur containing fuels. It takes quite a lot
of a liquid to dissolve a solid, and there is a fair amount of lime around
each brick if you think about it. You say next time the bricks get wet acid
may leach out, but you also said the existing mortar rotted from the inside,
so there may not actually be any acid on the outside (is there lichen on the
masonry: if so, it is unlikely to be acid). If the mortar was so badly
attacked that the bricks are easily extracted and cleaned up: why not go the
whole hog and dunk them in a bath of dilute lime water for a few days. That
would sort out any residual acid for sure.

S

On Aug 18, 1:06 am, "Spamlet" wrote:

I would have thought that if the acid is in the bricks from long ago it may
well have already attacked the cement and neutralised itself

or used up all the cement and lead to the crumbling exterior issues I
have to address?

or done so by
absorbing CO2 from the air (But I'm no mason or restoration buff so others
might know better how long this stuff can hang around.) You could try
getting some pH - the 'universal' type - papers and testing some washings
from the brickwork, to see how seriously acid they are, and even add a pinch
of lime at a time to see how much it takes to neutralise.

TBH I am 3 storeys up and just want to do it as best I can within
reason and cross fingers *I* won't be up there again

I think you probably don't really have much to worry about if your chimney
is not going to go on using sulphur containing fuels. It takes quite a lot
of a liquid to dissolve a solid, and there is a fair amount of lime around
each brick if you think about it.

well there *was* yes .....see below

You say next time the bricks get wet acid
may leach out, but you also said the existing mortar rotted from the inside,
so there may not actually be any acid on the outside

outside of what? the pointing is hanging out & crumbling, till i take
it down I have no idea what state the (lime) mortar is in but suffice
to say "it's all moving"....

(is there lichen on the
masonry: if so, it is unlikely to be acid). If the mortar was so badly
attacked that the bricks are easily extracted and cleaned up: why not go the
whole hog and dunk them in a bath of dilute lime water for a few days. That
would sort out any residual acid for sure.

MMM good ideas but the 3 storey/time thoughts apply here too ...

what easily available mortar mix will resist any possible attack the
best? using part lime? searching out SRPC?
NB I can;t have it too strong as the bricks are porous weak handmades
that risk spalling if mortar too strong...

Cheers
Jim K

"Jim K" wrote in message
...
On Aug 18, 1:06 am, "Spamlet" wrote:

I would have thought that if the acid is in the bricks from long ago it
may
well have already attacked the cement and neutralised itself

or used up all the cement and lead to the crumbling exterior issues I
have to address?

or done so by
absorbing CO2 from the air (But I'm no mason or restoration buff so
others
might know better how long this stuff can hang around.) You could try
getting some pH - the 'universal' type - papers and testing some washings
from the brickwork, to see how seriously acid they are, and even add a
pinch
of lime at a time to see how much it takes to neutralise.

TBH I am 3 storeys up and just want to do it as best I can within
reason and cross fingers *I* won't be up there again

I think you probably don't really have much to worry about if your
chimney
is not going to go on using sulphur containing fuels. It takes quite a
lot
of a liquid to dissolve a solid, and there is a fair amount of lime
around
each brick if you think about it.

well there *was* yes .....see below

You say next time the bricks get wet acid
may leach out, but you also said the existing mortar rotted from the
inside,
so there may not actually be any acid on the outside

outside of what? the pointing is hanging out & crumbling, till i take
it down I have no idea what state the (lime) mortar is in but suffice
to say "it's all moving"....

(is there lichen on the
masonry: if so, it is unlikely to be acid). If the mortar was so badly
attacked that the bricks are easily extracted and cleaned up: why not go
the
whole hog and dunk them in a bath of dilute lime water for a few days.
That
would sort out any residual acid for sure.

MMM good ideas but the 3 storey/time thoughts apply here too ...

what easily available mortar mix will resist any possible attack the
best? using part lime? searching out SRPC?
NB I can;t have it too strong as the bricks are porous weak handmades
that risk spalling if mortar too strong...

Cheers
Jim K

It does sound like you ought to be using lime mortar - which according to
others here when it was discussed, does not have to be the silly expensive
aged variety. Soft old bricks and modern hard mortar won't get on together.
Shame you are not getting any replies from the experienced brick layers out
there.

S