additions welcome, I've not taken an sds one apart yet.


NT



==Chuck types==
Keyless: Quick & easy to use, but bits have a habit of coming loose,
especially with hammer use.

Keyed chuck: these give the best grip, but are less convenient to use
than keyless. Loss of the key wastes time if not attached to the mains
lead.

SDS, SDS+: 2 slightly different names for the exact same thing.
Various performance advantages over the older types of chuck.

SDS max: larger heavier duty version of SDS+


==Non-SDS chucks==

===Keys===
There are different key sizes.

The key can be attached to the mains lead with a cable tie to avoid
wasting time.


===Replacement===
Replacing a chuck is a fairly easy job, and doesn't cost much.
* Ensure the replacement is the right size of thread, and takes a
suitable maximum size of tools.
* Some chucks are unsuitable for hammer use, and some hammerable
chucks are unsuitable for SDS use, which applies much greater forces.


===Removal===
# Open the chuck jaws wide.
# Unscrew the [[screw]] down the centre between the jaws. These often
have a reverse thread and can be very tight. A manual [[impact
driver]] can be useful.
# Insert chuck key, or attach locking pliers to the top of a keyless
chuck
# Tap the key with a [[hammer]] to unscrew the chuck from the drill


===Repair===
Whether the chuck is sticking, loosening unwantedly or the teeth are
out of position, the repair procedure is much the same. Remove the
chuck from the drill, remove its outer cover, and clean the parts up.

Application of [[oil]] where not appropriate can result in chucks
coming undone when they shouldn't.

In some cases its possible to reassemble a broken key ring and have
the chuck then work fine long term. I did this once, and have had no
problem with it. The broken parts are kept in place by the outer
cover, and it works perfectly.


==Disassembly==
# Remove chuck from the drill,
# Clamp the outer body of the chuck near the drill-ward end (don't
clamp near the key tightening ring), ideally in a vice in 2 indented
bits of wood.
# Tap the stem towards where the drill bit tip would be, to push the
chuck assembly out from the outer cover

The mechanism is simple, and self assembly is fairly self evident.


==SDS Chucks==


==See also==



[[Category:Tools]]

On 27 July, 03:05, NT wrote:
additions welcome, I've not taken an sds one apart yet.

NT

==Chuck types==
Keyless: Quick & easy to use, but bits have a habit of coming loose,
especially with hammer use.

Keyed chuck: these give the best grip, but are less convenient to use
than keyless. Loss of the key wastes time if not attached to the mains
lead.

SDS, SDS+: 2 slightly different names for the exact same thing.
Various performance advantages over the older types of chuck.

SDS max: larger heavier duty version of SDS+

==Non-SDS chucks==

===Keys===
There are different key sizes.

The key can be attached to the mains lead with a cable tie to avoid
wasting time.

===Replacement===
Replacing a chuck is a fairly easy job, and doesn't cost much.
* Ensure the replacement is the right size of thread, and takes a
suitable maximum size of tools.
* Some chucks are unsuitable for hammer use, and some hammerable
chucks are unsuitable for SDS use, which applies much greater forces.

===Removal===
# Open the chuck jaws wide.
# Unscrew the [[screw]] down the centre between the jaws. These often
have a reverse thread and can be very tight. A manual [[impact
driver]] can be useful.
# Insert chuck key, or attach locking pliers to the top of a keyless
chuck
# Tap the key with a [[hammer]] to unscrew the chuck from the drill

===Repair===
Whether the chuck is sticking, loosening unwantedly or the teeth are
out of position, the repair procedure is much the same. Remove the
chuck from the drill, remove its outer cover, and clean the parts up.

Application of [[oil]] where not appropriate can result in chucks
coming undone when they shouldn't.

In some cases its possible to reassemble a broken key ring and have
the chuck then work fine long term. I did this once, and have had no
problem with it. The broken parts are kept in place by the outer
cover, and it works perfectly.

==Disassembly==
# Remove chuck from the drill,
# Clamp the outer body of the chuck near the drill-ward end (don't
clamp near the key tightening ring), ideally in a vice in 2 indented
bits of wood.
# Tap the stem towards where the drill bit tip would be, to push the
chuck assembly out from the outer cover

The mechanism is simple, and self assembly is fairly self evident.

==SDS Chucks==

==See also==

[[Category:Tools]]

Under keyless chucks, mention "single sleeve" types.

On better quality cordless tools, when the trigger is released and the
chuck stops rotating, the chuck is "locked" in position and cannot
turn.

Unlike other keyless chuck types, where one hand is used to stop the
chuck rotating and the other to loosen the sleeve, single sleeve
chucks allow the user to remain holding the tool through the normal
grip and use the other hand to rotate the larger sleeve (usually
covering virtually the whole chuck).

On Jul 27, 8:06*am, " wrote:
On 27 July, 03:05, NT wrote:



additions welcome, I've not taken an sds one apart yet.

NT

==Chuck types==


Under keyless chucks, mention "single sleeve" types.

On better quality cordless tools, when the trigger is released and the
chuck stops rotating, the chuck is "locked" in position and cannot
turn.

Unlike other keyless chuck types, where one hand is used to stop the
chuck rotating and the other to loosen the sleeve, single sleeve
chucks allow the user to remain holding the tool through the normal
grip and use the other hand to rotate the larger sleeve (usually
covering virtually the whole chuck).

I didnt know there were any keyless ones that weren't like that. Are
there?


NT

On 27 July, 03:05, NT wrote:
additions welcome, I've not taken an sds one apart yet.

NT

==Chuck types==
Keyless: Quick & easy to use, but bits have a habit of coming loose,
especially with hammer use.

Keyed chuck: these give the best grip, but are less convenient to use
than keyless. Loss of the key wastes time if not attached to the mains
lead.

SDS, SDS+: 2 slightly different names for the exact same thing.
Various performance advantages over the older types of chuck.

SDS max: larger heavier duty version of SDS+

==Non-SDS chucks==

===Keys===
There are different key sizes.

The key can be attached to the mains lead with a cable tie to avoid
wasting time.

===Replacement===
Replacing a chuck is a fairly easy job, and doesn't cost much.
* Ensure the replacement is the right size of thread, and takes a
suitable maximum size of tools.
* Some chucks are unsuitable for hammer use, and some hammerable
chucks are unsuitable for SDS use, which applies much greater forces.

===Removal===
# Open the chuck jaws wide.
# Unscrew the [[screw]] down the centre between the jaws. These often
have a reverse thread and can be very tight. A manual [[impact
driver]] can be useful.
# Insert chuck key, or attach locking pliers to the top of a keyless
chuck
# Tap the key with a [[hammer]] to unscrew the chuck from the drill

===Repair===
Whether the chuck is sticking, loosening unwantedly or the teeth are
out of position, the repair procedure is much the same. Remove the
chuck from the drill, remove its outer cover, and clean the parts up.

Application of [[oil]] where not appropriate can result in chucks
coming undone when they shouldn't.

In some cases its possible to reassemble a broken key ring and have
the chuck then work fine long term. I did this once, and have had no
problem with it. The broken parts are kept in place by the outer
cover, and it works perfectly.

==Disassembly==
# Remove chuck from the drill,
# Clamp the outer body of the chuck near the drill-ward end (don't
clamp near the key tightening ring), ideally in a vice in 2 indented
bits of wood.
# Tap the stem towards where the drill bit tip would be, to push the
chuck assembly out from the outer cover

The mechanism is simple, and self assembly is fairly self evident.

==SDS Chucks==

==See also==

[[Category:Tools]]

The SDS chuck is excellent for being quick and foolproof. Don't
worry, they fall apart on their own after a while.

On 27 July, 09:30, NT wrote:
On Jul 27, 8:06*am, " wrote:



On 27 July, 03:05, NT wrote:

additions welcome, I've not taken an sds one apart yet.

NT

==Chuck types==
Under keyless chucks, mention "single sleeve" types.

On better quality cordless tools, when the trigger is released and the
chuck stops rotating, the chuck is "locked" in position and cannot
turn.

Unlike other keyless chuck types, where one hand is used to stop the
chuck rotating and the other to loosen the sleeve, single sleeve
chucks allow the user to remain holding the tool through the normal
grip and use the other hand to rotate the larger sleeve (usually
covering virtually the whole chuck).

I didnt know there were any keyless ones that weren't like that. Are
there?

NT

Yes, plenty of two-part sleeves where a hand is required to grip each
part and term them against each other.

On Jul 27, 9:33*am, " wrote:
On 27 July, 09:30, NT wrote:



On Jul 27, 8:06*am, " wrote:

On 27 July, 03:05, NT wrote:

additions welcome, I've not taken an sds one apart yet.

NT

==Chuck types==
Under keyless chucks, mention "single sleeve" types.

On better quality cordless tools, when the trigger is released and the
chuck stops rotating, the chuck is "locked" in position and cannot
turn.

Unlike other keyless chuck types, where one hand is used to stop the
chuck rotating and the other to loosen the sleeve, single sleeve
chucks allow the user to remain holding the tool through the normal
grip and use the other hand to rotate the larger sleeve (usually
covering virtually the whole chuck).

I didnt know there were any keyless ones that weren't like that. Are
there?

NT

Yes, plenty of two-part sleeves where a hand is required to grip each
part and term them against each other.

thanks, I've added it.


NT

"NT" wrote in message
...
additions welcome, I've not taken an sds one apart yet.


NT



==Chuck types==
Keyless: Quick & easy to use, but bits have a habit of coming loose,
especially with hammer use.

Keyed chuck: these give the best grip, but are less convenient to use
than keyless. Loss of the key wastes time if not attached to the mains
lead.

SDS, SDS+: 2 slightly different names for the exact same thing.
Various performance advantages over the older types of chuck.

SDS max: larger heavier duty version of SDS+


==Non-SDS chucks==

===Keys===
There are different key sizes.

The key can be attached to the mains lead with a cable tie to avoid
wasting time.


===Replacement===
Replacing a chuck is a fairly easy job, and doesn't cost much.
* Ensure the replacement is the right size of thread, and takes a
suitable maximum size of tools.
* Some chucks are unsuitable for hammer use, and some hammerable
chucks are unsuitable for SDS use, which applies much greater forces.


===Removal===
# Open the chuck jaws wide.
# Unscrew the [[screw]] down the centre between the jaws. These often
have a reverse thread and can be very tight. A manual [[impact
driver]] can be useful.
# Insert chuck key, or attach locking pliers to the top of a keyless
chuck
# Tap the key with a [[hammer]] to unscrew the chuck from the drill


===Repair===
Whether the chuck is sticking, loosening unwantedly or the teeth are
out of position, the repair procedure is much the same. Remove the
chuck from the drill, remove its outer cover, and clean the parts up.

Application of [[oil]] where not appropriate can result in chucks
coming undone when they shouldn't.

In some cases its possible to reassemble a broken key ring and have
the chuck then work fine long term. I did this once, and have had no
problem with it. The broken parts are kept in place by the outer
cover, and it works perfectly.


==Disassembly==
# Remove chuck from the drill,
# Clamp the outer body of the chuck near the drill-ward end (don't
clamp near the key tightening ring), ideally in a vice in 2 indented
bits of wood.
# Tap the stem towards where the drill bit tip would be, to push the
chuck assembly out from the outer cover

The mechanism is simple, and self assembly is fairly self evident.



Sorry NT, but my experience is that keyed chucks are rubbish compared with
modern keyless ones. Perhaps on some big precision items like lathes, they
may come into their own, but for the typical diy drill, the day they brought
out the keyless was a huge step forward.

There are keyless and keyless though. Some are very crudely made out of
soft aluminium, and some don't seem to have much of an interlock and do work
loose under hammer, but others have a sort of ratcheting 'clickstop' action,
which in my view is extremely impressive and knocks spots off any keyed
chuck I've used.

S

Latest version...


==Chuck types==
Keyless: Quick & easy to use. Some keyless chucks give poor grip
compared to keyed, often coming loose, especially with hammer action,
and some are very good. Clickstop chucks perform even better than
keyed chucks.
* 2 part sleeve: requires 2 hands to operate
* single sleeve: requires one hand to operate. To get maximum
tightening, set the drill to its lowest gear.

Keyed chuck:
* Less convenient to use than keyless.
* Level of grip with these is consistently good, but there are
situations in which they can come loose, mainly with hammer action and
large bits.
* Loss of the key wastes time if not attached to the mains lead.

SDS, SDS+: 2 slightly different names for the exact same thing. Big
performance advantages over the older types of chuck in hammer mode.

SDS max: larger heavier duty version of SDS+


==Non-SDS chucks==

===Keys===
There are different key sizes. If you get a multi-headed replacement
key, it saves time to put some paint on the bit that fits.

The key can be attached to the mains lead with a cable tie to avoid
wasted time searching for it.


===Replacement===
Replacing a chuck is a fairly easy job, and doesn't cost much.
* Ensure the replacement is the right size of thread, and takes a
suitable maximum size of tools.
* Some chucks are unsuitable for hammer use, and non-SDS hammerable
chucks are unsuitable for SDS use in hammer mode (SDS applies much
greater forces).


===Removal===
# Open the chuck jaws wide.
# Unscrew the [[screw]] down the centre between the jaws. These often
have a reverse thread and can be very tight. A manual [[impact
driver]] can be useful.
# Insert chuck key, or attach [[Clamps|locking pliers]] to the top of
a keyless chuck
# Tap the key with a [[hammer]] to unscrew the chuck from the drill


===Repair===
Whether the chuck is sticking, loosening unwantedly or the jaws are
out of position, the repair procedure is much the same. Remove the
chuck from the drill, remove its outer cover, and clean the parts up.

Application of [[oil]] where not appropriate can result in chucks
coming undone when they shouldn't.

In some cases its possible to reassemble a broken key ring and have
the chuck then work fine long term. I did this once, and have had no
problem with it. The broken parts are kept in place by the outer
cover, and it works perfectly.


==Disassembly==
# Remove chuck from the drill,
# Clamp the outer body of the chuck near the drill-ward end (don't
[[clamp]] near the key tightening ring), ideally in a vice in 2
indented bits of [[wood]].
# Tap the stem towards where the drill bit tip would be, to push the
chuck assembly out from the outer cover

The mechanism is simple, and self assembly is fairly self evident.


==SDS Chucks==
Need greasing very occasionally.


==See also==



[[Category:Tools]]




NT

"NT" wrote in message
...
Latest version...


==Chuck types==
Keyless: Quick & easy to use. Some keyless chucks give poor grip
compared to keyed, often coming loose, especially with hammer action,
and some are very good. Clickstop chucks perform even better than
keyed chucks.
* 2 part sleeve: requires 2 hands to operate
* single sleeve: requires one hand to operate. To get maximum
tightening, set the drill to its lowest gear.

Keyed chuck:
* Less convenient to use than keyless.
* Level of grip with these is consistently good, but there are
situations in which they can come loose, mainly with hammer action and
large bits.
* Loss of the key wastes time if not attached to the mains lead.

SDS, SDS+: 2 slightly different names for the exact same thing. Big
performance advantages over the older types of chuck in hammer mode.

SDS max: larger heavier duty version of SDS+


==Non-SDS chucks==

===Keys===
There are different key sizes. If you get a multi-headed replacement
key, it saves time to put some paint on the bit that fits.

The key can be attached to the mains lead with a cable tie to avoid
wasted time searching for it.


===Replacement===
Replacing a chuck is a fairly easy job, and doesn't cost much.
* Ensure the replacement is the right size of thread, and takes a
suitable maximum size of tools.
* Some chucks are unsuitable for hammer use, and non-SDS hammerable
chucks are unsuitable for SDS use in hammer mode (SDS applies much
greater forces).


===Removal===
# Open the chuck jaws wide.
# Unscrew the [[screw]] down the centre between the jaws. These often
have a reverse thread and can be very tight. A manual [[impact
driver]] can be useful.
# Insert chuck key, or attach [[Clamps|locking pliers]] to the top of
a keyless chuck
# Tap the key with a [[hammer]] to unscrew the chuck from the drill


===Repair===
Whether the chuck is sticking, loosening unwantedly or the jaws are
out of position, the repair procedure is much the same. Remove the
chuck from the drill, remove its outer cover, and clean the parts up.

Application of [[oil]] where not appropriate can result in chucks
coming undone when they shouldn't.

In some cases its possible to reassemble a broken key ring and have
the chuck then work fine long term. I did this once, and have had no
problem with it. The broken parts are kept in place by the outer
cover, and it works perfectly.


==Disassembly==
# Remove chuck from the drill,
# Clamp the outer body of the chuck near the drill-ward end (don't
[[clamp]] near the key tightening ring), ideally in a vice in 2
indented bits of [[wood]].
# Tap the stem towards where the drill bit tip would be, to push the
chuck assembly out from the outer cover

The mechanism is simple, and self assembly is fairly self evident.


==SDS Chucks==
Need greasing very occasionally.


NT

Thanks NT. If that clickstop reference is from me alone, do check as I
don't know the official name for them. I did have a look at those currently
listed in Screwfix but couldn't see the one they used to do. (They only used
to have a couple of alternatives but now they give several and just expect
you to know from the brand name.)

S

"Spamlet" wrote in message
...

"NT" wrote in message
...
Latest version...


==Chuck types==
Keyless: Quick & easy to use. Some keyless chucks give poor grip
compared to keyed, often coming loose, especially with hammer action,
and some are very good. Clickstop chucks perform even better than
keyed chucks.
* 2 part sleeve: requires 2 hands to operate
* single sleeve: requires one hand to operate. To get maximum
tightening, set the drill to its lowest gear.

Keyed chuck:
* Less convenient to use than keyless.
* Level of grip with these is consistently good, but there are
situations in which they can come loose, mainly with hammer action and
large bits.
* Loss of the key wastes time if not attached to the mains lead.

SDS, SDS+: 2 slightly different names for the exact same thing. Big
performance advantages over the older types of chuck in hammer mode.

SDS max: larger heavier duty version of SDS+


==Non-SDS chucks==

===Keys===
There are different key sizes. If you get a multi-headed replacement
key, it saves time to put some paint on the bit that fits.

The key can be attached to the mains lead with a cable tie to avoid
wasted time searching for it.


===Replacement===
Replacing a chuck is a fairly easy job, and doesn't cost much.
* Ensure the replacement is the right size of thread, and takes a
suitable maximum size of tools.
* Some chucks are unsuitable for hammer use, and non-SDS hammerable
chucks are unsuitable for SDS use in hammer mode (SDS applies much
greater forces).


===Removal===
# Open the chuck jaws wide.
# Unscrew the [[screw]] down the centre between the jaws. These often
have a reverse thread and can be very tight. A manual [[impact
driver]] can be useful.
# Insert chuck key, or attach [[Clamps|locking pliers]] to the top of
a keyless chuck
# Tap the key with a [[hammer]] to unscrew the chuck from the drill


===Repair===
Whether the chuck is sticking, loosening unwantedly or the jaws are
out of position, the repair procedure is much the same. Remove the
chuck from the drill, remove its outer cover, and clean the parts up.

Application of [[oil]] where not appropriate can result in chucks
coming undone when they shouldn't.

In some cases its possible to reassemble a broken key ring and have
the chuck then work fine long term. I did this once, and have had no
problem with it. The broken parts are kept in place by the outer
cover, and it works perfectly.


==Disassembly==
# Remove chuck from the drill,
# Clamp the outer body of the chuck near the drill-ward end (don't
[[clamp]] near the key tightening ring), ideally in a vice in 2
indented bits of [[wood]].
# Tap the stem towards where the drill bit tip would be, to push the
chuck assembly out from the outer cover

The mechanism is simple, and self assembly is fairly self evident.


==SDS Chucks==
Need greasing very occasionally.


NT

Thanks NT. If that clickstop reference is from me alone, do check as I
don't know the official name for them. I did have a look at those
currently listed in Screwfix but couldn't see the one they used to do.
(They only used to have a couple of alternatives but now they give several
and just expect you to know from the brand name.)

S

Looks like this Toolstation 'locking' one may be similar:
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p71242

And here they are 'twistlock' and 'supra'
http://www.thesitebox.com/Category/5...ll-chucks.aspx

More tips he
http://everything2.com/title/Keyless+chuck

S

On Tue, 27 Jul 2010 18:18:32 +0100, "Spamlet"
wrote:


Sorry NT, but my experience is that keyed chucks are rubbish compared with
modern keyless ones. Perhaps on some big precision items like lathes, they
may come into their own, but for the typical diy drill, the day they brought
out the keyless was a huge step forward.

There are keyless and keyless though. Some are very crudely made out of
soft aluminium, and some don't seem to have much of an interlock and do work
loose under hammer, but others have a sort of ratcheting 'clickstop' action,
which in my view is extremely impressive and knocks spots off any keyed
chuck I've used.

Conversely, when I bought my first battery drill, a DeWalt, it came
with a keyless chuck. I took it home and used it for a bit of steel
drilling then popped in a hex shanked stepped drill bit. After a few
fairly easy / gentle holes I went to get the bit out and couldn't.
After trying some rubber strap wrenches etc (I didn't want to mark it,
it was brand new) I took it back to the (proper tool) shop and offered
it to them to remove. The first guy looked at me (and probably thought
'noob' or somesuch) and then proceeded to twist and turn and couldn't
undo it. It then got passed through all the guys till it ended up with
the shop gorilla and he gave up after nearly bursting a blood vessel.

Eventually they got the chuck open with a pair of pipe wrenches and I
asked them to fit a proper chuck. That has been on there for more than
10 years now and never not worked.

I similarly fitted an all steel keyless chuck on a Hitachi hammer
drill and it's forever coming undone (especially in hammer mode, as
you mentioned).

The cheapo keyless on my cheapo 24V battery drill sheds it's plastic
locking ring grips (although otherwise works).

If I had to choose one drill that I had to rely on I think it would
have to have a traditional keyed chuck.

Cheers, T i m

...but others have a sort of ratcheting 'clickstop' action,
which in my view is extremely impressive...

That's my experience too.

My bosch gbh2-24dfr comes with an interchangeable sds chuck and
clickstop keyless chuck.

This clickstop chuck is the bees knees, easily grips large holecutter
saws (it also has a two-part sleeve), never gives the slightest
trouble.

Similarly my bosch cordless combi has a clickstop (on a single
sleeve). Not the superb quality of the interchangable one on the sds,
but nevertheless does its job.

Rather than the faq discrediting certain types of chuck, it might be
fairer to say "The quality of the chuck is very important in selecting
a drill. Otherwise good products may be let down by excessive cost-
cutting in this area".

Conversely, when I bought my first battery drill, a DeWalt, it came
with a keyless chuck. I took it home and used it for a bit of steel
drilling then popped in a hex shanked stepped drill bit. After a few
fairly easy / gentle holes I went to get the bit out and couldn't.
After trying some rubber strap wrenches etc (I didn't want to mark it,
it was brand new) I took it back to the (proper tool) shop and offered
it to them to remove. The first guy looked at me (and probably thought
'noob' or somesuch) and then proceeded to twist and turn and couldn't
undo it. It then got passed through all the guys till it ended up with
the shop gorilla and he gave up after nearly bursting a blood vessel.

Same thing happened to me the other day after some heavy masonry
drilling with a corded drill.


Eventually they got the chuck open with a pair of pipe wrenches and I
asked them to fit a proper chuck. That has been on there for more than
10 years now and never not worked.


Yes, the pipe wrenches shifted it easily, and it doesn't feel like it
will happen again.

On Wed, 28 Jul 2010 12:38:05 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:


Conversely, when I bought my first battery drill, a DeWalt, it came
with a keyless chuck. I took it home and used it for a bit of steel
drilling then popped in a hex shanked stepped drill bit. After a few
fairly easy / gentle holes I went to get the bit out and couldn't.
After trying some rubber strap wrenches etc (I didn't want to mark it,
it was brand new) I took it back to the (proper tool) shop and offered
it to them to remove. The first guy looked at me (and probably thought
'noob' or somesuch) and then proceeded to twist and turn and couldn't
undo it. It then got passed through all the guys till it ended up with
the shop gorilla and he gave up after nearly bursting a blood vessel.

Same thing happened to me the other day after some heavy masonry
drilling with a corded drill.

The funny thing for me was this stepped drill has a hex shank so I
didn't do it up /that/ tight. However, that might of been part of the
problem if it 'cammed up' (not something a round shanked drill could
do).


Eventually they got the chuck open with a pair of pipe wrenches and I
asked them to fit a proper chuck. That has been on there for more than
10 years now and never not worked.


Yes, the pipe wrenches shifted it easily, and it doesn't feel like it
will happen again.

As could have been the case with mine but I didn't want to risk it
(the undoing of a brand new chuck with pipe grips nor it locking up
again).

I can't remember having any issues with even the cheapest keyed chuck,
apart from mislaying the key of course. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

Latest version...


==Overview==
===Keyed chuck===
The traditional drill chuck used for most of the 20th century.
* Slower & less convenient to use than keyless.
* Level of grip with these is consistently good, but there are
situations in which they can come loose, mainly with hammer action and
large [[Drill bit|bits]].
* Loss of the key wastes time if not attached to the [[flex|mains
lead]] (the key fairy is mischevious).


===Keyless Chuck===
Quick & easy to use, these are a real convenience advantage over keyed
chucks.

However there are several subtypes of keyless chuck, with performance
among such chucks inconsistent.

Some keyless chucks give poor grip compared to keyed, often coming
loose, especially with hammer action. Some can occasionally
overtighten in use, making bit removal very difficult. Some keyless
chucks are prone to come loose when operating anticlockwise. Some are
very good, particularly locking keyless chucks, which can perform even
better than keyed chucks.

There are also 2 styles of sleeve arrangement:
* 2 part sleeve: requires 2 hands to operate
* single sleeve: requires one hand to operate. To get maximum
tightening, set the drill to its lowest gear.


===SDS===
SDS offers massive performance advantages over the older types of
chuck in hammer mode. There are 2 SDS chucks in use:
* SDS, SDS+: 2 slightly different names for the exact same thing. Most
SDS chucks are this size
* SDS max: larger heavier duty version of SDS, used mainly on handheld
breakers


===Hex===
Great for instant bit changes, but otherwise the worst performing
chuck type
* take a wide array of screwdriving, drilling & nutdriving bits, plus
others
* only takes hex based bits
* small & light
* side to side waggle
* hex shank [[drill bit]]s are prone to breaking and spinning
* drill bits fall out of non-locking hex chucks in use

Types:
* Locking - pull back sleeve to release bit
* magnetic - bit just pulls out, but drill bits tend to get left in
the workpiece. Good for screws, not good with drill bits.
* sprung - bits pull out easily, again not good for drill bits



==Keyed chucks==
===Keys===
There are different key sizes. If you get a multi-headed replacement
key, it saves time to put some [[paint]] on the bit that fits.

The key can be attached to the [[flex|mains lead]] with a cable tie to
avoid wasted time searching for it.


===Removal===
# Open the chuck jaws wide.
# Unscrew the [[screw]] down the centre between the jaws. These often
have a reverse thread and can be very tight. A manual [[impact
driver]] can be useful.
# Insert chuck key, or attach [[Clamps|locking pliers]] to the top of
a keyless chuck
# Tap the key with a [[hammer]] to unscrew the chuck from the drill


===Repair===
Whether the chuck is sticking, loosening unwantedly or the jaws are
out of position, the repair procedure is much the same. Remove the
chuck from the drill, remove its outer cover, and clean the parts up.

Application of [[oil]] where not appropriate can result in chucks
coming undone when they shouldn't.

In some cases its possible to reassemble a broken key ring and have
the chuck then work fine long term. I did this once, and have had no
problem with it. The broken parts are kept in place by the outer
cover, and it works perfectly.


===Disassembly===
# Remove chuck from the drill,
# Clamp the outer body of the chuck near the drill-ward end (don't
[[clamp]] near the key tightening ring), ideally in a vice in 2
indented bits of [[wood]].
# Tap the stem towards where the drill bit tip would be, to push the
chuck assembly out from the outer cover

The mechanism is simple, and self assembly is fairly self evident.


==Keyless Chuck==
====Jammed keyless chuck====
If the chuck jams with a bit in it, apply a strap clamp to the sleeve,
and tap it round with a mallet. Its often possible to stop the drill's
shaft rotating by sticking something into the drill motor's cooling
fan, the drill of course should be unplugged.


==Hex Chuck==
These are trivial to replace and not worth repairing. There is jsut
one issue sometimes found: some chucks are designed for use with 2"
bits only, and the more common 1" bits sit too deep in the chuck to
use. The solution is to reduce the depth of the hex hole. ways to do
this include:
# place 2 small screws inside, the first one head first, the 2nd point
first. Tighten the 2nd screw down firm with a screwdriver. The
[[screw]]s need to be the right width for this to work.
# place a sheared off part of a hex bit in with folded paper down one
side. Force it down. You must get the size right first time, its not
possible to remove it if its wrong.


==SDS Chuck==
These need greasing very occasionally.


==Replacement==
Replacing a chuck is a fairly easy job, and doesn't cost much.
* For keyed & keyless chucks, ensure the replacement is the right size
of thread, and takes a suitable maximum size of tools.
* Some chucks are unsuitable for hammer use, and non-SDS hammerable
chucks are unsuitable for SDS use in hammer mode (SDS applies much
greater forces).
* Single sleeve keyless chucks rely on the drill motor not turning
while being undone. Fitting one to an old drill that turns easily can
make it very hard to undo. In such cases pick a 2 sleeve chuck or a
keyless.
* Screw-on chucks with no central fixing screw will tighten themselves
to the drill shaft.
* When a central fixing screw is used, ie in most cases, attach
locking pliers to the chuck or insert the key, and tap it to tighten.
Then open the jaws and fit the central screw firmly.
* Drills that don't use a screw-on chuck also exist.

Chucks are available from the usual builders' merchants, or can be had
off dead drills.


==See also==
* [[Drill bit]]
* [[Hex bit]]


[[Category:Tools]]
[[Category:Repair]]

"NT" wrote in message
...
Latest version...


==Overview==
===Keyed chuck===
The traditional drill chuck used for most of the 20th century.
* Slower & less convenient to use than keyless.
* Level of grip with these is consistently good, but there are
situations in which they can come loose, mainly with hammer action and
large [[Drill bit|bits]].
* Loss of the key wastes time if not attached to the [[flex|mains
lead]] (the key fairy is mischevious).


===Keyless Chuck===
Quick & easy to use, these are a real convenience advantage over keyed
chucks.

However there are several subtypes of keyless chuck, with performance
among such chucks inconsistent.

Some keyless chucks give poor grip compared to keyed, often coming
loose, especially with hammer action. Some can occasionally
overtighten in use, making bit removal very difficult. Some keyless
chucks are prone to come loose when operating anticlockwise. Some are
very good, particularly locking keyless chucks, which can perform even
better than keyed chucks.

There are also 2 styles of sleeve arrangement:
* 2 part sleeve: requires 2 hands to operate
* single sleeve: requires one hand to operate. To get maximum
tightening, set the drill to its lowest gear.


===SDS===
SDS offers massive performance advantages over the older types of
chuck in hammer mode. There are 2 SDS chucks in use:
* SDS, SDS+: 2 slightly different names for the exact same thing. Most
SDS chucks are this size
* SDS max: larger heavier duty version of SDS, used mainly on handheld
breakers


===Hex===
Great for instant bit changes, but otherwise the worst performing
chuck type
* take a wide array of screwdriving, drilling & nutdriving bits, plus
others
* only takes hex based bits
* small & light
* side to side waggle
* hex shank [[drill bit]]s are prone to breaking and spinning
* drill bits fall out of non-locking hex chucks in use

Types:
* Locking - pull back sleeve to release bit
* magnetic - bit just pulls out, but drill bits tend to get left in
the workpiece. Good for screws, not good with drill bits.
* sprung - bits pull out easily, again not good for drill bits



==Keyed chucks==
===Keys===
There are different key sizes. If you get a multi-headed replacement
key, it saves time to put some [[paint]] on the bit that fits.

The key can be attached to the [[flex|mains lead]] with a cable tie to
avoid wasted time searching for it.


===Removal===
# Open the chuck jaws wide.
# Unscrew the [[screw]] down the centre between the jaws. These often
have a reverse thread and can be very tight. A manual [[impact
driver]] can be useful.
# Insert chuck key, or attach [[Clamps|locking pliers]] to the top of
a keyless chuck
# Tap the key with a [[hammer]] to unscrew the chuck from the drill


===Repair===
Whether the chuck is sticking, loosening unwantedly or the jaws are
out of position, the repair procedure is much the same. Remove the
chuck from the drill, remove its outer cover, and clean the parts up.

Application of [[oil]] where not appropriate can result in chucks
coming undone when they shouldn't.

In some cases its possible to reassemble a broken key ring and have
the chuck then work fine long term. I did this once, and have had no
problem with it. The broken parts are kept in place by the outer
cover, and it works perfectly.


===Disassembly===
# Remove chuck from the drill,
# Clamp the outer body of the chuck near the drill-ward end (don't
[[clamp]] near the key tightening ring), ideally in a vice in 2
indented bits of [[wood]].
# Tap the stem towards where the drill bit tip would be, to push the
chuck assembly out from the outer cover

The mechanism is simple, and self assembly is fairly self evident.


==Keyless Chuck==
====Jammed keyless chuck====
If the chuck jams with a bit in it, apply a strap clamp to the sleeve,
and tap it round with a mallet. Its often possible to stop the drill's
shaft rotating by sticking something into the drill motor's cooling
fan, the drill of course should be unplugged.


==Hex Chuck==
These are trivial to replace and not worth repairing. There is jsut
one issue sometimes found: some chucks are designed for use with 2"
bits only, and the more common 1" bits sit too deep in the chuck to
use. The solution is to reduce the depth of the hex hole. ways to do
this include:
# place 2 small screws inside, the first one head first, the 2nd point
first. Tighten the 2nd screw down firm with a screwdriver. The
[[screw]]s need to be the right width for this to work.
# place a sheared off part of a hex bit in with folded paper down one
side. Force it down. You must get the size right first time, its not
possible to remove it if its wrong.


==SDS Chuck==
These need greasing very occasionally.


==Replacement==
Replacing a chuck is a fairly easy job, and doesn't cost much.
* For keyed & keyless chucks, ensure the replacement is the right size
of thread, and takes a suitable maximum size of tools.
* Some chucks are unsuitable for hammer use, and non-SDS hammerable
chucks are unsuitable for SDS use in hammer mode (SDS applies much
greater forces).
* Single sleeve keyless chucks rely on the drill motor not turning
while being undone. Fitting one to an old drill that turns easily can
make it very hard to undo. In such cases pick a 2 sleeve chuck or a
keyless.
* Screw-on chucks with no central fixing screw will tighten themselves
to the drill shaft.
* When a central fixing screw is used, ie in most cases, attach
locking pliers to the chuck or insert the key, and tap it to tighten.
Then open the jaws and fit the central screw firmly.
* Drills that don't use a screw-on chuck also exist.

Chucks are available from the usual builders' merchants, or can be had
off dead drills.


Chuck removal needs to say tap the chuck key with a hammer *in the direction
of forward rotation* (no need to talk about 'clockwise/anticlockwise' or
'looking from the front or back': that will just confuse people.)

Well done.
S